5rebel9

I don't have the ability to"manhandle" full barrels around. I get the fuel and right away siphon it into my fill pipe for inside tank. Any time I can save a dollar or more per gal. and I have the money in the budget, I get fuel. Have not gone below 1/4 tank yet this season{knock on wood}! I'm a little East and midway between Buffalo and Olean. Houghton College is the "biggest" draw near me at 10 miles away.

Gotcha! , Yes it is quite a disconcerting feeling and depending on how badly cracked, a hard noise to pinpoint. Feel better about the situation, my friend has had cars TOWED IN with this problem because the car would NOT go anymore or even fire up. BROKEN flex plate gouged out the engine block AND ruined torque converter AND trans front pump. You were able to get it correctly identified and hopefully down for repairs BEFORE things went to the extreme. Also note, Dodge carvans and Town&Country vans with same motor seem more prone to this problem and my friend thinks due to overloading the vehicle. He has a contract to maintain/repair a fleet of TAXI SERVICE minivans

Sorry to hear of your problem. YES I had the flex plate crack on my '14 3.6 AWD. It was due to a faulty torque converter that was an aftermarket replacement. So it now has it's third torque converter and second flex plate and all has been good for a year now. R&R is NO FUN JOB for any one doing the work, I got off "easy" on cost for the work I had done at my friends' shop. For yours to have "shot" mounts and bad flex plate makes me wonder of how you drive your ride. I've got 3 3.6 AWD and have yet to have motor mount or trans mounts to go bad. There have also been a few other postings by members of having the flex plate crack also, so you're not alone.

There is NO COOLANT to the power steering system, just PS FLUID which should be ATF+4 same as trans. Are you sure it's the pump{not a common fail part} or just a hose to it?

@John/Horace Your link shows Fenwick for that FB page, I and my parents have friends thru our church that are there, along with ties to Great Lakes Christian College up there. I have not been up that way though in at least 10 years. So far, my homeowners insurance has not been hit with that kind of "assessment" for type of heat. Got another good 4" of wet snow today and now rain getting ready to move in along with crashing temps tomorrow. On a good note ...we did hit 35*f today!!!!!

We have 3 Seneca reservations within a 40 mile radius of us in the Southern tier of Western NY. the closest one 13 miles away is higher priced due to an agreement with the village it's partially located in. We usually make a day of the trip and go visit our daughter and her family when we go to one located in Irving, NY, just 13 more miles to go visit them. Also a good excuse to be "out and about"!

Also our main heating system is hot water baseboard from oil fired furnace. I get Diesel fuel at Indian reservations near me in 2 55gal. drums with my '14 DJ. Most I've paid this season is $3.70/gal, but usually around $3.20/gal. Local fuel delivered is hanging at $4.34/gal with 150 gal min. and 30 days to pay. Needless to say the thermostat is set to 65* through the whole house and only kicks on when BITTER COLD or late at night. Wood stove keeps things nice and cozy.

YUP, we have a Buck Stove in stone fireplace and S.S. liner. I can tell when getting plugged when the big glass door does not allow to see the flames....been nice and clean all winter so far.

Yes. and actually the last 3 winters. We got cold and snows, BUT NOT LIKE THIS YEAR! We had a pretty DRY Spring and Summer and probably why my firewood supply is drier this winter, but now paying for it with this Winters weather!

Correct! Normally we would get enough of a "mid winter warmup" that I could get up on my 2.5 story roof and clean out my wood stove chimney. In many past years this was an absolute necessity due to the amount of wood i'd burned. I've been lucky so far this season as visible carbon/creosote buildup on the cap is minimal so far this season. MAYBE due to my supply being drier than in previous years. We got 6" of snow last night/this morning, with gusting winds and much drifting and more to come the next 2 days! My snowblower is only 6 hp, but doing very well. But it took 3 hours today to do the normal routine today with 17*f temps! Now that I've reached the mid 60's in age, this is getting to be a royal pain!

IF you want to keep the ride, take it to a TRUSTED INDEPENDANT SHOP and have them do a cooling system flush AND a good seperate heater core flush. and then new coolant. Should not cost even a quarter of the $1600. for core replacement. and worht trying.

I am SO DONE with WINTER! I've made a list of the 5 "entities" most responsible for this rather brutal WINTER WEATHER here in Western NY. {1} Dunkirk Dave........A small furry groundhog, often found in "cahoots" with the next "entity {2} Punxsutawney Phil....Another furry little groundhog {3} Wyrarton Willie.....Another furry groundhog often associated with the above pair, but residing in Canada {4} JACK FROST...... He never wants WINTER to end! {5} WINTER WARLOCK.....Although a good friend of Santa Claus, alias Kris Kringle, this perp continues to dish up these continuing major cold and snow events. IF found, do NOT approach or try to apprehend, contact MOTHER NATURE and inform of their whereabouts and description of the havoc they are causing. IF members here have other continuing winter weather criminals to add to this list.... feel free to do so! SUPPOSEDLY only 4 more weeks till SPRING, but we.ve been blasted regularly since November!!!!!

My Dad and Granddad used those in ALL their cars! 40 years ago they were all analog, nice to see now they are digital. Until my time with the DJ's, most all my cars showed voltage on the dash somewhere, I guess I will look into a couple for my "stable" of DJ's!

For the amount of work involved to replace the oil filter/cooler assembly, I prefer using the upgraded aluminium unit. I have them on 2 of the 3 3.6 DJ's in my "stable". and also like having the '14 and newer filter with redesign relief valve from the '11 - '13 models. Just have to remember to buy the later filter.

The ball joints should be fine as long as the taper stud fit breaks loose without much trouble from the control arm. A sharp blow to the control arm near the ball stud with downward pressure{some kind of pry bar}on the control arm once the nut is sufficiently loosened should be all that's needed.

NO 3.6 motor for 2010, do you mean 3.5??? A number of "drains" to cause possibilities to check out glove box light staying on. Do you have a multimeter to be able to check actual voltage at the positive and Neg points on the TIPM and strut tower? Running should get 13.5 to 14.5 volts. if OK then alternator is good. IF NOT then wiring issue between alternator and ECM{where voltage regulator is. OR a problem with the TIPM{fuse panel }circuitry itself. For good help, a lot more specific info is needed from you. EDIT: I've also heard of issues with wiring connections or even bad instrument cluster on the 08-10 DJ's.

There has got to be some kind of electrical problem. How long did both vehicles sit? Did the Avenger motor run until keys were lost? Recheck all engine harness connectors AND for ground connection of the engine, a hard or slow crank speed of the starter would be a "clue" to this. With start button in ACC position you need to check for 5v ref. and then 12v signal at crank sensor and repair as needed. Could be a break in the wiring anywhere back to the ECM. There are a number of wires that hook up at the starter solenoid main stud, recheck that all are hooked up there. Sight unseen, it's pretty hard to discern just where your problem is. Good luck and "Don't give up the ship"!

Sorry for late response....winter weather keeps knocking out my ISP! I will admit that I had been confused as to which vehicle had been "parted out"and now understand it was the Avenger. But how long did the sit? YES it sounds like the now is checking wiring of the Journey. OR did the majority of engine harness swap with the donor motor? MAY be mismatches if that's the case.

Can't say it any better. I still question just what is meant by "they parted it out", did they sell off certain pieces like TIPM or ECM??? For best responses, FULL doings need to be stated so not to frustrate poster or members Might also want to go back to basics and clean battery cable connections and grounds on strut tower.

WHY did you jump to posting here and not on your original thread? This makes things very confusing for members to follow and offer advice. NOW your most recent info has me looking for more background info as to just what you have done{they lost the "key" and parked it}How did you go aboout being able to "crank" the starter? Is the "red dot" ANTI THEFT warning light illuminated when you push the start button to accessory position? I'm beginning to suspect that ANTI THEFT mode has been activatedfrom past history of blown motor and "sitting" for some extended time.

All has been good since last posting , except for TEMPS! I will see how the battery is doing come Spring when I can start working on it. Not much of anything needs to be done under the hood. BRAKES{all 4} and rear camber arms and tires {all 4}. I will replace the drivers door for the rust out...looks like drain holes had been plugged up trapping water in the door. IF it is the bluetooth module, I'll pass on that work.

A couple of extra things needed for the years the OP is looking for Remote start IS doable , but need to have hood {bonnet} safety switch installed if car is not already so equipped with R.S. Wiring SHOULD already be there. AND 2015 and newer have a Security Gateway Module that takes special hook up harness for alphabob{or similar program} to enable new fobs and activate R.S. in the BCM

Correct ! And NO TRIM LEVEL came with integrated booster seat{s}, they are a new car customer order option.

I was understanding that you RECENTLY bought this vehicle. That is why I suggested that the oil filter/cooler assembly MAY have been replaced BEFORE you got it and MAY be a poor quality unit. There have been "issues" with the engine oil side cracking and causing leaks AND poor quality replacements not sealing properly on the O rings of the bottom side. Yes, I have 3 3.6 motored DJ's and my '13's had to be replaced TWICE. the second time was due to the plastic base cracking under the cooler due to a poor quality unit and failed after just THREE MONTHS. it got replaced with the aluminum unit. Only my oldest and most miles '11 has the ORIGINAL oil filter/cooler PLASTIC assembly. YES it's a fairly involved job to change out and known Plastic unit problems make the aluminum unit the best choice. Unfortunately even with pictures being posted, it is almost impossible for a forum to "pinpoint" the source of a leak MY understanding is that "newer" years coolant color OE is a PINK/ REDDISH color from approx. 2015 and up. Color between different manufacturers of coolant don't seem to standardize well anymore, LOOK for OAT or HOAT designation. Mine are all high mileage and have been apart{coolant drained completely} so I use the Yellow universal coolant with NO PROBLEMS from it. Good Luck!