Borjawil

My 8th digit is V. I have found separate head gaskets but not a full kit. Seems the right or front gasket PN pulls up kits not for my Vin code, while the rear or left does not.

Here's a pic of the kit received. 09 journey 3.5 sxt. Ive seen different kits for different Vin codes. Can anyone confirm a part number for my vehicle?

Ugh well now after swapping gaskets around I'm back where I was. But I can do the whole procedure in about 6hrs now. So that's neat. Just had surgery so down for a few days or so, but yea, I'm leaning towards the incorrect gaskets. No way it ran before and now there's no compression in the rear three. I'm also certain the rear and front cams can't swap around/pulleys can't swap? Didn't remove the cams so that's not a worry, but maybe pulleys?

Heres the orientation. Note the small and large circles next to the coolant passages on the outsides. My gaskets didnt have a corner cut either. But looking at the missing or added small holes near the bigger oblong passages helped me sort it out.

remember that one time when head gaskets go on a specific side, but can fit on either side properly, but they dont have a side that says "UP" or "LEFT RIGHT"? Yea, I did that. thanks for coming along on the ride. Lets hope thats the issue and not something else.

Decided to retorque the head bolts and see if there was any change. no compression. Decided to leave the rocker bolts loose so that all valves are closed, and i still have no compression. Needle doesnt even move. Correct me if im wrong, but with valves closed there has to be a build up of compression correct? Leads me to believe ever the head isnt seated correctly some how or theres valve damage. Going to go ahead and pull the head and see whats going on. Feel free to chime in with your .02

Set timing/belt, tightened tensioner, rotated the crank twice, and timing was on point. Tightened rocker bolts and put everything together but serpentine and intake. Tested rear middle cylinder and got 0 compression. Said fuck it and put it all together. Fired on the first or second crank for about a second, then died. Rattling sound like valve or a dead cylinder when it did fire. Decided to test front 3 at that point and got 75, 95-100, 75 on the front. No gas pedal, didnt disable fuel pump, tested before this tear down with and without all plugs in. Tested rear with all plugs in this time, and fronts with all 3 out. At this point Im thinking of just swapping the engine out unless someones has any ideas. Id hate to check the timing again to find it set correctly and that would lead me to believe the head isnt seat, damaged, etc. At a loss, i could swap the rear head as well, but with no guarantee thats the issue i feel like ill be spinning my wheels. Just not the ones i want to.

Apparently my rear cam was off a tooth. Possible the timing being off allowed the valves to be open thus no compression? Would it be wise to adjust the timing and run it?

Sorry for the multiple posts, read above as well as this one. Reading through I realize that the head gaskets go a certain way up. I matched up the ports correctly but possibly they were upside down? Don't think it would account for no compression, but figured I'd clarify. Gaskets didn't say, bit they did have rivets in them if that helps. Head of rivet goes up?

Just did this on an 09 and about to re do it as I don't have compression on one side of the engine, but that's another story. I have yet to do the write up but will post soon. Pretty simple. Torque wrench, 3/8 and 1/4 ratchets. 8, 10, 13, 15, 16, and I believe an 18 and/or 19mm socket (shallow and deep for all is helpful along with 1"-8" extensions. Youll need 10, 13, and 15 wrenches. Pliers for hose clamps. And depending on your approach to the cams a 31 or 34mm wrench or the special holding tool. If you can weld or have a drill it's easy to make. Basically a two post spanner wrench. Pm me if you'd like pics/video Oh and a 6 point "E" type socket. E30? I'd have to check, but a 12point 3/8 socket works well too.

At this point I have to ask if it would be easier to swap in another engine? I have a spare I bought as I was told this one was seized. Seems to me it's less work, but I haven't done it before on this vehicle.

Front 3 driver to passenger is 80ish, 100, 80ish. Back 3 are 0. Ideas? I've begin tearing down again to double check timing, but I'm pretty sure timing won't affect compression?

Well looks like i have fuel and spark and about 80-90 psi on the front 3 cylinders. havent removed the intake to test the rear ones.

Tried gas in cylinder and nothing. Thought it smelled like fuel beforehand so I checked another plug, and smelled like gas and looked wet as well. How do I check I'm getting spark? I figured if I am getting spark it could be timing some how, but I'm leaning towards no spark at this point.

Ill try the gas directly into cylinder(s). Double checked connections and I did check the timing once belt was reinstalled.

Just replaced the head gaskets. Car turns over but wont fire. No DTCs. New plugs. fuse and relay to fuel pump are good. What should I check next? Figured Id spray some starting fluid in the intake tube and see if I can get it to fire. Any other ideas?

Also received loctite and grey hi temp gasket sealer in the kit, but as far as I can see no gaskets previously had sealer on them. If there are any that require it let me know!

Good info. So I'm assuming play without the plate on is ok. Which leads me to my next question. My gasket kit didn't come with the thrust plate gaskets. I have cork and the blue paper gasket rolls to make gaskets. Preference or advice on using either? I figure the blue is denser and likely more suitable to the high heat location. And I'm assuming thickness plays a role so the plate is effectively doing its job. And a question the DLC coating. Since the cam rests against the raised portion of the plate, how crucial is the DLC coating? Some around the edges was removed when I was removing the old gasket. also ran into a weird situation with the head bolts. New head bolts with my kit, torque in stages to 65?ft/lbs then another 90 degrees. I'm aware of what it feels like to have a bolt tightened snug and like it won't turn more without the use of a longer handle/bar to get a bit more. Tightened all the bolts in sequence to 65. Then rechecked the 65. Then another 90 degrees. Manual states after the 90 degrees the ft pounds should be 90?ft/lbs plus or to replace the bolt. I had 2 or 3 bolts that I could keep turning with what felt like the resistance of 65 ft lbs and never really got that bottomed out resistance feeling. Did the 90 degrees on them and then another 1/4 or so to make sure. Didn't want to push it in case of stripping one out. Not sure if my head just wasn't seated fully, shitty bolts, or what.

Took the pulleys off an reinstalled, went back on easily this time. As for cam movement - facing the enging, left side is timing gear pulleys, right side is cam thrust plates. Cam and pulleys installed. No rocker assemblies. Thrust plates not on. I can push and pull on the timing gear pulleys (passenger side to driver side or left to right) and get movement. So the end of the cam on the thrust plate side is flush to the head or sticks out of the head. Just learned that its called a thrust plate, and assuming with this name that is holds the cam laterally in place. I also see its coated with...idk the name for it but the black coating for wear that some lifters are coated with to slow/prevent wear on cam lobes.

09 3.5l Following a head gasket swap I have installed and torqued the heads, and I am installing the cam pulleys. While they came off by hand, it seems they don't want to slide fully on more than catching the key on the cam slot. Having it lined up like this, I tighten the bolts to about 50-60ft lbs (manual says 70 and then 90 degrees). I can still move the cam side to side about 1/4". This is with the 3 bolt backing plate off. Is this normal?

09 3.5l Following a head gasket swap I have installed and torqued the heads, and I am installing the cam pulleys. While they came off by hand, it seems they don't want to slide fully on more than catching the key on the cam slot. Having it lined up like this, I tighten the bolts to about 50-60ft lbs (manual says 70 and then 90 degrees). I can still move the cam side to side about 1/4". This is with the 3 bolt backing plate off. Is this normal?

Im on to reassembly and having some issues with my cam bolts. 1) should the cam covers on the drivers side be on when tightening the center cam bolt? Assuming not since theres a tool made to hold that end, although the manual says to hold the bif nut on the pulley while tightening the 18mm center bolt. 2) Should the pulley easily go on to the cam? came off pretty easy but seems to have some issues go on by hand. I can catch the key in the pulley on the cam by applying pressure on the face of pulley and end of cam. Once this was done i began tightening the center bolt to basically press the pulley on. Manual states 70ft lbs plus 1/4 turn. When at about 60ish ft lbs and the bolt is tight, i am able to move the cam left to right about a 1/4" as if the pulley isnt fully seated. Would make sense that the play isnt ok, however the plate that covers the end of the cam would keep it in place. 3) I have a lot of extra seals/gaskets in my head gasket kit 2 different sets of round seals like youd see on the engine casing for the ends of the crank, or a motorcycle wheel hub seal. any kits or pictures dictating what each seal would be?

About to remove the heads but want to make sure I got things done correctly. Used the free manual on this site under the maintenance forum for the 09 DJ, awful ads and loading each page (I ended up using alldatas site and paying and it's the same thing but easier to navigate). I'll be making a write up best I can. Pretty simple procedure, but the directions from the manual tend to lack information and skip around to different sections. I've read there's a locking pin and/or bolt for the crank and cams. Didn't see either of these options necessarily though there was a thread hole on the crank gear for the belt. At this point I'd like to clear that up for my knowledge. After removing the crank pulley/dampener you're able to remove the rear timing belt cover. There's a nub/pointer on the gear edge. I aligned this with the "TDC" molded pointer and the knotches on the cam gears aligned with knotches on the outer casting the covers come off of. Assuming this is tdc. At this point I removed the rocker assemblies and then the head bolts. There are covers for the cams on the driver side I removed to slide the cams out of these covers. at this point do I remove the heads? Belt and cam gears removed. Noticed the front cam bolt that is about a foot long can be removed, but the rear there's no way. Do i slide the rear cam to the driver side, lift the head from the driver side, and slide the head the driver side direction to get off the bolt? am I missing anything or other things I should make sure are aligned?

Thanks for the helpful info. On my Jetta TDI there is a bolt through the center of belt sprocket to cam, and 3 around that in slotted holes. Allows for adjusting timing. Wasn't sure if that was the case. But yes always mark the sprocket, cam, engine, belt, etc. To get the right tooth lined up. Seems pretty straight forward. Going to tackle it this weekend.

One other questions for those knowledgeable on rebuilds. I'm more versed with specific engines and there will always be mixed opinions. I usually use koppercote on my head gaskets before install. Not required on stock builds, but some times recommended. Opinions on using it for this engines head gaskets? What about using a sealant on the intake or other gaskets? I believe the kit comes with a (ceramic? Grey in color?) Sealant. Again in my experience most gaskets that are paper but have rubber seal on them near the actual opening of the part I don't use a sealant and have heard/read not to. Hell, most just paper/cork gaskets sealant isn't required or recommended. Just looking for opinions and experience. Do it right the first time ya know?