5rebel9

The next step, and I did not post before due to parts and MUCH LABOR would be to check for bad rocker arm/wiped out camshaft lobe. This is labor intensive, as upper manifold and valve covers need to be removed and visually inspected.Again, there are many youtube videos to help you along about the subject. A/C compressor or clt0utch is EXPENSIVE, so do your best to LOCATE the source of noise BEFORE spending more $$$ changing parts.

OK, due to the year of vehicle, you probably did NOT "waste" money replacing those parts. BUT I would get the front end up in the air and go underneath and check for a cracked flex plate/ flywheel. This is a visual inspection with engine off and rotating the crankshaft with socket and ratchet from the pulley bolt on the pass. end. There may be a small inspection plate to remove from the trans. bell housing to see the flex plate and also should be numerous youtube videos about the flex plate to give you some guidance about the situation. ALL auto trans 3.6 Dodge/ Chryslers would be the same design and procedures{ DJ. Caravan, Town&Country. As I said before, locating by sound to particular area is rather difficult for pinpointing the source IF the flexplate is cracked. and you say that the A/C seems to work fine. NO MORE parts chucking, do a good visual inspection.

Yes, good points to check posted by member Dean H. BUT if all that checks out OK, you will want to move further acroos the motor and check for a cracked/breaking flex plate{flywheel}. I had this happen on my '14 and a few others here have posted of same situation. Depending on how bad the crack is determines just how bad the noise it will make is. NOT an easy item to diagnose from sound alone and requires a good "visual" inspection from underneath the car here the trans. bolts up to the engine.

NOPE. Can't DIAGNOSE it, but can give an educated GUESS for you....... From the noise change on A/C engagement, I'd be looking into the A/C compressor clutch pulley or the compressor itself. Good Luck and keep us posted.

OK, I was just trying to "cover" common possibilities as you did not post that you got it to start and by what condition. All in all, it may be a wise move to have a battery load test done at a parts store or shop{usually free} just to be sure as once again no posted info as to battery age. Also if still the original starter, by age it is getting old and could be drawing more amps to kick over than your battery is capable of when hot. Keep us posted!

Considering the age of the car, and was just driven to get fuel....as long as it had interior power the battery should be OIK. I would also suspect the shift{gear sensor} may not be fully in park position due to possible shift cable end bushing wear. Try with key in run position of moving the shift lever through the gears and end in park or neutral and then try "cranking" it over.

Welcome to the forum, too bad about your previous DJ. BUT sorry, I'm no audiophile to help you out with your current project.

I would start by checking the push on small wire connector on the starter solenoid of the starter. If the plastic cover end is still there, take it off and check for expanded or deteriorated metal female end inside of that cover.

Strange for such a year and even with that kind of miles on it. Sounds t me from your description that there must be a vacuum leak from one of the hoses near the TB or the seal ing "O" ring itself. I've got 3 3.6 older and all with pushing 200K miles and not had that problem with RPM's or a faulty TB. Power brake vacuum source is an electrical powered pump, don't see the posted connection you speak of to control the RPM's. Please post back what you find, and good luck!

Expensive enough for awhile, glad it has worked out for you. Yes, there is a LOT of labor involved to pull the trans. on these cars. BUT same or more work for many other brands of cars these days.

probably got cleared out by work he had already done or his probable basic scanner and will need a high end scanner to get at codes under "history" or "permanent" codes.

Such a newer vehicle, what kind of maint. had been done PRIOR to this event? Had you just gotten fuel and possibly water? No crank and red dot flashing means anti theft system has activated. Try disconnecting power and ground from the TIPM and neg jumper post for 10 to 15 minutes, reresecure and give it a try. you did not say, but is there sufficient oil and coolant levels?

Check engine light on when driving> There is a code for coolant UNDER parameters. Same as your minivan. BUT as posted already 1.5 mile drive, especially if not above 30mph is NOT much work for the motor to develop heat, particularly if you are getting -12*f temps. I',m from South of Buffalo,NY and even at +15*f it takes some distance and at speeds above 40mph to get heat going. does the DJ have remote start? try using it before just getting in and going, Remote start has a duration cycle of 7 minutes run time. My wife and I do that most all the time in winter weather. Also do not have interior fan on full speed until you do get heat, the cold air force will just make it feel colder.

Welcome aboard! I drove a number of Caravans and T&C"s for the better part of 25 year starting with an 87 and last ones were '04's I loved the early ones from '03-04. Now I have 3 3.6awd DJ's on the road right now and a fourth 4 cyl. model to bring back up to "snuff" to resell Looking forward to seeing you post up here on the forum!

WELL SAID! Had that "situation" with the wife's 13 ! NO JOY when that part decides to "fizzle"!

Yeah, I think we ALL got the brunt of WINTER again today. Some snow overnight then freezing rain and wind then more snow and wind and at 7:30 pm temps at 18*f Just stayed home today and only shoveled off the slop from our sidewalks. My snowblower would not have stood a chance throwing the SLOP, it was the consistency of a slush puppy drink.

I don't have the ability to"manhandle" full barrels around. I get the fuel and right away siphon it into my fill pipe for inside tank. Any time I can save a dollar or more per gal. and I have the money in the budget, I get fuel. Have not gone below 1/4 tank yet this season{knock on wood}! I'm a little East and midway between Buffalo and Olean. Houghton College is the "biggest" draw near me at 10 miles away.

Gotcha! , Yes it is quite a disconcerting feeling and depending on how badly cracked, a hard noise to pinpoint. Feel better about the situation, my friend has had cars TOWED IN with this problem because the car would NOT go anymore or even fire up. BROKEN flex plate gouged out the engine block AND ruined torque converter AND trans front pump. You were able to get it correctly identified and hopefully down for repairs BEFORE things went to the extreme. Also note, Dodge carvans and Town&Country vans with same motor seem more prone to this problem and my friend thinks due to overloading the vehicle. He has a contract to maintain/repair a fleet of TAXI SERVICE minivans

Sorry to hear of your problem. YES I had the flex plate crack on my '14 3.6 AWD. It was due to a faulty torque converter that was an aftermarket replacement. So it now has it's third torque converter and second flex plate and all has been good for a year now. R&R is NO FUN JOB for any one doing the work, I got off "easy" on cost for the work I had done at my friends' shop. For yours to have "shot" mounts and bad flex plate makes me wonder of how you drive your ride. I've got 3 3.6 AWD and have yet to have motor mount or trans mounts to go bad. There have also been a few other postings by members of having the flex plate crack also, so you're not alone.

There is NO COOLANT to the power steering system, just PS FLUID which should be ATF+4 same as trans. Are you sure it's the pump{not a common fail part} or just a hose to it?

@John/Horace Your link shows Fenwick for that FB page, I and my parents have friends thru our church that are there, along with ties to Great Lakes Christian College up there. I have not been up that way though in at least 10 years. So far, my homeowners insurance has not been hit with that kind of "assessment" for type of heat. Got another good 4" of wet snow today and now rain getting ready to move in along with crashing temps tomorrow. On a good note ...we did hit 35*f today!!!!!

We have 3 Seneca reservations within a 40 mile radius of us in the Southern tier of Western NY. the closest one 13 miles away is higher priced due to an agreement with the village it's partially located in. We usually make a day of the trip and go visit our daughter and her family when we go to one located in Irving, NY, just 13 more miles to go visit them. Also a good excuse to be "out and about"!

Also our main heating system is hot water baseboard from oil fired furnace. I get Diesel fuel at Indian reservations near me in 2 55gal. drums with my '14 DJ. Most I've paid this season is $3.70/gal, but usually around $3.20/gal. Local fuel delivered is hanging at $4.34/gal with 150 gal min. and 30 days to pay. Needless to say the thermostat is set to 65* through the whole house and only kicks on when BITTER COLD or late at night. Wood stove keeps things nice and cozy.

YUP, we have a Buck Stove in stone fireplace and S.S. liner. I can tell when getting plugged when the big glass door does not allow to see the flames....been nice and clean all winter so far.

Yes. and actually the last 3 winters. We got cold and snows, BUT NOT LIKE THIS YEAR! We had a pretty DRY Spring and Summer and probably why my firewood supply is drier this winter, but now paying for it with this Winters weather!