5rebel9

A rather tough problem being random multiple cylinder misfires. Sounds like you about did ALL you can do. BUT did you check the wire plugs and wiring to all those sensors you replaced? Also these motors are pretty particular for proper operation to O.E brand sensors and not cheap aftermarket one. TKN is an O.E. maker and found a good source parts brand. I would also clear any codes and try a short run/drive and see if anything more specific shows up. Good Luck and report back.

I replied to your original posting. There are 2 very small wires that are part of the exterior door handle. Dodge had a problem where those wires would break from movement stress, as they were too short on the 2011 models. Later year and replacements had slightly longer wires. My 2011 bought used had this same problem. Very pricey replacement door handle, so I took the handle out and fixed the wire, adding extra length wire. Have had the car 3+ years now and no more trouble from that situation. There are a number of Youtube videos on how to remove the exterior door handle.

Greetings! Most likely cause is broken wire in the drivers door handle. There are a number of youtube videos on how to remove the outer door handle. It's a replace with new handle fix OR if you are handy with small wire soldering and repair you could fix the wire{s, there are 2} Had the same happen on our 2011 model DJ Good Luck and report back how it goes

ATC auto temp control has more parts involved than just actuators like normal manual controls. This is why I suggested in the past thread to have a complete scan done relating to the HVAC system. BUT YES I agree that the heater core is a prime suspect in lack of passenger side heat. Both my current DJ's have manual dual front zone control, BUT soon I'll be getting another that does have the ATC system, I'll post here with what I find on "real world" operation, as being in the Buffalo/western NY area....we NEED to have GOOD HEAT!

Sorry for your misfortune! Don't you have glass coverage on your insurance? I'd let the "pro's" replace it, then if any troubles later it is on their "dime". YES odd the way that it blew out, but curved glass and part of structural integrity of the hatch.... can leave "weird" way in which pieces fall. GOOD LUCK in how you proceed!

NOT USUALLY unless there was some accident damage done to it.Check the easy obvious stuff first.

Could also be a cracked washer hose{it's plastic}. Most likely spot would be near the driver side hood hinge. This situation showed up on the wife's '14 model.

And that is why I said that I would suspect the P/S Pump first. I was in a hurry to further explain in my posting. Thanks for clarifying about the relief valve.

as a long time {but now retired} auto tech, I can only thinks of 2 possibilities. 1 A defective rack and pinion 2 A power steering pump Hard to determine either, but I'd suspect the power steering pump first. GOOD LUCK fellow DJ owner, keep us updated.

MUCH discussed topic problem IF you would have read thru this topic page or used the search function. It is a defective RECIC. Door Actuator. Remove the glove box and you will find it and it's one of the easiest to replace.

Nope. ALWAYS the right front and quite a while since getting new tires. Sensor scanner for wheel sensors show all 4 working and reading well. If you look up the codes, they are all system and front/rear/left and right position determining problems. ODD that the display still will accurately show correct tire pressures at each wheel position.

UPDATE" Well it has been decided that the '11 DJ will be sold off and my son will take over the '14 and I keep my "old peoples" Lucerne! My son had to "borrow" the use of the Lucerne for a few days while his '11 had some maint. work done on the trans. And came to realize what a nice ride it was. I had been concerned about shift "feel" of this '11 DJ since getting a used trans for it shortly after buying the car and since getting the'14 DJ made me want to investigate further on the '11. My friend and I tried replacing TTC solenoids and trans oil/filter, which made shifting WORSE. This was HIS preferred "fix" as I wanted to try a different Valve Body, as he had a few blown Differential section trannies on hand. We did swap out the Valve body and now the '11 is better than the '14's {which is shifting perfectly}. Yeah, It cost my son $400. to do, but he needs to drive it for another month till the '13 RT is ready. SO this will still be a 2 journey and a BUICK family!

Hwy! Our {the WIFES] Early '14 just started doing the same thing! Ran advanced codes and got these..... C1501-96 C1510-09 C1581-00 C1580-00 C1502-96 Have not rotated tires and always the R.Front dropping out and coming back on, with EVIC message to service TPMS system and tire warning light. My thought is the module, or wiring, waiting for decent weather to tug on the plastic fender liner.

UPDATE as of 2/12/23... 226800showing!

Thanks for posting these pics! This will help me out when I get our '13 next month. Pic's are always NICE to compare with!

You should also check for a battery drain , such things like glove box light staying ON. Your year was known for this particular problem and there are many threads here about the switch being out of whack leaving the light on. IT WILL DRAIN THE BATTERY overnight.

From what I understand the NAV is located in the radio module not the screen. I a little over a month, we'll be taking ownership of a '13RT model with the big screen but NOT NAV. The friend I get my cars thru says he's pretty sure he has a radio module WITH the nav stored away somewhere if I want to upgrade.. I'd rather upgrade with a BU CAMERA first, but for the '13 I believe the SCREEN needs to be changed with a newer year unit.

YES! My son likes his '11 AWD and wife has our '14 AWD 3 row sxt and I have our '10 BUICK LUCERNE. and are ALL well satisfied with our rides. BUT my friend just acquired a '13 AWD 2 row RT that has everything but sunroof and BU camera to sell. I'm in for going after it but either the '11 goes or the BUICK goes. The wife is not well "sold on it as it's the 2 row, but likes that it has about everything else she wants that her '14 does not. STAY TUNED for further updates as to how this deal goes along! NEVER have we had 3 vehicles of the same make and model at the same time.

I did not go as "technical" as you post of for further tests/checks. I just unplugged the connection to the radio/CD player module and the dash went out. I knew that I had other radio modules available to try and replacing that unit fixed the problem. There are some other threads on the forum of the same problem and the same fix. GOOD LUCK!

OK, here goes with my excuses for not posting back sooner! WEATHER, MY ACHING BACK, WIFE NOT GIVING UP CAR. I arraigned for my buddy to check it out and repair the "clunking" as the DJ also developed noisy/growling front wheel bearings. Both front bearings were replaced and the clunking was 98% the sway bar links. YES he said that from posts here that the hole in the strut assy. for the link stud was worn on both struts and he did put a washer on the stud sides along with new greaseable links. YES the old ones were pretty new, but cheapies and each had worn out sockets at the bar attachment ends. Total bill came to $500. OUCH for budget right after Christmas! YES there is still some minor noise from the strut mounts, but very livable for 172k miles on it, but most important is that wife IS HAPPY now!

A PROPER battery load test requires a special tester, using a cranking cycle of the vehicle is NOT good enough. 7 months ago for a "new" battery, I would also go back in to the battery and clean posts and connectors.... yeah a real PAIN. Make sure terminal clamps are TIGHT to posts.. As for misfire, could be a broken wire connector to the #1 coil, and the possibility of a few other things.

Once again engine troubles need to have engine size posted more important than trim level SE. BUT I'll assume the 2.4 , 4 cyl. How old is the battery? You also need to have the battery LOAD TESTED for dying cell, which will cause a lot of issues with flickers and poor running. Just went thru some bad weather huh, try SEAFOAM in the fuel tank to help clean out the injectors and rest of fuel system... you should be surprised at what this can help out with your posted symptoms. Check Engine Light or the ETC throttle light if on will set codes ..if battery does not die. Have the car's computer scanned at an Autozone or other that do it for free and post those code numbers here for further assistance.

Sounds like a great way to track temp differences around the engine! Also I trust the OP is NOT just "quick filling" and then hard running the engine. That's the surest way for an incomplete coolant fill and air entrapment through the motor and heater lines. I fill, then light idle run till warm then shut down for an hour or so and then top up as needed THEN take a light throttle short drive, let cool off and recheck/top off again.

YUP! Not many vehicles do well on ICE and why studs were about the only thing that gave grip on ICE. With the crazy start/end times of my son's job is why I went full studded snows for the '11 DJ.

Joyous Christmas greetings to you as well and ALL on the Forum here!