5rebel9

YUP, as I posted that an option or higher trim level. The CREW is derinitely a top end trim . I never said it DID NOT exist, Just that the SXT did not come thru with the feature.

How about a little more background maint history, like last time the spark plugs were replaced or coil (s) tested? Could also be a fauly fuel injector. Nothing hard to get to and do on a 2.4 motor.

Front pass. seat MAY be an option or found on highest trim level. Our 14 sxt DOES NOT do such.

GEE, I suppose you mean the SECOND ROW seat? My wife just this evening was able to "fold" both second row seats down on her own, and yes they do NOT go completely FLAT like the THIRD row seats or flat like the rear cargo area of the TWO ROW models. The front passengers seat does NOT fold at all and is not meant to.

I'm not positively sure, but I think the semsor has to be "calibrated" (paired to) the system with a high level scanner/tester with such capabilities. Laymans terms ...not a plug and play item.

I've only been around here for about 2 years, but have not seen any manuals posted into the forum here or for that matter none of the other model specific sites I also particpater on. That would be a BIG helpto me seeing I have an '11 and a '14 to now keep up maint./repair on. Electrical /wiring and trans/AWD would be most beneficial for me.. That you are willing to offer is a VERY NICE gesture if such is capable on the forum!

YUP, I'd believe those figures if NON highway (55mph) driving. constant up down speeds and braking, idling at stop signs/lights will show horrible mileage. Not many vehicles can deliver higher mileage unless you have one with a tiny motor and only FWD econobox, NOT a heavy vehicle like a DJ. I'm out in country road driving and very little "stop and go" type driving and we average 22mpg even with the a/c going. on BOTH our '11 and '14 3.6 AWD's

After finally finding my thread here on the forum ..... while my friend is "mending" from hip surgery I had TIME to really talk with him about this situation. YES I've checked that the pass. side blend door actuator is working AND moving the white arm that actuator hook up to. BUT he says that now I need to remove the actuator AND arm to check that the pins and groove on the HVAC box side are actually there and were aligned into the groove of the white "arm" on that side ot HEAVEN FORBID that either is broken. Says he has spare "arms for my taking, but both of us are now concerned that the posts that ride in the inboard side groove may be broken. Going to have to finangle the "11 Journey away from my son for a fair amount of time to get into the job and check this out ... BRFORE I finally go for the heater core replacement I had been preparing to do!

I take it that without searching your past postings that you have the 2.4 motor? How about recent spark plugs/ throttle body cleaning? The "skidding tires" icon light comes up on both our'11 and 14 once in a blue moon and goes away, I think possible clockspring issue due to heat humidity. I'd not worry much for your situation there as this should not effect driveability. YES you may have had some water in the last fill up as you posted of your recent weather. Put a can of Seafoam in the tank and check up on your maint history. Spark plugs and throttle bodies are a common weak point to these 4 cyl. motors.

So you actually RESCANNED for codes since this trans problem ocurred and no other codes than for your fan issue? IF NOT, I suggest you have it scanned again and post any and all codes by their format number and NOT by descrpyion. My wild guess is a stuck/malfunctioning TCC SOLENOID (torque converter clutch). Not a large job, but one needs a little experience wporking inside the trannie ( does not need trans removal to do). BUT I also suggest filter and oil change for the transmission.

Welcome to the Forum to you located in the South American continent! Power folding mirrors are a rare option here in the North america market, so not a lot of help for you. BUT yes, the motor to fold the mirroe would be INSIDE the mirror housing behind the mirror glass ....most likely. Also more common to have a broken wire thru the door or door jamb than for a bad motor.

I had that STRONG suspicion of that when I replied to you earlier. But your post was for a specific request rather than help to diagnose or fix a problem. Glad you did get things "squared away" with your Journey!

Looks NICE! Wish I had the $$$ to do such upgrades, but fuel costs have sapped that dream away .... LOL

YES. If the CAR's Battery goes dead, the fobs will not work....nothing will work. You posted of a lenghty time of having interior lights and such on, a sure fire clue of a weak main car battery.

I hope you are working on your Journey's situation and not just being a "one post wonder". Also meant to say that by DROPPING the pan, you will know right away that it's BAD if you find bits of metal and grindings laying in the pan. That is the place to start looking for any auto trans. .... When are you going to send me my BEER??????

I take it that you RECENTLY purchased this Journey in "used condition"? Probably a dying battery that needs recharge for things to function. BUT if you know for sure the AGE in years of the battery, and more than 4 years old REPLACE IT and CLEAN and dielectric grease the coneections to the battery.

-A '11 model with no odometer mileage posted OR if you have ever had the trans FILTER or oil replaced. Do NOT "power flush" the trans oil, it WILL cause more problems Frop the pan and change the filter and replenish the ATF +4 trans oil. An original filter gets "dirty" and reduces needed flow when "hot" (warmed up from use) thus starving the rest of the trans from needed lubricant. START THER (it is also the least invasive and expensive thing to do.

I'm not that familiar with the security light situation as to exact "reset" process. BUT if battery is very low on charge AND it tells you to leave the key in the RUN position, it will quickly drain out the charge in the battery and fail to complete the verification that the message said. You've got to make sure of good clean connection s at the battery and get a good charge into it FIRST. Also which motor under the hood, helpful for members to know.

IF I understand your situation correctly.... The "spindle" is the part of the wiper/motor linkage and those splines can be "cleaned up to grip as they are a hard metal compared to the pot metel used on the wiper arm that fastens to it. The wiper arm can be replace without exceesive cost(unless you are extrememly financialy distressed). Try looking up rockauto.com for price and availability to your ride. The wear and lack of "grip" is almost always found to be from the wiper arm connection TO THE SPINDLE, not as what you speak of in your posting of the "spindle".

Guess you can still say that I'm still "NEW TO THE JOURNEY" as both of ours are NOT my rides, they are for my wife and son. 99.5% of my traveling is done in MY Buick Lucerne! I had not realized that the wife had positioned the pass. seat to match where she keeps HER drivers seat when I removed the old actuator! A lot of wire harnesses near the actuator that the removal step made me think about an easier way to get back together without dropping screws or tools and having to go "fishing" for them! 0

Had to wait till after supper to install the actuator due to wife getting home late from work. GOSH, it was even easier to install when I moved the pass. seat backfully! I used a little carpenters trick with the screws of a dab of bar soap on the threads and could finger tighten them in(along with a bit of masking tape holding the screw to the #2 phillips long1.5" shank bit so they didn't fall off). then tightened with a 1/4" wrench on the "bit". Took me all of 15 minutes start to finish! Tested and watched recirc door movement and at actuator before putting glovebox back in too in that short time! ALL IS GOOD NOW with no other "glitches" showing up! Now to get the remote start kit ordered and installed!

In my "neck of the woods" and such poorly maintained CRATERED roadways, I never expect any tire to come close to "advertised" tread life. Perfect alignment or not. And I even turned down the offer to put 19's on our '14 sxt because of the same reason my friend feels of the shorter sidewall and less "damage free" impact durability to tire and rim. Yes 19's look good, but tire cost and our roads here made the decline decision a NO BRAINER.

The 3.6 motor has a stamped steel oil pan, hitting something can crack or puncture the oil pan. In rust belt area's these pans are known to rust out also and a "hit" will cause a leak all the easier. It is time for you to do as suggested and LOOK at YOUR vehicle to determine the cause to be able to effect a proper repair. You won't find the answer to your particular problem by any other means(internet, you tube, etc).

I don't contort around well anymore but used to working in "tight confines". I just knelt outside the pass. door and got my arms and head inside the car to get at it.

Drop the glovebox door and it's below the "drawstring" assembly for the the glovebox door. The actuator for recirculation air is right the on the end of the HVAC box. Found that dropping down the interior fuse panel give more working room for the 2 screws.