5rebel9

Well then, the worst that could happen on opening the switch is that it gets "goofed up" and would require a new replacement. The common factor I've found of switch buttons is the metal disc losses proper shape, not allowing contact to the circuit board when pressed on whatever function button. Be careful when reassembling after "tweaking" those discs, most all of these switches have a white plastic tape cover to keep the pieces oriented. Somewhere in one of my many posts here, I described this process.{but NO PICTURES}. The EVIC functions tend to fail in the same way as the cruise control , sorry I did not make the point abundantly clear. Good Luck and let us know how you do with yours.

So just what kind of help are you looking for about this? YES, just as has been posted many times about the cruise control switch on the right side of the steering wheel.... they tend to fail. I've got 4 DJ's and have replaced/repaired both sides on most of them. There are youtube videos on how to replace them, and would be better understood than giving written steps on how to do it. I have a long auto tech background and i've been able to take the switches apart and clean/adjust the contacts for the functions and then reinstall the switch{s}, saving buying a new unit. Note, this is not for a novice or "fumbly fingered" type person.

Yes, they ALL do that. it is possible that the interior dimmer control may be going bad causing "dimming out" of both screens as the OP stated as his problem concern. The way he posted{upon re reading his post} leaves me thinking his concern is only during backup camera mode, and thus is more likely to be a camera in the rear hatch problem. I've read of many backup camera concerns here on the forum....of the 4 DJ's in my care NONE has the backup camera feature.

Although not specifically stated, I take it this is a 3.6 engined AWD Journey? You stated you are in the Northeast region of the USA, where the heck do you get to go that fast at 70 - 80 mph? You may want to inspect the front and rear motor mounts and the front and rear sub frame bushings. Sounds like you've already done or checked about all else that can cause such a vibration.

For the most part on an auto forum members try and help with suggestions to fix a problem, not how to deal with dealers on a problem concern. If you do not wish to do your own work, talk to your chosen dealer service manager about the concern {be sure to give specifics of the concern} and they can tell you what they would check and CHARGE to remedy the situation. Good luck to you in taking care of your concern and please report back your results.

I agree with member 2late4u. But being 12 years old now, I would also suspect a poor ground connection in the wiring for those panels. Just where is a case for a good wiring schematic and patience in locating it in the vehicle. Grounds are just as important as power.

Clicking noise as you described when it happens is most likely a broken RECIRCULATION /door actuator. NOT LIKELY the cause of parasitic drain. The actuator is one of the easiest to change and many youtube videos about doing it. How old is the battery, and when were the cable ends last cleaned for both positive and negative at battery and the outside fuse panel and grounds at the strut tower????? A good FULL electrical system code scan would be a grat thing to have done to help find the source of your cars problems.

Y1234 refrigerant system...Quite possible a small leak in the A/C system or slight possibility that pass blend door actuator is not working. It works the same for A/C and normal HEAT/ cool. IF those function well for pass heat change, then I'd say A/C system leak, and probably a small leajk at that due to drivers side seeming good, indicating low refrigerant.

Also don't rule out the possibility of a bad roller tip on the rocker arm. My shop owner friend just had a 3.6 come in with randomly appearing same codes, yet all checked out until he pulled that sides valve cover and camshaft and removed the offending cylinders rocker arms and found one that was missing a couple of its needle bearings causing lack of valve opening/closing. They installed new rocker arms as thankfully the camshaft lobes had not been damaged, and all was good again. PROPER tools for the job are a MUST.

Yes it can....BUT Best done on a lift and a TWO PERSON job to remove and align things on reassembly. NOT FOR A NOVCE without good shop equipment.

Yeah, so since screen works with the aftermarket SCREEN . BUT I've read that some don't work well with temp controls. The SCREEN and actual radio from factory are seperate units and why I was trying to get to to SCREEN having failed on the original FACTORY screen. Please get that high end scanner done and check for codes. I would also reinstall ALL factory components and do the scan again. The scrreen and actual radio are not that hard to do, I've pulled and reinstalled a number of times with my stable of DJ's.

Which size engine, the 4 cyl. or V6? Each has their own fault possibilities to your problem.

Parts cannon wise, I would do the control PANEL{not the module} FIRST. Much more common failure component and much easier to replace. Do you have auto temp control or manual adjust control for your DJ?

OK, so maybe I should also have asked. Was the 8.4 SCREEN factory or aftermarket???? And yes the heat control{along with fan and radio} panel can go bad only on partial areas. But not being hooked up at all will cause problems.

I'm kind of lost with your postings. This is the big screen{8.4"} display and everything works in ACC mode of PTS? Does the screen totally black out and no display/ function in run mode? Do the manual controls work although not being displayed? I'd think there is another fuse for power in run mode verses acc mode There are factory service manuals posted on the site here, look it up and find a schematic for radio/information unit. I've heard of the big screen unit going bad and going blank.whereby you can't see or make changes thru the big touchscreen. A few more specifics of situation would be most helpful.... keep in touch.

This one is done by ElDorado National out in Kansas and is from Annapolis, Maryland. It is a basic van with rear heat/A/c for features beyond total basic Grand Caravan. Raised body with lowered floor, manual side load ramp that is very low angle incline and very light to lower/raise. Only thing to detract is that it is WHITE in color, I'm not a fan of white! BUT just as with my Lucerne, due to great purchase price, i'm not complaining. My friend gave me first "dibs" and price, I knew and he also said he could easily sell it for $15 - $16K.

It looks like my DJ stable will be SHRINKING DOWN this early summer. I have a buyer for the 4 cyl. project car and I will be trading my '14 to help get a 2014 Grand Caravan {3.6} wheelchair van to be able to take my father out of the nursing home for Dr. appointments and short afternoon "day trips" along with my mother as their chaufer . Both are going crazy being stuck inside the facility and need time "out and about" to relieve "stresses". Wheelchair vans do not come cheap, but I can get this one through my friend for $10k. and well worth that price. Of course sales tax and registering/insurance is on top of that figure to deal with. I will be the registered owner, even though funds of my parents will be used in this purchase, long story, but I have siblings that can't keep up proper maint. or knowledge of WHEN to get a car in for repairs. SO my vehicle, my say how and who might also use it for transporting my father BESIDES ME. and when they "pass", I will have SOMETHING to remember them by. I will keep you all "posted" about the van, and will still have the wifes '13rt Journey. My son says he's going to try for 2 more years with his '11 Journey.

I can't say my little "trick" with new/rebuilt REAR calipers will fix this type of problem, BUT.... What I do when installing such calipers is to apply /release the parking brake a couple of times BEFORE bleeding the caliper. This moves the piston manually{not hydraulically} from being "bottomed out in the caliper , allowing more fluid in. With 3 of these cars, I've not had this soft/low pedal situation show up yet and I've done brakes on all of them. I also do the same when just doing pads/rotors after retracting the pistons. Also watch out for stuck caliper slide pins, another common "quirk".

A lot of the diagnostic steps for your P0750 code and P0770 code are exactly what I suggested. Your latest posting of codes after replacing the alternator the previous time were most likely charging system codes.

I don't have a direct answer fix to your code problem, BUT........ When the battery totally died the 2x you had to charge i up to get home, did it "die" while at speed? It could have damaged the trans and thus the codes and stuck in 2nd gear. I would start by checking trans oil level and COLOR with the dipstick the 4 bangers should have for the trans. and if low or "burnt color/smell, drop the trans pan and look for debris. This situation does not sound like an electrical problem for the trans, but a problem of the trans brought on by loss of engine running which is the supply of rotation for the torque converter and oil pump of the automatic trans. Most ALL auto trans cars say NOT to tow/coast at more than 30mph and for ONLY SHORT DISTANCES. If you "coasted down to a stop with it still in gear, well I would fear for trans damage for you in that situation. GOOD LUCK and keep us posted, AND I hope my thoughts are not the case for you.

There are a number of youtube videos on how to diagnose and repair for those particular codes, try looking at some to help you along. You post of ALL NEW seniors, what BRAND? Bosch O2 sensors are not well liked by the Dodge engines/computers, NTK is OE supplier for all sensors to Dodge and work the best, aftermarket brands seem to have troubles. I do wonder about the MAP sensor , a prime unit in fuel ratio control, or even a bad seal gasket on the upper and lower intakes. Did YOU install those or did the "crate motor come assembled with them in place? Keep in touch with us PLEASE.

So what kind of suggestions to do? As to what is actually causing the problem or actions with the dealer you used? YES there are a number of multi wire connectors that could have lost good constant connection or even the antenna cable connection to the radio/nav unit. ALL involve some minor dashboard disassembly{time} to get to and INSPECT to find {pinpoint} the problem. Yours is now a 10 year old car and you stated it did not work for 5 years. In my day as an auto tech and having worked for 2 different multi brand dealers, Service departments tend to not want to work on "older"{out of warranty} vehicles. They have a hard enough time keeping techs trained to current and new vehicle systems. YES you would be cheaper off buying a stand alone GPS {garmin} or using your "smart?" phone for your navigation needs. OR try a different Dealership.

Sorry to hear of your "conundrum" with this particular problem. Unfortunately, none of the 4 DJ's in my "stable" has NAV and have shown no problems with "UCONNECT" for my lesser optioned rides. My "project" '13 with HFM/phone has a bad module that I plan to replace come warm weather, this module is a known "weak spot", but I don't think it is involved with NAV. I would suspect though that your actual problem MAY be in the actual radio unit itself, as what is referred to as the RB5 type that houses the NAV option. Overall the electronics in these and most all cars is way above the "common man" in diagnosing and pinpointing these kind of "troubles". Gone are the days of straight wiring and now are chips and circuit boards of tiny size. YES dealers charge a horrendous labor rate and the actual tech makes a pittance of that for his work...so do it as quick and easy as possible...just make $$$$$ Welcome to the forum and good luck getting your ride "cured", keep us informed how this goes for you!

YES, if not sure of your abilities that is the right thing to do. It would be a good move to offer the info of checking the flex plate first and then broach the possibility of bad rocker arm/camshaft. IF either of those are the culprit, be prepared for a rather costly {@ $1500.}repair GOOD LUCK and PLEASE keep us informed.

YES, NOW is the time to do the VISUAL INSPECTION for a cracked flexplate. It is the LEAST COSTLY thing to pinpoint the source of noise to be able to EFFECTIVELY fix the noise problem as I posted of.