5rebel9

Huge job but, I'd bet with the history given that the correlation code is from the cam gears NOT being in alginment on reassembly of the work done. In my book ... it is time for the PRO's to dig into it. .... SORRY!

Yup, I'd not push facyory spec plugs beyond 60k miles on these motors. Have you ever cleaned the gunk out of the throttle body butterfly area? The throttle body is electrically opened and closed by means of multiple plastic gears that over time wear out and give poor/ no response to pedal inputs and turn on the lightning bolt icon(which is specifically for the throttle body). also the CRANKSHAFT position sensor is a bit tricky to operation without always throwing a code, but OTHER engine sensors react to a dying CPS. Thus the suggestion to have a good scan done.

Although you say no CEL, a scan of the computer MAY show something. These 2.4 motors have a few "quirks" that cause poor running/starting that may not be a direct fuel problem yet NOT turn on the CEL. Also how many miles on this vehicle, as there are some maint. things(like spark plugs) that can also show similar symptoms.

Don't know where you're located climate wise, BUT your description of symptoms is a classic sign of the evaporator core in the HVAC box in the dash freezing over from excess condensation, This can happen with many different makes of vehicles. One possibility is that you may may running too long in the recirculation mode. another is weong pressures on the high and low sides of the A/C system. Too much or little R-134a in the system for ambient (outside) air temp. I've not heard of this problem often for the DJ's, but was a common problem with certain KIA SUV's. Does the A/C piping under the hood frost over when in use? I've NOT seen them to do that on a properly charged working system

Before I decided to buy our '14 AWD a couple months ago, I also looked at a TWO ROW 4cyl model. I wanted the 3 row over the 4 cyl. TWO row that was also available. The third row can be put in WITH A LOT OF WORK with all parts from a donor car. REMEMBER, you also have to install rear seatbelts and the rear trim panels ARE DIFFERENT, so you need to replace those as well. My friend and I discussed and looked at lenght about doing that to the TWO row I looked at, but because of the smaller 4 cyl motor I opted for the 3.6 AWD he also had. Not sure of your states TITLE info, but in NY it has to be stated for seating capacity. IF the same there there may be questions when they look at vin and see it was made as a TWO row. Here something like that requires a special inspection and documentation of parts source and $$. IF involved in an accident, and not found proper;y documentd, we here would be in BIG TROUBLE with our WONDERFUL BLUE STATE GOVERNMENT. PERHAPS you could post an interior pic showing just what you do have for other better responses.

How many miles on the vehicle? And I take it a 4 cyl motor? I'd be willing to bet odds that it is a leaking intake manifold gasket to the cylinder head.

I agree rith what you posted John/Horace, Buying something from out of the area USED with no history is always a gamble. BUT this overall body confition of this DJ was well worth it, I spent the better part of my life as an auto tech so not afraid to get "into" vehicles for repairs. When a person is jumping into a FIRST TIME of a certain repair, a good tech/DIY person will amass as much info about the job BEFORE "digging in".That is what I had done thru all this SAGA while TRYING to have weather and scheduling coincide to be able to "GIT ER DONE". I had pretty much concluded from date of purchase that it needed a heater core, but also had possible control issues in my mind due to info searching and lack of "play time" with the car.

I have a sister that has a "13 2.4, and we live in HILL country. She is "content" with performance until some hills they have to go up from a near stop. She is not the best at keeping ANY vehicle maintained properly(they don't DIY) and she recently had to replace the motor due to running it out of oil! Her husband HATES the DJ, says it's a dog (and not a Greyhound) with performance. Says it's only good for inner city "puddle jumping". YES the 2.4 is easy to maintain/repair, But I myself like the 3.6 and got both ours with over150k miles on them when we got them. I'm about 6 grand below for both to what they are still paying for for their base 2.4!

Well my son has driven the '11 DJ for 3 days now and reports that the A/C is working FINE now, and the heat is much better than before as he needed to clear windshield fog last evening due to the humidity and nearly 1" of rain we got yesterday. Says pass side was a little slower to clear than drivers side, but a LOT better than before changing the heater core. OF COURSE the "acid test" will be when we get actual COLD temps to see just what we gained with the "job"! NO LEAKS, DRIPS or ERRORS !

My Lucerne is fine for the light towing I do. BUT the main towing use was for hauling my annual firewood loads , was WELL handled by my past Minivans being able to haul without troubles up to 4 face cord of firewood per load.I'm not comfortable to try and do similar with the Buick OR either Journey, and yes I have both at the same time. One for son ('11" and one for the wife ('14)

Same boat I am in with you 2late4u ! I'm good with automotive and figuring out THEIR electrical "glitches" , BUT with "smart phones, Picture posting and "linking" things, I'm a complete DUNCE!

Yeah, the'11 is the same way, but that's my son's problem to resolve on his own ,,, AFTER I figure out a fix for the wife's '14 and he can then COPY the "fix" to his!

I've been using Peak Blue Mountain Long life for all vehicles since we got the journey and don't see a problem with it. Remember it had almost 180k Miles on it when we got it and coolant was DEFINITLY not the "pink" color type. The core came from rockauto, and I believe the mfg. was SPECTRE. IF the metal thicknes was the same as the plugged up one, I would have tried just crimping the old tubes to the new core. I gave ONE TRY at an easy to get to crimp of the new core, and it bent my screwdriver shank without moving the crimp away. SO CUT THE TUBES and used hose. And NO I did NOT cut the core open to see the insides, The old core is now at my friends place and he says HE will cut it open and look at it when he has some spare time.

Well it's the last week before the "unofficial" end of summer(Labor day) . Time to start looking into 4 rims and new SNOW TIRES for the '14 ! The '11 is all set for it's winter "shoes" The '14 has had 2,500 miles put on it so far and is running GREAT. Just have to secure the both front seat side plastic panels that hold the controls AND get busy about putting in a remote start system (which I have not even looked for yet).

First trick is when taking out the "to floor" duct ... It's a 2 piece duct thet "pops" apart. The section next to the "stinking bracket" will give easy acees to remove the part that latches to the HVAC box. Next trick I did was to slice the bracket you describe with an air powered small cut off tool , just to the short sides of that bracket. then bet the lower carea of the bracket inward with vice grips so when bending back towards the steering shaft, they didn't bind. Once sliced like that the bracket will bend quite easily with pliers. I also bent the mount tab at the bottom easily with pliers to gain the last 1/2 " needed to slide out the core. All straightens back nicely for reassembly. I initially opened the crimps and popped the tubes(lower one first) with an empty 2lb coffee can placed below to let the core drain into. NARY a drop fell onto the floor, but I did have an old bath towel there also(just in case) I did NOT drain the coolant down before starting the job! The replacement core had much stouter aluminum metal for the cores tube crimp area, so I decided to cut the tubes and use 5/8" heater hose. Yes it's a tight fit to slide, but CARPENTERS TRICK of a light smear of "DAWN" dish soap helped greatly in getting things positioned for good "fit" Watch out for the size type screw clamps being used. I used "heavy duty" 5/8" clamps, and had to grind out some plastic of the floor duct (has a seies of "nubs) for vibration controlwhere it sits against the tubes and HVAC BOX to get the duct back in and fit flush for the phillips screw to go back in. This took me the most time as it was multiple trial cuts to get right. That cut off tool made things pretty quick, but didn't want to go too far to fast and ruin the duct. NOT that I WANT to do more of these jobs, but I'd say that the next time would be a lot quicker, now that I've done this one! And I had just happened to be asked by my friend on Friday of HOW I went about trying to FLUSH the core last fall(which helped some but not enough) with CLR. I Think he's got a possible poor heat job coming in and actually wants me to do it for him. I'm supposed to call him Monday and tell him what I thought about the replacement job(and how I did it). I HOPE THIS HELPS YOU AND OTHERS THAT MAY WANT TO TRY THIS JOB.

AMAZON or EBAY or from your local DEALER You could also try Dodgeparts.com, but these type websites are actually individual DEALER parts department that can access whole Dodge parts system.

As in the last words of Jesus when he died on the cross ... IT IS FINISHED ! Better partr of 5 hours with my lack of contortionist body and taking my time to not risk breaking anything. Found a few tricks NOT discussed on you tubes, and DEFINITELY different than the '08 -'10 models. But got the job done and MAYBE when time permits I'll write up the couple trcks I used doing the job. Right now, I'm WORN OUT and ready to CRASH! OH, BTW I also got roped into topping up the R-134a (1 1/4 lb cans) to get his A/C cooling again that he just told me of last night!

T-stat is one year old and temps there are fine. But with 217+k miles, I'm not about to try removing the dash to do the job. YES I'm going to cut the tubes and hose connect the new one in. Just relieved to know for certain now that it is the core, as some other forums have talked about broken blend doors that HAVE TO pull the dash to remove/repair the HVAC box.

Fimally got the car for TWO DAYS! The pass side blend door and linkages are OK, it is DEFINITELY the HEATER CORE. Going to do my best to replace it tomorrow (Saturday).

You have posted of doing s lot of work, yet very little of any warning lights or computer trouble codes IF the CEL icon is on while driving. BUT in my "book" at the mileage and age of your ride, I would believe a throttle body. They are a known weak point on the 2.4 motor. And that is the primary idle control when the engine is loaded down by A/c, coming to a stop and such as you post,

OR you have a son that likes to try and activate the ABS on DRY pavement during HARD braking!.....Like MY son. : )

According to rockauto.com listings for 2012 . they could be single piston front brake calipers, with different size pads than the "HEAVY DUTY"(which means it has TWO[double] PISTON front calipers. Also the rotors will be a larger diameterto work with the much larger size double piston front brakes. These parts do NOT intermix with each other, so be sure of what is on YOUR vehicle.

WOW, what a back story! With all the vacuum and oil leaks, it's a wonder it ran at all. That much oil going thru the intake manifold has got to have caused carbon build up in the intake valves which can cause a misfire by soaking up injected fuel so nothing to fire on. Sounds like a good fuel additive like SEAFOAM and some steady running MAY help "clear " things up for smooth running on all 4 cylinders.

Well at least you now know WHY the lights are coming on! Just as I said that a proper scanner will pull the VERY SPECIFIC codes as to what is wrong. Now to follow thru with the proper diagnostic steps to pinpoint the fault and repair accordingly, sometimes it can just be a poor connection to the module that sets things "awry".

Can't speak for a common issue to yours by your location, meaning rust and corrosion being in the Southern area. Here in rustbelt NY the TONE RINGS on the outer front CV joints rust and close down the signal that the speed sensors you clean read from. Yes an OBD11 reader that does not have capability to read BCM/ABS/SRS codes is of NO HELP, and what most autozone and others offer for FREE TESTS. A REPUTABLE INDEPENDANT shop will have a proper scanner and not charge that much to just pull out the codes to see what is wrong. These codes are VERY specific to fault, unlike many of the OBD11 engine codes.