5rebel9

It looks like my DJ stable will be SHRINKING DOWN this early summer. I have a buyer for the 4 cyl. project car and I will be trading my '14 to help get a 2014 Grand Caravan {3.6} wheelchair van to be able to take my father out of the nursing home for Dr. appointments and short afternoon "day trips" along with my mother as their chaufer . Both are going crazy being stuck inside the facility and need time "out and about" to relieve "stresses". Wheelchair vans do not come cheap, but I can get this one through my friend for $10k. and well worth that price. Of course sales tax and registering/insurance is on top of that figure to deal with. I will be the registered owner, even though funds of my parents will be used in this purchase, long story, but I have siblings that can't keep up proper maint. or knowledge of WHEN to get a car in for repairs. SO my vehicle, my say how and who might also use it for transporting my father BESIDES ME. and when they "pass", I will have SOMETHING to remember them by. I will keep you all "posted" about the van, and will still have the wifes '13rt Journey. My son says he's going to try for 2 more years with his '11 Journey.

I can't say my little "trick" with new/rebuilt REAR calipers will fix this type of problem, BUT.... What I do when installing such calipers is to apply /release the parking brake a couple of times BEFORE bleeding the caliper. This moves the piston manually{not hydraulically} from being "bottomed out in the caliper , allowing more fluid in. With 3 of these cars, I've not had this soft/low pedal situation show up yet and I've done brakes on all of them. I also do the same when just doing pads/rotors after retracting the pistons. Also watch out for stuck caliper slide pins, another common "quirk".

A lot of the diagnostic steps for your P0750 code and P0770 code are exactly what I suggested. Your latest posting of codes after replacing the alternator the previous time were most likely charging system codes.

I don't have a direct answer fix to your code problem, BUT........ When the battery totally died the 2x you had to charge i up to get home, did it "die" while at speed? It could have damaged the trans and thus the codes and stuck in 2nd gear. I would start by checking trans oil level and COLOR with the dipstick the 4 bangers should have for the trans. and if low or "burnt color/smell, drop the trans pan and look for debris. This situation does not sound like an electrical problem for the trans, but a problem of the trans brought on by loss of engine running which is the supply of rotation for the torque converter and oil pump of the automatic trans. Most ALL auto trans cars say NOT to tow/coast at more than 30mph and for ONLY SHORT DISTANCES. If you "coasted down to a stop with it still in gear, well I would fear for trans damage for you in that situation. GOOD LUCK and keep us posted, AND I hope my thoughts are not the case for you.

There are a number of youtube videos on how to diagnose and repair for those particular codes, try looking at some to help you along. You post of ALL NEW seniors, what BRAND? Bosch O2 sensors are not well liked by the Dodge engines/computers, NTK is OE supplier for all sensors to Dodge and work the best, aftermarket brands seem to have troubles. I do wonder about the MAP sensor , a prime unit in fuel ratio control, or even a bad seal gasket on the upper and lower intakes. Did YOU install those or did the "crate motor come assembled with them in place? Keep in touch with us PLEASE.

So what kind of suggestions to do? As to what is actually causing the problem or actions with the dealer you used? YES there are a number of multi wire connectors that could have lost good constant connection or even the antenna cable connection to the radio/nav unit. ALL involve some minor dashboard disassembly{time} to get to and INSPECT to find {pinpoint} the problem. Yours is now a 10 year old car and you stated it did not work for 5 years. In my day as an auto tech and having worked for 2 different multi brand dealers, Service departments tend to not want to work on "older"{out of warranty} vehicles. They have a hard enough time keeping techs trained to current and new vehicle systems. YES you would be cheaper off buying a stand alone GPS {garmin} or using your "smart?" phone for your navigation needs. OR try a different Dealership.

Sorry to hear of your "conundrum" with this particular problem. Unfortunately, none of the 4 DJ's in my "stable" has NAV and have shown no problems with "UCONNECT" for my lesser optioned rides. My "project" '13 with HFM/phone has a bad module that I plan to replace come warm weather, this module is a known "weak spot", but I don't think it is involved with NAV. I would suspect though that your actual problem MAY be in the actual radio unit itself, as what is referred to as the RB5 type that houses the NAV option. Overall the electronics in these and most all cars is way above the "common man" in diagnosing and pinpointing these kind of "troubles". Gone are the days of straight wiring and now are chips and circuit boards of tiny size. YES dealers charge a horrendous labor rate and the actual tech makes a pittance of that for his work...so do it as quick and easy as possible...just make $$$$$ Welcome to the forum and good luck getting your ride "cured", keep us informed how this goes for you!

YES, if not sure of your abilities that is the right thing to do. It would be a good move to offer the info of checking the flex plate first and then broach the possibility of bad rocker arm/camshaft. IF either of those are the culprit, be prepared for a rather costly {@ $1500.}repair GOOD LUCK and PLEASE keep us informed.

YES, NOW is the time to do the VISUAL INSPECTION for a cracked flexplate. It is the LEAST COSTLY thing to pinpoint the source of noise to be able to EFFECTIVELY fix the noise problem as I posted of.

The next step, and I did not post before due to parts and MUCH LABOR would be to check for bad rocker arm/wiped out camshaft lobe. This is labor intensive, as upper manifold and valve covers need to be removed and visually inspected.Again, there are many youtube videos to help you along about the subject. A/C compressor or clt0utch is EXPENSIVE, so do your best to LOCATE the source of noise BEFORE spending more $$$ changing parts.

OK, due to the year of vehicle, you probably did NOT "waste" money replacing those parts. BUT I would get the front end up in the air and go underneath and check for a cracked flex plate/ flywheel. This is a visual inspection with engine off and rotating the crankshaft with socket and ratchet from the pulley bolt on the pass. end. There may be a small inspection plate to remove from the trans. bell housing to see the flex plate and also should be numerous youtube videos about the flex plate to give you some guidance about the situation. ALL auto trans 3.6 Dodge/ Chryslers would be the same design and procedures{ DJ. Caravan, Town&Country. As I said before, locating by sound to particular area is rather difficult for pinpointing the source IF the flexplate is cracked. and you say that the A/C seems to work fine. NO MORE parts chucking, do a good visual inspection.

Yes, good points to check posted by member Dean H. BUT if all that checks out OK, you will want to move further acroos the motor and check for a cracked/breaking flex plate{flywheel}. I had this happen on my '14 and a few others here have posted of same situation. Depending on how bad the crack is determines just how bad the noise it will make is. NOT an easy item to diagnose from sound alone and requires a good "visual" inspection from underneath the car here the trans. bolts up to the engine.

NOPE. Can't DIAGNOSE it, but can give an educated GUESS for you....... From the noise change on A/C engagement, I'd be looking into the A/C compressor clutch pulley or the compressor itself. Good Luck and keep us posted.

OK, I was just trying to "cover" common possibilities as you did not post that you got it to start and by what condition. All in all, it may be a wise move to have a battery load test done at a parts store or shop{usually free} just to be sure as once again no posted info as to battery age. Also if still the original starter, by age it is getting old and could be drawing more amps to kick over than your battery is capable of when hot. Keep us posted!

Considering the age of the car, and was just driven to get fuel....as long as it had interior power the battery should be OIK. I would also suspect the shift{gear sensor} may not be fully in park position due to possible shift cable end bushing wear. Try with key in run position of moving the shift lever through the gears and end in park or neutral and then try "cranking" it over.

Welcome to the forum, too bad about your previous DJ. BUT sorry, I'm no audiophile to help you out with your current project.

I would start by checking the push on small wire connector on the starter solenoid of the starter. If the plastic cover end is still there, take it off and check for expanded or deteriorated metal female end inside of that cover.

Strange for such a year and even with that kind of miles on it. Sounds t me from your description that there must be a vacuum leak from one of the hoses near the TB or the seal ing "O" ring itself. I've got 3 3.6 older and all with pushing 200K miles and not had that problem with RPM's or a faulty TB. Power brake vacuum source is an electrical powered pump, don't see the posted connection you speak of to control the RPM's. Please post back what you find, and good luck!

Expensive enough for awhile, glad it has worked out for you. Yes, there is a LOT of labor involved to pull the trans. on these cars. BUT same or more work for many other brands of cars these days.

probably got cleared out by work he had already done or his probable basic scanner and will need a high end scanner to get at codes under "history" or "permanent" codes.

Such a newer vehicle, what kind of maint. had been done PRIOR to this event? Had you just gotten fuel and possibly water? No crank and red dot flashing means anti theft system has activated. Try disconnecting power and ground from the TIPM and neg jumper post for 10 to 15 minutes, reresecure and give it a try. you did not say, but is there sufficient oil and coolant levels?

Check engine light on when driving> There is a code for coolant UNDER parameters. Same as your minivan. BUT as posted already 1.5 mile drive, especially if not above 30mph is NOT much work for the motor to develop heat, particularly if you are getting -12*f temps. I',m from South of Buffalo,NY and even at +15*f it takes some distance and at speeds above 40mph to get heat going. does the DJ have remote start? try using it before just getting in and going, Remote start has a duration cycle of 7 minutes run time. My wife and I do that most all the time in winter weather. Also do not have interior fan on full speed until you do get heat, the cold air force will just make it feel colder.

Welcome aboard! I drove a number of Caravans and T&C"s for the better part of 25 year starting with an 87 and last ones were '04's I loved the early ones from '03-04. Now I have 3 3.6awd DJ's on the road right now and a fourth 4 cyl. model to bring back up to "snuff" to resell Looking forward to seeing you post up here on the forum!

WELL SAID! Had that "situation" with the wife's 13 ! NO JOY when that part decides to "fizzle"!

Yeah, I think we ALL got the brunt of WINTER again today. Some snow overnight then freezing rain and wind then more snow and wind and at 7:30 pm temps at 18*f Just stayed home today and only shoveled off the slop from our sidewalks. My snowblower would not have stood a chance throwing the SLOP, it was the consistency of a slush puppy drink.