John/Horace

They charged to say I don’t know? Was bottom part of universal removed at rack to isolate things, awkward spot so I doubt it. Dealer might be only option now; they may have already seen this problem before. I would unhook sway bar end links on both sides and drive for a few days. Doesn’t cost anything. Back suspension very involved with multi bushings, front is simple.

Look for the aftermarket alarm under the dash and pull the main plug. I think two systems are interfering with each other. Hood has a small switch on passenger side fender that is made when hood is closed. Make sure it is being fully depressed. Could even check continuity on switch with multi meter. Shim it if needed.

Could be dozens of different things. Scanning for obd codes even if no dash light always a good start. Any recent repair work done on vehicle? When car is running in park does it seem normal, no shaking or sputtering?

Good shops tend to be busier than crappier ones IMO. I would rather pay for a correct diagnosis than get a free wrong diagnosis. Around where I am you are expected to leave your car for the day for just about any car repair; which is why I do 95% of my own repairs. To do my cruise control flash, the work order showed around 0.2 hrs, car was there from 9 am until pickup at 2 pm. But warranty work I expect to be at the back of the line. Understandable.

I think in an hour a decent mechanic should be able to figure it out. If he says up front not good enough, I would bail. I try to avoid jerks, maybe just a bad day. If recommended through friends might be ok.

Interesting. Bad universal would get progressively worse imo. Bad rack might start to leak, or power steering pump start to get substantially louder. Could pay mechanic or dealer an hour to specifically diagnose problem. Make that clear, no top ten guesses but exact cause with firm repair quote. Can be difficult to get, lots of parts changers around. Weird odd ball stuff dealer should excel at, with more specific repair experience.

Mechanics stethoscope on either end of shaft may be able to isolate noise. Pic is a princess auto chepo I’ve had for years. Diagnosing hardest part of car repair IMO. Throwing parts at a vehicle gets expensive fast.

Or use a spark plug tester. It goes in line with installed plug and coil, flashes light when it gets high voltage signal. Harbour Freight/Princess Auto sells them, not expensive. Less risk of shocking the monkey ?

Wow that’s loud as hell and annoying. Sounds metallic, not rubbing plastic bits. My F150 steering shaft had no rattle but huge amounts of play In it. It was obvious the universals has too much play, at 200k miles. The shafts are designed in an accident to come apart and not skewer the driver. You have a few options to narrow things down. Paint mark universal and rack mounting shaft; then remove the shaft from the rack and see if there is play or clicking when the rack is moved full lock to lock, left to right. It’s possible sound is being transmitted into cabin from bad hydraulic rack unit. Test dash universal by removing shaft and flexing by hand checking for noises. Steering wheel can’t be moved more than approx 40 degrees without possibly affecting clockspring wire that triggers airbags. Unhook battery and be careful. Contact dealer and see what steering part they actually are stocking...the moving part is often the weakest link. Good dealers will mention when you are buying part they never ever sell and when it’s an item on back order because it’s sold so often.

Nice pics, sounds like you fixed it. Good for you, some people are afraid of rebuilding calipers and always buy reman or new. Hand held laser temp gauges are fairly decent for measuring; sometimes you need to take a few readings to get a reliable measurement. I rebuilt lots of calipers when I had Japanese cars with reman units that were stupidly over priced. One of the reasons I like domestic vehicles sometimes. Sylglide is good for assembly lube. Thanks for the follow up.

Could try rockauto or other on line parts guys. May not be a stock item. Your vin on Mopar factory parts site should locate part numbers. Here is Canadian site. https://www.mmparts.ca/

Closer pic.

Oem original from my journey and the new NTK side by side. Looks like they are making the factory part, right down to the progressive die stamping marks being identical. If dealer adds 15-20% and stocks stuff, they get my business. When they add two or three hundred % like they often do up here, I look for other options. But agreed there are risks to this approach. NTK makes Hyundai oem as well, I installed them for approx 10 yrs now with out issues.

The steering column from Rock is so pricy because it has the whole intermediate shaft with it. Here is just upper universal by itself, cheaper than I thought. https://parts-catalog.moparrepairconnection.ca/catalog-2/itemdetail/mopar-parts/55351444ad https://parts-catalog.moparrepairconnection.ca/catalog-2/itemdetail/mopar-parts/55351444ad

What codes are coming up, scan even if light not on. You said cam singular so it’s a 2.4 engine? Any recent work done to car? Is there a security system on car ?

Steering bolts probably installed with loctite. So I doubt it. If it is intermediate shaft need to be careful of clock spring wire for airbags. Seat belt wrapped through steering wheel so no turning more than 30 degrees during shaft change. Not that difficult a job normally.

If injector is firing there will be a click felt if long screw driver is used like stethoscope. Node light plugged in harness will show if it’s getting signal from ecm. O2 code could be bad plug or injector or coil, or intake gasket. If on previous engine the 02 sensors functioned ok, sensors probably ok. Engine sitting for a while, could be stuck lifter, I have used snake oil like STP and had it fix a sticking lifter. How is coolant leak, is it fixed?

The shaft with both universals is called the intermediate shaft I believe. I had to replace it on on my F150 at 200k miles. Needle bearing may have failed on upper universal, should not see significant play when steering is moved back and forth with car off. Pull back carpet padding at floor around shaft and look at amount of play in lower joint and compare to play in upper joint (asumming same style joint). Its not a good thing that Rockauto lists the steering column assembly for this vehicle. They usually stick to moving items with demand. Intermediate shaft should be sold separate as a dealer item only, probably $300 ish with taxes, hope I’m wrong. DODGE > 2016 > JOURNEY > 3.6L V6 > Steering > Steering Column Price MOPAR 5057549AD {#5057549AC} Info Tilt/Telescope Steering Column Without Steering Column Locking Slip Collar; HATCHBACK; AWD * Stocked in outlying warehouse--shipping delayed up to 1 business day CAD$996.20

Haven't had that happen. Front end noises tricky, lots of potential sources. If it sounds like column itself, there is a double universal joint right close to floor where steering shaft connects to hydraulic rack. Usually a high milage related wear item, so low probability. Most common front end rattles IMO our sway bar links or bushings. Sway bar transfers weight to opposite wheel as you go around a corner, so handling only. The end links can be unhooked and car driven to see if noise disappears, easiest way to confirm. Could even be c/v shaft, but usually you don’t feel that in steering, more of a knocking sound. Inspect outer boots for damage, grease leaks.

I’ve used NTK who make a lot of oem O2 sensors on my 3.6 dodge, never had an issue for 12 months now. About one quarter of the price. Maybe not as good but car won’t go another 180k kms anyway. I have had issues and won’t use Bosch sensors or spark plugs. NGK owns NTK.

Haven’t worked in a 3.5 since my brother got rid of his 300 two years ago. It had mostly electrical issues so I hardly touched the engine. No pics makes it guessing game. Leak on front of engine often water pump; bearing weep hole is hard to check out without mirror and timing covers removed. But weep hole is a pressurized leak normally. Milage kinda low for a pump change. Maybe micro crack in one of the plastic parts. Is this pic the big/small hose part you changed ?

Vacuum booster has check valve so it holds vacuum for a period of time...say a Wallymart shopping visit for 2 hrs so assist still there on restart. Over night especially in winter, vacuum lost and engine needs few seconds to recharge booster, so initial stiff pedal. If pedal pressure is varying while driving, could be a master cyclinder issue. Since about 1969 all master cyclinders are two stage design (probably US federal gov safety mandate). If primary seal fails, the pedal almost to the floor will still have a large amount of braking ability. Not full since back up stage is smaller bore, but enough to theoretically stop car. My first car a 1967 beetle had four drum brakes and a single stage master cyclinder; but a working hand brake got me home once. So it is important to pay close attention to how well your brakes operate. Minimum standard ahhh no.

Oops meant above 2%. 2%.

Sometimes new piston (which is available) is needed if it has any scoring visible on it. If fluid is over 5 yrs old or moisture percentage from tester is over 0.2 percent it’s a good time to replace it.

How were the slider pins? Need to be cleaned up and lubed with Sylglide or similar synthetic brake lube. Should float freely. New pads are often too tight and need some clearance added on the contact surfaces with a file or grinder. Although one side is working ok so..... At higher milage calipers can start to seize up. Either new seals from a rebuild kit or a reman caliper might be needed.