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Everything posted by John/Horace
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Fix, who said anything about fix. Maybe it’s just a Russian thing, love Japlopnik site sometimes. https://jalopnik.com/those-crazy-russian-bastards-built-both-the-loudest-and-1842529472
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Engine Sputter after Crankshaft Position Sensor Changed
John/Horace replied to keithisjonesn's topic in Engine & Transmission
That’s great news it’s fixed. I use that same stuff on both my vehicles on the throttle body intake normally once a year. I’ve seen the same symptoms cleared by cleaning the mass air flow sensor. But you don’t have one, 2.4 is a map sensor design. Thanks for update, that’s how we all learn. Stay safe. -
Engine Sputter after Crankshaft Position Sensor Changed
John/Horace replied to keithisjonesn's topic in Engine & Transmission
Because crank cps code is still coming back I think it is the primary problem. It could be causing the cyclinder misfire when there isn’t really another problem. If you want to avoid throwing another part at it you could trouble shoot more. Mark the coil on cyclinder #1 then move it to cyclinder #2; clear code and drive car; if it comes back to #1 examine plug. Some electrical problems only visible on an osciliscope, mechanics don’t have these, more of an electronics tec thing. Cps seems to be an issue with the 2.4 at fairly low milage. My daughter in law just had an issue with her 2012 at 60k miles or 100k kilometres. She is 5 hrs away, local dealer decent so they changed it out. No further issues. Let us know if you figure it out. -
Engine Sputter after Crankshaft Position Sensor Changed
John/Horace replied to keithisjonesn's topic in Engine & Transmission
Did mechanic check for other engine codes ? Codes good starting point even if no light on dash. How many miles on car, I believe the oem plugs on the 2.4 are copper core on some years, so 50k mile approx change interval. Was it an oem sensor. Some Tec’s believe on critical components it’s better to buy a usually more expensive factory part. But if mech showed normal signal should be ok, what was his suggestion for engine stutter? -
Fits into black plastic grommet that pushes into the sheet metal. Beside glycol reservoir, it’s mounted to indent in passenger inner fender sheet metal where the yellow dot in picture is. Stay save, I lived in Vancouver as a toddler decades ago.
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Interior lights issue
John/Horace replied to Rtlifeisthelifeforme's topic in Electrical, Battery & Charging
So if you just slide dimmer switch to top setting with car off do they come on.? They should cycle off/on using this switch manually. If so you are correct it’s something else. Check setting for passive entry under lights options in uconnect, is it checked and opening/closing door locks automatically. There are some neat options for lights on this vehicle. I also like the button on that hatch for triggering power locks. -
ABS Valves causing ignition off power draw?
John/Horace replied to acwats's topic in Electrical, Battery & Charging
Is there any stored codes.? I would scan even if there is no light on dash. Has car ever been in a large accident that was repaired? Very tricky with no drawing to trouble shoot. I would mark abs relay under hood and switch it with another identical one in box, see if still amp draw with engine off. If someone you know has a Mitchel log in there might be electrical schematics there you could print out. Maybe check main plug on abs pump under hood for signs of corrosion. Remember free advice is worth everything you pay for it. -
When someone complains about their current car being unreliable crap...it bothers me. We are spoiled in so many ways that the real junk of the past no one really remembers now. Perspective matters.
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Very simple but crude vehicle. Very slow because of heavy weight under powered engine, fuel economy not horrible. Exhaust pipes and other metal very thick so you could fix stuff your self. No catalytic converter I think was why back pressure mattered. Just a catalytic by itself could be the minimal back pressure a 4 stroke normally aspirated engine needs. Entire electrical system wired with four colors of wire. Trying to trace an issue not exactly easy to do. Tool kit from car hilarious but functional. I still have two metric wrenches from the kit. Excellent strength steel, but machining and forging very ruff. One wrench has the size stamping mixed up. Small 10 mm end says 13 and vice versa. Bad vodka day maybe.
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Seeking A Friend For The End of The World is a 2012 apocalyptic movie appropriate for our times .... and the main character played by Steve Carrell is named Dodge. I don’t know why their marketing department has missed this. Maybe too busy. Movie didn’t do well on rotten tomatoes mmm. https://www.imdb.com/title/ https://www.rottentomatoes.com/m/seeking_a_friend_for_the_end_of_the_world
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I think back pressure occasionally matters. But very rarely. I had a 1979 Russian car called a Lada , body was 20:yr old Fiat 124 design IIRCC and engine was ancient 4 cyclinder 1.5 liter VW design of some sort. People called it a Lada trouble, which it was. Exhaust broke right at exhaust manifold and I had to drive it a few days during college exams. Car lost about 50 percent of power so it strangely needed back pressure. It was a single overhead cam design. Power came back with mig welded sleeve repair. Carburetor with manual choke pull lever. There was a place for a manual hand crank to fit into front of engine crank pulley. But retrofitted canadian bumpers covered the spot where crank linkage needed to go through. Always want to drill out hole to try and hand crank the engine. Car had its own tool kit, with manual pump strong enough to actually pump up a car tire. I learned more about car repair in 12 months of ownership then I have ever learned since. To keep one on the road you needed a separate parts car. Which you could buy for $50 in 1984.
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Doesn’t appear a hemi has been transverse mounted in a production model yet. Always a first though. https://www.carthrottle.com/post/8-cars-with-front-mounted-transverse-v8-engines/
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With the ecm computer and dozens of sensors involved engine/tranny swaps are super complex projects. Wiring harness and sensor work would be epic, fabricating custom engine subframe cradle beyond backyard mechanics. Also places with annual emission testing would make getting your vehicle passed , I want to say a journey, but I used that pun last posting. So I will just say difficult.
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Sometimes it’s not the destination but the journey (good dodge pun). Waste of time a little harsh imo. Hemi in a journey sounds like a really cool idea. Might need a few shoe horns to get it to fit. Up until 2012 it’s seems there was more mechanical issues on journeys. The 3.6 V6 used since them with a 6 speed automatic has tons of power so people don’t seem motivated for more power. A hemi in a journey does have a Holden type feel to it. Maybe next madmax flick could fit one in; someone contact George Miller. Fury Road was my favourite picture in 2015.
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Spectra is an ok brand I’ve used them. Should be some kind of warranty on it. Fins can be brushed back a bit in a few spots without any issues, just looks bad. There are thin tubes atttatched to fins that carry the glycol, look for a kink in one of these. The older full copper rads were more durable than new plastic tank aluminum units . Smelling glycol after working on rad/water pump not surprising ; so many small recesses where glycol pools and sits. It can take 50 miles and several heat cycles to just burn off residual glycol from engine bay, fender skirts etc. I would borrow another pressure tester before taking anything apart. If hose rubber flattened out at connection point, shorten hose slightly so there is new sealing surface for spring clamp. Or switch to gear clamp if you suspect a drip from a weak spring clamp.
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If made up means double gear clamps, good luck. Even return line is probably 150 plus psi, and gear clamps back off over time. Rough roads and cold weather rattles stuff loose, even parts with rubber component. My 2014 line was changed two years ago under recall, it wasn’t leaking at 123k yet. The new one has a coating of fluid Film rust protectant on it.
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The pivot bar that goes inside is wider than the hole it’s going into, it extends across the inside of hole. Hate seeing China on a critical part but ....
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Manifold cobra 500:psi hose and regular splice not good enough. Hydraulic power steering can peak at a little over 2000 psi for a few seconds, google it. A hydraulic shop can do a special splice that will hold, with metal or Kevlar strand reinforced hose . Even princess auto is set up for custom fabricated pieces. Power steering pumps have built in pressure relief valves so when steering held at full lock lines don’t blow. It’s possible your pump has an issue, decent mechanic shop would have ability to measure system pressure. Rockauto has hoses and cooler and it’s not $600 for parts.
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It pivots to get it in and out, only takes a few seconds to remove. Old design around for years. No real pressure in oil pan. More of an emergency repair thing. My brothers 300 had the threads seize up at 300k on his aluminum pan. If you are comfortable using a tap, not a big deal.
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When I changed my water pump I also replaced the thermostat. High milage vehicle and it can be a wear item and it’s cheap so I changed it out. Wrestling hoses and plastic parts and cold weather not a great combination. Entire plastic housing and thermostat with new oring flange gasket and bleeder screw built in for $24 approx from Rockauto, oem part. Look for a drip over night maybe, put clean cardboard under engine.
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There are cheap bung type repair plugs you can install yourself without any threading needed. Buys you some time. I had one on a crappy beater car for three years without any issues, Pan got so rusted out and I eventually replaced complete pan. If you have access to use of a large set of taps and a tee tapping handle you could try to clean out the threads. Not much material there and avoid going too deep into pan with tap, oil pump pickup might be close to pan bottom. https://www.amazon.ca/Dorman-HELP-65109-Drain-Plug/dp/B000CO96CM/ref=asc_df_B000CO96CM/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=335246916381&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6248474367925628452&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000883&hvtargid=pla-570913404624&psc=1
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Thanks for the update. Aftermarket or Mopar, just curious.
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There are battery senors that are tied to ecm, it’s possible the bad connections or battery failure triggered some weird stuff. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,electrical,battery+temperature+sensor,10478 There is also an electronic battery curent sensor that links to a battery management system. Not all journeys have this option. My 2009 ford pick up has one of these type of systems, shuts down power if you leave stuff on. If battery Is replaced there is a relearn procedure that occurs. Lots of complaints about this system acting up causing problems on F150’s.
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Actually having two in family not a liability; especially if you are capable of trouble shooting and turning a wrench or have a mechanic you can trust. Cheap purchase price and fairly cheap parts make DJ a decent car buy imo. Battery cables are multi strand wires so a nick in the plastic can allow corrosion to work it’s way around. Could you just remove the ends buy new ones and silver solder them on; yeah sure. But the time involved and fairly cheap part price and nasty location makes hard to argue about replacing parts. Especially people in rural areas with no mechanic around the corner. Mecahnics use to rebuild starters and alternators etc, now they are parts changers with labor rates being so high. Waiting for complete failure on battery for example can be a real pain if you aren’t prepared for it. Ive spent a warm week in Newfoundland in July, beatuful rugged place, but not a place to get stuck in a 50cm plus snow dump.