5rebel9

A pressure test of the cooling system would be a good start, and also test the radiator cap {most pressure testers can also check the cap to be sure it is functioning properly also}. Note the thermostat housing {mounted on the transmission end of the cylinder head} is prone to leak as it is PLASTIC with O-ring seal. From your report, I would question that the higher opening temp thermostat is sticking. The car uses TWO different temp thermostats in that housing I speak of and I would suggest your friends shop replace both of them IF they find NO LEAKS. IF you had a bad head gasket it would run poorly and be bowing out coolant and smoke out the exhaust...In short wording, you would see and know something MAJOR like that was happening. High digital temp readings you post of can be from a sticking shut 2nd T-stat, since you post that the temp gage comes back down some with interior heat turned on when the temp gets that high. Good luck and keep in touch!

May all your cars' problems be as easy as a bad fob battery! Glad you found the problem and another fob battery fixed things.

Check for broken wire in the rubber boot between rear hatch and body of the car. Quite common on our DJ's to do such and NOT blow a fuse.

Check the battery sensor on the negative post of the battery and fuse F179 {probably in the inside the car fuse panel}. most likely it is a badly corroded connection as the 2 wire plug on the battery sensor is quite small gage wiring. You may need to replace the whole sensor unit and the harness plug end. Good luck and let us know what you find!

IF that is a picture of your car, YES that is the fusible link wire that is blown and must be replaced.There are replacement fusible link wires and some even have ones that incorporate a blade fuse instead of fusible link wire{it is NOT regular wire}. Time for you to do some "googleing" on the internet.

You will be OKAY. There is a filter screen on the pickup and that small part should NOT block or get sucked into the fuel pump in any way. BE MORE CAREFUL next time......LOL

Good to hear that you decided to "tackle" the job and seems to have worked out well for you! BUT for your 2 posted error codes {1} go back in and recheck crank and cam timing marks {2} may have to do cam sensor and crank sensor "relearn", which requires a high end scanner

Engine size would be most helpful to post, the 2 choices in the NA market each have their own quirks. CEL on? full coolant and not boiling out????

Brake light switch mis positioned under the dash at foot pedal?

Well, after a shop has checked it over like you post. Drive it AND monitor for misfiring coming back and CEL AND monitor interior heat quality{low coolant will cause low heat} drive the car as normal and keep a check on fluid levels under the hood.

SUGGESTION: POST the codes you came up with and how many miles on the car.Then we have information to work with. Normally pressure will be in the 80-90 psi range at start up and drop to 30-40 psi after warmed up.

Well, your "old" VW and many more vehicles are so equipped and are the "NEW" technology. IF you ran vehicles with as many miles/years as the one I do, when need comes to replace components you would probably scream at the price of those type calipers. Yes the Pacifica and Chrysler/Dodge minivans also went to the electric parking brake around 2017 Saab used the manual screw in pistons for parking brake use way back in the early 80's with the 99 model.....don't ask me how I know....LOL !

Just asking on why your thought on the subject. using makeshift or the proper tool? MANY cars with incorporated parking brake in the rear caliper have been around for at least 20 years now. And all have different "variations" of size pin/slots to engage the caliper pistons. Sure beats trying to get at traditional seperate under the disc hub parking brake shoes.....especially in "the rustbelt" Northeast!

Being the 4 cyl. the easiest way is to pull the spark plugs again and compare #2 plug to the other 3 looking for tip damage or clean wash compared to slight darkening of the others. I learned this "trick" WAY BACK in my YOUTH. IF all look the same, then you may have a coil going out and a stuck shut T-stat. I would suggest replacing BOTH stats at same time.

For the REAR calipers, that is correct. slight pressure and turn in.