Jump to content

5rebel9

Journey Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,140

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    214

 Content Type 

Everything posted by 5rebel9

  1. 5rebel9
    Also a scanner that can graph/read speed readings of each wheel will show the one or more that is reading erratically, causing the light to come on. Most frequently it is a bad reluctor ring(tone ring) that is integral to the wheel hub bearing which the whole bearing is to be replaced to correct the situation. EDIT: Look up this thread..... Replaced LF wheel speed sensor, now traction control light but no codes This thread is PERFECT with the posting members pic's in it and will show you all you need to know!
  2. 5rebel9
    YES, there is a whole thread about this same circumstance. I don't have the thread posting handy to link it to you, But yes a composite material rear hatch and liquid based rust preventatives do NOT mix.
  3. 5rebel9
    What kind of "scanners" are you using? Some do not read ABS/ air bag codes. Quite possible it is not a "wired" speed sensor, but a possible bad "tone ring" that is part of a wheel hub bearing assembly. Need to find out which corner (or possibly more) is the culprit.
  4. 5rebel9
    Further explanation..... I did not remove the CV joint/axle shaft to replace the hub bearing, so the joint was kind of "hidden" in the steering knuckle yet.
  5. 5rebel9
    MY APOLOGIES to the wrong responses I gave. MY memory must be failing on mr. Could have sworn that when I did a fast hub bearing replacement for GROWLING noise on our '11, that I glanced toothed ring for ABS. I WAS WRONG! I will admit that on seeing your pic's that I'm surprised NOISE was NOT part of the original complaint THANKS for sharing!
  6. 5rebel9
    You even checked the fuses that are located in the INTERIOR FUSE PANEL located between the glove box and kick panel on the passengers side? YES there is a possibility that the heat/ventilation module and the radio module(that one also has the CD player in it) could have been electrically "fried" being we don't know exactly what happened to the car initially. These are also BODY CONTROL MODULE (interior functions) computer, and hooked up by small gage wiring to these parts. They can easily be "fried".
  7. 5rebel9
    To get the vehicle "on the road to recovery" with the least time and aggravation and wasted money on parts that don't fix the issues.......Time to go to a proper shop or DEALER for a thorough computer scan of ALL computer systems and go from there.
  8. 5rebel9
    Looking forward to your report back of the hard reset. UNFORTUNATELY MY outlook is not bright for an easy or inexpensive fix to your problem. PERSONALLY i;d be getting to a transmission shop.
  9. 5rebel9
    YUP, looks like I'll also need to check up on NY decibel laws for horns. As all say wear hearing protection! ROFL Unfortunately the motorcycle system does not sound much like a train horn and the others look to take quite a bit of space for AIR pump/tank mounting. I'd really prefer plain all electric(no air) horns. BUT that site is really "the cat's meow"! Going to try and get some time to search on AMAZON soon.
  10. 5rebel9
    You posted of a cracked radiator(have to be loosing coolant) and showing low engine temp(you say T-stat stuck open). REPLACE THOSE ITEMS and be sure to purge air entrapment out on refilling the coolant. THEN see what the fans do after a GENTLE road test! NOTE: this engines cooling system LOVES to entrap air and causes all kinds of "goofy" symptoms.
  11. 5rebel9
    WHICH ENGINE? the 2.4 or the 3.6?
  12. 5rebel9
    Thanks for that link! The one they show for MOTORCYCLES looks "intriguing", will have to contact them about actual sound it gives and if the DJ's stock horn pad will work as they show a separate horn button in the highly suggested wiring kit for it.. And I guess that I'll try hunting on AMAZON ... I'm very leery with EBAY.
  13. 5rebel9
    Personally, I would start with a very good inspection of the motor/trans mounts. Not knowing your vehicles particulars without going back into your posting history, the front and rear motor mounts take a lot of abuse from engine rock on and off the gas and during shifting. They are also known to be on the "weak" side for longevity. and can cause a clunk sound when worn.
  14. 5rebel9
    Not that we use the horn often, but the low tone horn is not working. Here's my dilema .... The horns on our '11 work fine, but my son wants to upgrade to an electric horn(no extra wiring or changes) that sounds like a modern train engine horn (or very close to one). I decided that his Christmas present would be to fulfill that wish. And then swap the low tone from his to the '14. I'm not much into "online shopping" other than rockauto. Does anyone have any suggestions or can post a link to a known reputable site that can handle what I'm looking for? TIA
  15. 5rebel9
    WAIT A MINUTE HERE NOW .... ARE YOU SURE THAT YOU HAVE THE BEFORE AND AFTER PIC'S IN CORRECT ORDER???? SORRY, I just could not RESIST poking in a little JESTING!
  16. 5rebel9
    Sure looks like you KNOW your calling! You're here doing the SAME"info searching" I do when certain "situations" crop up. That's what forums like these are all about!
  17. 5rebel9
    Lots of folks go by pictures in parts sites,sometimes they ARE MISLEADING as in this case. IF you go further in part description page of part in RA, they say TONE RING INCLUDED where applicable. Maybe I will take a few more minutes and check other sites like Autozone and Advanced Auto if further proof is required. Noted that the OP is in my RUSTBELT area, but confused that he posted of working on a car 2 states away!
  18. 5rebel9
    I try to not but in when other members seem to have things in order but this time,,,,,, I did some looking on my own and cross referencing parts between my '11 and my '14 (both AWD) I had recently replaced a front wheel bearing on the '11 and the bearing is the same for the '14. When I removed the bearing(and not a hard job) the outer CV joint INDEED had a toothed TONE RING. Can see no reason the '14 would be any different as if one cross references same driveline parts between the 2 years, they are the same.
  19. 5rebel9
    Huge job but, I'd bet with the history given that the correlation code is from the cam gears NOT being in alginment on reassembly of the work done. In my book ... it is time for the PRO's to dig into it. .... SORRY!
  20. 5rebel9
    Yup, I'd not push facyory spec plugs beyond 60k miles on these motors. Have you ever cleaned the gunk out of the throttle body butterfly area? The throttle body is electrically opened and closed by means of multiple plastic gears that over time wear out and give poor/ no response to pedal inputs and turn on the lightning bolt icon(which is specifically for the throttle body). also the CRANKSHAFT position sensor is a bit tricky to operation without always throwing a code, but OTHER engine sensors react to a dying CPS. Thus the suggestion to have a good scan done.
  21. 5rebel9
    Although you say no CEL, a scan of the computer MAY show something. These 2.4 motors have a few "quirks" that cause poor running/starting that may not be a direct fuel problem yet NOT turn on the CEL. Also how many miles on this vehicle, as there are some maint. things(like spark plugs) that can also show similar symptoms.
  22. 5rebel9
    Don't know where you're located climate wise, BUT your description of symptoms is a classic sign of the evaporator core in the HVAC box in the dash freezing over from excess condensation, This can happen with many different makes of vehicles. One possibility is that you may may running too long in the recirculation mode. another is weong pressures on the high and low sides of the A/C system. Too much or little R-134a in the system for ambient (outside) air temp. I've not heard of this problem often for the DJ's, but was a common problem with certain KIA SUV's. Does the A/C piping under the hood frost over when in use? I've NOT seen them to do that on a properly charged working system
  23. 5rebel9
    Before I decided to buy our '14 AWD a couple months ago, I also looked at a TWO ROW 4cyl model. I wanted the 3 row over the 4 cyl. TWO row that was also available. The third row can be put in WITH A LOT OF WORK with all parts from a donor car. REMEMBER, you also have to install rear seatbelts and the rear trim panels ARE DIFFERENT, so you need to replace those as well. My friend and I discussed and looked at lenght about doing that to the TWO row I looked at, but because of the smaller 4 cyl motor I opted for the 3.6 AWD he also had. Not sure of your states TITLE info, but in NY it has to be stated for seating capacity. IF the same there there may be questions when they look at vin and see it was made as a TWO row. Here something like that requires a special inspection and documentation of parts source and $$. IF involved in an accident, and not found proper;y documentd, we here would be in BIG TROUBLE with our WONDERFUL BLUE STATE GOVERNMENT. PERHAPS you could post an interior pic showing just what you do have for other better responses.
  24. 5rebel9
    How many miles on the vehicle? And I take it a 4 cyl motor? I'd be willing to bet odds that it is a leaking intake manifold gasket to the cylinder head.
  25. 5rebel9
    I agree rith what you posted John/Horace, Buying something from out of the area USED with no history is always a gamble. BUT this overall body confition of this DJ was well worth it, I spent the better part of my life as an auto tech so not afraid to get "into" vehicles for repairs. When a person is jumping into a FIRST TIME of a certain repair, a good tech/DIY person will amass as much info about the job BEFORE "digging in".That is what I had done thru all this SAGA while TRYING to have weather and scheduling coincide to be able to "GIT ER DONE". I had pretty much concluded from date of purchase that it needed a heater core, but also had possible control issues in my mind due to info searching and lack of "play time" with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...