5rebel9

TOTALLY AGREE with all about proper SNOW TIRES. Studded full snows on our '11 and wife wants full snows for her '14. Had to buy all seasons 1 1/2 months before snows started flying well South of Buffalo NY! then it was funds for X-mas shopping, maybe before the NEW YEAR gets to established I can get a set for hers! We "DODGE'd the bullet" with this Christmas storm with only about 2" snow accumulation, but man the winds and BITTER COLD have been wild!

This forum is designed to HELP DJ owners, NOT meant as a "GRIPE" board. PLEASE inform us of what model/engine/drivetrain yours has. Your initial description of handling concerns has me telling you to have the REAR SUSPENSION inxpected for worn parts and probable FOUR WHEEL ALIGNMENT. LOTS of other make SUV/CUV vehicles have the same issues.

4 cyl. with FWD and not the V6 ? Rear suspension link bushings are a known wear problem and throws rear alignment out and looseness into the rear to track properly. This is most likely WHY you have the situation you experience in such conditions.

A plain key is now made and works the drivers door! Walmart made one for $3.00 with no problem. Now to find a good secure metal HIDING spot! Going to do the same for my son's '11, WHEN I finally see him due to his working hours!

Was already a "step ahead" of your suggestion on having a duplicate made. Events of today made me put that plan on hold even though I had the "key" with me till tomorrow. Going to drop by Walmart near where I have to be Mon - Fri till 1:30 - 2:00 with my Dad at Nursing home . Just not sure if their duplicating key holder will work with the "hidden key" base.

Well, I've now embarrassed myself but luckily in my own driveway! Sat. morning in cold and snow I went out to start the wife's DJ and warm it up for her to go shopping. NO PROBLEM doing that, but decided to toss the FOB into the center dash "cubby" not realizing that it activated the door locks and closed the drivers door! YUP car running and FOB locked inside and my constant fear of this situation was done by ME! YES I got into the car with some difficulty, and NO I don't wish to divulge HOW for anti theft for others safety. I am willing to PM a trusted member if desired, but suffice it to say that the EASIEST WAY is to have a SECOND working FOB to a vehicle handy! We got this '14 back in June and only had ONE FOB. I should have made a second one a top priority back then! For now we took the "hidden " key from the FOB and are keeping in a separate place out of the car at all times. LOL LIVE AND LEARN! Thankfully I was able to not burn up too much gas over the 1/2 -3/4 hr NIGHTMARE to get a door to unlock!

Nice article you found! Brings back memories of my grandfather having a 3.0 engine model. I got to drive it some after it was inherited down to my dad, and that V6 was plenty quick as it was! I also had over the years 2 minivans with the same 3.0, and they never let me down or felt underpowered.

A Unibody vehicle like the Journey does not easily lend itself to "lift kits" like a body on FRAME vehicle. Previous post is "brutally" HONEST. GOOD LUCK to fulfilling your "want", let us know of your progress.

You are correct! ANY loss of rear hatch light or other functions, that is the FIRST place to look. SOMETIMES a break can happen further into the body of the vehicle and necessitates removal of the left rear trim panel to reach/repair wires. This happened on our '11 model year DJ.

John, did you first TRY swapping that tire to another position to rule out a bad tire sensor? IF it move to the new location and not reading, it is then a bad tire sensor and most likely not the receiver module. Many have posted of a wheel not reading but never replying back of doing this as part of troubleshooting before parts cannoning in possibly UNNEEDED parts.

Most likely there is insulating (corrosion) on the battery B+ terminal to B+ (RED) cable connection OR you have a dying battery. Poor connections from COMMON lack of clean cable to battery connections will do mighty strange things to these cars!

As member John/Horace posted........ I'd be willing to bet that this has NEVER been serviced as suggested on this vehicle.

How long have you owned this DJ and what level of standard MAINTAINENCE have you given it along with what size motor(4 or 6 cylinder)? Sounds like corroded(dirty) battery cable to positive of battery connection. YES these need to be gotten at (rather hard for a novice DIYer) but either that or an old and dying battery MAY be a strong possibility to your problem.

some folks just must like to take the most involving and hard way to do a simple task. NOTHING wrong with wiring as was concerned about in earlier posting and switching the hoses on the pump is a simple 5 minute job.

Simplest soltion yet .... Take the car back to the collision shop and explain the frnt / rear reversal situation and ASK them to switctch the 2 hoses on the washer pump! NO MORE EXCUSES and NO MORE WORK for you!

YES the hoses on the pump mounted to the washer reservoir are most likely switched.

What year DJ and what are these steel rims from (and model). On both our '11 and '14 the alloys are a little close with stock '17's Are your rims '16" steels? I can't DEFINITIVELY say spacers and thickness will "fix you up". but with clean and smooth rotor hat and rim mount centers that 5 mm spacers will be ok to stay in place and not have loosening problems. I've only run one set of BP adapters on one car (of very many) in all my driving years and that was on a '72 VW Beetle.

Sadly NO, replaced by the '11 DJ for him 3 years ago now. BUT right after that his girlfriend found another 04 Neon with alloys, so we let her use those rims (with snows on them) for her car. She JUST traded it in for a '19 Jeep Comanche 2 weeks ago. It also sounds like you and I are of the same mind about cars and "pack ratting" parts for them! ... LOL

VERY NICE paint work on those hubcaps! My compliments As for getting those "special lugnuts for them, YES Rock Auto is hard to beat even with some of the shipping prices they get roped into having to pass along with the parts cost. I use them exclusively for all my cars when able to "foresee" parts needs rather than going to the auto parts "box stores". AND those lug nuts are NOT solely for the Journeys, they are the SAME ones our old 04 NEON used for hubcaps. In fact I have a bunch of them to match up to the set of rims and "caps"that I still have for it.

Low coolant levels will mean AIR is in the cooling system AND AIR around the sensor for temp will make sensor misread for accuracy. But it sounds as if you have your own conclusions , so let us know what you do to remedy your problem. Good Luck to you

What kind of scanner? OBD11 reader not good enough, you need one that can read BODY Control Modules for this "check". and there are lots of you tubes about the heater core and how to do actuators. Do you hear a clicking noise from dash when you try and adjust settings? A sure sign of a failed actuator. BUT I have also come across one so badly failed that it did NOT click as gears and supporting shafts for them were so far busted that it didn't "click".

WHY do you now post of constantly having to fill the coolant? These motors are known for air entrapment in the cooling system and an air pocket getting trapped in the heater core will cause loss of heat. Maybe you could give a bit more info as to just what has been going on before you noticed the heat loss.

I don't mean to sound "crass" or insincere, but with the temp problem and being auto temp you really need to spend the money for a complete scan of all computer systems. could be any number of electrical issues from cabin temp sensor to actuators to control modules. Then there is the possibility of a front heater core plugging up as our '11 standard left/right/ rear did with needing a new heater core for the front.

Nah, just an old FORMER US MARINE. I didn't want to go "big" and come across as some "uppity" sort! .... ROFL Actually, I'm not much of a "drinker" now for over 20 years other than for a special occasion! and yes I concur with the responses given and what was posted for the heat exchanger on the oil filter housing. May be best to replace the whole unit and seals.

Glas electrics are working for you. These latest quirks are unrelated, unless you POSSIBLY jarred a connection (or 2) like the electric throttle body or crank sensor, as they are in the general area of that wire.