John/Horace

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Welcome to the site. My 2014 has not been updated since I got it in 2014. Not great but works ok with android for Bluetooth stuff, worse with Apple. Works better with cable than Bluetooth. Can stream music through it and answer calls. Nav is not an add on app, you need a different unit with bigger processor etc. Buy a phone with bigger screen and use that instead, uconnect not that great really. Upgrades not plug and play. There are newer China android based systems that people have installed. Keeping heating steering wheel, seats and hvac controls that are in dash display are the big concern. Microphone is in mirror, try lubricating pivot joint of mirror with clear silicone spray, might free up a bit. Go over all your fluids for the awd, front ptu unit, rear differential, make sure transmission fluid also critical item has been changed. Fixing leaks before running something low is the preferred maint method.

And the security gateway module that 5rebel9 talked about is still in play; so no guaranteed functionality with an android unit on at least 2017+. 2016 might be old enough to get by, not sure. Dealer firmware updates could have been adding obstacles for diy the last few years. Time will tell.

From above post…… a diagnostic scan tool is required. More specifically a bi-directional scanner with current updated software usually from a two three hundred dollar annual subscription. Also the ability to understand how to operate the scanner. Good independent shops are capable of this. These units can pulse door locks, fuel pumps, windows etc. I just picked autel, I have an older non two way unit that still works. Lots of kinda sketchy China aftermarket guys selling these android units under different names. US right to repair laws doesn’t mean easy repairs sometimes. North of border laws even weaker for right to repair IMO. https://obdprice.ca/products/autel-maxipro-mp808bt-pro-diagnostic-scanner-full-kit?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAqA-hW7N9DWg6Fq7UJ5eNciKO1Phd&gclid=Cj0KCQjwurS3BhCGARIsADdUH52b6J0lYO2waWnHyfFdc05O9q7ofM6rxNgXuKYGdwC9uCcGmHMgoXwaAhUbEALw_wcB

Get someone who knows how to solder. Or practise a bit to see if you get the hang of it. Watch utube soldering links. Need to pretin wires first, then solder them together. Electronic flux is useful even if flux core solder used. Need multi strand copper wire of same or bigger gauge. I think I broke one more during soldering process, ended up with 5 bad wires. Test everything while harness is still apart. The wires break because not enough slack in harness, not too little. I added a maybe 6 inch splice to each broken one, I needed the extra space to separate and solder properly. Tucked some wire further into gate and folded some of the new slack into wire bundle. Grommet was sliced longitudinally. Used small zip ties to hold wire bundle together. Then used them around grommet to hold around fixed wires, urethane caulk used on cut seam held together with wraps. It’s like extra wire in house wiring junction boxes. Can fold extra into loops and make it go away. Electronic Tec’s would do this in their sleep, of course.

I’m a little lost. So a shop changed the alternator and gave it back with all the dash lights on? Was it a new or remanufactured alternator, how old is the current battery, they often only last 3 ish years. These cars need a strong battery, weak one will make car elec do weird things. How many miles on car and which engine?

https://www.alldata.com/diy-us/en/diy-repair-information?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD-5Oc01BWZCofTHp6RgHDXHrBXnK&gclid=Cj0KCQjwi5q3BhCiARIsAJCfuZltnkq2LAORq6gFqBz1Nym2haUnNO986u2QR-zAwvwkGP3MGVjQHKIaAriyEALw_wcB

These kind of parts often rust together over time. Need a large cold chisel and a heavy hammer. Open a small gap on one side, then try same on the opposite side. Basically walk it out a 1/16” at a time. 5Rebel9 and other former mechanics will have done this regularly with seized parts on rust belt cars. Sometimes you have to break things apart and replace extra items. No choice. Torque specs are available with a one month subscription to a mechanic site like Mitchel1 etc. Or pay a local mechanics shop to do the final inch pound torquing.

With the battery management systems it’s a little trickier to trouble shoot alternators now. Ours started to drop amperage/voltage when it got up to full temperature. A meter would show it dropping from 14.5 to 12-13 volts, after running 10-15 mins. Torque coupler can even be part of alternator problems. Curious did you go new or reman unit, new are crazy expensive but normally better. A plastic oil leak deflector guard came with a dealer reman unit and a 2 year warranty. 2014 never had this from the factory, fits on top of alt with different studs that were included.

Is cooling fan going to high speed when a/c is on? Is it original radiator and thermostat still? Cooling system has had a pressure test.?

Sounds very frustrating. Maybe a wire harness issue. Need a ecm pin out diagram and find what 5 volt signal could be dropping to 3 by the time it gets to sensor…or vice versa.

Have you tried the rotary knob on the left side of dash used to adjust dash light levels and turn off dome lights ?

The hanger bearing mount bolts are listed at 40 ft/pds. I can’t find the front bolts spec on line anywhere, odd. This sites search function not great; it was mentioned here a few years ago. Too bad no one has a Mitchel login subscription. How about stopping by a dealer and see if they will be helpful. Don’t want to wreck the new bolts. I know blue semi permanent thread locker should be used. And I would check them after a week or so to confirm their not backing off. Kit came with no specs I guess.

Cleaning up the connections on the remote jump start terminals under the hood are also a good idea. Main fuse box fed from there. Driver strut tower also has more dirty grounds to look at. Light film dielectric grease useful. Small amounts of voltage (lots of engine control stuff 5 volts only) and low current makes for the possibility of flaky power on 12 volt systems. Vibration and corrosion and push on connectors makes it even more likely.

Don’t forget spark. Could pull a coil and hook to a spark plug …look for blue spark. Or confirm coils are getting 12 volts. Never crank for more than 30-40 secs without waiting 5 mins for cool down of starter.

Codes showing up ? Will be some nonsense stuff turning up from the dead engine. Maybe clear after first scan and see what reappears afterwards. Cold compression test numbers? (Table spoon of oil per cylinder if motor sitting a long time.) I wonder about timing, hard to check not running, would have to look sprocket markings.

Purpose of the boot is to keep dirt and road crap from going into the inner tie rod joint. Needs to move freely and pivot. Doesn’t need to look nice, it’s there for sealing purposes. I have even seen them held with gear clamps and tywraps at times. Could get a good used one from an auto wrecking yard. Large pipe wrenchs can be used on lock nut; need to wire brush the threads to remove most of rust and use penetrating oil first so nut has room to back off from tie rod end shoulder. A crow foot wrench can also be used on one end after things are broken loose, but they don’t grab as well as a pipe wrench to free things up. If nut gets too ratty, swap it out during the joint replacement. Lock tight not normally used on this job; lots of torque and rust locks things together any way. Need to use a tape measure to try and keep length of assembled inner and outer tie rods as close as possible to what they are now. An alignment most likely needed afterwards.

Holy dead thread…Batman.

So pulling starter doesn’t help create room like on some vehicles. I have a new sensor on hand , high milage so kinda over due right now. Not looking forward to it …don’t have access to a hoist. Just did daughters 2.7 Rondo CPS. Starter pulled and mechanics mirror, extensions etc. Not exactly easy on that vehicle either.

Not likely to answer a three year old thread. Which engine, milage on car, any recent work done on vehicle. Scanning for codes is always a good starting point, auto parts store often do it for free. The 2.4 engine has a common issue at higher milage with the electronic throttle control. Internal plastic gears start to stick…lightning bolt symbol comes up. Car often goes to limp mode, restarting clears temporarily. Codes are stored.

It’s not just a simple reflashing to accept a sensor input. The ecm would likely need a bunch of programming put back in to control the runners. After intake runners were deleted they likely came up with new programming to run the engine. I have driven a 2.4 journey more than a few times; it’s waaay different than the 3.6 in the power department. But in the last year of production it was the only engine available.

This is a decent site, even lists the ED3 type engine which the OP said his 2019 was. Intake manifold flow runner part only fits 2009-10 Journey 2.4 like 5rebel9 said. Not other years. https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-actuator-flow-control-valve~4884549ad.html?vin=&make=Dodge&model=Journey&year=2009&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=()

It’s always California emissions spec north of border, all brands Toyota etc., federal gov mandate. Maybe helping saving the planet…definitely not your wallet. Harder to trouble shoot even with codes. Extra 2.4 breather is ok but only one has a real check valve on it, is flow going to stay in the right direction. Often a nicer sound than stock set up, maybe 0.99 ish horse power. It’s long term effect on engine reliability that makes me wonder. But then it’s hard to kill this design 2.4 engine anyway. I’m not sure MoparCanada site is correct. I think your 2009-10 only idea is probably accurate for both sides of border. Will check the 2012 Canada spec unit next time I see it, post up findings on the site.

The slightly under powered but reliable 2.4, nice clear pics. Same 2.4 I have worked on a bit. Another possible issue with the K&N air filter is over oiling with the spray on oil. Nice to reduce land fill but the oil can carry down stream on to sensors …I have heard. Have used the drop in square units on a few Jeeps. . Mopar Canada which you would think should be a good info source shows the part in question fitting up to 2017 model year. It also says it’s a discontinued part, there is second listed part ending in AD and Motorcitychysler online site says fits 2009-10 not other years. Home 2017 Dodge Journey Air Inlet Controls 04884549AD Actuator - Mopar (04884549AD) Genuine OEM Mopar Parts & Accessories - 4884549ad This part fits your 2017 Dodge JourneyChange vehicle Discontinued Product No Longer Available For Purchase Manufacturer WarrantyMinimum of 24 Months Guaranteed FitmentAlways the correct parts Shop with ConfidenceYour information is safe In-House ExpertsWe know our products

I used daughter in laws 2012 as the look up reference and it listed the shown intake flow runner and I assumed it was same up to 2019. Looking it up now, you are correct it’s not listed at all for 2019. Good catch. The 2012 I occasionally work on is 4 hrs away. Makes me wonder if it is even on that car. Will have to take a look. RockA doesn’t make cars but they are the most accurate parts site I’ve ever come across. I doubt they are wrong, dealer would know for sure. Picture from engine like you asked would have been nice.