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Everything posted by John/Horace
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In my best Borat voice. Niiicce very niiccee.
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Dozens of things. Temperature sensors, refrigerant levels etc. On heat settings it holds temp correctly, is a/c only thing erratic ? Not blowing at all means rear fan not coming on, no air flow.? Side to side is actuator in dash like mentioned in this forum several times.
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Reverse Lights low voltage
John/Horace replied to aeroskies's topic in Electrical, Battery & Charging
Welcome to the forum. Make sure to get a good ground for meter, scratch to bare metal if needed. Are back up lights led or just regular 12 volt bulbs. Transmissions have a back up sensor normally that sends signal to car that reverse is actuated. Not sure if it’s ground or power, I would guess powered 12 volt switch. -
Welcome to the forum. If it’s draining battery in 4 hours must be a lot of current. Most fuses are in the passenger front kick panel. I would pull the fuse for radio temporarily band see what changes. Seems like to much drain for radio staying powered up. Cars have a go to sleep function for most electronics, takes a few minutes to trigger but once activated the drain should be in the digital clock range of 75-150 milli amps. If you have a multi meter, check the draw fuse by fuse and see if you can isolate it down to a single fuse. Internal fuse in meter usually 10 amps, try not to blow it. Make sure no dash cams and cell chargers are being left plugged in. There is a red flashing led on dash cluster that will always be on when security is armed, on my model. But my 2014 has no dodge sign showing in cluster. Good luck with the search. Heating issues are often tied to small actuator switches that move blender door and other flaps in dash. There are posts on this site about that. Always check glycol level first when there is intermittent heating issues, flaky thermostat can also cause type of problem.
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So I’m assuming this is a wireless signal going to a transmitter, no rca video cable being fished to front of car. Curious what brand of camera and from where? I would like to do this because having it done seems to be very pricy. Dash screen needs to be activated for the input signal from camera, or is it plug and play. 8.4 or 4.3 screen ?
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Fix, who said anything about fix. Maybe it’s just a Russian thing, love Japlopnik site sometimes. https://jalopnik.com/those-crazy-russian-bastards-built-both-the-loudest-and-1842529472
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Engine Sputter after Crankshaft Position Sensor Changed
John/Horace replied to keithisjonesn's topic in Engine & Transmission
That’s great news it’s fixed. I use that same stuff on both my vehicles on the throttle body intake normally once a year. I’ve seen the same symptoms cleared by cleaning the mass air flow sensor. But you don’t have one, 2.4 is a map sensor design. Thanks for update, that’s how we all learn. Stay safe. -
Engine Sputter after Crankshaft Position Sensor Changed
John/Horace replied to keithisjonesn's topic in Engine & Transmission
Because crank cps code is still coming back I think it is the primary problem. It could be causing the cyclinder misfire when there isn’t really another problem. If you want to avoid throwing another part at it you could trouble shoot more. Mark the coil on cyclinder #1 then move it to cyclinder #2; clear code and drive car; if it comes back to #1 examine plug. Some electrical problems only visible on an osciliscope, mechanics don’t have these, more of an electronics tec thing. Cps seems to be an issue with the 2.4 at fairly low milage. My daughter in law just had an issue with her 2012 at 60k miles or 100k kilometres. She is 5 hrs away, local dealer decent so they changed it out. No further issues. Let us know if you figure it out. -
Engine Sputter after Crankshaft Position Sensor Changed
John/Horace replied to keithisjonesn's topic in Engine & Transmission
Did mechanic check for other engine codes ? Codes good starting point even if no light on dash. How many miles on car, I believe the oem plugs on the 2.4 are copper core on some years, so 50k mile approx change interval. Was it an oem sensor. Some Tec’s believe on critical components it’s better to buy a usually more expensive factory part. But if mech showed normal signal should be ok, what was his suggestion for engine stutter? -
Fits into black plastic grommet that pushes into the sheet metal. Beside glycol reservoir, it’s mounted to indent in passenger inner fender sheet metal where the yellow dot in picture is. Stay save, I lived in Vancouver as a toddler decades ago.
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Interior lights issue
John/Horace replied to Rtlifeisthelifeforme's topic in Electrical, Battery & Charging
So if you just slide dimmer switch to top setting with car off do they come on.? They should cycle off/on using this switch manually. If so you are correct it’s something else. Check setting for passive entry under lights options in uconnect, is it checked and opening/closing door locks automatically. There are some neat options for lights on this vehicle. I also like the button on that hatch for triggering power locks. -
ABS Valves causing ignition off power draw?
John/Horace replied to acwats's topic in Electrical, Battery & Charging
Is there any stored codes.? I would scan even if there is no light on dash. Has car ever been in a large accident that was repaired? Very tricky with no drawing to trouble shoot. I would mark abs relay under hood and switch it with another identical one in box, see if still amp draw with engine off. If someone you know has a Mitchel log in there might be electrical schematics there you could print out. Maybe check main plug on abs pump under hood for signs of corrosion. Remember free advice is worth everything you pay for it. -
When someone complains about their current car being unreliable crap...it bothers me. We are spoiled in so many ways that the real junk of the past no one really remembers now. Perspective matters.
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Very simple but crude vehicle. Very slow because of heavy weight under powered engine, fuel economy not horrible. Exhaust pipes and other metal very thick so you could fix stuff your self. No catalytic converter I think was why back pressure mattered. Just a catalytic by itself could be the minimal back pressure a 4 stroke normally aspirated engine needs. Entire electrical system wired with four colors of wire. Trying to trace an issue not exactly easy to do. Tool kit from car hilarious but functional. I still have two metric wrenches from the kit. Excellent strength steel, but machining and forging very ruff. One wrench has the size stamping mixed up. Small 10 mm end says 13 and vice versa. Bad vodka day maybe.
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Seeking A Friend For The End of The World is a 2012 apocalyptic movie appropriate for our times .... and the main character played by Steve Carrell is named Dodge. I don’t know why their marketing department has missed this. Maybe too busy. Movie didn’t do well on rotten tomatoes mmm. https://www.imdb.com/title/ https://www.rottentomatoes.com/m/seeking_a_friend_for_the_end_of_the_world
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I think back pressure occasionally matters. But very rarely. I had a 1979 Russian car called a Lada , body was 20:yr old Fiat 124 design IIRCC and engine was ancient 4 cyclinder 1.5 liter VW design of some sort. People called it a Lada trouble, which it was. Exhaust broke right at exhaust manifold and I had to drive it a few days during college exams. Car lost about 50 percent of power so it strangely needed back pressure. It was a single overhead cam design. Power came back with mig welded sleeve repair. Carburetor with manual choke pull lever. There was a place for a manual hand crank to fit into front of engine crank pulley. But retrofitted canadian bumpers covered the spot where crank linkage needed to go through. Always want to drill out hole to try and hand crank the engine. Car had its own tool kit, with manual pump strong enough to actually pump up a car tire. I learned more about car repair in 12 months of ownership then I have ever learned since. To keep one on the road you needed a separate parts car. Which you could buy for $50 in 1984.
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Doesn’t appear a hemi has been transverse mounted in a production model yet. Always a first though. https://www.carthrottle.com/post/8-cars-with-front-mounted-transverse-v8-engines/
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With the ecm computer and dozens of sensors involved engine/tranny swaps are super complex projects. Wiring harness and sensor work would be epic, fabricating custom engine subframe cradle beyond backyard mechanics. Also places with annual emission testing would make getting your vehicle passed , I want to say a journey, but I used that pun last posting. So I will just say difficult.
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Sometimes it’s not the destination but the journey (good dodge pun). Waste of time a little harsh imo. Hemi in a journey sounds like a really cool idea. Might need a few shoe horns to get it to fit. Up until 2012 it’s seems there was more mechanical issues on journeys. The 3.6 V6 used since them with a 6 speed automatic has tons of power so people don’t seem motivated for more power. A hemi in a journey does have a Holden type feel to it. Maybe next madmax flick could fit one in; someone contact George Miller. Fury Road was my favourite picture in 2015.
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Spectra is an ok brand I’ve used them. Should be some kind of warranty on it. Fins can be brushed back a bit in a few spots without any issues, just looks bad. There are thin tubes atttatched to fins that carry the glycol, look for a kink in one of these. The older full copper rads were more durable than new plastic tank aluminum units . Smelling glycol after working on rad/water pump not surprising ; so many small recesses where glycol pools and sits. It can take 50 miles and several heat cycles to just burn off residual glycol from engine bay, fender skirts etc. I would borrow another pressure tester before taking anything apart. If hose rubber flattened out at connection point, shorten hose slightly so there is new sealing surface for spring clamp. Or switch to gear clamp if you suspect a drip from a weak spring clamp.
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If made up means double gear clamps, good luck. Even return line is probably 150 plus psi, and gear clamps back off over time. Rough roads and cold weather rattles stuff loose, even parts with rubber component. My 2014 line was changed two years ago under recall, it wasn’t leaking at 123k yet. The new one has a coating of fluid Film rust protectant on it.
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The pivot bar that goes inside is wider than the hole it’s going into, it extends across the inside of hole. Hate seeing China on a critical part but ....
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Manifold cobra 500:psi hose and regular splice not good enough. Hydraulic power steering can peak at a little over 2000 psi for a few seconds, google it. A hydraulic shop can do a special splice that will hold, with metal or Kevlar strand reinforced hose . Even princess auto is set up for custom fabricated pieces. Power steering pumps have built in pressure relief valves so when steering held at full lock lines don’t blow. It’s possible your pump has an issue, decent mechanic shop would have ability to measure system pressure. Rockauto has hoses and cooler and it’s not $600 for parts.
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It pivots to get it in and out, only takes a few seconds to remove. Old design around for years. No real pressure in oil pan. More of an emergency repair thing. My brothers 300 had the threads seize up at 300k on his aluminum pan. If you are comfortable using a tap, not a big deal.