5rebel9

Thanks on the congrats about our first grandchild (girl), and yes it is a JOYOUS event for all. Daughter and son in law now get a tax credit after 2 years of high taxation rates....LOL I lost my 25 yr. love affair with the Chrysler minivans after the redesign of the '07(?) model year. and stilll miss what I could do with my last '04 T&C. But am beginning to really enjoy my current ride ('10 Lucerne) This '14 Journey should be ready to roll by mid June without remote start installed, which will be done before WINTER rolls around AGAIN.

It's a GO FOR IT. She liked it and said the color looks like NY State Police deep blue and when ready, our driveway will be PATRIOTIC by having RED, WHITE and BLUE vewhicles in it when all three cars are home at the same time!

LOL! she's been after me to find her another ride since last autumn. Problem has been her "wish list" of features has been hard to fullfill. She finally narrowed down to it must have remote start. This one does NOT have it, but my friend and I are researching for kits to install that feature. Also since we became FIRST TIME GRANDPARENTS 3 weeks ago, the very latest "must have" is now 3 row seating.....Minivan or Journey and not a 4dr. sedan anymore.

Son's '11 Journey is doing FINE, just still trying to coordinate time to replace the heater core. BUT! The BIG NEWS is that my friend aquitred a '14 V6 AWD SXT in a deep blue color (wife's favorite). I got a quick look at it 2 days ago as it was flat bedded in for a blown motor, and it looks VERY NICE! Taking the wife to look at it after work for her approval to buy as a replacement for her rusting out Pontiac G6. With good used motor installed and whatever it may need for NY state inspection, ballpark price is between $5-6 grand, wish me good luck with the wife liking this one as much as she likes the '11 in the family!

They were that style, but they were 17" rims, too bad he did not get the other pair from the people he got the pair from. Those people had given the other pair to a family member who crashed that car anyway. The pair came to my friend already mounted with STUDDED Snows on them and because of not being able to get 2 more, those studded snows went on the back of our Journey mounted on our rims. I then got a pair of matching studded snows for our front rims. All said and done now he has 2 complete sets of tires/rims for summer and for winter. No more tire dismounting to worry about.

Those are the style rims I was hoping to get for our Journey. My friend had a pair but could nor locate another pair at a reasonable price. He came up with a complete set of standard solid spoke alloys(standard type) with 4 new TPMS sensors for $500.00 along with mounting the new summer tires I got for $600.00. My son is paying me back the costs being it is his car. I just have to make a garbage dump run to get rid of the "stuff" from COMPLETING the "must do" honey do list. Still have a LONG list of thru the summer "honey do" chores to get done!

I FINALLY got the studded snow/rim package taken off the Journey (a week late by NY) and put on summer tire/rim package Friday evening! Very HAPPY that it's staying light out later now to accomplish the task! This gives me the WHOLE day today to do the "honey you MUST do list TODAY! LOL

IF you flexed wires at the "rubber boot" in the door "jamb" and it worked once,Then from experience you do have breaking wires inside there. Not real easy to get in there, but it can be done and inspect and repair any wires in there. Just depends on how mechanically inclinrd you are to overcome the situation. Also the contacts in the master switch {drivers door) ARE known to get "finicky" in operation, and not just to the Journey but also cousin Avenger/200's that use similar switches and door wiring issues.

YES, I had read that thread AND a few others on this forum and looking for you tubes about the problem without much luck OR definitive yes this was the cure answers. Our Journey has been doing FINE sincew and just need time and weather to cooperate to replace the heater core it needs. For a ride with 210k miles, it is well liked in the family. Even though not quite as cargo/towing ability of my old Dodge/Chry. minivans (LWB models). thanks for responding!

IF it is blowing hot air at the feet in ALL positions of the position control dial, then I would conclude that a door inside the HVAC box is disconnnected from a link of position rod that works only when called for floor airflow(hot or cold) on the control knob. It is not a separate actuator just for floor position.

Please DO keep us posted as to how things "work out" for you and your Journey.

IF you mean REMOTE FOB start....has the yellow check engine light been on when driving ther car before your posting here? IF SO the remote start function is DEACTIVATED due to check engine light and trouble codes being stored in the cars computer. IF all lights(interior or headlights) work brightly, then it may not be FULLY in the PARK position of the gear shift. A 2018 with a 4 to almost 5 year old battery(original?) is about at it's end of life expectancy. Let us know if a jump start or recharging the battery gets it started. and strongly consider replacing the battery. And WELCOME TO THE FORUM!

Did you just "shotgun" parts imto it without getting ECM codes to point you into just where system fault may lay? NOT the smart move with todays vehicles(gets EXPENSIVE). Some later years (as yours) were known for faulty Crnak position sensor and due to location IF an AWD model is almost covered over by the PTO for rear drive. It can be replaced with a good amount of patience and flexibility of hands/arm. ALSO certain sensors may need to be "mated" to the ECM to operate when replaced by use of a high level scanner/programmer that most good shops now have(rather than DEALER $$$).

LED or not for the bulb, check the switch. draw is a draw. And you are correwct about the lack of interior fuse panel for your year, it was redesigned for one starting with the 2011 model year.

For the year model you have, try the Easy THING first. iT IS WIDELY DISCUSSED ON THE FORUM THAT THE GLOVE BOX LIGHT SWITCH GOES OUT OF ALIGNMENT AND KEEPS THE GLOVE BOX LIGHT TURNED ON. I'm to LAZY to retype this....My big clumsy fingers hit the caps lock button. No shouting was meant.

Welcome to the Forum! Yes you have a mostly common problem with the early gen Journey and a few of it's cousin vehicles(200/Sebring/Avenger/ Dakota). This problem can have a number of causes to have to track down(and it's not quick and easy). Most have found either a worn door latch/or wiring to one OR a faulty circuit inside the TIPM/ Fuse panel out in the engine compartment. GOOD LUCK!

Yes, I forgot to say that coolant temp is running at about 195(up to 204) also I know better to NOT gripe while coolant temp is still low.. I know I have the "traditional" clogged core for right side heat, maybe if I could ever get that "roundtoit" time and change the core that thing would be much improved. But we've had to drive it in temps reading as low as -15f and it's been downright COLD in the car, even up to 20 minutes of 55mph driving time. Windshield does "defrost still, but if placing a hand near those vents it is COLD. Non A/C recirc mode brings back good interior heat(dash/dash/floor}. Any setting that automatically uses outside air draw is COLD. Medical crisis is my 87yr. old Dad suffered a major stroke and then heart attack on 1/2/22 and is currently paralized on left side. Been with him 6 days a week during the days. His mind is as sharp as ever, but can't convince him that he can't try and do things as normal. Puts a strain on all the family, as he's "fallen" 3 times trying to get out of bed or wheelchair by himself. .

Yes I'm back. Been a crazy 2 months of 2022 due to a family medical crisis and multiple sub 0*F temps. I look to the long term members here for their experiences with getting heat in the extreme cold. I know the heater core on our '11 model needs replacing, but have found that even the drivers side is getting cold when using the outside air source(defrost or otherwise). Tried using recirc mode without the A/C and got really decent heat back on the drivers side with some heat on the pass. side. These conditions are from minimum driving times of 20 minutes or longer, and NOT from short or city driving speed "hops". I'm wondering if the outside air INTAKE may be a bit too large, allowing too much outside air in thus overpowering what the heater core can produce?

I like to start my replies to these type questions with the basics. HOW did they "diagnose" the car to reach their "opinions"? Were tires checked for a broken belt or bent rim? How about springs and rear suspension bushings? Did anyone even bother to drain some of the rear diff gear oil and check for metal contamination/ With that many miles diff(rear) and power take off (front) for rear driveshaft are due for drain and fresh lubes anyway.

How many miles on your 10 year old ride? CLEAN battery cable ends on the battery AND a good clean negative connection at the drivers strut tower stud are a must Re check them. The 2.4 alternator uses a decoupling pulley instead of a solid pulley found on most other vehicles. It is known to wear out with higher miles (about 80k -100k) and will cause lack of charge output. Sounds like it is time for a proper alternator test to be done and POSSIBLY time for a new alternator.

2011 AWD Mainstreet, now showing 203,450 on the clock. Only current glitch is that I need to replace the heater core( have the part, just too darned cold out to do in my driveway) LOVE this car.

YES, the temp selector (cold to hot) on the dash could be bad. It tells the actuator to move. There is also a HVAC control module mounted behinf the radio/infotainment screen inside the dash that could have a poor connection. IF you have a known good actuator, try plugging that on and try your controls. And as said before, our '11 model can also adjust heat level for left and right side on the radio screen(4.3" unit). Try that and see if actuator works. IF not you'll have to start checking the press heat control switch panel or deeper in the main HVAC control module.

As I was alluding to in my first response... If actuator "bench tested" good then the problem should lay in the connecion/wires or the control switch. Do all other HVAC controls work? and ONLY driver side temp not ?

Would I be correct that you mean blend door actuator and not the blend door itself? Our '11 model has 2 ways to adjust temp, manual push button for hot/cold and finger swipe for hot/cold on the infotainment screen (ours is 4.3" small screen).

OUCH !!!!!! Thanks for the update, sorry it's SO major a repair on your particular circumstance!