John/Horace

Vacuum assist versus no vacuum assist. When car runs you have power brakes...which is vacuum assist via the booster shown in pic. Makes pedal easier to press.

If you can get teenagers working, my hats off to you. Cut her some slack for the radio, we have all made that mistake at one time or another. Glad you like your journey.

Even if no light on dash scan anyway. Any service work recently completed?

Often a obd diagnostic tool is used for some sensor replacements. Plug and play does not always work. At a minimum try clearing the codes again with a standard code reader, unhooking battery usually not helpful. Most mechanics have some type of advanced scanner Autotel etc for this kind of work beyond regular obd11 scanning.

There may be a relearn procedure for the new sensors you replaced. PCM reflashing. Are the same codes coming up after parts change?

I’m far from an expert on compression testing , there are various ways to get same result. Exhaust manifold always stays on shouldn’t have impact on compression test. TDC doesn’t matter for compression, it’s only useful for setting up timing. If all cam timing marks, all four and crank pulley Mark is on you should be fine. Cyclinder 1 will also have piston full extended at TDC. I usually do 720 degrees or two revolutions CW and make sure marks are still lined up, then I put covers back on. I like to paint Mark belt and pulleys before removing and then transfer marks to the new belt before install. Lots of licensed mechanics do this as well. Some engines the marks are harder to see, paint marks eliminates that problem. A car will kinda run on three cyclinders so that doesn’t prove anything. Cyclinder one is on the rear bank, closest to front of engine where pulleys are. Problems seems linked to the pulley key issue.

Cast meaning cast aluminum ? I’ve never seen aluminum used on a key way, put a magnet on and check. Most compression test procedures say to remove all plugs (manifold on back of v6) for compression test. Disable fuel pump hold, fully charged battery, all coils would be unhooked so no spark source would be present. Approx same number of cranks for each cyclinder. If valves not functioning properly then valves can’t allow either air in or air to be held in place for pressure build up; at least that what it seems. Got a picture of this pulley key way part issue. Ive done several timing belts on overhead cam engines, very awkward to do, some people use a set of wedges designed to hold pulleys from moving. As long as you get it on with out wrecking belt and everything gets retorqued that was loosened, I don’t a problem.

I don’t see three broken rings or bad pistons since it was just running. Rings can get gummed up from carbon if car is burning significant ,oil. Fixing cam pulley looks to be the right thing.

A new key way can be cut with a broaching tool in a shop with arbour press. But if small piece comes out cleanly and slot is good then a new piece of key worth $2 can be used. Some filing for sliding fit. Key stock is mild steel, acts like a sheer pin if shock loaded. Or go full McGyver since you have another engine. Line it up and tac weld in place. My lawn old Craftsmen tractor has a lot of welded in place stuff, new tractor parts are gold where I live, same as shipping.

Key stock is not that hard to come by, if the pulley key slot is ok I would replace key. Or use paint marker on pulley and shaft and confirm it’s not slipping. How about a table spoon of oil down the three cyclinders and try for compression. Wet test in other words.

Need to get out multi meter and figure out polarity etc. What has 12 volt positive (probably red) and what is on ground side. Harness needs one or both of blue wires to complete circuit, without a diagram you need to study it. It’s possible the low side switch is defective and causing problem, so try testing contacts with plug removed. Jumper will obviously go on plug end of wire harness feed, but I’m not sure where without a diagram.

He is not talking about removing battery, he is talking about testing diodes in alternator by unhooking positive battery terminal.

That’s a 1980’s car test maybe, With all the electronics and computer stuff on new cars I would not want to try that. Not to mention arc flash over a battery, which if low can be producing hydrogen gas, explosive. I have seen the results of a battery blow up before.

I try to compare new ones to old used ones if it’s not destroyed when removing. Sometimes when they don’t mark it, it doesn’t matter. Locally where I am there are several Oreilly’s type places run by kids, some half know what they are doing. Then there is the more expensive long time in business parts guy with staff with gray hair, one who is retired mechanic. Trade gets 30 percent discount, if I whine I might get 10 percent. They might tell you to go home and drag your cyclinder head or old bearing into store; but they will not knowingly sell your the wrong part. Like the dealer parts guy who warns you he hasn’t sold the part you are buying in 4 plus years; sometimes worth the extra hazzle to get to. Watch that surgery recovery.

Rear blender door actuator Mopar $53 Canadian pesos, convert to US dollars on site. Press info link for decent jpg pics on Rockauto. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9876484&cc=3015568&jsn=449&jsn=449 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2012,journey,3.6l+v6,3015568,heat+&+air+conditioning,heater+blend+door+actuator,10721

This looks like low side switch, it’s on the same line as charging port. High pressure side on a/c can reach over 210psi-ish which is shrapnel making velocity potential. Wear your jock and your goggles.?? If some refrigerant charge still partly there and no air (moisture mainly) got into system might be ok. If compressor starts up, start looking on high side, especially condenser coil across rad for hissing large leak.

If you can, remove the wheel spacers. They tend to wear out bearings and it’s better not to have them if possible. How many miles on car? Some mechanics have listening device to trouble shoot bearings etc. Rear driveshaft on awd vehicles can often be removed temporarily to prove if that’s the cause, pricy item to replace. I drove my grand Cherokee for its last two years without rear drive shaft, $1000 viscous coupling repair couldn’t be justified. Removing driveshaft was a 15 minute one wrench only job. There is one changeable part on driveshaft. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,drivetrain,drive+shaft+flex+joint,10701

Which engine four or six. Scanning for codes is usually first step. Fuse for push button start in passenger kick panel should be checked F121 I believe. It’s called wireless control module in owners manual.

Yeah should be a signal triggering clutch on compressor from hvac system. I haven’t had to work on my wife’s journey a/c yet, more familiar with older hyundai a/c.

Pressure is higher with system off, drops when running. Sounds like you have pressure so not empty system. You have your answer. Could check if 12 volt signal is coming to compressor plug when a/c is turned on. If not could be hvac control issue.

R134 is no that powerful for cooling and leak prone in my experience. How did you get kit for the different refrigerant ? Make sure it’s says compatible or you will have a mess. If it’s low it will feed into system from can and release low pressure switch and allow compressor to run. If you leave pierce valve all the way in and don’t back it off after piercing can no gas can be released into system. It takes up to approx. 5 mins to draw one can into system.

May be something as simple as what they call a winter leak. One pound out of three gone so low pressure switch not allowing start. R134 has a tendency to leak more than the larger molecule stuff like Redtek. Law says they can’t fill system with know leak hence the $700 quote. Nitro charge with die and goose chase for tiny leak.

Lines touching wouldn’t likely cause this unless they are chafing and there is visible damage. Put piece of foam around refrig line and tie wrap again. Press shrader valve pin slightly and see if has strong Low side pressure like 50 psi which is loud or if nothing or very slight puffing. Then lost refrigerant. How many k’s on car ? Is there rear air?

I had a friend who lost his Refrigerant in a new car after three weeks of ownership...stone impact clearly visible on condenser. Could be a bunch of different things . There are differences among car a/c systems that’s makes trouble shooting pretty involved. Low charge is probably what occurred, need to figure out what needs fixing. Hard to see all of condenser coil but check closely for an oil stain on the fins. Classic tell tale sign of refrigerant leak, pressing on shredder valve will confirm no pressure left in system. A set of refrigeration gauges also would confirm that. If no obvious signs of where refrigeration leak is than UV die needs to be added to system to pinpoint leak. Rear air systems would add even more stuff to check on. Shared compressor but two evap coils with pressure lines.

I have done head gaskets mainly on snowmobiles and small engines a few times. Although I did do a full tear down, crank bearings etc on a few VW air cooled engines years ago. Aluminum engines are from my understanding a lot more sensitive to work on for this kind of work than the old cast iron stuff. Overheating a newer style aluminum engine can do significantly more damage. I admire you taking a run at this kind of repair. There are a lot of full time shop mechanics who would stay very far away from a rebuild like this. I don’t know your starting compression before the job or cooling issues car went through etc. It’s possible the heads are warped to the point that without serious machine shop work you may have had limited possibility for success. The link I sent you more or less says the heads can’t be done with the block still in the car because of the way it was designed to come apart. Try to retorque head and try to get compression seems reasonable. Yeah with valves closed compression should build up.