John/Horace

One tooth on an interference engine shouldn’t have damaged valves or piston from contact. I would think there would still be some cyclinder fcompression, leak down if valves not fully closed would be supper fast after cranking stops. Lots of procedure steps affect compression testing, wet versus dry, intake throttle left closed versus open, number of revolutions, fuel pump disabled properly, etc.

That is low for a car engine, but cold cyclinder readings are normally slightly lower. Is it a thread in tester or a hold in place unit? I doubt car will run on 80-90 psi on several cyclinders. I think a new head gasket needs a few heat cycles to seat properly which could be part of issue. Fuel spark compression and then timing. But running engine needed to confirm timing. Although number one plug removed and screw driver down plug hole with crank at TDC is a crude confirmation. Piston should be at end of stroke at TDC.

Fun fun fun. Oil drips from worn lip seal on driver side rear diff. Level down to 650 from 800 ml fill level so no damage likely. Used the Mopar dealer seal , says US made on it, nice to see that when paying for premium part. Vehicle at 183 k kms or 120k miles approx, no major filings on plug just lots of fur, oil was already changed at least once with 75w90 synthetic. Didn't change c/v shaft, boots look good slight wear showing where seal was sitting. Polished with emery paper, so far not no leaks in two weeks. Want to stay with factory c/v shafts as long as possible. Difficulty level just above a brake job, imo.

Make sure all the electrical plugs are back together, easy to forget one. Starter spray tends to strip oil off the cyclinder walls so a little hard on engine. I like to use a syringe of gasoline down a cyclinder instead. Timing is critical when changing timing belts, even one tooth off and you can lose 8 degrees, car will run ruff...or not at all. You double checked cam and crank timing before reinstalling covers again?

Yes definitely not self leveling. I like KYB struts, they are a little more money.

The original c/v shafts I find our usually better quality than the reman Cardone shafts that everyone seems to sell cheap. I have had them wear really early out or be noisy right out of the box and have to immediately exchange the shaft for another one. I would stick with originals as long as possible. There are cheap new Chinese c/v shafts around as well, probably better than reman units. No difference changing oem or aftermarket, shafts have to be an exact fit always. Plug and play. Lube new shaft end to protect lip seal on transmission.

Auto recycler part from a low milage car could be an option. Not very hard to change part labour wise. https://www.lkqonline.com/

Could try snake oil, even if it works for a few weeks you know it’s gasket then. https://www.amazon.ca/Bars-Leaks-1111-Head-Gasket/dp/B0036VRQ70/ref=pd_sbs_263_3/130-5296810-8687009?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0036VRQ70&pd_rd_r=317a39b6-63f5-40f3-9fc6-37565394959d&pd_rd_w=z5r2y&pd_rd_wg=7J5XT&pf_rd_p=0ec96c83-1800-4e36-8486-44f5573a2612&pf_rd_r=KRAYM4V2H167FHCT5AWR&psc=1&refRID=KRAYM4V2H167FHCT5AWR Combustion gas test kit for $80ish will confirm with dye in cooling system changing color. https://www.amazon.ca/Block-Tester-BT-500-Combustion-Leak/dp/B06VVBSFTF/ref=pd_sim_263_1/130-5296810-8687009?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06VVBSFTF&pd_rd_r=317a39b6-63f5-40f3-9fc6-37565394959d&pd_rd_w=04wwV&pd_rd_wg=7J5XT&pf_rd_p=0283a3e9-a4fe-432a-a818-ec8cc83679ed&pf_rd_r=KRAYM4V2H167FHCT5AWR&psc=1&refRID=KRAYM4V2H167FHCT5AWR

Clean off all main ground straps, scratch to bare metal and use dielectric grease on connections. BCM can cause a lot of weird stuff but normally accessory function issues only. WAG. One of the battery sensors. Free advice is worth everything you pay for it. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,electrical,battery+temperature+sensor,10478 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,2.4l+l4,3038628,electrical,battery+current+sensor,13536

Thanks for reporting back. You found it yourself ? They also call it the c/v intermediate shaft some times. Rockauto has no listing for the 2.4 part for some reason, odd. It’s fairly cheap for 3.6 model. I have changed one of these on a Hyundai a few years back, somebody on this site had this problem last year, asked about how to change it but never reported back what happened. If you had the shaft off it’s possible just the bearing could be sourced and the shaft reused. Or maybe the same bearing is used on 3.6 assembly and it can be moved over to your used shaft. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,drivetrain,cv+intermediate+shaft,14499

The plate heat exchanger has highly treated glycol running through it. Really no reason for it to be plugged up, a chemical descaler might help marginally. There are problems with plastic part of het exchanger cracking and o ring failures. The heater core has supply and return hoses running through firewall, like the a/c evaporator does. If one hose is hot and no heat in cabin more likely one of the dash actuator switches not working. If your dash cluster is now showing reasonable engine temperature I think flow is ok. If heat is coming and going, glycol level or thermostat could be problem.

I would swap tranny filter if you have pan off, it’s only around $35 oem, you are close to change interval. It’s always best to use new silicone from a fresh tube and let it set overnight before refilling with oil if possible. Oil rated rtv usually bracket or grey in color. Did your transmission actually stop working so torque converter was replaced along with transaxle oil pump in recall ?

All trannys not the same, looks like pan could have stayed in place on this unit, skimming through the procedure. I would have paid them to drop pan and replace filter during a major repair like this; but it would have been extra. Wrestling entire transmission in and out with jacks, supporting unit etc disturbed the pan seal it seems. I’m sure you have new fluid from pump change, although didn’t actually read it. When I changed my oil and filter at 125kms my pan was starting to seep at one corner. My 2014 wouldn’t have had the pump change recall. Pretty sure pan was never off by previous owner having work done, he supplied all service records.

Transmission shops have a special sealer that cures in 15 mins and is not rtv, but is very expensive. I think factory assembly uses same stuff, stiffer and harder to remove that silicone rtv. RTV is still often used because it’s cheaper and more readily available. Sometimes you can get a little seepage from old rtv, only a few drops will attract dirt and look bad. Physical drips forming on pan is when you have to react. It’s good to pay attention and catch things early before damage occurs. A car on a hoist exposes things not normally seen, useful. I just replaced rear diff lip seal that was causing actual drips, level was 650 ml ...down from 800 rated capacity. Not low enough to cause damage in minimal driving lately.

Transmissions have a hydraulic pump and they are very sensitive to low levels of fluid, cavitation from small amounts of air can actually damage the pump. That’s possibly why the over fill after pump change, yes the pan was removed during the work. Slightly high is fine, even a little variance in level of vehicle can impact fluid level measurement. The possible missing screw also not important, There are often extra bolt holes in engine block and other parts of subframe for different options and sometimes for factory uses, like shipping hold down brackets. Parts often come in from all over in special reusable racking, and parts need restraining.

Thanks for follow up. Curious what brand of battery. Not that one early failure represents a product line.

It’s not a conductivity probe I believe, just a simple float. Buoyancy could very slightly with alcohol content versus straight water but I doubt it changes trigger point enough to be noticeable. You probably have a flaky probe. Only issue I have with my system is passenger side hood sprayer fell apart. Pricy piece of plastic. Previous owner probably used water as some point.

https://jalopnik.com/bar-fights-lawsuits-and-the-flu-pandemic-the-war-betw-1830081587

Ouch. How many k’s on vehicle? May have only had a loose clamp and hose came off and dumped glycol, need a diagnosis from mechanic. Was repair correctly done? People should warranty their work for a period of time.

I’ve done more than google research with the heat exchanger; I replaced mine when it leaked two years ago. There is a lot of pressure from pumping cold oil, there were failures of o ring seals, mine did. Sticking to 5w20 synthetic is a good idea in the north (although mine failed with 5w20 Castro Edge in not extreme cold at 90k miles). The quest for fuel economy means heating the oil quicker and more efficiently. Location of heat exchanger makes it a bear to change. Just grabbing a thermostat housing with a colder thermostat Installed off the shelf may not be that easy. Rockauto shows only the factory 93C or 203F unit offered in six different brands. Pickup 3.6’s use an aluminum thermostat housing and thermostat can be popped out of housing and probably changed but itself. It’s the same engine so may be possible to install it on a journey. Transverse versus in-line engine mountings. Search the Ram forums for what the DIY folks are doing, or charger people. https://www.rippmods.com/collections/maintenance-replacement-parts/products/2012-2016-pentastar-180-deg-thermostat

Extreme heat kills batteries faster than cold just mentioning it. Flaky sensor-issues sometimes tied to .battery. I have found that engine oil usually closely follows glycol temp , usually a little lower at all times. So 275 is high, full synthetic claims more protection for extreme heat, that is one option. There are often other thermostat choices for vehicles other than factory default unit. Since it’s the engine glycol cooling your oil in the heat exchanger you could easily lower that 275 oil temp with a cooler setting of thermostat. Thermostat comes with housing, it’s cheap and easy to change. Last is quote from the google...they think 275 is too much as well. Search Results Featured snippet from the web A quality conventional motor oil will tolerate oil sump temperatures of up to 250 degrees, but starts breaking down over 275 degrees. The traditional approach is to try to hold oil temperatures between 230 and 260 degrees.

Checking for signs of heat or mice damage to wiring harness going to cam sensors could be first step. Unplug sensors and look for corrosion on plug pins, reseat each with dielectric grease. If it was really a bad sensor I think you would have on going drive ability issues. The 2.4 seem to have cps crank position issues sometimes, a flaky crank sensor could also possibly trigger this code. Failed cps means tow truck and it’s fairly cheap part. I don’t like throwing parts at a car...but known wear items I tend to replace before getting stuck, I also do some long trips and want confidence in my vehicles. Even low voltage from a tired original battery can do weird things. Vague diagnosis with laundry list of possibilities not really useful IMO, and normally not cheap. I would eliminate some of the wear items first, then pay for professional help second.

Which engine, milage on vehicle would be useful. Still original battery ? Sensors sensitive to voltage in system.

Try pressure testing system, could be reservoir cap or water pump or something letting air in system. On cars with cap on top of rad it’s sometimes easy to see air bubbles coming to the top with car started and cap off. One hose going to heater core is supply, the other is return. Often there is a bypass valve actuator controlled by hvac that enables flow to core. With air bubbles in system water pump cavitates and can’t push glycol where it needs to flow to, even if hvac is functioning correctly.