5rebel9

First of all, what was the outcome of the electrical problem you previously posted of? And now, with all pulleys disconnected from the crankshaft this would indicate possible heat shield rattling on exhaust parts{cat converters, underbody shields} OR a possible bad crank pulley OR even {and I hope not} a cracked flex plate {flywheel}. The latter is rather difficult to fully inspect due to limited viewing area . Time to have a GOOD and REPUTABLE SHOP check it out.

Just what brake work have you done, just so all here can be on the same page with you. IF you replaced the rear pads, how did you retract the caliper pistons? they have to be turned and pressed in at the same time . Try jacking up the rear end and apply the parking brake and see if the rear wheels are locking up {simulating that they are working}, IF NOT then the parking brake actions inside the caliper and piston are bad , meaning replacement calipers are in order. Those pieces inside the caliper piston also determine brake pedal height and firmness of normal brake action. This is much the same as having properly adjusted rear brake shoes on a drum brake system.

Having 3 of these 3.6 cars and all high mileage.... yes you can replace the oil pressure sensor without taking much apart. BUT it involves some "special tools" and excellent dexterity. Otherwise the upper and lower intake manifolds need to be removed and NEW gaskets used on reassembly and for a first timer , A LOT MORE than an hour of time.. There are many YOUTUBE videos of both ways to change the sensor. What I found on my '14 was there is a small screen filter on the oil pump assembly that had gunked up and caused my problem, but that deep in to get at it and high mileage that I opted for a new complete oil pump. Note : both my '13 and '14 now have the aluminum oil filter/cooler assembly on them, and my '11 still going with the original plastic filter/cooler.

From EXPERIENCE!!! Check engine oil level. My '13 cracked the oil filter/cooler housing and was gushing out the oil when running and also gave the code P06dd. Leaking oil from this part will accumulate on the top of the transmission if you open the hood and look down at the motor and and trans on drivers side. It is NOT RECOMMENDED to drive the vehicle with such a leak, could ruin the engine. I got lucky and replaced the filter/cooler assy. and oil pressure was good and code went away, no further problem. and YES on my '14 got the code and it was the oil pump assy that John/Horace referred about.

DITTO ! But let us all keep in our hearts and minds for those affected in the tragedy in New Orleans this EARLY morning

I agree with member john/Horace, but with a couple additional "observations" of the OP'a info given. A 6 year old car with that low of mileage? what is the typical driving use{short run city driving at lower speeds}? IF SO I would suspect "dirty injector{s}" or carbon build up / fuel soak on the intake valves where fuel is sprayed. Try running a can of Seafoam in the fuel tank on you next fill up. As was stated they cleaned the TB and plugs; that year should have the much longer lasting platinum plugs as original equipment, so I question the need to have replaced them. And YES the crank sensor is a known WEAK LINK with the 2.4 motor AND will cause problems WITHOUT throwing a CEL or CODE until near a "full failure" condition,like crank no start or "stalling out" while running. Aggravating for you, YES good luck and keep us informed on how things "work out" for you!

For a code to show up the actual plunger of the egr valve has to malfunction. This does NOT rule out the pipe having a hole in it that goes from the EGR valve to the exhaust manifold....and probably the cause of "loud muffler" sound.

Agreed, you can "reset" the oil change reminder at any time if not already showing. I personally go 5k miles between changes and use the trip "B" reading in the trip info page for my "reminder" on all 3 of our Journeys. Just a note to you, miles driven between changes does NOT absolve you of opening the hood and checking oil level with the dipstick!

2.4 motor uses TWO thermostats the higher temp opening "stat" may be stuck closed. that COULD be why only "overheating" {is there loss of coolant?} on long drives. I suggest changing both stats if the housing{made of plastic} is NOT leaking and is a common problem for the 2.4

JD used to be a fav. beverage, but Santa bringing me some nice firewood {instead of coal} would go very nicely at my home! It's been a cold ,wet and snowy season here since Halloween! MERRY CHRISTMAS to all!

A pressure test of the cooling system would be a good start, and also test the radiator cap {most pressure testers can also check the cap to be sure it is functioning properly also}. Note the thermostat housing {mounted on the transmission end of the cylinder head} is prone to leak as it is PLASTIC with O-ring seal. From your report, I would question that the higher opening temp thermostat is sticking. The car uses TWO different temp thermostats in that housing I speak of and I would suggest your friends shop replace both of them IF they find NO LEAKS. IF you had a bad head gasket it would run poorly and be bowing out coolant and smoke out the exhaust...In short wording, you would see and know something MAJOR like that was happening. High digital temp readings you post of can be from a sticking shut 2nd T-stat, since you post that the temp gage comes back down some with interior heat turned on when the temp gets that high. Good luck and keep in touch!

May all your cars' problems be as easy as a bad fob battery! Glad you found the problem and another fob battery fixed things.

Check for broken wire in the rubber boot between rear hatch and body of the car. Quite common on our DJ's to do such and NOT blow a fuse.

Check the battery sensor on the negative post of the battery and fuse F179 {probably in the inside the car fuse panel}. most likely it is a badly corroded connection as the 2 wire plug on the battery sensor is quite small gage wiring. You may need to replace the whole sensor unit and the harness plug end. Good luck and let us know what you find!

IF that is a picture of your car, YES that is the fusible link wire that is blown and must be replaced.There are replacement fusible link wires and some even have ones that incorporate a blade fuse instead of fusible link wire{it is NOT regular wire}. Time for you to do some "googleing" on the internet.

You will be OKAY. There is a filter screen on the pickup and that small part should NOT block or get sucked into the fuel pump in any way. BE MORE CAREFUL next time......LOL

Good to hear that you decided to "tackle" the job and seems to have worked out well for you! BUT for your 2 posted error codes {1} go back in and recheck crank and cam timing marks {2} may have to do cam sensor and crank sensor "relearn", which requires a high end scanner

Engine size would be most helpful to post, the 2 choices in the NA market each have their own quirks. CEL on? full coolant and not boiling out????

Brake light switch mis positioned under the dash at foot pedal?

Well, after a shop has checked it over like you post. Drive it AND monitor for misfiring coming back and CEL AND monitor interior heat quality{low coolant will cause low heat} drive the car as normal and keep a check on fluid levels under the hood.

SUGGESTION: POST the codes you came up with and how many miles on the car.Then we have information to work with. Normally pressure will be in the 80-90 psi range at start up and drop to 30-40 psi after warmed up.

Well, your "old" VW and many more vehicles are so equipped and are the "NEW" technology. IF you ran vehicles with as many miles/years as the one I do, when need comes to replace components you would probably scream at the price of those type calipers. Yes the Pacifica and Chrysler/Dodge minivans also went to the electric parking brake around 2017 Saab used the manual screw in pistons for parking brake use way back in the early 80's with the 99 model.....don't ask me how I know....LOL !

Just asking on why your thought on the subject. using makeshift or the proper tool? MANY cars with incorporated parking brake in the rear caliper have been around for at least 20 years now. And all have different "variations" of size pin/slots to engage the caliper pistons. Sure beats trying to get at traditional seperate under the disc hub parking brake shoes.....especially in "the rustbelt" Northeast!

Being the 4 cyl. the easiest way is to pull the spark plugs again and compare #2 plug to the other 3 looking for tip damage or clean wash compared to slight darkening of the others. I learned this "trick" WAY BACK in my YOUTH. IF all look the same, then you may have a coil going out and a stuck shut T-stat. I would suggest replacing BOTH stats at same time.

For the REAR calipers, that is correct. slight pressure and turn in.