John/Horace

Clear silicone on all the seams can sometimes stop water leaking in.

Welcome to the forum. How many miles/kilometers on car. Have they tried changing out the camshaft sensor that matches the code. Give the wiring that leads to the possibly faulty cam sensor a real close look for damage. The code is low voltage exhaust side sensor. LPG must be cheaper to use than gasoline, is the car being used as a work or service vehicle? How do I fix code p0335? What repairs can fix the P0335 code? Crankshaft sensor replaced. Repair or replace wiring harness. PCM replacement. Signal plate replaced. Engine timing belt or chain fixed along with any mechanical damage from this.

Alternator packed it in on hottest day of year; around 115k miles so a little bit early maybe. Dealer sells a reman for same price as aftermarket guys, 2 yr warranty if they change it, one if DIY. Half price from new unit, so kinda reasonable. The interesting part was a plastic (oil guard their words) thingy and the two new studs and detailed instructions with torque specs for the alternator install. Alternator is right below valve cover oil fill spout. No funnel and a sloppy oil change, easily drips oil right into alternator cooling fins...and then into electronics. So this is a necessary and useful retrofit that adds only minutes to the replacement job. My torque coupler was fine, even main bearings were very smooth and had lots of life IMO. Electronics failed internally (not diodes I tested that) so there was virtually no voltage/amperage coming out of alternator. It was labeled with Denso, one of the better electrical component manufacturers which was surprising to see. New unit just says Mopar reman so possibly rebuilt Denso. Had to replace one noisy idler pulley, belt only 1.5 yrs old, and it’s back on road. Around a 1.5 hr job including glycol reinstall.

There are several acid type cleaners, Prestone is a local brand here, Follow instructions don’t leave in engine too long, very corrosive. Wrecker stuff is sometimes a roll of dice, I have had issues before with used parts. Great you got in running again.

Wow that’s tight. There are medical looking like tong pliers that one poster used on utube to change out sensor. (Harbour Freight spark plug pliers look similar ) With back part of air intake removed it will be easier. Good opportunity to change power transfer case oil while it’s apart. Vent line can be used to pump in the 0.8 litre of 75w90; drain plug is underneath. It’s due to be changed now. I have changed cps on several other suv vehicles. Normally they pop out with some wiggling. One 10mm hold down bolt. It’s possible the misfire is caused by something else and cps is ok. Was car ever in an accident, are you the original owner ?Plastic intake manifolds can be cracked in an accident and sometimes and have to be replaced. Expensive part unfortuneltly. LKQ wrecker item probably.

Journey never had a cvt either a 4 speed with 2.4, or a 6 speed Chrysler transmission with 3.6. The caliber and patriot had a cvt but not journey. I haven’t changed my cps yet, but I have a new one on hand. Mine is awd as well. If intake is off to do rear plugs I think access would be better. Changing oil on power transfer unit is awkward enough, removal would be nasty. I hope it can stay in place.

Passenger side from underneath, just above exhaust pipe. https://www.google.ca/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DltiTOHLlUAc&psig=AOvVaw01GXqkMg1AJERocFkQ2b2N&ust=1594757947658000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CA8Qhq8BahcKEwjgiPi6hsvqAhUAAAAAHQAAAAAQEw

It is not in the open. You have to remove a small metal heat shield to get at the sensor, awkward. How was compression? New coil or plug could be faulty. Pain to swap out however. https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwihp4_E-8rqAhUCbc0KHaA2AiYQtwIwCXoECAQQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DHj3feemEwAg&usg=AOvVaw30TzL4FbhCjRgZTvmp03KE

Unless you are a licensed mechanic with a rack and engine stethoscope you can’t eliminate some stuff you’ve mentioned. Racks usually cause stiff steering and start to leak from seals when they are really shot. My WAG is upper strut mounts, need to lower struts and pivot them by hand to evaluate, although weight of car can change internal play. Normally changed as a unit, although with spring compressor set can be replaced by them selves. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2016,journey,3.6l+v6,3353540,suspension,strut+mount,7600

Interesting. Head light assembly change not just bulbs for functional upgrade. https://jalopnik.com/why-most-led-headlight-upgrades-dont-really-work-an-ex-1843070472

The part shown is for Dart, Journey should have something similar. Search with your vin number.

I’ve had two cars with it. Can be annoying. They work with radio frequency, 433 Mhrz to communicate with a receiver under the dash. It appears one of the four channels is not functioning any more. Tire pressure module receiving module probably. Free advice worth everything you pay for it. https://www.moparwholesaleparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-tire-pressure-monitoring-system-receiver-56046811ag

Welcome to the forum. How many miles? I’m more familiar with Hyundai, and they do go to limp mode on a high temperature code, trying to protect tranny. The temp sensor it built into a ribbon cable harness that is easy bumped when changing filter. Age makes plastic brittle and it’s not really possible to see break in the flex harness. People try reseating the connectors on the harness as a long shot. Hopefully someone with more Dodge knowledge can step up.

Can’t really test crank sensor with a regular meter. Normally you get a cps code but sometimes it can drop signal output and vehicle will stall without any stored code at all. Similarly incorrect codes like a cyclinder misfire can sometimes be created. Low probability occurrence.

Wow that seems weird. Holes in pic don’t look like machined openings, very odd. Did the removed engine have the same holes in that location. When I started to get a drip last year on my 3.6 I changed out my pump. Leak was from a degraded area of gasket, pump was fine and could have been reused. Too much work to take a chance so new pump was installed anyway with new oem gasket. All water pumps I have seen have a weep hole, it’s an early warning that bearing seal is shot, drips a bit as a warning. Bearing craps out quite soon after leak starts and liquid washes out bearing grease. How was glycol in the wrecker engine, nice and clean or was there straight water in it? Torque wrench used on water pump bolts?

Oem plug very pricy, NGK irredium is fine I’ve put 20k on mine with no issue. Mopar I think is Champion brand, not my favourite. I have heard of crank sensor causing a cyclinder misfire cars before, not very common. They are a wear item that can eventually leave you stranded. Fairly easy to change and not a pricy part. I hate just throwing parts at a car, but when the part is cheaper than any mechanic diagnostic I sometimes give in. Also easier than musical coils. New coil pack could be a dud. It’s a hazzle but you could move it to another cyclinder and see if code switches to other cyclinder. With the intake removed you could also remove plug and check compression on cyclinder #2 to rule out that remote possibility. Want to minimize removing that awkward plastic intake manifold. Pull fuel pump relay, cold engine will be lower psi but will indicate drastic deficiency.

Welcome to the forum. How many miles on vehicle? I would consider crank sensor before going after injector. They aren’t expensive, are a wear part and I am told can cause cyclinder misfire. Did you replace the oring seals in the lower intake manifold when you changed plugs, another possible cause for cyclinder misfire. What brand of plug was installed. I used NGK laser cut iredium on my 3.6 last year, and a OEM lower intake seal set. Injectors in my experience seldom wear out; quick and dirty test is screw driver on top of injector and you should hear clicking as it fires. Node light on harness shows signal to fire coming from ecm to harness plug.

It’s this. I don’t work for Rockauto, just good pics. Order oem part, price close, less risk. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2015,journey,2.4l+l4,3309783,ignition,crankshaft+position+sensor,7196

The rust IMO is not that bad and I would try sand and primer and paint or film of grease before trying to change it out.

If the old bolts look ok you can reuse if cash is tight, if head of bolt is rounded off I would replace that fastner. A torque wrench is important for tiny 40-60 inch pound fastners, very easy to break off heads. Borrow one if possible, mechanics are use to correct torque (tightness) and often don’t use one. RTV needs to cure 24 hrs before going back in service, for best results. If oil is not leaking yet, you could sand off the outer rust and if still no leak, apply a thin film of grease (very thin film) over the rusted part of oil pan. It doesn’t get hot enough to burn off and it will slow the rust temporarily until you can better deal with it. Environmental impact IMO minimal; smelting new steel and making new rtv has bigger foot print.

Given up the ghost how? What is the official diagnosis of the problem, top end,cyclinder head or cam issue, bottom end crank knocking. Maybe the mechanic you were going to have work on it has some connections for used engines.

There is an automatic purge valve for tank, could be starting to have an issue. Not expensive part. Could still be a stored code for that. Scanners are so cheap now they are worth having, one or two uses covers paying for code retrieval. I think the Elm327 Bluetooth scanner that uses phone app might be cheapest at around $18. Works best with android not Apple.

As Taylor Semi Swift has pointed out before. Haters are going to hate...... https://jalopnik.com/one-of-chryslers-worst-ever-car-platforms-dies-with-the-1844255863

My catalytic heat shield came loose towards front of car. Several sheet metal screws and washers and noise was fixed.

Oring comes with new filter and is changed every oil change. Doesn’t get old enough to harden up or wear out IMO. Torque spec is stamped in filter housing lid at 25 newton meters, eliminates guess work. I have changed oil on various Hyundai with this style plastic filter housing, one has over 200k and has never leaked. If you checked their forums you will not find it discussed. Plastic isn’t the problem imo. Common filter set up now. You don’t redesign a part that is working fine. German engineering filter design, bitog says. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4352133/all/2014_Dodge_Durango_3.6L_oil_co