John/Horace

The part shown is for Dart, Journey should have something similar. Search with your vin number.

I’ve had two cars with it. Can be annoying. They work with radio frequency, 433 Mhrz to communicate with a receiver under the dash. It appears one of the four channels is not functioning any more. Tire pressure module receiving module probably. Free advice worth everything you pay for it. https://www.moparwholesaleparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-tire-pressure-monitoring-system-receiver-56046811ag

Welcome to the forum. How many miles? I’m more familiar with Hyundai, and they do go to limp mode on a high temperature code, trying to protect tranny. The temp sensor it built into a ribbon cable harness that is easy bumped when changing filter. Age makes plastic brittle and it’s not really possible to see break in the flex harness. People try reseating the connectors on the harness as a long shot. Hopefully someone with more Dodge knowledge can step up.

Can’t really test crank sensor with a regular meter. Normally you get a cps code but sometimes it can drop signal output and vehicle will stall without any stored code at all. Similarly incorrect codes like a cyclinder misfire can sometimes be created. Low probability occurrence.

Wow that seems weird. Holes in pic don’t look like machined openings, very odd. Did the removed engine have the same holes in that location. When I started to get a drip last year on my 3.6 I changed out my pump. Leak was from a degraded area of gasket, pump was fine and could have been reused. Too much work to take a chance so new pump was installed anyway with new oem gasket. All water pumps I have seen have a weep hole, it’s an early warning that bearing seal is shot, drips a bit as a warning. Bearing craps out quite soon after leak starts and liquid washes out bearing grease. How was glycol in the wrecker engine, nice and clean or was there straight water in it? Torque wrench used on water pump bolts?

Oem plug very pricy, NGK irredium is fine I’ve put 20k on mine with no issue. Mopar I think is Champion brand, not my favourite. I have heard of crank sensor causing a cyclinder misfire cars before, not very common. They are a wear item that can eventually leave you stranded. Fairly easy to change and not a pricy part. I hate just throwing parts at a car, but when the part is cheaper than any mechanic diagnostic I sometimes give in. Also easier than musical coils. New coil pack could be a dud. It’s a hazzle but you could move it to another cyclinder and see if code switches to other cyclinder. With the intake removed you could also remove plug and check compression on cyclinder #2 to rule out that remote possibility. Want to minimize removing that awkward plastic intake manifold. Pull fuel pump relay, cold engine will be lower psi but will indicate drastic deficiency.

Welcome to the forum. How many miles on vehicle? I would consider crank sensor before going after injector. They aren’t expensive, are a wear part and I am told can cause cyclinder misfire. Did you replace the oring seals in the lower intake manifold when you changed plugs, another possible cause for cyclinder misfire. What brand of plug was installed. I used NGK laser cut iredium on my 3.6 last year, and a OEM lower intake seal set. Injectors in my experience seldom wear out; quick and dirty test is screw driver on top of injector and you should hear clicking as it fires. Node light on harness shows signal to fire coming from ecm to harness plug.

It’s this. I don’t work for Rockauto, just good pics. Order oem part, price close, less risk. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2015,journey,2.4l+l4,3309783,ignition,crankshaft+position+sensor,7196

The rust IMO is not that bad and I would try sand and primer and paint or film of grease before trying to change it out.

If the old bolts look ok you can reuse if cash is tight, if head of bolt is rounded off I would replace that fastner. A torque wrench is important for tiny 40-60 inch pound fastners, very easy to break off heads. Borrow one if possible, mechanics are use to correct torque (tightness) and often don’t use one. RTV needs to cure 24 hrs before going back in service, for best results. If oil is not leaking yet, you could sand off the outer rust and if still no leak, apply a thin film of grease (very thin film) over the rusted part of oil pan. It doesn’t get hot enough to burn off and it will slow the rust temporarily until you can better deal with it. Environmental impact IMO minimal; smelting new steel and making new rtv has bigger foot print.

Given up the ghost how? What is the official diagnosis of the problem, top end,cyclinder head or cam issue, bottom end crank knocking. Maybe the mechanic you were going to have work on it has some connections for used engines.

There is an automatic purge valve for tank, could be starting to have an issue. Not expensive part. Could still be a stored code for that. Scanners are so cheap now they are worth having, one or two uses covers paying for code retrieval. I think the Elm327 Bluetooth scanner that uses phone app might be cheapest at around $18. Works best with android not Apple.

As Taylor Semi Swift has pointed out before. Haters are going to hate...... https://jalopnik.com/one-of-chryslers-worst-ever-car-platforms-dies-with-the-1844255863

My catalytic heat shield came loose towards front of car. Several sheet metal screws and washers and noise was fixed.

Oring comes with new filter and is changed every oil change. Doesn’t get old enough to harden up or wear out IMO. Torque spec is stamped in filter housing lid at 25 newton meters, eliminates guess work. I have changed oil on various Hyundai with this style plastic filter housing, one has over 200k and has never leaked. If you checked their forums you will not find it discussed. Plastic isn’t the problem imo. Common filter set up now. You don’t redesign a part that is working fine. German engineering filter design, bitog says. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4352133/all/2014_Dodge_Durango_3.6L_oil_co

Can easily grind down and chamfer the end of bolt. Cool the bolt in a water container between grinding, or use vice grips. The end of the bolt may get rusty and make it harder to retract through bracket in the future. It may not be a hardened bolt, important to not over torque.

Mechanics pointing fingers at each other for blame is never good. Man splaining as they call it, also not a pleasant experience. I fix my wife and daughters cars to help them avoid that. The oil filter housing is part of a large plastic/aluminum piece called the oil heat exchanger mounted on top of engine. The oil temperature and glycol temp sensors are also screwed into this plastic assembly. There have been a lot of problems with this assembly leaking oil. 2014 was the year with more of the problems (on my 2014 I had to replace the assembly). In some cases people are saying it’s cracked, in other cases the rubber O ring gaskets are blamed, in other cases the threaded in oil presssure switch is identified as the cause. I think it is a poorly designed part and over tightening oil filter isn’t the real cause, it’s the design. It’s a messy awkward job and fairly labor intensive. If the mechanics don’t find a crack it’s possible to just change out the O ring gasket set on the base of the heat exchanger and hope it’s ok. Approx 2 hours-ish of labor and gaskets. The whole assembly from dealer comes with new gaskets, and with new pressure switches oil/glycol installed. Pricy at $385 cdn before tax, but guarantees no second repair job with all variations of leak problem fixed.

3.6 is cop so no wires. Even if no light scan for codes. Any recent work completed? What plugs went in ?

Yeah another option, the part recyclers. On a low labour installation job like this a very good option. You didn’t need a part that is going to last another 100k if car won’t be on the road that long. https://www.car-part.com/

You will probably have a light on dash without driveshaft in place. But I think car will be driveable. Aftermarket shafts will be a little cheaper than Mopar, although not as durable.

I used android device to view clip. It’s your drive shaft, not a c/v drive axle. Pricy item to buy. May be able to remove shaft and drive in two wheel drive only for now. Mopar unit on roacka is $850 cdn dollars. Choose for Me to Minimize Cost DODGE > 2009 > JOURNEY > 3.5L V6 > Drivetrain > Drive Shaft Price Standard Replacement MOPAR 5157005AF {#05157005AE, 5157005AE} Info HATCHBACK; AWD 1 Day Delay CAD$850.32 More Information for DORMAN 946307 Add to Cart Continue Shopping

Interesting. There is even a Mopar clutch coil listed for our Journey compressor. More Information for MOPAR 5140461AA Add to Cart Continue Shopping 1 / 3 Point to Zoom Safari - Jun 22, 2020 at 7:15 PM.pdf

your pic doesn’t work. WAG drive shaft flex joint. Is this the pic? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2009,journey,3.5l+v6,1442283,drivetrain,drive+shaft+flex+joint,10701

Confusing. Probably M4 just bring one to a good auto parts store and they can match it. If one bolt is missing/snapped it will probably leak there even with a new gasket. With pan off the old bolt will need to be drilled out and tapped for a new bolt. Hope it doesn’t snap off flush, with pan off might be able to get vice grips on stub.

But clutchless is newer tec and the Journey hasn’t been updated at all in years. Still a 4 -6 speed tranny and hydraulic steering. Here is a photo of your compressor with a big clutch driven pulley from RoackA. And clutch pic.