5rebel9

First trick is when taking out the "to floor" duct ... It's a 2 piece duct thet "pops" apart. The section next to the "stinking bracket" will give easy acees to remove the part that latches to the HVAC box. Next trick I did was to slice the bracket you describe with an air powered small cut off tool , just to the short sides of that bracket. then bet the lower carea of the bracket inward with vice grips so when bending back towards the steering shaft, they didn't bind. Once sliced like that the bracket will bend quite easily with pliers. I also bent the mount tab at the bottom easily with pliers to gain the last 1/2 " needed to slide out the core. All straightens back nicely for reassembly. I initially opened the crimps and popped the tubes(lower one first) with an empty 2lb coffee can placed below to let the core drain into. NARY a drop fell onto the floor, but I did have an old bath towel there also(just in case) I did NOT drain the coolant down before starting the job! The replacement core had much stouter aluminum metal for the cores tube crimp area, so I decided to cut the tubes and use 5/8" heater hose. Yes it's a tight fit to slide, but CARPENTERS TRICK of a light smear of "DAWN" dish soap helped greatly in getting things positioned for good "fit" Watch out for the size type screw clamps being used. I used "heavy duty" 5/8" clamps, and had to grind out some plastic of the floor duct (has a seies of "nubs) for vibration controlwhere it sits against the tubes and HVAC BOX to get the duct back in and fit flush for the phillips screw to go back in. This took me the most time as it was multiple trial cuts to get right. That cut off tool made things pretty quick, but didn't want to go too far to fast and ruin the duct. NOT that I WANT to do more of these jobs, but I'd say that the next time would be a lot quicker, now that I've done this one! And I had just happened to be asked by my friend on Friday of HOW I went about trying to FLUSH the core last fall(which helped some but not enough) with CLR. I Think he's got a possible poor heat job coming in and actually wants me to do it for him. I'm supposed to call him Monday and tell him what I thought about the replacement job(and how I did it). I HOPE THIS HELPS YOU AND OTHERS THAT MAY WANT TO TRY THIS JOB.

AMAZON or EBAY or from your local DEALER You could also try Dodgeparts.com, but these type websites are actually individual DEALER parts department that can access whole Dodge parts system.

As in the last words of Jesus when he died on the cross ... IT IS FINISHED ! Better partr of 5 hours with my lack of contortionist body and taking my time to not risk breaking anything. Found a few tricks NOT discussed on you tubes, and DEFINITELY different than the '08 -'10 models. But got the job done and MAYBE when time permits I'll write up the couple trcks I used doing the job. Right now, I'm WORN OUT and ready to CRASH! OH, BTW I also got roped into topping up the R-134a (1 1/4 lb cans) to get his A/C cooling again that he just told me of last night!

T-stat is one year old and temps there are fine. But with 217+k miles, I'm not about to try removing the dash to do the job. YES I'm going to cut the tubes and hose connect the new one in. Just relieved to know for certain now that it is the core, as some other forums have talked about broken blend doors that HAVE TO pull the dash to remove/repair the HVAC box.

Fimally got the car for TWO DAYS! The pass side blend door and linkages are OK, it is DEFINITELY the HEATER CORE. Going to do my best to replace it tomorrow (Saturday).

You have posted of doing s lot of work, yet very little of any warning lights or computer trouble codes IF the CEL icon is on while driving. BUT in my "book" at the mileage and age of your ride, I would believe a throttle body. They are a known weak point on the 2.4 motor. And that is the primary idle control when the engine is loaded down by A/c, coming to a stop and such as you post,

OR you have a son that likes to try and activate the ABS on DRY pavement during HARD braking!.....Like MY son. : )

According to rockauto.com listings for 2012 . they could be single piston front brake calipers, with different size pads than the "HEAVY DUTY"(which means it has TWO[double] PISTON front calipers. Also the rotors will be a larger diameterto work with the much larger size double piston front brakes. These parts do NOT intermix with each other, so be sure of what is on YOUR vehicle.

WOW, what a back story! With all the vacuum and oil leaks, it's a wonder it ran at all. That much oil going thru the intake manifold has got to have caused carbon build up in the intake valves which can cause a misfire by soaking up injected fuel so nothing to fire on. Sounds like a good fuel additive like SEAFOAM and some steady running MAY help "clear " things up for smooth running on all 4 cylinders.

Well at least you now know WHY the lights are coming on! Just as I said that a proper scanner will pull the VERY SPECIFIC codes as to what is wrong. Now to follow thru with the proper diagnostic steps to pinpoint the fault and repair accordingly, sometimes it can just be a poor connection to the module that sets things "awry".

Can't speak for a common issue to yours by your location, meaning rust and corrosion being in the Southern area. Here in rustbelt NY the TONE RINGS on the outer front CV joints rust and close down the signal that the speed sensors you clean read from. Yes an OBD11 reader that does not have capability to read BCM/ABS/SRS codes is of NO HELP, and what most autozone and others offer for FREE TESTS. A REPUTABLE INDEPENDANT shop will have a proper scanner and not charge that much to just pull out the codes to see what is wrong. These codes are VERY specific to fault, unlike many of the OBD11 engine codes.

YUP, as I posted that an option or higher trim level. The CREW is derinitely a top end trim . I never said it DID NOT exist, Just that the SXT did not come thru with the feature.

How about a little more background maint history, like last time the spark plugs were replaced or coil (s) tested? Could also be a fauly fuel injector. Nothing hard to get to and do on a 2.4 motor.

Front pass. seat MAY be an option or found on highest trim level. Our 14 sxt DOES NOT do such.

GEE, I suppose you mean the SECOND ROW seat? My wife just this evening was able to "fold" both second row seats down on her own, and yes they do NOT go completely FLAT like the THIRD row seats or flat like the rear cargo area of the TWO ROW models. The front passengers seat does NOT fold at all and is not meant to.

I'm not positively sure, but I think the semsor has to be "calibrated" (paired to) the system with a high level scanner/tester with such capabilities. Laymans terms ...not a plug and play item.

I've only been around here for about 2 years, but have not seen any manuals posted into the forum here or for that matter none of the other model specific sites I also particpater on. That would be a BIG helpto me seeing I have an '11 and a '14 to now keep up maint./repair on. Electrical /wiring and trans/AWD would be most beneficial for me.. That you are willing to offer is a VERY NICE gesture if such is capable on the forum!

YUP, I'd believe those figures if NON highway (55mph) driving. constant up down speeds and braking, idling at stop signs/lights will show horrible mileage. Not many vehicles can deliver higher mileage unless you have one with a tiny motor and only FWD econobox, NOT a heavy vehicle like a DJ. I'm out in country road driving and very little "stop and go" type driving and we average 22mpg even with the a/c going. on BOTH our '11 and '14 3.6 AWD's

After finally finding my thread here on the forum ..... while my friend is "mending" from hip surgery I had TIME to really talk with him about this situation. YES I've checked that the pass. side blend door actuator is working AND moving the white arm that actuator hook up to. BUT he says that now I need to remove the actuator AND arm to check that the pins and groove on the HVAC box side are actually there and were aligned into the groove of the white "arm" on that side ot HEAVEN FORBID that either is broken. Says he has spare "arms for my taking, but both of us are now concerned that the posts that ride in the inboard side groove may be broken. Going to have to finangle the "11 Journey away from my son for a fair amount of time to get into the job and check this out ... BRFORE I finally go for the heater core replacement I had been preparing to do!

I take it that without searching your past postings that you have the 2.4 motor? How about recent spark plugs/ throttle body cleaning? The "skidding tires" icon light comes up on both our'11 and 14 once in a blue moon and goes away, I think possible clockspring issue due to heat humidity. I'd not worry much for your situation there as this should not effect driveability. YES you may have had some water in the last fill up as you posted of your recent weather. Put a can of Seafoam in the tank and check up on your maint history. Spark plugs and throttle bodies are a common weak point to these 4 cyl. motors.

So you actually RESCANNED for codes since this trans problem ocurred and no other codes than for your fan issue? IF NOT, I suggest you have it scanned again and post any and all codes by their format number and NOT by descrpyion. My wild guess is a stuck/malfunctioning TCC SOLENOID (torque converter clutch). Not a large job, but one needs a little experience wporking inside the trannie ( does not need trans removal to do). BUT I also suggest filter and oil change for the transmission.

Welcome to the Forum to you located in the South American continent! Power folding mirrors are a rare option here in the North america market, so not a lot of help for you. BUT yes, the motor to fold the mirroe would be INSIDE the mirror housing behind the mirror glass ....most likely. Also more common to have a broken wire thru the door or door jamb than for a bad motor.

I had that STRONG suspicion of that when I replied to you earlier. But your post was for a specific request rather than help to diagnose or fix a problem. Glad you did get things "squared away" with your Journey!

Looks NICE! Wish I had the $$$ to do such upgrades, but fuel costs have sapped that dream away .... LOL

YES. If the CAR's Battery goes dead, the fobs will not work....nothing will work. You posted of a lenghty time of having interior lights and such on, a sure fire clue of a weak main car battery.