5rebel9

And that is why I said that I would suspect the P/S Pump first. I was in a hurry to further explain in my posting. Thanks for clarifying about the relief valve.

as a long time {but now retired} auto tech, I can only thinks of 2 possibilities. 1 A defective rack and pinion 2 A power steering pump Hard to determine either, but I'd suspect the power steering pump first. GOOD LUCK fellow DJ owner, keep us updated.

MUCH discussed topic problem IF you would have read thru this topic page or used the search function. It is a defective RECIC. Door Actuator. Remove the glove box and you will find it and it's one of the easiest to replace.

Nope. ALWAYS the right front and quite a while since getting new tires. Sensor scanner for wheel sensors show all 4 working and reading well. If you look up the codes, they are all system and front/rear/left and right position determining problems. ODD that the display still will accurately show correct tire pressures at each wheel position.

UPDATE" Well it has been decided that the '11 DJ will be sold off and my son will take over the '14 and I keep my "old peoples" Lucerne! My son had to "borrow" the use of the Lucerne for a few days while his '11 had some maint. work done on the trans. And came to realize what a nice ride it was. I had been concerned about shift "feel" of this '11 DJ since getting a used trans for it shortly after buying the car and since getting the'14 DJ made me want to investigate further on the '11. My friend and I tried replacing TTC solenoids and trans oil/filter, which made shifting WORSE. This was HIS preferred "fix" as I wanted to try a different Valve Body, as he had a few blown Differential section trannies on hand. We did swap out the Valve body and now the '11 is better than the '14's {which is shifting perfectly}. Yeah, It cost my son $400. to do, but he needs to drive it for another month till the '13 RT is ready. SO this will still be a 2 journey and a BUICK family!

Hwy! Our {the WIFES] Early '14 just started doing the same thing! Ran advanced codes and got these..... C1501-96 C1510-09 C1581-00 C1580-00 C1502-96 Have not rotated tires and always the R.Front dropping out and coming back on, with EVIC message to service TPMS system and tire warning light. My thought is the module, or wiring, waiting for decent weather to tug on the plastic fender liner.

UPDATE as of 2/12/23... 226800showing!

Thanks for posting these pics! This will help me out when I get our '13 next month. Pic's are always NICE to compare with!

You should also check for a battery drain , such things like glove box light staying ON. Your year was known for this particular problem and there are many threads here about the switch being out of whack leaving the light on. IT WILL DRAIN THE BATTERY overnight.

From what I understand the NAV is located in the radio module not the screen. I a little over a month, we'll be taking ownership of a '13RT model with the big screen but NOT NAV. The friend I get my cars thru says he's pretty sure he has a radio module WITH the nav stored away somewhere if I want to upgrade.. I'd rather upgrade with a BU CAMERA first, but for the '13 I believe the SCREEN needs to be changed with a newer year unit.

YES! My son likes his '11 AWD and wife has our '14 AWD 3 row sxt and I have our '10 BUICK LUCERNE. and are ALL well satisfied with our rides. BUT my friend just acquired a '13 AWD 2 row RT that has everything but sunroof and BU camera to sell. I'm in for going after it but either the '11 goes or the BUICK goes. The wife is not well "sold on it as it's the 2 row, but likes that it has about everything else she wants that her '14 does not. STAY TUNED for further updates as to how this deal goes along! NEVER have we had 3 vehicles of the same make and model at the same time.

I did not go as "technical" as you post of for further tests/checks. I just unplugged the connection to the radio/CD player module and the dash went out. I knew that I had other radio modules available to try and replacing that unit fixed the problem. There are some other threads on the forum of the same problem and the same fix. GOOD LUCK!

OK, here goes with my excuses for not posting back sooner! WEATHER, MY ACHING BACK, WIFE NOT GIVING UP CAR. I arraigned for my buddy to check it out and repair the "clunking" as the DJ also developed noisy/growling front wheel bearings. Both front bearings were replaced and the clunking was 98% the sway bar links. YES he said that from posts here that the hole in the strut assy. for the link stud was worn on both struts and he did put a washer on the stud sides along with new greaseable links. YES the old ones were pretty new, but cheapies and each had worn out sockets at the bar attachment ends. Total bill came to $500. OUCH for budget right after Christmas! YES there is still some minor noise from the strut mounts, but very livable for 172k miles on it, but most important is that wife IS HAPPY now!

A PROPER battery load test requires a special tester, using a cranking cycle of the vehicle is NOT good enough. 7 months ago for a "new" battery, I would also go back in to the battery and clean posts and connectors.... yeah a real PAIN. Make sure terminal clamps are TIGHT to posts.. As for misfire, could be a broken wire connector to the #1 coil, and the possibility of a few other things.

Once again engine troubles need to have engine size posted more important than trim level SE. BUT I'll assume the 2.4 , 4 cyl. How old is the battery? You also need to have the battery LOAD TESTED for dying cell, which will cause a lot of issues with flickers and poor running. Just went thru some bad weather huh, try SEAFOAM in the fuel tank to help clean out the injectors and rest of fuel system... you should be surprised at what this can help out with your posted symptoms. Check Engine Light or the ETC throttle light if on will set codes ..if battery does not die. Have the car's computer scanned at an Autozone or other that do it for free and post those code numbers here for further assistance.

Sounds like a great way to track temp differences around the engine! Also I trust the OP is NOT just "quick filling" and then hard running the engine. That's the surest way for an incomplete coolant fill and air entrapment through the motor and heater lines. I fill, then light idle run till warm then shut down for an hour or so and then top up as needed THEN take a light throttle short drive, let cool off and recheck/top off again.

YUP! Not many vehicles do well on ICE and why studs were about the only thing that gave grip on ICE. With the crazy start/end times of my son's job is why I went full studded snows for the '11 DJ.

Joyous Christmas greetings to you as well and ALL on the Forum here!

TOTALLY AGREE with all about proper SNOW TIRES. Studded full snows on our '11 and wife wants full snows for her '14. Had to buy all seasons 1 1/2 months before snows started flying well South of Buffalo NY! then it was funds for X-mas shopping, maybe before the NEW YEAR gets to established I can get a set for hers! We "DODGE'd the bullet" with this Christmas storm with only about 2" snow accumulation, but man the winds and BITTER COLD have been wild!

This forum is designed to HELP DJ owners, NOT meant as a "GRIPE" board. PLEASE inform us of what model/engine/drivetrain yours has. Your initial description of handling concerns has me telling you to have the REAR SUSPENSION inxpected for worn parts and probable FOUR WHEEL ALIGNMENT. LOTS of other make SUV/CUV vehicles have the same issues.

4 cyl. with FWD and not the V6 ? Rear suspension link bushings are a known wear problem and throws rear alignment out and looseness into the rear to track properly. This is most likely WHY you have the situation you experience in such conditions.

A plain key is now made and works the drivers door! Walmart made one for $3.00 with no problem. Now to find a good secure metal HIDING spot! Going to do the same for my son's '11, WHEN I finally see him due to his working hours!

Was already a "step ahead" of your suggestion on having a duplicate made. Events of today made me put that plan on hold even though I had the "key" with me till tomorrow. Going to drop by Walmart near where I have to be Mon - Fri till 1:30 - 2:00 with my Dad at Nursing home . Just not sure if their duplicating key holder will work with the "hidden key" base.

Well, I've now embarrassed myself but luckily in my own driveway! Sat. morning in cold and snow I went out to start the wife's DJ and warm it up for her to go shopping. NO PROBLEM doing that, but decided to toss the FOB into the center dash "cubby" not realizing that it activated the door locks and closed the drivers door! YUP car running and FOB locked inside and my constant fear of this situation was done by ME! YES I got into the car with some difficulty, and NO I don't wish to divulge HOW for anti theft for others safety. I am willing to PM a trusted member if desired, but suffice it to say that the EASIEST WAY is to have a SECOND working FOB to a vehicle handy! We got this '14 back in June and only had ONE FOB. I should have made a second one a top priority back then! For now we took the "hidden " key from the FOB and are keeping in a separate place out of the car at all times. LOL LIVE AND LEARN! Thankfully I was able to not burn up too much gas over the 1/2 -3/4 hr NIGHTMARE to get a door to unlock!

Nice article you found! Brings back memories of my grandfather having a 3.0 engine model. I got to drive it some after it was inherited down to my dad, and that V6 was plenty quick as it was! I also had over the years 2 minivans with the same 3.0, and they never let me down or felt underpowered.