John/Horace

There are variable displacement compressors that still have a clutch. Older units. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/traditional-clutch-type-a-c-compressor-vs-variable.292066/#post-4800917

I think in the defrost setting it will cycle a/c to help lower humidity; but only to a certain lower temperature. To protect compressor I don’t believe it functions at a few degrees below zero or freezing point. The cycling also helps keep the compressor seals lubricated so they don’t dry out and leak.

U.S. rarely has day time running lights enabled, so not likely problem. I think I would get at the plugs that feed both bulbs, look for corrosion or wiring damage. Try removing each bulb and looking at contacts on bottom of bulb and inside the harness plug. You do have the automatic head lights on vehicle? The dash switch could have bad contacts, bit on a long shot. Try swapping out light relays under hood, sticking contacts are possible. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2016,journey,3.6l+v6,3353540,electrical-switch+&+relay,headlamp+switch,4472

WAG day time running light issue, is it enabled on the vehicle? Are there any after market add ons, like a trailer wiring harness?

Maybe this should be standard equipment.

Horn sounds when ground is made in steering wheel behind airbag. Could be loose connection there or possibly clock spring wire harness that carries horn power wire through steering column. Assembly not much, can’t repair, would have to replace it. Chrysler has had recalls in the past on the Caravan clock spring harness, usually horn stopped working and airbag light came on showing problem. Be careful clockstring fires the airbag during an accident. Fan coming on is tricky without wiring diagram. You unplug a/c sensor plugs under hood first to see if it changes anything. Good luck.

Welcome to the forum. Sounds like you have several different problems at once. If you scan ecm what codes show up? Security system is triggering horn I think. Usually it’s the remote that arms it, try only using key for door and ignition function and see if horn stops triggering. If it does Could be door/hood switchs or various modules causing issue. Stop using remotes until alarm system fixed. Cooling fans come on for high temp in engine glycol, but also for high pressure in a/c refrigerant system. What is dash gauge showing for engine temp, does it seem correct. Is a/c working ok ? Try leaving a/c off completely, if engine cooling fan still comes on pull any relays related to a/c and see if that stops cooling fan. If it does and you aren’t going to fix a/c there is a way to disable a/c under hood on high side line pressure sensor plug. Or fix a/c high pressure problem.

Wheel bearings don’t normally create vibration unless crazy worn out. Upper ball joints maybe. Try swapping tires front to back and drive hiway speed. https://www.moparmagazine.com/2016/08/their-ride-quality-depends-on-it/

Glad you found it. Front end noises can be very hard to nail down. It seemed way to early for rack issues. Found this decent front end trouble shooting guide...that you now don’t need, cool. https://www.moparmagazine.com/2016/08/their-ride-quality-depends-on-it/ You easy sell the Monroe quick struts.

Any progress on cyclinder 2 misfire problem. Was it cps related?

I’ve searched and found passive entry and remote start antenna, nothing for tire pressure coming up anywhere. Where is the pic. Remotes antenna is shown below.

If you do oil changes with a funnel or have them done by place that is not messy. There shouldn’t be any oil drips on alternator. Guard wouldn’t be necessary. I’m not sure if 2.4 alternator has this plastic guard as well after 2015. Maybe someone can check.

https://ca.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t33365_ds653963 I think GM was heavy key random stalling...safety issue. Corroded switch and possible fire is this Dodge isssue. Was the OP having this no start problem on and off and just threw a starter at it to try and fix it, maybe. https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjRoYmh5dnqAhWUYDUKHaMQC-UQFjAAegQICRAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.motortrend.com%2Fnews%2Frecall-alert-2009-dodge-journey-200809-ram-recalled-for-electrical-problems-4217%2F&usg=AOvVaw2GV-D2L6AfrLgu-Swjtb0J

The 2.4 engine seems to have a lot of early cps or crank position sensor failures. My daughter in law just had hers changed at low kms. It’s a wear item on some vehicles. Most often it causes stalling and a cps code, but it can also cause other codes like cyclinder misfire and cam codes. Cant really test with a multi meter or ohm meter like other parts. If you decide to do it, Get the factory Mopar part, price almost same. If the LPG was added on in Poland maybe you can talk to who installed and he might have ideas. Low voltage...bad solder joint etc. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2018,journey,3.6l+v6,3440326,ignition,crankshaft+position+sensor,7196

I’m second owner, but he gave me all service records; so pretty sure it was original part. Reman units would have a different tag, it still had the oem Denso label. It’s even the original battery, but it can’t go another winter. Mainly hiway miles may have helped. Does your alternator now have the plastic add on guard? The paper work shows for up to 2015, so all journey from factory had the upgrade after that I assume.

Doesn’t turn on with key I missed that. Need to scan for codes in ecm see what turns up. Need to have someone hold key in on position and see if the small power feed (12 volts) coming from key switch is making it to the starter motor. It’s the signal that sends power to the big cable feeding the starter solenoid. You could try marking starter relay and swapping it with another identical relay to see if coil is bad. Is there a security light on dash that is on right now? Seems like fuel pump and starter not coming on. When you turn on key to last click before starting, listen closely for fuel pump sound, it should cycle on and then off as it pressurizes system.

Can you try a second key in case they are a security chip key (low possibility). Park neutral safety switch on tranny can prevent starter engaging; try putting neutral and starting car. Is there an After market security system on vehicle ? Pic is standard relay wiring diagram.

Good question, I’m not really sure. Probably both if there are tiny openings in the plastic thermoseal factory weld. Light housing is several sections welded together. Vent is for condensation from air mainly, which I think is very minimal moisture. On my F150 I actually added two tiny 1/16 holes with a drill bit at the highest part of light on the non visible part facing body. After silicone wasn’t helping. A few times a year there is still small amounts of moisture, but they clear up so much better than before. On hyundai forums there was guys who heated up head light housing in an oven to take them apart, drill holes ands add extra lights. Then thermoweld in oven to get them back together again. They claimed no leaks afterwards. Exact temperature to soften old weld had to be reached etc. I have a small kit for thermowelding, have experimented on a few things. Not brave enough for a light housing in my daily driver yet. Princess Auto/Harbour Freight welding kit, not that pricy. Poly ethylene, poly propylene, poly styrene welding rods.

Clear silicone on all the seams can sometimes stop water leaking in.

Welcome to the forum. How many miles/kilometers on car. Have they tried changing out the camshaft sensor that matches the code. Give the wiring that leads to the possibly faulty cam sensor a real close look for damage. The code is low voltage exhaust side sensor. LPG must be cheaper to use than gasoline, is the car being used as a work or service vehicle? How do I fix code p0335? What repairs can fix the P0335 code? Crankshaft sensor replaced. Repair or replace wiring harness. PCM replacement. Signal plate replaced. Engine timing belt or chain fixed along with any mechanical damage from this.

Alternator packed it in on hottest day of year; around 115k miles so a little bit early maybe. Dealer sells a reman for same price as aftermarket guys, 2 yr warranty if they change it, one if DIY. Half price from new unit, so kinda reasonable. The interesting part was a plastic (oil guard their words) thingy and the two new studs and detailed instructions with torque specs for the alternator install. Alternator is right below valve cover oil fill spout. No funnel and a sloppy oil change, easily drips oil right into alternator cooling fins...and then into electronics. So this is a necessary and useful retrofit that adds only minutes to the replacement job. My torque coupler was fine, even main bearings were very smooth and had lots of life IMO. Electronics failed internally (not diodes I tested that) so there was virtually no voltage/amperage coming out of alternator. It was labeled with Denso, one of the better electrical component manufacturers which was surprising to see. New unit just says Mopar reman so possibly rebuilt Denso. Had to replace one noisy idler pulley, belt only 1.5 yrs old, and it’s back on road. Around a 1.5 hr job including glycol reinstall.

There are several acid type cleaners, Prestone is a local brand here, Follow instructions don’t leave in engine too long, very corrosive. Wrecker stuff is sometimes a roll of dice, I have had issues before with used parts. Great you got in running again.

Wow that’s tight. There are medical looking like tong pliers that one poster used on utube to change out sensor. (Harbour Freight spark plug pliers look similar ) With back part of air intake removed it will be easier. Good opportunity to change power transfer case oil while it’s apart. Vent line can be used to pump in the 0.8 litre of 75w90; drain plug is underneath. It’s due to be changed now. I have changed cps on several other suv vehicles. Normally they pop out with some wiggling. One 10mm hold down bolt. It’s possible the misfire is caused by something else and cps is ok. Was car ever in an accident, are you the original owner ?Plastic intake manifolds can be cracked in an accident and sometimes and have to be replaced. Expensive part unfortuneltly. LKQ wrecker item probably.

Journey never had a cvt either a 4 speed with 2.4, or a 6 speed Chrysler transmission with 3.6. The caliber and patriot had a cvt but not journey. I haven’t changed my cps yet, but I have a new one on hand. Mine is awd as well. If intake is off to do rear plugs I think access would be better. Changing oil on power transfer unit is awkward enough, removal would be nasty. I hope it can stay in place.

Passenger side from underneath, just above exhaust pipe. https://www.google.ca/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DltiTOHLlUAc&psig=AOvVaw01GXqkMg1AJERocFkQ2b2N&ust=1594757947658000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CA8Qhq8BahcKEwjgiPi6hsvqAhUAAAAAHQAAAAAQEw