John/Horace

Welcome to the forum. You probably know most of this already if you work on cars regularly. You said left head so the six engine. I think that was first year of 3.6 issue only, maybe someone will answer if they know for sure. How many miles on engine, still any power train warranty left. Could mark cyclinder 2 coil and swap location and see if it follows to another cyclinder. My bet is bad coil. Did you use new o rings on lower intake while doing spark plugs. Vacuum intake leak can cause cyclinder misfire occasionally. If you are in that deep, cyclinder compression test useful info to eliminate that possibility. Even a bad cam or crank sensor can create a cyclinder misfire I’ve heard, although never experienced. Injectors seem to rarely fail on cars, still a possibility.

Glad you got it done. I need to do this again soon on mine. Some times a bit of a flush helps a little too. As long as there is no large particles of metal in the oil you should be fine. I used the Mopar stuff last time, close to after market price.

BCM body ground control module if it’s bad can create a lot of weird difficult to diagnose problems on a vehicle. Not sure if it’s tied into climate control on a journey. The module has to match exactly the options on a car for it to be effective, so recycled parts from a wrecker not a good option with this type of electronic part.

It’s air intake throttle body with plastic shroud leading to air filter. Little finicky with all plastic parts.

Usually there are signs of a major engine failure, like knocking and low oil pressure, lost power etc. In original post you talked about lost power. Tough break at a tough time. I would want to put a wrench and physically make sure crank pulley can’t be turned with reasonable effort ...with my own eyes. Unless you really trust this guy. An engine and starter simultaneously seizing statistically I guess is possible. Used cars are always a gamble. Even the best engineered vehicles without proper maintenance will fail prematurely IMO.

Welcome to the forum...free advice is worth everything you pay for it. You don’t say which engine you have. Lots of bearings spinning on front of engine that can make noise. If the tensioner pulley or idler are still original they can start to get noisy by 100k. (mine did on 3.6 engine) Remove belt and give them a spin with the belt off. Then tensioner is often sold as an expensive assembly, but Rockauto sold just the pulley with a bearing installed for reasonable $. Could run engine for 30 seconds with belt off to confirm it’s something driven by belt and not internal engine stuff; with water pump not turning don’t run it for long. This may generate codes from alternator not functioning in system. Good luck.

One section of intake manifold needs to be removed that is close to back of engine compartment. You will then see vent hose. Won’t show up on engine compartment pics that I’ve seen.

No experience fortunately. There are other symptoms of door locks, wipers also not working properly if it is TIPM issue, or so it says on line. I assume fuse F121 was not blown. If fuel pump signal was gone I would think it would still try to start car. I have had a fuel pump driver module issue on my F150. Turned out to be $10 fusable link and 3” of wire and some solder. Got off lucky. https://www.verticalvisions.com/tipm-fuel-relay-solutions.html

Aluminum on aluminum parts often have special gaskets that never use sealant, just clean parts with lacquer thinner. They are MLS gaskets made with several layers and a special primer on outer surface for adhesion; they go on dry. Ive used them on Yamaha snowmobile jug/piston rebuilds, work great. https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/sealed-with-science-tips-for-perfect-head-gasket-sealing/

Timing Is fixed on any vehicle I’ve ever worked on, the fixed number of gear teeth determining that. Off one tooth is often 8degrees of timing which will make vehicle run like crap. Always rotate engine at least 360 degrees two turns clockwise after belt install to make sure all markings still good, tooth hasn’t skipped by accident on one of pulleys. Dealer mechanic I knew used to paint mark existing belt and pulleys, just easy way to avoid mistakes. I do the same thing. Tension on belt is however adjustable, although lots of vehicles have spring/hydraulic loaded tensioner. I would make sure to replace the belt tensioner because of how critical it is. Stretch tty bolts should only be on cyclinder head .

Level of fluid matters, I fill to the second fill line. Try cleaning/inspecting reservoir like hankster suggested. If it’s a 3.6 engine the pump change will be a challenge, looks like part of exhaust needs removing. I have used suction pump and replaced all the fluid on mine more than once. The additives wear out and there is no filter in system, just a screen usually at bottom of reservoir on most cars left with hydraulics system.

Mounts Usually more of a high milage older car thing, but possible. Vibration at idle can often be an engine issue; scan for codes, even if no check engine light. Knocking going over bump can be dozens of things in suspension. Check for play in ball joint, tierod, sway bar links etc.

If there is warranty on ptu maybe go back and see them. If you are changing oil look with a magnet for metal filings.p

All gear boxes and transfer cases and differentials have a vent because of differential pressure. Oil and assembly air space heat up with use and would pressurize, forcing oil out through gaskets and seals if not vented. Usually the vent tube has a small one way check valve at top to prevent contamination; on jeeps especially they go up high as they can in case anyone plays Uboat captain. I changed the oil two years ago and have no pic. I’m due to change it again in a few weeks, will post a picture then. I’ve never seen it shown on engine bay diagram.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2009508 Great write up on link about torque to yield heat bolts Paint mark the belt on the pulleys, transfer marks to the new belt. Some cars have recess in block where bolt goes through pulley to prevent them from moving. Should be timing marks on cams and TDC on timing cover. Mitchel is good for specs and procedures.

Looks like rear forward lateral arm. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7525384&cc=1447563&jsn=14&jsn=14 And rear upper control arm, adjustable is what people are recommending costs a bit more, $60 plus shipping. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8439460&cc=1447563&jsn=35&jsn=35 Plus the upper $7 bushing . https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8438860&cc=1447563&jsn=462

Someone needs to build one of these.

Over the counter RTV needs to dry over night at reasonable temperature before you refill fluid, or it will leak. Transmission shops have a special sealer that does set really quick so they don’t have to do that. Trade transmission parts supply places will sell it, very pricy I hear. Same stuff factory uses.

Somebody needs to be one of these with a 70-80’s Dodge Colt and a Dakota frame with a V8 of course. https://jalopnik.com/the-infamous-brooklyn-trar-1843021840

Fluid levels would have to be off for quite a while to cause the wear that would create a noticeable sound. I have seen the tin foil heat shield on these cars come partly loose and rub on drive shaft. They are held in place with very few fastners, adding a washer and few extra fastners fixes it. Drive in a tight circle at slow speed with windows down and listen for sounds, both directions.

Back of the engine compartment. It’s a rubber hose you can follow up from the ptu unit. IIRCC I removed part of the plastic intake when I changed the oil.

Try jump starting car with jumper cables from other car, using the remote connectors under the hood. Report back what happens.

Yeah monthly is reasonable on a car you know with no ongoing issues. When I first get a vehicle it’s weekly until I trust vehicle. For a car to all of a sudden drink 3 quarts of oil out of the blue with no visual signs like oil slick in drive away or blue smoke billowing from exhaust or running like death...very unusual IMO. I think spark plugs would foul really rapidly if the oil is being consumed by engine in short time frame like a thousand miles. Catalytic converters on vehicle will also be toast really quick.

In the front the strut mount bearings wear out eventually, get noisy from corrosion etc. By the time you buy strut mount and cartridge and wrestle with spring might as well buy whole strut. You would also need a good strut compressor tool to do the job. Labour intensive job as well. I like KYB struts, not sure if they make ones for journey.

Another option is a nut splitter. It wrecks nut but doesn’t damage threads underneath. Princess Auto (Harbour Freight) and Canadian Tire carry them. Buying online from web site and pick up only, no store entry in my area, social distancing. Larger one is $25 at crappy tire regular price.