5rebel9

A Unibody vehicle like the Journey does not easily lend itself to "lift kits" like a body on FRAME vehicle. Previous post is "brutally" HONEST. GOOD LUCK to fulfilling your "want", let us know of your progress.

You are correct! ANY loss of rear hatch light or other functions, that is the FIRST place to look. SOMETIMES a break can happen further into the body of the vehicle and necessitates removal of the left rear trim panel to reach/repair wires. This happened on our '11 model year DJ.

John, did you first TRY swapping that tire to another position to rule out a bad tire sensor? IF it move to the new location and not reading, it is then a bad tire sensor and most likely not the receiver module. Many have posted of a wheel not reading but never replying back of doing this as part of troubleshooting before parts cannoning in possibly UNNEEDED parts.

Most likely there is insulating (corrosion) on the battery B+ terminal to B+ (RED) cable connection OR you have a dying battery. Poor connections from COMMON lack of clean cable to battery connections will do mighty strange things to these cars!

As member John/Horace posted........ I'd be willing to bet that this has NEVER been serviced as suggested on this vehicle.

How long have you owned this DJ and what level of standard MAINTAINENCE have you given it along with what size motor(4 or 6 cylinder)? Sounds like corroded(dirty) battery cable to positive of battery connection. YES these need to be gotten at (rather hard for a novice DIYer) but either that or an old and dying battery MAY be a strong possibility to your problem.

some folks just must like to take the most involving and hard way to do a simple task. NOTHING wrong with wiring as was concerned about in earlier posting and switching the hoses on the pump is a simple 5 minute job.

Simplest soltion yet .... Take the car back to the collision shop and explain the frnt / rear reversal situation and ASK them to switctch the 2 hoses on the washer pump! NO MORE EXCUSES and NO MORE WORK for you!

YES the hoses on the pump mounted to the washer reservoir are most likely switched.

What year DJ and what are these steel rims from (and model). On both our '11 and '14 the alloys are a little close with stock '17's Are your rims '16" steels? I can't DEFINITIVELY say spacers and thickness will "fix you up". but with clean and smooth rotor hat and rim mount centers that 5 mm spacers will be ok to stay in place and not have loosening problems. I've only run one set of BP adapters on one car (of very many) in all my driving years and that was on a '72 VW Beetle.

Sadly NO, replaced by the '11 DJ for him 3 years ago now. BUT right after that his girlfriend found another 04 Neon with alloys, so we let her use those rims (with snows on them) for her car. She JUST traded it in for a '19 Jeep Comanche 2 weeks ago. It also sounds like you and I are of the same mind about cars and "pack ratting" parts for them! ... LOL

VERY NICE paint work on those hubcaps! My compliments As for getting those "special lugnuts for them, YES Rock Auto is hard to beat even with some of the shipping prices they get roped into having to pass along with the parts cost. I use them exclusively for all my cars when able to "foresee" parts needs rather than going to the auto parts "box stores". AND those lug nuts are NOT solely for the Journeys, they are the SAME ones our old 04 NEON used for hubcaps. In fact I have a bunch of them to match up to the set of rims and "caps"that I still have for it.

Low coolant levels will mean AIR is in the cooling system AND AIR around the sensor for temp will make sensor misread for accuracy. But it sounds as if you have your own conclusions , so let us know what you do to remedy your problem. Good Luck to you

What kind of scanner? OBD11 reader not good enough, you need one that can read BODY Control Modules for this "check". and there are lots of you tubes about the heater core and how to do actuators. Do you hear a clicking noise from dash when you try and adjust settings? A sure sign of a failed actuator. BUT I have also come across one so badly failed that it did NOT click as gears and supporting shafts for them were so far busted that it didn't "click".

WHY do you now post of constantly having to fill the coolant? These motors are known for air entrapment in the cooling system and an air pocket getting trapped in the heater core will cause loss of heat. Maybe you could give a bit more info as to just what has been going on before you noticed the heat loss.

I don't mean to sound "crass" or insincere, but with the temp problem and being auto temp you really need to spend the money for a complete scan of all computer systems. could be any number of electrical issues from cabin temp sensor to actuators to control modules. Then there is the possibility of a front heater core plugging up as our '11 standard left/right/ rear did with needing a new heater core for the front.

Nah, just an old FORMER US MARINE. I didn't want to go "big" and come across as some "uppity" sort! .... ROFL Actually, I'm not much of a "drinker" now for over 20 years other than for a special occasion! and yes I concur with the responses given and what was posted for the heat exchanger on the oil filter housing. May be best to replace the whole unit and seals.

Glas electrics are working for you. These latest quirks are unrelated, unless you POSSIBLY jarred a connection (or 2) like the electric throttle body or crank sensor, as they are in the general area of that wire.

Yes, a very nice upgrade/repair part. I had one of those (all aluminium including cooler) installed to the motor of our recently bought 2014 which is working very nicely for us. Actually working nicely for the WIFE (her car)!

I'll settle for a Bud light thank you very much! Glad it worked out for you about the trans. Need some more time to contemplate about the new challenge.

By the pictures, that is a fusible link wire. These are NEVER used as a ground wire, it is used as a positive wire connection, and most likely is fastened to the positive heavy wire stud on the starter solenoid. Don't have a 2.4 model to look at of my own to say DEFINITIVLY.

TOO LATE TO HAVE DONE AN EDIT I meant not smooth like a CVT transmission.

I can't speak of the newer models like YOURS, but under what driving driving conditions and are you manually shifting the gears? YES all will feel some strong "tug" as they normally go into the lowest gear, these are not totally smooth like a CCV trans of some other make vehicles. And hard accelerating will also have noticeable shift feel.

NEW or used and unpaired to your vehicle? I just find it curious for TPMS to fail other than the sensors themselves. IF I have just one position that drops out as you post of, I rotate that wheel to a different spot and see if the drop out goes to the new position. Then I know it's a bad sensor. Also have to drive at speed and some distance for sensors to "pair up" and start reading. Just trying to be sure of you following good diagnostic processes to track down the problem, rather than "shotgun" parts.

So, a 3.5 V6 motored older NE USA (and probably rustbelt area) DJ with how many miles? Your description sends loud signals of under heat up conditions of high resistance of the + side, not the ground. Common for the + battery cable connector and battery post to develop an insulating "scum" that can show your symptom. Also connections under the TIPM that go out to trans and starter(among many other things) can loose good pin connection, Have also heard of transmission range sensor(gear position indicator/neutral safety) may not be working quite right. Try putting into N and see if it will start Also due to age, check shift cable connector to trans for wear that may sometimes not fully engage the P position INSIDE the trans with the trans. range position sensor. LOTS of "possibles" here, but I would start out as listed ... GOOD LUCK and report back how you fare out with this.