John/Horace

New batteries often don’t come with a full charge. Can be helpful to put it on a charger until it shows a full charge. Usually a square battery symbol comes up on dash when voltage gets low. There is a whole sequence of preserving car functionality as long as possible with battery dieing. Cooling fans being one of the top priorities. Car will disable sound system and power seats and various other non critical items to help limp vehicle back home. Stuff like ecm don’t run at 12 volts anyway, so lower voltage doesn’t get to them. Eventually car will be shut down from low voltage. Either battery not able to support car operation, or alternator not able to charge battery enough to keep a functional level. Goal being car not stuck on road, you should get strong hints to pull over. At least that’s how wife’s alternator failure played out with me trying to limp car home. Unsuccessfully, she used her caa for a small covered tow.

Known weak spot is the wire harness feeding the hatch back. Rear high mount brake light, manual push lock/unlock button on outside of hatch, wipers etc all going through it. Soldering and heat shrinking several broken wires is the fix. Solenoid on locking latch could also be getting flaky, need replacing. Not that common an issue. Trouble shooting using a multi meter should verify what it is. Or a fancy bi-directional dealer or android style scanner.

Unhooking horn wires takes about 5 mins.

People have made up a temporary TIPM bypass harness to trouble shoot this type of problem. Because of high cost of the part and tricky trouble shooting. If car has original CPS sensor, crank position sensor; your should pursue this for no start issues. Heat and vibration eventually make them flaky. A fairly cheap plug and play part ($30 -ish) oem original equip manuf being preferred option. Does not always set a code when failing.

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Welcome to the site. My 2014 has not been updated since I got it in 2014. Not great but works ok with android for Bluetooth stuff, worse with Apple. Works better with cable than Bluetooth. Can stream music through it and answer calls. Nav is not an add on app, you need a different unit with bigger processor etc. Buy a phone with bigger screen and use that instead, uconnect not that great really. Upgrades not plug and play. There are newer China android based systems that people have installed. Keeping heating steering wheel, seats and hvac controls that are in dash display are the big concern. Microphone is in mirror, try lubricating pivot joint of mirror with clear silicone spray, might free up a bit. Go over all your fluids for the awd, front ptu unit, rear differential, make sure transmission fluid also critical item has been changed. Fixing leaks before running something low is the preferred maint method.

And the security gateway module that 5rebel9 talked about is still in play; so no guaranteed functionality with an android unit on at least 2017+. 2016 might be old enough to get by, not sure. Dealer firmware updates could have been adding obstacles for diy the last few years. Time will tell.

From above post…… a diagnostic scan tool is required. More specifically a bi-directional scanner with current updated software usually from a two three hundred dollar annual subscription. Also the ability to understand how to operate the scanner. Good independent shops are capable of this. These units can pulse door locks, fuel pumps, windows etc. I just picked autel, I have an older non two way unit that still works. Lots of kinda sketchy China aftermarket guys selling these android units under different names. US right to repair laws doesn’t mean easy repairs sometimes. North of border laws even weaker for right to repair IMO. https://obdprice.ca/products/autel-maxipro-mp808bt-pro-diagnostic-scanner-full-kit?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAqA-hW7N9DWg6Fq7UJ5eNciKO1Phd&gclid=Cj0KCQjwurS3BhCGARIsADdUH52b6J0lYO2waWnHyfFdc05O9q7ofM6rxNgXuKYGdwC9uCcGmHMgoXwaAhUbEALw_wcB

Get someone who knows how to solder. Or practise a bit to see if you get the hang of it. Watch utube soldering links. Need to pretin wires first, then solder them together. Electronic flux is useful even if flux core solder used. Need multi strand copper wire of same or bigger gauge. I think I broke one more during soldering process, ended up with 5 bad wires. Test everything while harness is still apart. The wires break because not enough slack in harness, not too little. I added a maybe 6 inch splice to each broken one, I needed the extra space to separate and solder properly. Tucked some wire further into gate and folded some of the new slack into wire bundle. Grommet was sliced longitudinally. Used small zip ties to hold wire bundle together. Then used them around grommet to hold around fixed wires, urethane caulk used on cut seam held together with wraps. It’s like extra wire in house wiring junction boxes. Can fold extra into loops and make it go away. Electronic Tec’s would do this in their sleep, of course.

I’m a little lost. So a shop changed the alternator and gave it back with all the dash lights on? Was it a new or remanufactured alternator, how old is the current battery, they often only last 3 ish years. These cars need a strong battery, weak one will make car elec do weird things. How many miles on car and which engine?

https://www.alldata.com/diy-us/en/diy-repair-information?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD-5Oc01BWZCofTHp6RgHDXHrBXnK&gclid=Cj0KCQjwi5q3BhCiARIsAJCfuZltnkq2LAORq6gFqBz1Nym2haUnNO986u2QR-zAwvwkGP3MGVjQHKIaAriyEALw_wcB

These kind of parts often rust together over time. Need a large cold chisel and a heavy hammer. Open a small gap on one side, then try same on the opposite side. Basically walk it out a 1/16” at a time. 5Rebel9 and other former mechanics will have done this regularly with seized parts on rust belt cars. Sometimes you have to break things apart and replace extra items. No choice. Torque specs are available with a one month subscription to a mechanic site like Mitchel1 etc. Or pay a local mechanics shop to do the final inch pound torquing.

With the battery management systems it’s a little trickier to trouble shoot alternators now. Ours started to drop amperage/voltage when it got up to full temperature. A meter would show it dropping from 14.5 to 12-13 volts, after running 10-15 mins. Torque coupler can even be part of alternator problems. Curious did you go new or reman unit, new are crazy expensive but normally better. A plastic oil leak deflector guard came with a dealer reman unit and a 2 year warranty. 2014 never had this from the factory, fits on top of alt with different studs that were included.

Is cooling fan going to high speed when a/c is on? Is it original radiator and thermostat still? Cooling system has had a pressure test.?

Sounds very frustrating. Maybe a wire harness issue. Need a ecm pin out diagram and find what 5 volt signal could be dropping to 3 by the time it gets to sensor…or vice versa.

Have you tried the rotary knob on the left side of dash used to adjust dash light levels and turn off dome lights ?

The hanger bearing mount bolts are listed at 40 ft/pds. I can’t find the front bolts spec on line anywhere, odd. This sites search function not great; it was mentioned here a few years ago. Too bad no one has a Mitchel login subscription. How about stopping by a dealer and see if they will be helpful. Don’t want to wreck the new bolts. I know blue semi permanent thread locker should be used. And I would check them after a week or so to confirm their not backing off. Kit came with no specs I guess.

Cleaning up the connections on the remote jump start terminals under the hood are also a good idea. Main fuse box fed from there. Driver strut tower also has more dirty grounds to look at. Light film dielectric grease useful. Small amounts of voltage (lots of engine control stuff 5 volts only) and low current makes for the possibility of flaky power on 12 volt systems. Vibration and corrosion and push on connectors makes it even more likely.

Don’t forget spark. Could pull a coil and hook to a spark plug …look for blue spark. Or confirm coils are getting 12 volts. Never crank for more than 30-40 secs without waiting 5 mins for cool down of starter.

Codes showing up ? Will be some nonsense stuff turning up from the dead engine. Maybe clear after first scan and see what reappears afterwards. Cold compression test numbers? (Table spoon of oil per cylinder if motor sitting a long time.) I wonder about timing, hard to check not running, would have to look sprocket markings.

Purpose of the boot is to keep dirt and road crap from going into the inner tie rod joint. Needs to move freely and pivot. Doesn’t need to look nice, it’s there for sealing purposes. I have even seen them held with gear clamps and tywraps at times. Could get a good used one from an auto wrecking yard. Large pipe wrenchs can be used on lock nut; need to wire brush the threads to remove most of rust and use penetrating oil first so nut has room to back off from tie rod end shoulder. A crow foot wrench can also be used on one end after things are broken loose, but they don’t grab as well as a pipe wrench to free things up. If nut gets too ratty, swap it out during the joint replacement. Lock tight not normally used on this job; lots of torque and rust locks things together any way. Need to use a tape measure to try and keep length of assembled inner and outer tie rods as close as possible to what they are now. An alignment most likely needed afterwards.

Holy dead thread…Batman.

So pulling starter doesn’t help create room like on some vehicles. I have a new sensor on hand , high milage so kinda over due right now. Not looking forward to it …don’t have access to a hoist. Just did daughters 2.7 Rondo CPS. Starter pulled and mechanics mirror, extensions etc. Not exactly easy on that vehicle either.

Not likely to answer a three year old thread. Which engine, milage on car, any recent work done on vehicle. Scanning for codes is always a good starting point, auto parts store often do it for free. The 2.4 engine has a common issue at higher milage with the electronic throttle control. Internal plastic gears start to stick…lightning bolt symbol comes up. Car often goes to limp mode, restarting clears temporarily. Codes are stored.