5rebel9

As far as I have learned, there is NO way to disable the anti theft portion on your year or any other dodge products. That's why they call it anti theft.

Sounds like you have multiple different problems. Most prominent being a faulty fuse panel, and a common issue for your year vehicle. Not charging could also be fuse panel related OR wires from the small plug in connector on the alternator back to the PCM, but you have also stated that the circuit was bypassed with installing a separate voltage regulator. My bet on charging is some kind of feed wire to activate the alt. is not connected or broken somewhere. Disconnecting the battery for extended time WILL kick in the anti theft immobilizer.

YUP, I agree with you ! AND it does not comprehend that it's been a "done deal" for 8 months and NOT just a possibility if it had scanned the whole thread of my posts here. But I must also say that there's not much to be done about it, our moderator has asked for help and nobody has stepped up. I can barely do posts and beyond TYPING, I'm lost as to linking in photos or other info from the site to a posting....In other words I'm barely computer literate. On a side note that we all be truthful, the '11 is now titled and insured in my son's name and resides at his home in the next town away from our home. So does this mean that I'm actually back to a 2 Journey family ? Yes I still "spearhead" the maint. work that it will require. IF he thinks something's wrong, he calls me. At least he has learned to check the oil and refill the washer tank!

Factory manuals were posted to the forum, YOU can look up wiring schematics there. Sounds like you MAY have a bad fuse panel. For some background info, WHY were all these parts changed out and did any prove to be faulty? Did you have a high grade computer scan done for any codes? or are you just going by trial and error?

Not really sure of what you are saying in the posting other than from the title of oil pressure trouble. The engine oil pump is a 2 stage pump, unkie most other motors. It has been sort of problematic for a number of 3.6/3.2 engines. BUT it will set OBD trouble codes/ Check engine light for at least 2 different problems. Those are P06DD and P06DE Both mean a new oil pump in the majority of cases. BUT I agree with putting in a new oil pressure sensor first. I did not post of my own oil pump code on the forum here, but recently on my '14 Journey had the P06DE show up and immediately had the oil pump replaced. cost me almost $600. US dollars. Most of that being the cost of an OEM pump and not an aftermarket supplier.

A 2017 and from the Middle East, WHAT ENGINE does it have ? so members are not guessing.

Sorry to hear of the situation. With the myriad of electronics found in these and many other vehicles today, ground{-} connections are critical. You posted the battery is only 2 months old, so I'd doubt the battery. BUT who replaced it? Did the cable connectors get a good cleaning before going onto the new battery? Also the ground connections on the drivers side strut tower are known "weak links". Extreme cold will make marginal connections even worse. When you can get to it{due to the weather}, a good cleaning and application of dielectric grease to battery posts/cable clamps and on the strut tower connections along with the RED {+} connection to the underhood fuse panel should get your ride up and going. Welcome to the Forum and my what a wonderful weather time to have this problem occur!

Having done the heater core the same way as you posted. YES one needs to be VERY GENTLE with vibrations of cutting the lines on the new heater core, or damage will happen as you post. I also knew that when using heater hose and screw clamps that you also need to go back to them after a little while and RECHECK the clamps tightness. My son who drives the vehicle I post of did not give me a chance to do such UNTIL he complained of a wet drivers side floor and lack of heat. The time period involved was also right about a month. If you are sure it's from tube to core body, whatever you decide to do, make sure you recheck the rubber hoses and clamp tightness.

AH YES! I must not forget about the work on the "CADDY"!

Just to "fuel" your imagination, since panels are out and I'm sure there are LOTS available at wreckers. what about "engineering" access panels to such as the strut areas? ALL the work "plumbing" in the air ride AND the sound system deserves to be open to be seen. But in my own opinion, the interior needs to be "modestly covered".....so to speak LOL Just trying to keep those "upgrade plans" moving thru your mind thru the COLD WINTER MONTHS !

OK.... Done for a while, but now start planning for the air horn update since you have the air supply readily available. LOL Looks great with all that "equipment" packed in that location ! Just have to ask though, are the side trim panels able to go back in for the "finished" factory appearance?

Well, I figured out something that helps low beam night driving. On all the many cars I've had over the years{and there are MANY}, I had always had the dash illumination turned up pretty high. I tried turning dash lights down quite a lot on the '14 and '13 and WOW what a difference in being able to see the road on low beam setting without the fog lights also on! My son, I found out has his dash lighting turned almost off on the '11 and says it helps him. BUT still would like better low beams or fogs installed. The '11 has the old long width lower grill,and fog housing trim panels are different than the other later year Journeys I have. Also I finished up his "Christmas" present and got the aftermarket remote start fob activated and working with my alphaobd program today! He was VERY HAPPY and EXCITED to have that working, and says now it does not seem like just an old car anymore...it has a MODERN common feature now! .... LOL

That's quite the installation! Looks great I get what you're after with the "CADDY" and the Journey now. Just be content with it not being "lightning fast", as you may get "air sickness" from "playing" with sudden fast height changes! ....LOL

WELLLL For being a Journey forum... Pic's of the "CADDY" look GREAT! But for what you're taking out of the "CADDY" to put into the Journey, what's going to go back into the "CADDY"?

The OP is talking about the big nut for the CV joint, I doubt it would snap the "lug". BUT you are very correct about a good long helper pipe, I've done that many a time to compensate for my bad back and crusty CV joint nuts, even when using a 2.5' 3/4 "drive breaker bar! To Mando Mayer...... If as bad as you say, you may think about getting a new nut and use a hammer & chisel to split the nut that's so stuck. Only need to do this on one flat midway of it's length. This would loosen things up nicely for removal, but you WILL NEED A NEW axle nut on reassembly.

They are lefty loosey righty tighty! An 09 model, they have not probably been off in ages {if ever} and will have siezed up on the threads, try soaking the stub shaft with a good penetrating oil like liquid wrench.

Well time for a brief update on the '14 Since getting another torque converter, I've put almost 600 miles on the car. Trans is working fine with NO odd noises and pulling a respectable for our area 22 mpg The rear toe links and "rube goldberg" rear toe setting seems to have worked out well. We did get some significant snow after Thanksgiving and it handled so much better than previous seasons and tire wear is nonexistent so far{I know, only 600 miles}. Now just to keep me putting it on the "bad list" one of the front fog lights burned out. The previous owner had installed BLUE colored bulbs, and try as I might I can not find similar bulbs. So I need to buy a PAIR of bulbs. Those bulbs are NOT CHEAP even for basic bulbs and not readily available at most of my area's parts stores or even Walmarts. I can almost buy complete units for the price of a pair of just bulbs! I also want to "upgrade the low beams as with doing more "dark time" driving due to the time of year. without the fog lights the low beams are woefully inadequate for me. High beams seem very good. My son says the '11 seems the same and either wants fogs installed or low beam "upgrading" also' Wife is fine with the '13 with working fogs. Oh yes, and there is still the need to replace the RF TPMS in that wheel! We made it thru Christmas financially, but just got our annual County/town tax bill due by end of Jan, I guess I'd better leave things alone on these minor needs until the bank account recovers enough in FEBRUARY! And hope that nothing else goes wrong with any of our vehicles till then !

Over the summer I replaced the rear struts on our '11 with 3 row seating. I had seen this video and a few others and decided to try it on one side for cutting the panel. I was NOT IMPRESSED and decided to go the right way and found a lot of seat removal work was NOT needed. YES it's a pain for window trim removal and replacing when done, but once you get to the actual struts things go quite easily. On vehicles with rear heat/a/c on the right side {most all 3 row models}, there is an air duct that needs to be removed{easy to do} that covers over the upper strut nuts. I found also that the left{drivers side} lower panel did not need to come completely out, just needed some pretty long ratchet extensions to reach over the height of the panel being pulled away. IF I have to do the '13 or '14, I will do it the right way{with some shortcuts}. The '13 RT should be easy as it's 2 row and no rear HVAC to contend with.

Translated to English, the OP is looking for step by step assembly instructions for the 2.7 engine of 2011 vintage. Definitely a Europeans offer model.

hahaha Self editing now? I like the change! I've notice on ours that while the chrome is a nice "touch" for looks, the GLARE off from it in bright sunlight is very distracting. Are you sure that with doing all these "upgrades" to your Journey and Caddy that this is not your source for income{JOB}? You look quite good at doing such! Have a Happy and safe New Year!

Welcome to the forum. Sorry to say this but without any background history of any recent problems/repairs. It is hard to come up with a pinpoint solution for you. my best GUESS would be a relay on the TIPM/fuse panel on the drivers side under the hood. The 08 - 10 are getting old now and were noted for TIPM/Fuse panel troubles.

FROM { and for} RUSSIA WITH LOVE!...Forgive me James Bond! Yup @John/Horace, pretty comical, but where in the WWW do you find such articles? Your cars must be pretty well maintained and reliable to have the time to find and post such automotive gems! Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!

Bet you never thought somebody would EXAMINE your pictures so closely to notice such .....AND to make joking comment of a little "detail" in it! Have a very MERRY CHRISTMAS and I hope you keep your nice warm weather! COLD NIGHTS here and Day temps of 30 - 40*, but Christmas day calling for a heat wave of 52* here.....and I'll gladly have it!

Sandals with exposed toes verses SNOW BOOTS like up here for me???? Yes the bezel looks very nice, and then to put the rest of the dash back together!

So, yea indeed they all have the rear deck lock/unlock button. and they all work both ways on our 3. BUT much to a HOPE I had .... NO it will NOT unlock if fob is inside the front of the car, should someone inadvertently lock the fob in the car. Since I have 2 fobs for the '14, I tried it and found the disheartening result. :{