John/Horace

Great info. I need to add the big extra ground, have a few cables to choose from. It is surprising they used Denso alternator and starter (part of Toyota group) on our Journeys. There are some slightly early failures recorded on this site. But not that many, my wife’s alt went at just over 100k miles (slightly early imo). At least they didn’t cheap out there. Older Chrysler stuff often used Mistsubishi starter/alternators…because they owned around 5% on Mitz for years. Daimler/Chrysler years is another convoluted story. My spare cable stash, will one of these.

Search site, lots of posts about that. Removing drive shaft is the best way to do it. There is a power plug underneath going to transfer case. You will get a check engine light but that would also prevent it from engaging automatically via clutch. Not really isolated from most mechanical action. Coupling at both ends, hanger bearing in middle with two more bolts.

Need to pull the fuse for the hvac actuator before changing it out. It has a always on power source so it can open after card is turned off. Shops use a scanner tool and set it to calibrate to replace actuator. I found pulling fuse ahead of changing it works fine. Not doing this there will clacking noise as actuator won’t know what position it’s in and it will eventually strip the plastic gears. Also swap the stupid Philips head screws for 1/4” socket head screws the same length. Makes life easier.

The voltage outputs seem about right. The hvac circ fan and rad elect fan will drop charging voltage at bit when running. Maybe try unplugging and repluggng amperage sensor on battery negative terminal. It’s seems like a phantom low reading . So wiring diagram with pin out for ecm, then search every part of battery monitoring circuit. Looking for a bad connection. Electrical specialist shop much better at this type of thing than traditional mechanics.

On ac setting mine keeps the recirc setting. On heat I believe it doesn’t. When car is shut off after a few seconds you will hear a noise in dash. The car automatically opens fresh air vent to the outside, for about 45 seconds. Then closes it again. Prevents mold build up in hvac vents. You can see it do this if you remove the cabin air filter on passenger front dash, behind glove box opening. Good idea to change this filter every year or two. Fresh air recirc servo motor in dash is located on right side of housing where the cabin filter slides in. If windshield has winter fogging issues. It’s this servo that needs replacing. Not expensive, but awkward to swap out.

Extended water test with hose, not a drop came in. Hiway at 70 mph in rain will be the real test. Over 150k miles and original engine and tranny, means above ave vehicle in my books. Water came in around the two trim clip recess pockets in the pic. Black urethane around them now. Steady flow water behind fender liner shows no cowling blockage.

Major flood during rain storm on passenger side carpeting. While sitting in driveway overnight , probably 1.5 inches of water. Had to remove trims pieces and lift up carpeting to dry things out. Hard to do with the spongy foam insulation down there. Don’t want mold so had to run an old hair dryer for a while to really dry everything. Spent a lot of time trying to figure out where the water was getting in. Don’t want to go through the crazy drying out process again. Fortunate to have a garage to work on as several more rain storms have come through. There is a stamping on the metal channel that runs under the door, it has tack welds around it. If I ran a hose on passenger side windshield, water oozes out around the tac welds. The channel is filled with spray foam and there are recessed plastic pockets to hold trim clips. After removing cowling covers and finding no blockages, the fender liner had to come out as well. I think it’s fixed, giving polyurethane caulk more time to dry before testing. It appears the square exit drain from the windshield plastic cowling which dumps water against the back of fender liner was the cause. Lots of gaps around the sheet metal brackets that are tacked together to make up the fire wall. Water was some how making its way through to the bottom door channel and then oozing out onto the floor mat. I put a bead of the under water rated urethane right on the leak inside cabin door channel, as well as sealing up multiple gaps in the sheet metal pieces that make up the firewall. I hope not to have to rip everything apart again, it was very time consuming. No goldfish were harmed during this repair procedure.

WAG….crank position sensor. . Doesn’t always store a code with quick shut downs. It’s a wear item, if over a 100k miles I just change them out, heat and vibration wear them out.

Can you turn over engine if you put a ratchet on crank pulley? What is the battery voltage. If it can be manually turned over and battery is low, try jump starting it. Push button is fussy on voltage, battery must be in decent shape.

The new TPMS sensors I have used are the preprogrammed Dorman and the cheapest one on RockA, Schrader I think $30 Cdn $. Both came up after 10 mins driving over 30 mph. Winter tire rims I don’t bother, too pricy and tires are old. With my bead breaker I can just change them out without removing tire. A metal special tire wedge and a 2x4 gives me enough gap. Wheel weights marked to keep spot, so no balancing. Heavy soap mix solution or bead glide to help seat side wall. Yup..I am cheap. Need to keep an eye on the rear caliper parking brake mechanism. On both our journeys they started to hang up and not retract completely. Was able to free them up once or twice for a few months. Eventually replaced both on the 2014. The 2012 has one that still drags, haven’t done it yet. Can tap it back to full retracted position easily with a small hammer without jacking up car. If you use them all the time I don’t think this issue comes up. It’s seizing from sporadic use. I put larger retracting springs on one caliper and have 2 extra years without hanging up. Maybe another salt belt issue, no else mentions this issue on the site mmm.

And if you change O2 sensors. Use NTK part of NGK corp, I put them in almost 100k miles ago without issues. I was doing plugs and had intake removed and the O2 were in the change zone. The upstream one’s like 5 rebel said are the fuel trim, so affect fuel economy. I assume you have checked cat recall. Some people got them changed in emissions warranty no charge, but I think 2.4 engine. Exhaust leaks can cause a 420 code as well. Flex section or before cats mainly. Is exhaust loud?

Always try to move tightened battery posts with a gloved hand afterwards. You should not be able to twist it, if so tighten more. Then try again. Also after charging for a few minutes the battery is not back to normal. A plug in charger for 5-6 hours is the best way to bring a battery back to full level.

USB jump drive can be loaded with thousands of songs and played in car. Stream music from phone with Bluetooth. Radio Paradise is a free listener supported app. Can download blocks of songs on phone so you don’t have to use data. Can use dash or steering controls to jump songs. My wife still has a functioning iPod in house, but they force you to switch tec.

Need to put a multi meter on battery jump terminals when it’s running. See what voltage you are getting. Should be 13.5-14.5 approx. Then throw on heater fan and head lights, see what you get. Should still be above 13 or you probably got a bad alternator. Was it reman or brand new.

We are both in the rust belt. Similar miles to yours and our flange bolts have disintegrated. Had to add split flanges to two of the connections before they separated. The flex will probably go next year. Walker stuff is not bad aftermarket. Hate working with exhaust without a hoist. The heat shields have all had extra screws added to them by now. Those are easy fixes.

The 2.4 around your model year had a cat recall. My daughter in laws 2012 got a brand new cat, even though only 60k miles on it. Federal regulations up here. If they start to plug can affect driveabilty a lot. Worth checking out.

I think the amp in the back for rear sub has its own power feed. Probably main ignition switch fires main power, then an always on constant power for radio memory, cd . So possibly up to three power sources.

Yup a four pin harness plug going to coil. Not a regular cop set up for sure. Only $40 so much cheaper set up mmm.

I definitely have feet. 😳Remote trouble shooting of electrical problems without a wiring diagram is not easily done. There is a whole 30 minute routine to trouble shoot the cam sensors on a 3.5. I don’t even have the 3.5 engine. Problem could be as simple as a bad plug on a cam sensor … or timing marks from belt change. I’m impressed you got this far. Most diy people don’t even attempt a timing belt change. This is advanced trouble shooting territory unfortunely. The 3.5 engine is worth fixing, my brother put over 200k miles on one. Belt hard to change but for several reasons possibly better than the newer 3.6 engine. Emissions rules killed off the 3.5.

Maybe the domed end is stopping it. Try pivoting it down in the middle where hanger bearing is. May need to spin rear wheels, have tranny in neutral so you can manipulate shaft position a bit.

Cam sensor issues can prevent a car from starting. And cause cylinder misfire codes. It seems there is a relearn procedure, but diagnostic trouble codes will prevent procedure from being done. So they have to be cleared first. Using a multi meter the cam sensor wire harness and sensors need to be tested first before trying a relearn. Supply voltage of 5 volts, correct ohms for cam sensors; feed from ecm to actual sensor plug. So wiring diagram needed as well.

Wow you have been busy. Often crank sensors are plug and play, cam not as likely. Your listed codes could be so many things. You mentioned a few posts back about breaking map sensor and gluing it. The 3.6 has one, you have a maf mass air flow sensor. They can get dirty and cause rich codes and rough idle etc. and the listed codes. Need special spray cleaner to not wreck it. It’s located in the intake air ducting. Simple and worth trying. Should not be any broken tiny wires in the fine mesh.

Have you put a wrench on crank pulley bolt and tried to manually rotate engine? This is an aluminum engine block and heads with c.i. liners. Not as tuff as cast iron engines. Hoping thats not the problem.

What voltage is the battery showing. Put a charger on it or try jump starting the car. These push button start set ups need a good strong battery or they won’t try to start. If battery good, yeah check fuses.

I have swapped Journey batteries more than once. I think the pedestal is just big enough for the larger group 34/78. However the hold down bracket probably is not. If you have access to a welder, you may be able to modify it. Another option is staying with 86 and going to a AGM style battery for approx a $100 more. Faster charging, slower discharge when sitting. All Lexus and other luxury cars ship with them. Better for high electrical load newer cars.