5rebel9

VERY NICE paint work on those hubcaps! My compliments As for getting those "special lugnuts for them, YES Rock Auto is hard to beat even with some of the shipping prices they get roped into having to pass along with the parts cost. I use them exclusively for all my cars when able to "foresee" parts needs rather than going to the auto parts "box stores". AND those lug nuts are NOT solely for the Journeys, they are the SAME ones our old 04 NEON used for hubcaps. In fact I have a bunch of them to match up to the set of rims and "caps"that I still have for it.

Low coolant levels will mean AIR is in the cooling system AND AIR around the sensor for temp will make sensor misread for accuracy. But it sounds as if you have your own conclusions , so let us know what you do to remedy your problem. Good Luck to you

What kind of scanner? OBD11 reader not good enough, you need one that can read BODY Control Modules for this "check". and there are lots of you tubes about the heater core and how to do actuators. Do you hear a clicking noise from dash when you try and adjust settings? A sure sign of a failed actuator. BUT I have also come across one so badly failed that it did NOT click as gears and supporting shafts for them were so far busted that it didn't "click".

WHY do you now post of constantly having to fill the coolant? These motors are known for air entrapment in the cooling system and an air pocket getting trapped in the heater core will cause loss of heat. Maybe you could give a bit more info as to just what has been going on before you noticed the heat loss.

I don't mean to sound "crass" or insincere, but with the temp problem and being auto temp you really need to spend the money for a complete scan of all computer systems. could be any number of electrical issues from cabin temp sensor to actuators to control modules. Then there is the possibility of a front heater core plugging up as our '11 standard left/right/ rear did with needing a new heater core for the front.

Nah, just an old FORMER US MARINE. I didn't want to go "big" and come across as some "uppity" sort! .... ROFL Actually, I'm not much of a "drinker" now for over 20 years other than for a special occasion! and yes I concur with the responses given and what was posted for the heat exchanger on the oil filter housing. May be best to replace the whole unit and seals.

Glas electrics are working for you. These latest quirks are unrelated, unless you POSSIBLY jarred a connection (or 2) like the electric throttle body or crank sensor, as they are in the general area of that wire.

Yes, a very nice upgrade/repair part. I had one of those (all aluminium including cooler) installed to the motor of our recently bought 2014 which is working very nicely for us. Actually working nicely for the WIFE (her car)!

I'll settle for a Bud light thank you very much! Glad it worked out for you about the trans. Need some more time to contemplate about the new challenge.

By the pictures, that is a fusible link wire. These are NEVER used as a ground wire, it is used as a positive wire connection, and most likely is fastened to the positive heavy wire stud on the starter solenoid. Don't have a 2.4 model to look at of my own to say DEFINITIVLY.

TOO LATE TO HAVE DONE AN EDIT I meant not smooth like a CVT transmission.

I can't speak of the newer models like YOURS, but under what driving driving conditions and are you manually shifting the gears? YES all will feel some strong "tug" as they normally go into the lowest gear, these are not totally smooth like a CCV trans of some other make vehicles. And hard accelerating will also have noticeable shift feel.

NEW or used and unpaired to your vehicle? I just find it curious for TPMS to fail other than the sensors themselves. IF I have just one position that drops out as you post of, I rotate that wheel to a different spot and see if the drop out goes to the new position. Then I know it's a bad sensor. Also have to drive at speed and some distance for sensors to "pair up" and start reading. Just trying to be sure of you following good diagnostic processes to track down the problem, rather than "shotgun" parts.

So, a 3.5 V6 motored older NE USA (and probably rustbelt area) DJ with how many miles? Your description sends loud signals of under heat up conditions of high resistance of the + side, not the ground. Common for the + battery cable connector and battery post to develop an insulating "scum" that can show your symptom. Also connections under the TIPM that go out to trans and starter(among many other things) can loose good pin connection, Have also heard of transmission range sensor(gear position indicator/neutral safety) may not be working quite right. Try putting into N and see if it will start Also due to age, check shift cable connector to trans for wear that may sometimes not fully engage the P position INSIDE the trans with the trans. range position sensor. LOTS of "possibles" here, but I would start out as listed ... GOOD LUCK and report back how you fare out with this.

Interesting conclusion about TPMS MODULE, care to share how you came to such a decision? Did you have the LR tire sensor tested? Also could be a bad wire from the receiver for that corner to the module.

That light function is incorporated into the door latch assembly, not a separate switch. I would start by checking for a broken wire in the rubber boot between the door and the main body of the car.

As my last badly spelled post said.... I have not done this job MYSELF. But By coming back counter clockwise moved any slack in the chain to the wrong side and thus probably at least a tooth off somewhere in the gears alignment. I've done many single cam timing chains and timing belts in my day, and this is why they always say rotate clockwise 2 revolutions and recheck ALL timing mark s for alignment.

I so not have personal knowledge or experience in performing this work. BUT from a close friend ASE master tech & shop owner) who has done these is that with the VVT system these have that it is critical to go by the book on setting timing chain/cam marks. EVERY chance that things will go "south" when using your own marks. Only way to check is to open it back up and align the marks accordingly AND don't forget to have the crank gear in align also. GOOD LUCK and let us know how you "make out" with this problem.

Depending on how the rockers were replaced, IF cams were removed and extreme attention not given to timing chain/marks alignment, that could be a possibility of not being in proper "timing". OR as posted before of wiring not fully connected.

This member you are asking has NOT BEEN ON since Jan of 2018 with NO REPORT BACK. I doubt they will reply to you here. Maybe you could start your own thread of YOUR problem, and give good specifics of symptoms/codes/and previous maint done to get responses to try and help YOU out.

As most all members here are DJ owners and not immersed in knowing all possible combinations of a particular trim level (2015 RT), Could you please post which engine size and if FWD or AWD? How many Km's or miles on the vehicle or any recent maint done (BESIDES OIL CHANGES) would be helpful to have members make some meaningful suggestions.

Is this '15 DJ a 4 or 6 cylinder engine model? Most likely there is air entrapped in the cooing system.

Didn't you do that the other day when you had the work done? YES his direction is proper for doing with new sensors. SOMETIMES they "set" pretty quickly in speed/distance and other times they may need the max time(50mph/20 min straight driving) to pair in with the TPMS system.

I would do it TODAY (Saturday 10/22) as the weather is wonderful for our area, EXCEPT that my daughter and 5mo old granddaughter are on their way out to visit AND I'm sitting with my "Ellie Mae" while wife and daughter enjoy an afternoon out! With the '14 DJ ! MY time with the granddaughter takes PRECEDENCE!

Thanks for clarifying the invoice. YES at this point it sounds to be a defective NEW sensor being it is acting up in a different wheel position. Let us know how things work out for you.