5rebel9

The groundhogs around the states predicted an early spring, but I did not see what Wiarton Willie predicted up in the Canadian provinces. I'm just getting tired of days barely above freezing {32*f} and nights around 20*f or colder. I heat with oil fired hot water baseboard and have an airtight woodstove enclosed in an existing stone fireplace. The stove has been going 24/7 and almost 300 gal. {us} of oil, wood is getting low and heating oil is skyrocketing in price AGAIN. Believe it or not, a good 2 ft. of snow around the house helps insulate my foundation and helps on the heating costs. Although repaired and maintained, the house was built in 1848. With the lack of any real snows, like John posted of, the temps and WINDS we've had all winter and late fall are killing me. I'M MORE THAN READY FOR SPRING

Lots of laughs! Such weather for good thorough cleaning! Had 2 days last week to be worth a quick but cool wash of the '14 and '13, NO interior cleaning or such as it was only in the mid 40's ! At least they look "presentable" from a distance. WINTER seems to finally making itself known here around me, but still not a lot of snow, just enough to say yes it snowed.

I also have been doing GOOGLE searches and saw the same, BUT it does NOT give a location for a RELAY for wipers in the 09 model year or any of the first gen Journeys. I suspect that like the fuel pump relay, It's integral to the TIPM / fuse panel circuit board and NOT replaceable. Like many other Dodge cars of this vintage {DJ, Avenger,200, Dakota,etc.} a replacement TIPM/fuse panel is needed

I'd been waiting for you to "chime in" about this. You would seem the best to know with your knowledge and being in Canada.

Hard to say what caused this to happen then. If it only did this one time, I will STRETCH FAR and GUESS that maybe a front door handle was still sensing by passive entry, or a door or handle was not fully closed. Keep an eye on it when you shut down the car and go to leave the vehicle that it happens again or not. good luck!

Is radio and remote locks all factory original or has the vehicle been "modified"? I had a problem similar that dash lights/ driver info screen and 4.3 infotainment screen would shut off as normal and then turn back on and stay on. It turned out to be a defective radio module. To give a general location Idea , it's where the CD slot is. The center trim and components would need to be removed to gain access to it, but not a hard job.

Did you go the the settings page of the center infotainment/radio screen and check lighting section? The thread just posted says such if you read thru it. So you JUST RECENTLY bought this Journey, YES there are a lot of things to get accustomed to with these cars, and I would even surmise that door lock options can also be found thru settings page of the infotainment screen.

A FEW of the membership here are former auto techs or avid DIYers, the forum is not designed or run as factory database. For engine and most transmission work the manual for a Compass should work for you. Electrical and brakes/ body areas need Journey manuals. WHAT are you looking to do?

You have been posting of a number of different electrical problems, can you please share a bit of the cars history so members may get a better clue as to what may be going on? How long have you has this car Was it in an accident and repaired How about that roof water leak, is this car equipped with sunroof? Yes, I'm pretty sure that Canadian cars are supposed to have functioning DLR's......UNLESS this was a USA car brought into Canada. Our Canadian members could tell you better on this.

@John/Horace Thanks for setting me right, I should have know better on the "multi air" motor. My future daughter in law has a 2018 Compass with this motor, granted I've only looked briefly under the hood 2X. Also when folks add on to a thread, I guess I need to look closer to their personal info to see what year they have. The OP had a 2015 and Dsbennett315 has a 2018. I initially responded correctly to the original poster.

Can't tell from your picture, but does the car has the sunroof option? IF it does, then I'd suspect the drain lines are clogged with debris, a common issue with all factory sunroof cars.

SORRY, I need better eyes or enlarge the print size on my screen. Posted manuals are up to 2016. Yes I now see yours is a 2018, and I'm KINDA SURE that the 2.4 in your vehicle is the tiger shark {nickname} and not the older world{nickname} motor. A lot of SIMILARITIES, in procedures but a different cylinder head design, so yes you're going to have to find a manual for that motor. There are many different STELLANTIS models that use this motor, and main torque specs and teardown instructions would be the same for your Journey. Only differences would probably be intake manifold orientation. Again sorry for my poor eyes, good luck on your big job.

2/7/24 UPDATE All 3 Journeys are doing fine, but they all need a good wash from the mud and dust due to no snow to speak of and lack of good steady rain. Typical for farm country. The wife bought a new $50.00 Trac Phone thru Walmart last weekend, as her OLD trac phone could not even connect to her job's wireless system. She got it all transfered and even paired it to her '13RT and LO AND BEHOLD it connects up almost instantaneously now when she gets in the car with her new phone. All the car's functions with bluetooth and phone work perfectly. I had been thinking a module problem since getting the car last summer!

complete manuals for journey ARE posted here on the forum try looking for it rather than asking for them.

There was a thread made about similar problem recently, this was from an independant shop owner . He found that the tab for the switch to work on is plastic formed on the brake pedal arm. He replaced the brake pedal unit and all was good again. Being made of plastic, I wonder if it's pivot point is wearing and causing misalignment to operate the switch properly? Or maybe for this member, that the tab the switch works off from is damaged somehow?

Sorry , I forgot about location of the starter solenoid. All the more reason to check condition of wires that plug into the bottom of the TIPM. An older car, wires deteriorate and pin ends overheat and expand not allowing good connection Don't trust the plastic modular plugs for all the wires to connect, I also use Dielectric grease on all plug connections, just like for battery connections, once cleaned.

That switch is very finicky as it does more than just brakes lights, it also works the shifter lock{what you are probably hearing} and also ties in with the push to start button. Recheck connections on the switch and may have to adjust {somehow} the plunger throw for all to work. I've not had to deal with that switch on any of the 3 DJ's I've got, so good luck to you and keep us here informed to how things go.

OKAY, you need to take the tipm up and check wire pin connectors. you have a start by knowing where and what color code wire you jumped. Trace back from the relat tthru the tipm. I take it this is a USED TIPM you put in? The part numbers need to match up for all things to work{same trim and options between yours and donor car}

Did you "old school" and test for power with key in cranking position at small push on wire of the starter solenoid? When key is turned to the run position, FP should energize and build up fuel pressure, can you disconnect the fuel line and see if fuel is there?

So all is back to OE, anti theft is now turned off. What do you mean by "NO START"? Does the starter motor spin the engine, but ENGINE will not run? NO on an external "reprogram of the TIPM/ fuse panel. Time to now go "old school" and check for spark and also for fuel. YES a bit of a pain, but far easier to do on a 4 cyl than the V6's. No fuel could be plug connection on bottom of TIPM that happens to power fuel pump, OR if a used TIPM the circuit board of TIPM is bad for the fuel pump circuit. They had a problem with that circuit for fuel pump, as the FP relay is hard soldered to the circuit board. SORRY for the delay in responding, was a very hectic week doing research and "training" for NEW electronics on late model FCA vehicles{'18 - '22} with one of my friends shop.

I think I'm now understanding better now But stated before , do you have a second key to try on the car? Is the battery known good and good connections to it? IF so unhook the neg cable at the strut tower for 10 - 15 minutes then reconnect open drivers door and put key in the run position{do NOT CRANK} Open drivers window turn key off and remove {window open is for safety factor that you can get back inside if this does not work} open door and get out lock doors with the door master switch Wait a few minutes then use the KEY in the door lock and unlock the door Get in and try to start. This MAY OR MAY NOT WORK, as I still think there are other fuse panel issues at play, GOOD LUCK

I agree, the regulator is in the PCM and power flows to PCM from TIPM/fuse panel. Have you removed the plastic connectors of PCM and checked for damaged pin connectors from the 2 wire alternator plug?

Without looking up the part{neg. post battery sensor}, I'm not so sure the '10 models use it. Another thing to keep in mind is it is not always a component that fails, a lot of times it's a wire or connection that fails{corrodes or breaks inside the insulation. The charging system circuitry is basically the same thru all years and models of Dodge vehicles using the 2.4 And even more importantly is good clean and TIGHT connections at the battery and TIPM {positive} and strut tower {neg}. I WISH I was computer literate enough to post links as I know of a few good you tube videos about "not charging on the 2.4 motors. AND quite honestly I'm getting confused with just what the main issue of this thread is getting to be. IF not charging when able to start....that is the FIRST fix that needs to be done, don't try and bypass secondary issues of anti theft which does not involve the cars alarm system{that;s a separate function.

Same background here, I have friends yet that have their own shops and spend some time with them to keep up on things as best as able. I've even helped them out on some "perplexing" problems they've had come in. Yes info/ DISinfo can be hard to find and put to use. Time is one "luxury"{?} I have to be able to spend on the web looking up stuff. The TIPM/fuse panel is not easily bypassed for wiring circuitry and when multiple glitches show up, it's almost always best to find a replacement unit., the printed circuit board inside them loves to go bad with breaks or lost solder connections.

Also as you keep posting that the FOB alarm system does not seem to work, you are mistaking one system for the other.Alarm and ANTI THEFT are two different systems. Call me a "purist", but patching in an external voltage regulator rather than finding and fixing the designed system problem is not the way to go. There are a number of you tube videos that show how to check and trace back to the PCM of the 2 wire mini plug {alternator exciter circuit} and determine fault and correct it to make the system charge. You have also posted of some other problems that are known symptoms of a bad fuse panel/TIPM out under the hood. Also power from that provides power for charge circuits to the PCM. These are things that must be checked and tested to find and FIX the overall problem. As was just posted, Dealer level techs have the best capabilities in proper and accurate diagnostics of these kind pf troubles. Good luck