5rebel9

Well, your "old" VW and many more vehicles are so equipped and are the "NEW" technology. IF you ran vehicles with as many miles/years as the one I do, when need comes to replace components you would probably scream at the price of those type calipers. Yes the Pacifica and Chrysler/Dodge minivans also went to the electric parking brake around 2017 Saab used the manual screw in pistons for parking brake use way back in the early 80's with the 99 model.....don't ask me how I know....LOL !

Just asking on why your thought on the subject. using makeshift or the proper tool? MANY cars with incorporated parking brake in the rear caliper have been around for at least 20 years now. And all have different "variations" of size pin/slots to engage the caliper pistons. Sure beats trying to get at traditional seperate under the disc hub parking brake shoes.....especially in "the rustbelt" Northeast!

Being the 4 cyl. the easiest way is to pull the spark plugs again and compare #2 plug to the other 3 looking for tip damage or clean wash compared to slight darkening of the others. I learned this "trick" WAY BACK in my YOUTH. IF all look the same, then you may have a coil going out and a stuck shut T-stat. I would suggest replacing BOTH stats at same time.

For the REAR calipers, that is correct. slight pressure and turn in.

OKAY, YES if piston is not in any way "sticky" the cube will "make do" work. BUT none of the sides are a really good fit . YES on my first set of rear brakes{the'11} I made it work, BUT the proper tool works so much easier and less hassles of trying to press and turn with a ratchet/extension . I would suppose anyone outside the Northeast "rustbelt" area would also be able to make the "cube" work for a one time deal, but I will go with the proper tooling as stated by 2late4u and have the set from Harbour Freight . Also: note the "cube" I have is 20 some years old now and MAYBE they have updated the cube by now. Note: that for my Buick..... the cube works perfectly, but the HF kit covers a multitude of vehicles.

I'm not sure which size engine is in your car. IF a 4 cyl, then a possible stuck shut thermostat{it has 2}. BUT I also suspect you may have a blown head gasket.

Yes, the rears have to be pressed AND turned in to bring the piston back into the caliper. The so called "universal" cube does NOT fit the the dodge caliper pistons, ask me how I know having 4 of these cars! Parts stores with tool rental should be able to "hook you up" with the needed tool.

Yes it's official now, I got a '13 sxt 4 cyl.model from my sister and brother in law for $400! Motor has 60k miles and body at 185k miles. Known needs are as follows Rear camber arms {I have adj. ones "on hand"} front and rear brake job { Has the "big brakes"} TIRES Drivers door due to inner bottom rust. { my friend has an exact color match/no dents/scratches/rust for $50. if I pull it} Bluetooth/phone non functional, never worked when bought by my sister. {if needed my friend has a couple BT modules for LOW price if I pull} Due to the season, I plan to let it sit for the winter and make it a Spring project {yes, it will be started and moved around to keep things up}, and then put up for sale to make a few bucks So, my son has the '11 mainstreet 3.6awd The wife has the '13 RT 3.6awd I have the '14sxt 3.6 awd and now this '13 4 banger and yup, I still run my '10 Lucerne! I'm not much of a picture poster, but if I can get my son's help and his DJ in the driveway, I'll "line them up for a group shot and have him help me post it here!

Without looking up the bolt spec.'s, I'm pretty sure the 2 bolts for the "stat" are 6mm, so the holes in the cover should be a little bigger. Are you sure they sold you the correct bolts? Your pic. can't tell definitely, but bolt looks to be an 8mm, and definitely would not be correct for engine or stat housing.

INTERESTING..... My shop owner friend swears by the aluminum housing T-stats for ALL the 3.6 engined models. He has them on all his own and family's cars and EVERY taxi minivan fleet he services with NO PROBLEM. With my own 3 3.6 motored DJ's, I;ve only replaced once each on our '11 and '13 with the plastic Dorman units for stuck open stat. I wonder if I have just been "lucky" or something.

Sorry, but the job is finished and all is "buttoned" back up under the dash. I don't care to take lower dash panel and foot duct for drivers side back out for pictures. When I do repairs, I work to get the job done and on to the next project. There ARE YOUTUBE videos of the process I used that gave me the "guts" to do the "cut and splice" way of heater core replacement. Even my shop owner friend was impressed with how this worked out, he has done "flushes" with mixed results on a number of DJ's, and after doing a dash removal and replacement last summer does NOT wish to have to do this job the "proper" way. I had "test driven" the car over to his shop while the lower dash and duct were still out { and he looked things over} so I could do final clamp tightening to assure no leaks.

Just a quick update on my son's '11 I just got done replacing the heater core for the 2nd time since getting the car. It was so much easier to do since all that was needed was to cut the new cores tubes exactly as the old core and exact length cut the 2 5/8" hoses to splice all back together. Heat is better than when I last replaced the core 4{?} years ago In fack after 6 miles from dead cold start, I HAD to cut the temp. setting down on a 46^f test drive! His Fiance does NOT appreciate the COLD ride when riding "shotgun" with him !

Instead of asking again about a task that PROBABLY has been posted of being done by a member here, did YOU spend any time looking for postings of this task being done and what they found? There are many variables with a bad head gasket job that can only be determined as to outcome once that particular motor in question has been "opened up", AND it is a BIG job that most normal owners would NOT tackle. AND a lot of shops do not want responsibility for if held to just put in a new head gasket and it does not work. Example being bad rings/piston from antifreeze being burned/cracked or warped head/block. Good luck to you in how you proceed.

I got the Dorman 902-305 that they say not a fit, but works fine. Unlike the multi ribs on hose connectors tour pic. shows, it has singular barb on the ends and comes with squeeze clamps. I'm quite aware of the "quirks" of the 2.4 and yes I agree with your impressions of the car overall. Just got off the phone with my sister and Bro. in law, they gladly will take the $400. They also did not want to see it just be crushed, but that's about all they do around here now. SO, I sit on the car over the winter and start repairs in the spring with it.

Well..... I got a replacement filler neck and installed it yesterday. Drove it 45 miles to my guy's shop and put it on his hoist. going to need quite a "laundry list" of maint. repairs. brakes camber arms and POSSIBLE toe arms, but also going to need a new radiator and water pump. My sister was offered $375 for it to go to the crusher, tomorrow I will offer them $400 for it and give a parts price breakdown as to why only that amount. Then sit on the car till spring or my guy decides he has immediate use for it, things are a bit tight for myself and him right now, but probably the same for many folks in the world right now...... Yes it runs very well engine /trans, but I definitely see how much difference in performance to the 3.6. This DJ is an sxt with BT and phone, but not working, and I don't care about that right now, but it does have remote start! AND great cabin heat on both sides!

Actually I was thinking of getting it to fix and resell, I see I left that point out of my posting. The car is in just too good of shape to send to the crusher{nobody around is parting cars anymore, just straight to the crusher} all the work needed is common MAINT. related. Yes the wife and I each has a journey with different features and capabilities and my son has the 3rd,but recently moved out to his own home. I use my Buick Lucerne for the nice ride when "out on the town". The wife's has factory tow package for our utility trailer, but just a 2 row seating. Mine is 3 row for more passengers when needed and cargo hauling{but kept clean}.

A POSSIBLE 4 DJ family???? My sister bought a DJ{'13 4cyl} before I got involved with the DJ's. They have just "given up" with the car and want it gone, as it needs complete brakes, tires and rear toe links and alignment{not a very easy job, but I've done them on my '14}. BUT the "coup de gras " came when the radiator filler neck broke. I'm getting a replacement neck and going to see if the engine got hurt, and if it's OK, then offer $500 for it. It has the big brakes, auto headlights and "fog lights", body in nice shape for year and weather conditions and interior very clean. They are just done with the car cost wise, as the shop they use has them at 2 grand to bring back "up to snuff", From what I've seen so far, with my labor, look's like about a grand! Yes the engine has been replaced once already and miles on the body are in the 170k mile range..... So what do you all think? Am I crazy and should let it go to the scrap yard or pursue getting it? YES a bit of a slug compared to my 3 3.6 rides and basic 2 row seating, no remote start{but I can easily make it so}.

Use 5/8" ID hose and clamp them to the tubes. Even medium flow water pressure will "pop" them off and make a mess otherwise.....Ask me how I know....LOL

YUP, I did my son's 2011 Southern transplant heater core that way{cut&splice} 2 years ago. I've got to replace it AGAIN for the same problem. The car came to us with a heavily "gunked up" cooling system 5 years ago. With the newer year than yours, there is a little more to remove under the dash due to an airbag mounting, but YES not difficult timewise to do this way. And yes, over that 2 years I have flushed out the core and system at least twice a year! UNFORTUNATELY this low heat pass. side problem only shows up in colder weather to make repair actions a priority!..... LOL

Yes my hands are full with the 5 and other home equipment{lawn mowers/snowblowers/etc.} to keep up and use. Sometime I feel like I'm stuck in a revolving door with them. Keep on trucking with your DJ and enjoy the break from having to DIY!

Sorry for the late response and my quietness on the site. Yes you are ahead on expenses having that lifetime warranty from a new vehicle. I can't afford even back ib the 2010's to have bought a NEW vehicle, much less an additional "warranty". Other than your aggravation on waiting for back ordered parts, but NOT having to get your hands dirty doing maint. repairs yourself is good for most people. BUT with 3 of these and my Buick and another Buick of my parents to maintain as cost effectively as possible, the lack of dealerships even to 40 miles away is out of the picture for me to be able to do as you have with your Journey. Happy for you that it's working out well for you. I will continue to do as much work repairs/maint as I can do, and when too involved my independant shop friend will get that work. Other than waiting to get it in the shop sometimes, I can't complain one bit about him. And between rockauto and other sources my parts costs are still VERY REASONABLE.

With the tin cap missing the base lug nut becomes an 18mm socket size. IF it's as bad as you say, go to Harbor Freight and get a metric impact deep socket set and HAMMER a 17mm onto the bad lugnut. It won't be an easy job of drilling it out and will most assuredly mar the rim. and be prepared for some "work to get the nut out of the socket afterwards. GOOD LUCK!

It's NOT THAT HARD to replace the radiator! I just did the rad. on my son's '11 3.6 {radiator mounts the same with the 4 cyl}. Just remove the center grill portion and some other EASY remove pieces. There are a number of youtube videos on how to do it. NEW radiator SHOULD be around $200.00, check out rockauto.com

Nice video find! But from what I saw was ALLdoor inop in that video. STILL a good one that may help the OP understand what may be going on. Yes, still a probable broken wire somewhere. Nice when you have a high end scanner/tester to isolate and test functions like the video shows.

When you state that you "manually" have to lock each of the other doors....Do you mean from the Drivers door ,aster switch or each door individually? Most common fault would be a broken wire in the drivers door to body rubber boot, that all the lock wires run through from the Drivers door master switch.