5rebel9

Sorry for late response....winter weather keeps knocking out my ISP! I will admit that I had been confused as to which vehicle had been "parted out"and now understand it was the Avenger. But how long did the sit? YES it sounds like the now is checking wiring of the Journey. OR did the majority of engine harness swap with the donor motor? MAY be mismatches if that's the case.

Can't say it any better. I still question just what is meant by "they parted it out", did they sell off certain pieces like TIPM or ECM??? For best responses, FULL doings need to be stated so not to frustrate poster or members Might also want to go back to basics and clean battery cable connections and grounds on strut tower.

WHY did you jump to posting here and not on your original thread? This makes things very confusing for members to follow and offer advice. NOW your most recent info has me looking for more background info as to just what you have done{they lost the "key" and parked it}How did you go aboout being able to "crank" the starter? Is the "red dot" ANTI THEFT warning light illuminated when you push the start button to accessory position? I'm beginning to suspect that ANTI THEFT mode has been activatedfrom past history of blown motor and "sitting" for some extended time.

All has been good since last posting , except for TEMPS! I will see how the battery is doing come Spring when I can start working on it. Not much of anything needs to be done under the hood. BRAKES{all 4} and rear camber arms and tires {all 4}. I will replace the drivers door for the rust out...looks like drain holes had been plugged up trapping water in the door. IF it is the bluetooth module, I'll pass on that work.

A couple of extra things needed for the years the OP is looking for Remote start IS doable , but need to have hood {bonnet} safety switch installed if car is not already so equipped with R.S. Wiring SHOULD already be there. AND 2015 and newer have a Security Gateway Module that takes special hook up harness for alphabob{or similar program} to enable new fobs and activate R.S. in the BCM

Correct ! And NO TRIM LEVEL came with integrated booster seat{s}, they are a new car customer order option.

I was understanding that you RECENTLY bought this vehicle. That is why I suggested that the oil filter/cooler assembly MAY have been replaced BEFORE you got it and MAY be a poor quality unit. There have been "issues" with the engine oil side cracking and causing leaks AND poor quality replacements not sealing properly on the O rings of the bottom side. Yes, I have 3 3.6 motored DJ's and my '13's had to be replaced TWICE. the second time was due to the plastic base cracking under the cooler due to a poor quality unit and failed after just THREE MONTHS. it got replaced with the aluminum unit. Only my oldest and most miles '11 has the ORIGINAL oil filter/cooler PLASTIC assembly. YES it's a fairly involved job to change out and known Plastic unit problems make the aluminum unit the best choice. Unfortunately even with pictures being posted, it is almost impossible for a forum to "pinpoint" the source of a leak MY understanding is that "newer" years coolant color OE is a PINK/ REDDISH color from approx. 2015 and up. Color between different manufacturers of coolant don't seem to standardize well anymore, LOOK for OAT or HOAT designation. Mine are all high mileage and have been apart{coolant drained completely} so I use the Yellow universal coolant with NO PROBLEMS from it. Good Luck!

From your posted pictures..... 3 things I would check. {1} coolant hose and connection to the oil filter housing assembly {2} possible cracked coolant assembly OR a poor quality unit had been installed and is leaking on the 2 bottom ports under the assembly as in the pictures of the unit posted on this thread. {3} Check the condition of the transmission oil with your engine dipstick for "milkyness" of coolant mixing with the transmission oil. . From your picture, the transmission vent valve looks rather "funky". IF it is the engine filter assembly, GET THE ALUMINIUM replacement!!!

What YEAR used motor did you install to you 2014 body??? IF I recall there was a change made for crankshaft position sensor reluctor {what the sensor reads from}, I can't remember the year switch, but read about it here on the forum. This situation OR a bad crank sensor will prevent the engine from "firing up". As member John/Horace stated, a bad crank sensor will not always throw a code, particularly if the computer has not seen that the engine had been running since being cranked. Disclaimer: I am more of a 3.6 engine person and only recently picked up a running project 2.4 DJ, so detailed knowledge of the 2.4's is limited.

It's SOOO COLD here that I had "brain freeze" from being out getting my battery charger hooked up to my "project" DJ when I read the posting here.....LOL after 15 minutes charging, it fired up. it has spent 5 hours on 2 amp trickle charge. But to the posting heere , yes that kind of temp difference between sides is a plugging up heater core.

40*f ???? you have a HEAT WAVE !!!! My area as of right now is 4*f HOT {good} heat drivers side} and COLD {poor} heat passenger side is classic HEATER CORE internal sludge build up. Due to the way the heater core is positioned, the best way is to replace it. Unfortunately a rather expensive job if done by the "book". Being "down South" you MAY get lucky and restore heat with a good flush of the heater core. Many You Tube videos can be found for "how to's" including cutting the supply/return lines under the dash and splicing the new core with 5/8: ID hose IF you are a DIY type. Good Luck!

Well we hit -16^f this morning. both the wife's '13 and my '14 sxt remote started FINE. However my '13 4 banger project car when attempting remote start did the lock light flash but when hit the remote start button set off the alarm horn and would not start. I went out and tried normal starting it and had good headlights and interior lights but not enough juice for starter to work. It's still below 0*f, so I will wait a while to go back out and clear the snow from the hood and hook up my battery charger to it. When we get back to warmer temps, I will need to clean the jumper post connections and battery terminals. the way winter has hit WNY this year, it may not be until late APRIL that that happens! And yes I had been starting this "project" car every 3 days with no problems until we got such this COLD blast! the weatherman says we should reach 18*f by mid afternoon! My son is arranging for his future mother in law to buy this car, but has me "roped" to a price {lowball} that I had told him DEPENDING on what I find when I actually get to work on the needs found when I got the car. I really don't want to have to spend the money for a new battery for it or even swap one from my DJ.

Yes, over here those motors were available in our DJ's or in "cousin" vehicles. Each size motor had their own "quirks" /strengths/weaknesses. For what you say you are looking for, I would suggest the 2.4.

My '14 has "blacked" rims done by previous owner on Blue body color. I'm not fond of the look, but like the spoke pattern. MY '13 has the "basket weave"spoke 19" rims is silver, and I love the look on the Grey body color. In my area rims are hard to come across at a decent price.....and only ONE of the FOUR DJ's I have has an extra winter set. The other 3 are running "all season" tires and do OK, but there are times full snows would do much better!

We Journey owners in the North American market did not get the 2.0 Diesel option, so many of us have very little knowledge of them. BUT yes the earlier diesels were from the VW /Audi and timing belt driven. They had a habit of breaking if not replaced by scheduled maint. and would destroy the motor. Good luck to you.

Howdy ! Since you have had the vans, then you know about the "quirks" of the 3.6 and the 62te trannie, that's a great start in transitioning to the DJ! Remote start is "doable" but will need some special equipment du to SGM {thanks to the Kia/Hyundai theft problem} or dealer flash to enter BCM and add the feature. AUTO START is add on is not a function commonly found in the DJ's, and has some with the feature in other Stellantis cousins not too well received Get SNOW TIRES and if your rims you have from one of the vans are 17", they will bolt up and work nicely on the DJ. I take it you don't care for the Silver look? SAFETY should take precedence over looks ENJOY your "new to you" ride !

I also had NO reservations doing the "cut and hose splice" the the heater core on our '11. NO WAY that I wanted to do it "by the book" on a DJ, I did do a '04 Neon almost "by the book"{dash removal}, but cut the HVAC case to get the heater core out. This was on my son's first car and it almost made me not want to do any dashboard related work on any Dodge models! Yes paying dealer rates is a KILLER and I think as a way to make people trade in and buy a new{er} vehicle from them.....MORE MONEY!

Very high labor rate and that to do the heater core replacement "by the book" requires the a/c to be evacuated and disconnected and the WHOLE dashboard and steering column to be removed to replace the heater core. A "monster size" job. Find an independent shop for a quote and to do the job. Some states do not permit a registered dealer or shop to replace the heater core by the "cut and hose splice" method due to potential hot coolant leak spraying inside the drivers side footwell area as member 2late4u replied to you. Biggest SAFETY concern would be lack of windshield defrosting ability for vision.

Labor rates are exorbitantly high in some areas, all we know of this member is that is located in the northeast US. IF they are in a big city area, then I would believe their "quote", but I would be looking for a HIGHLY RATED INDEPENDENT SHOP. VERY FEW DEALERS actually care about the customer, just want the MONEY.

I don't know what that cable is for and I have FOUR Dodge Journeys ranging from '11 - '14 and NONE of them have that cable. Sorry to have given an incorrect response earlier!

It is the string cable that slows down the glove box door from fast opening when the latch is released to open the glove box. Many times when underneath dash work{replace cabin air filter,blend door actuator, access to interior fuse panel} the string breaks at the plastic end that goes to the door OR somebody forgot to hook it back up.

Sorry to hear of this. It is a BIG JOB to replace the flex plate, I know as my '14 cracked the flex plate due to a faulty torque converter and both had to be replaced. Definitely NOT a DIY job unless you have full shop capability as the trans has to come out. I do NOT recommend continued driving with it until repaired as the flex plate can further crack and separate which can damage engine and trans. My shop owner friend has had a few DJ's and vans towed in and found this "worst case" scenario. Good luck!

As with GM, Ford MOPAR and any other vehicle make.... CLEAN the GROUNDS{-} at the drivers side strut tower nice and clean along with the wire eyelet ends, and then coat with DIELECTRIC GREASE on reassembly. Next step would be to remove the TIPM and check the condition of all those wires underneath it. Yes you will have to remove the base that the TIPM mounts to in order to do this. Keep us posted as to any progress.

Must have been just a "glitch"! I went out on errands a couple hours later and all was working fine. MAYBE the cold and some ice got into the handle and had the handle not fully retracted flush as normal???? IF it was a broken wire, either in the door jamb or in the handle, it would have given the service keyless entry message on the EVIC screen between the gages. it did NOT do that. Gotta love these COLD snowy winters ! Supposed to go down to 10^f or even a bit lower tonight !☹️

Sorry to hear of your recurring "camera" problem. MAYBE that's why I have not pushed hard to retrofit a camera system to any of our rides. The wife and I are by age trained longtime well to use our mirrors and turn our heads to back up......LOL !😁