5rebel9

Interesting conclusion about TPMS MODULE, care to share how you came to such a decision? Did you have the LR tire sensor tested? Also could be a bad wire from the receiver for that corner to the module.

That light function is incorporated into the door latch assembly, not a separate switch. I would start by checking for a broken wire in the rubber boot between the door and the main body of the car.

As my last badly spelled post said.... I have not done this job MYSELF. But By coming back counter clockwise moved any slack in the chain to the wrong side and thus probably at least a tooth off somewhere in the gears alignment. I've done many single cam timing chains and timing belts in my day, and this is why they always say rotate clockwise 2 revolutions and recheck ALL timing mark s for alignment.

I so not have personal knowledge or experience in performing this work. BUT from a close friend ASE master tech & shop owner) who has done these is that with the VVT system these have that it is critical to go by the book on setting timing chain/cam marks. EVERY chance that things will go "south" when using your own marks. Only way to check is to open it back up and align the marks accordingly AND don't forget to have the crank gear in align also. GOOD LUCK and let us know how you "make out" with this problem.

Depending on how the rockers were replaced, IF cams were removed and extreme attention not given to timing chain/marks alignment, that could be a possibility of not being in proper "timing". OR as posted before of wiring not fully connected.

This member you are asking has NOT BEEN ON since Jan of 2018 with NO REPORT BACK. I doubt they will reply to you here. Maybe you could start your own thread of YOUR problem, and give good specifics of symptoms/codes/and previous maint done to get responses to try and help YOU out.

As most all members here are DJ owners and not immersed in knowing all possible combinations of a particular trim level (2015 RT), Could you please post which engine size and if FWD or AWD? How many Km's or miles on the vehicle or any recent maint done (BESIDES OIL CHANGES) would be helpful to have members make some meaningful suggestions.

Is this '15 DJ a 4 or 6 cylinder engine model? Most likely there is air entrapped in the cooing system.

Didn't you do that the other day when you had the work done? YES his direction is proper for doing with new sensors. SOMETIMES they "set" pretty quickly in speed/distance and other times they may need the max time(50mph/20 min straight driving) to pair in with the TPMS system.

I would do it TODAY (Saturday 10/22) as the weather is wonderful for our area, EXCEPT that my daughter and 5mo old granddaughter are on their way out to visit AND I'm sitting with my "Ellie Mae" while wife and daughter enjoy an afternoon out! With the '14 DJ ! MY time with the granddaughter takes PRECEDENCE!

Thanks for clarifying the invoice. YES at this point it sounds to be a defective NEW sensor being it is acting up in a different wheel position. Let us know how things work out for you.

Did you look at your bill/receipt? TPM sensors can cost about $50.00 each installed. IF they replaced them then you should have had a good size bill. YES what you speak of of a position dropping out and coming back IS a sign of a "dying" sensor, and all the shop did was a tire rotation.

WELL ,,,, We are SUPPOSED to get a nice stretch of NICE weather thru the next week, and MAYBE I can get the wife to come straight home from work and give that '14 a good check out. Your responses have NOT fallen on "blind eyes", but in my years as an auto tech, I've seen the whole gambit of suspension noise causes. I WILL report back just what is found with this particular '14 DJ.

It MAY be that also! Honestly, I've not had time to "research" it here on the forum or my other sites I use for vehicles of the similar platform cars(Avenger/200). Been many complaints on those sites of the same concern and strut bearing plates NOT fixing the noise.

Thought it about time to separate postings between our TWO Journeys (sons '11 mainstreet 3.6 AWD and the wife's 14 sxt 3.6 AWD). This thread is for the '14! Got about 4k miles on it since getting the vehicle, and odo showing around the 162k mile mark. Car has been doing GREAT with only a few "glitches" to work out upon getting it. BUT now the wife is saying there is a clunking in the front end at low speed over bumps/sidewalks. Most noticeable from inside the car and I'm hard pressed to hear it walking beside it as the wife backs out our driveway. UNFORTUNATELY, just like getting "check it out time" and weather coordinating to really look it over is proving just as hard for me as taking care of my son's '11. Those two seem to never stop going places long enough for me! My "gut feeling" is either a ball joint or control arm bushings, as the sway bar end links look brand new. I'll update this post when I have made progress on determining and repairing the problem. Just want all to know that both LOVE their respective DJ's

YUP! The things I managed to load into my vans would astound folks, everything from 1.5 face cord of firewood to snowblower, riding lawn mower, rototiller, couches, recliner chairs, along with same as you post of! My last van was also equipped with factory tow package with Nivomat self leveling rear shocks... was a veritable TANK! too bad body rust did it in! In "my book" the last good year for the minivan was the 2005 model, I had 3 different '04's and loved them all, The last being my most favorite!

With the age of the vehicle, driver door wiring is a known common problem on almost all makes of vehicles. The drivers door gets used the most and the wiring between the door and body in the rubber boot break. Easy enough to visually check it out. ALSO if CEL is on and computer IS STORING codes, the remote start IS DISABLED by design.

I don't have a remote start equipped Journey (but I have 2 of them). ALL vehicles I've owned with remote start require that the door lock button is pressed first AND that all door lock before pressing for remote start. I have also read of many cases of the hood safety switch(required for RS) is not functioning and thus prevents RS from happening. Lastly, and you don't specify, is that if the CEL is on when you drive(it stores trouble codes in the computer) the RS is DISABLED.

There are a number of different possibilities as to just what part is affected by going thru a car wash, therefore hard to offer a good pinpoint answer. BUT I'd be strongly looking at the air filter for getting "soaked" with water and thus shutting off needed air for engine to run. Next THOUGHT would be electrical (computer/sensor) wiring getting wet and temporarily shorting out. Good luck and let us know if YOU find your cause of the "shutdown.

My "sentiments" exactly, Depending on known history of vehicle (had since new) . I would expect a good 7 to 8 years life span of them. I only buy well used vehicles usually 10 years old and mostly needing tires anyway, so when I do get new tires I have new sensors put in on all 4.

Not much one can do to make them last indefinitely. When they go,they go. With the extreme we have(by your geo. climate), I've replaced all 4 for my son's Snow Tire set of wheels and 2 on his summer set. I don't know the maint. histories of either of our Journeys, as we got them used and from out of the area. BUT I can say there is NO harm when one "drops out" other than an annoying EVIC message.

$ or 6 cylinder motor? miles on the car? any maint. been done like spark plugs or any sensors? All important items to include to get decent suggestions back to you.

Well, we went down to 30*f and goodly frost last night/EARLY morning. Son reports excellent windshield defrost and HEAT in the car within 2 minutes of startup and traveling "down the road". Greatly relieved for this after replacing the heater core in the 2011 with 220K miles ! Wife's 2014 defrosted very well and great heat right off also! With the 70k mile motor it got and fresh coolant and T-stat, both cars should be good for a couple years now!

Probably a bad rocker arm on one of the cylinders. Many posts of this condition, DON"T keep driving it or you will face more damage to the valvetrain.(and more costs)

Check ALL rubber cooling system hose clamps. IF they are the "spring tension" type and not a screw type, there is every possibility that one or more have actually cracked or broken. This lets coolant "leak away" while parked SLOWLY. The clamp MAY seem tight but a good visual inspection is what's needed to find a broken spring tension clamp. I recently bought a Buick Lucerne CHEAP from a constant coolant loss that turned out to be a broken clamp of this type for the lower rad hose to radiator connection. By design of the car a mirror was needed to see the break on the bottom of the clamp, opposite of the "tabs" to squeeze the clamp open.