5rebel9

A 2.4 with 133,000 miles? What engine tune up maint has been done {plugs are needed about every 40k miles}? Every taken the transmission oil pan down and drained the fluid AND replaced the trans oil filter? Take a good look in the owners manual about recommended service intervals. You will also find a LOT of good service advice here on the forum.

Can you post an APPROXIMATION of the amount that drained out when you did the job? For those of us that have done this job, tour posting of 5.5 quarts seems a bit high. BUT yes you may have been low, that's why I ask about what amount drained out. Good job tackling this yourself!

Yes a pan drop and filter would only require about 5 quarts MAYBE 1/2 quart more, NO matter of what drained out if less of the original. I've had good luck with Walmart ATF+4, particularly if you drop the pan again soon after the initial drain. It's also less expensive! I've found that at operating temp {fully warmed up} that right at 1" reading on the CLEANED OFF engine oil dipstick is a proper fill level on these trannies. I go back over 30 years with driving Dodge/Chrysler products, maintained properly and NOT ABUSED they do good service in return. NO VEHICLE is a living room couch that needs no maint., treat any car as they should and they will perform as designed. You will probably find the pan is sealed with RTV when you go to lower it, a 2"wide paint scraper and light tapping between the pan and trans . will get it free. AFTER you drain a second time after a couple k miles, I would use RTV rather than a premade gasket... less chance of developing seepage or leak.

Great! Make sure to use ONLY the ATF+4 that is called for. Yes if the trans has to be removed for MAJOR work, it is a BIG JOB and lots of $$$$ And yes the 2 of mine are repaired and doing fine. One needed the valve body replaced and the other needed a torque converter. I got these with over 150k miles and fluids were done, but not until I got them! Yes times are tough, but most people just don't want to do preventive maint. as called for.

YOUR procrastination to doing anything is doing the car more harm. Take it from a guy who has 3 of these. TWO of which developed trans problems. Is the check engine light on when you drive the car??? IF soo even an autozone store will scan it for free and could point to what is going on. CHEAPEST WAY to figure out what is going on after a good scan IS to drop the pan and change the filter and oilAND looing for any metallic grindings in the pan. YOU have been given good advice on your posts, stop procrastinating!

09 with a timing chain? I GUESS you have the 2.4 L {4 cylinder} motor? YES it could be simple as dying battery OR dirty battery cable connections ob ALL the multipoint POS and NEG cables and battery terminals.

Yes loss of screen and panel controls would lead to assume the seperate radio module, but since you also bring up the reverse camera and that they do come on after a "reboot". I would be checking for a poor ground connection. Since you have reverse camera, I assume you have the 8.4" screen and auto temp.

Is the 2015 an AWD also? YES it will bolt up IF it has the correct side plate that the AWD power take off uses. IF NOT that plate can be unbolted from each and swapped I have NOT done one myself to say with confidence, but what I was shown and told by MY personal friend who has an Independent auto shop and did a trans for our '11 3.6 AWD using a FWD '14 62te.

That many different ellectrical problems on a 5 year old car... I'd be wondering about flood damage or "critters" getting into the vehicle and chewing up wiring. Unfortunately the OP does not give any background info.

Did this "stalling" start happening AFTER cleaning and re oiling the air filter??? PERHAPS too much oil in it and choking off air passage??? How many 100Kms on the odometer????

The 2.4 is a rather finicky motor.... particularly for SPARK PLUGS if they have not been replaced for at least 30k MILES {not sure the KM conversion}. This will lead to stalling when under additional engine load or at low speeds {like coming to a stop}. There are MANY posts on this forum about similar concern as you post.

Well yes I had that spring problem on the right rear caliper, BUT the LR was also RUSTED solid piston to caliper body behind the piston seal/dust boot. Western NY is NOT KIND on any vehicle for corrosion.

I remove the NUTS {10mm socket} and then used both hands to hold the module and the other to work the connector off, YES a bit snug thanke to dirt/heat in that area. with the module unfastened there is more working room, especially with my huge mitts!

YES ! I wanted to do this with our 2011 mainstreet, but costs of keeping up 3 DJ's AND a Buick Lucerne are killing me. Just finished putting in rear Monroe struts at $330. and found out that BOTH rear calipers need to be replaced @ $315. with pads. Gonna do those Saturday! And those are Parts with sales tax, NOT labor {that I'm doing} This is on the '11 mainstreet That I'm tempted to KEEP but will have to probably SELL. I also have new front rotors and pads that I've had for some time now to install.

I just bent the top of the liner arch down and worked it down toward the front of the wheel arch until I could SEE and work with the 2 6mm /10mm socket nuts and unplug the connector. My son has NOT REPORTED any more "glitches", BUT he has a LOT GOING ON and LONG work hours.

I may be wrong, but a quick dealer parts look up shows it in the L rear corner of the interior. Good luck

Either way is a PITA! But I would say less things involved to pull the trans if it is a FWD. Even if an AWD I'd still go for trans, but a lot more work. By YEARS, you are due for a timing belt replacement, and it's a lot easier to do with the ENGINE out. Most folks try and get away without doing the belt and waterpump....then cry when the belt snaps or sheds cog teeth and ruins the guts of the INTERFERENCE MOTOR. YOU have some decisions to make...GOOD LUCK and keep us here posted on how you go.

I just found this old subject thread: I recently had this code show up on our '14 62te equipped DJ. I knew it was a torque converter going bad and had my friend seek {give his advice} and he said solenoid and fluid/filter change to see if it would fix. Was against my preference, but as the trans has to be removed for a torque converter {a rather pricey job}, we tried his way first....NO LUCK! So at my reasonable charges , had him pull out the trans and install a new torque converter for a total cost of $1,100. Then to finish things off, another $100 for rear upper control arms. There are plenty of youtube videos about this code and what to do. ALL working FINE now and not chewing off inner tread of rear tires

CORRECTION: ABS is the primary reason for the others coming on also. I don't like autocorrect on my computer!

Not sure if this helps any from what was posted for codes, BUT..... The AS is the primary reason for the others going out. Front wheel speed sensors are separate from the front hub bearings, BUT the "tone ring" they get their signal from is part of the hub bearing. and those are known to fail with age. Only fix is to replace the hub bearing assembly{not a real bad job}.there are many youtube videos on how to do it.

Oh my gosh! I forgot about this posting....time to bring it to an end result! My friend gave me the pair of horns from a DJ he was scrapping out. Popped the top of the grill away {not total removal} and within 10 minutes the switch was done and back together and working FINE. NY motor vehicles law says passenger cars are decibel limited/ no air horns.

It has only been a day, but SO FAR SO GOOD ! Four drives and 100 miles total driven.

YES please do that. As you have now read on the forum, there are multiple ways any system can malfunction. I now have a wheel sensor scanner just like tire shops use, so I know the wheel sensors ARE working....so on to the next possibility and so forth till the cause is found and fixed. They don't call it a diagnostic tree for following for the heck of print space. {when PRINTED shop manuals were the norm}.

My vehicle in question is mainly driven now by my son which he took to work today,{ I have 3 DJ's} He will report how TPMS functioned tomorrow when he gets home. But yes the metal wire connectors inside the plastic plug and module body can tarnish and not allow the electrical signal thru on one or more of the 4{?} wires. and that WILL throw codes or "drop out" tire readings. I put Di-electric contact grease into the female connectors of the harness plug and with the combination of recent unplu/replugs must have cleaned up the connections to have things work properly. NOT terribly hard work to do, so all I can say is try putting your original back on likewise and also have a tire shop check your sensor with the scanners they have that one just points closely at the wheel SENSOR to see if they all are indeed SENDING signal to the module. The module is the RECIEVER that sends the info to the dash.

Hey there, I was pretty tired out when responding last eve. I re read your posting and YES it sounds like a control {FAN SPEED} problem is yours the big screen audio screen and controls for fan failing from the screen or when you say turn off by the manual knob control?