5rebel9

So what kind of suggestions to do? As to what is actually causing the problem or actions with the dealer you used? YES there are a number of multi wire connectors that could have lost good constant connection or even the antenna cable connection to the radio/nav unit. ALL involve some minor dashboard disassembly{time} to get to and INSPECT to find {pinpoint} the problem. Yours is now a 10 year old car and you stated it did not work for 5 years. In my day as an auto tech and having worked for 2 different multi brand dealers, Service departments tend to not want to work on "older"{out of warranty} vehicles. They have a hard enough time keeping techs trained to current and new vehicle systems. YES you would be cheaper off buying a stand alone GPS {garmin} or using your "smart?" phone for your navigation needs. OR try a different Dealership.

Sorry to hear of your "conundrum" with this particular problem. Unfortunately, none of the 4 DJ's in my "stable" has NAV and have shown no problems with "UCONNECT" for my lesser optioned rides. My "project" '13 with HFM/phone has a bad module that I plan to replace come warm weather, this module is a known "weak spot", but I don't think it is involved with NAV. I would suspect though that your actual problem MAY be in the actual radio unit itself, as what is referred to as the RB5 type that houses the NAV option. Overall the electronics in these and most all cars is way above the "common man" in diagnosing and pinpointing these kind of "troubles". Gone are the days of straight wiring and now are chips and circuit boards of tiny size. YES dealers charge a horrendous labor rate and the actual tech makes a pittance of that for his work...so do it as quick and easy as possible...just make $$$$$ Welcome to the forum and good luck getting your ride "cured", keep us informed how this goes for you!

YES, if not sure of your abilities that is the right thing to do. It would be a good move to offer the info of checking the flex plate first and then broach the possibility of bad rocker arm/camshaft. IF either of those are the culprit, be prepared for a rather costly {@ $1500.}repair GOOD LUCK and PLEASE keep us informed.

YES, NOW is the time to do the VISUAL INSPECTION for a cracked flexplate. It is the LEAST COSTLY thing to pinpoint the source of noise to be able to EFFECTIVELY fix the noise problem as I posted of.

The next step, and I did not post before due to parts and MUCH LABOR would be to check for bad rocker arm/wiped out camshaft lobe. This is labor intensive, as upper manifold and valve covers need to be removed and visually inspected.Again, there are many youtube videos to help you along about the subject. A/C compressor or clt0utch is EXPENSIVE, so do your best to LOCATE the source of noise BEFORE spending more $$$ changing parts.

OK, due to the year of vehicle, you probably did NOT "waste" money replacing those parts. BUT I would get the front end up in the air and go underneath and check for a cracked flex plate/ flywheel. This is a visual inspection with engine off and rotating the crankshaft with socket and ratchet from the pulley bolt on the pass. end. There may be a small inspection plate to remove from the trans. bell housing to see the flex plate and also should be numerous youtube videos about the flex plate to give you some guidance about the situation. ALL auto trans 3.6 Dodge/ Chryslers would be the same design and procedures{ DJ. Caravan, Town&Country. As I said before, locating by sound to particular area is rather difficult for pinpointing the source IF the flexplate is cracked. and you say that the A/C seems to work fine. NO MORE parts chucking, do a good visual inspection.

Yes, good points to check posted by member Dean H. BUT if all that checks out OK, you will want to move further acroos the motor and check for a cracked/breaking flex plate{flywheel}. I had this happen on my '14 and a few others here have posted of same situation. Depending on how bad the crack is determines just how bad the noise it will make is. NOT an easy item to diagnose from sound alone and requires a good "visual" inspection from underneath the car here the trans. bolts up to the engine.

NOPE. Can't DIAGNOSE it, but can give an educated GUESS for you....... From the noise change on A/C engagement, I'd be looking into the A/C compressor clutch pulley or the compressor itself. Good Luck and keep us posted.

OK, I was just trying to "cover" common possibilities as you did not post that you got it to start and by what condition. All in all, it may be a wise move to have a battery load test done at a parts store or shop{usually free} just to be sure as once again no posted info as to battery age. Also if still the original starter, by age it is getting old and could be drawing more amps to kick over than your battery is capable of when hot. Keep us posted!

Considering the age of the car, and was just driven to get fuel....as long as it had interior power the battery should be OIK. I would also suspect the shift{gear sensor} may not be fully in park position due to possible shift cable end bushing wear. Try with key in run position of moving the shift lever through the gears and end in park or neutral and then try "cranking" it over.

Welcome to the forum, too bad about your previous DJ. BUT sorry, I'm no audiophile to help you out with your current project.

I would start by checking the push on small wire connector on the starter solenoid of the starter. If the plastic cover end is still there, take it off and check for expanded or deteriorated metal female end inside of that cover.

Strange for such a year and even with that kind of miles on it. Sounds t me from your description that there must be a vacuum leak from one of the hoses near the TB or the seal ing "O" ring itself. I've got 3 3.6 older and all with pushing 200K miles and not had that problem with RPM's or a faulty TB. Power brake vacuum source is an electrical powered pump, don't see the posted connection you speak of to control the RPM's. Please post back what you find, and good luck!

Expensive enough for awhile, glad it has worked out for you. Yes, there is a LOT of labor involved to pull the trans. on these cars. BUT same or more work for many other brands of cars these days.

probably got cleared out by work he had already done or his probable basic scanner and will need a high end scanner to get at codes under "history" or "permanent" codes.