5rebel9

IF I understand your situation correctly.... The "spindle" is the part of the wiper/motor linkage and those splines can be "cleaned up to grip as they are a hard metal compared to the pot metel used on the wiper arm that fastens to it. The wiper arm can be replace without exceesive cost(unless you are extrememly financialy distressed). Try looking up rockauto.com for price and availability to your ride. The wear and lack of "grip" is almost always found to be from the wiper arm connection TO THE SPINDLE, not as what you speak of in your posting of the "spindle".

Guess you can still say that I'm still "NEW TO THE JOURNEY" as both of ours are NOT my rides, they are for my wife and son. 99.5% of my traveling is done in MY Buick Lucerne! I had not realized that the wife had positioned the pass. seat to match where she keeps HER drivers seat when I removed the old actuator! A lot of wire harnesses near the actuator that the removal step made me think about an easier way to get back together without dropping screws or tools and having to go "fishing" for them! 0

Had to wait till after supper to install the actuator due to wife getting home late from work. GOSH, it was even easier to install when I moved the pass. seat backfully! I used a little carpenters trick with the screws of a dab of bar soap on the threads and could finger tighten them in(along with a bit of masking tape holding the screw to the #2 phillips long1.5" shank bit so they didn't fall off). then tightened with a 1/4" wrench on the "bit". Took me all of 15 minutes start to finish! Tested and watched recirc door movement and at actuator before putting glovebox back in too in that short time! ALL IS GOOD NOW with no other "glitches" showing up! Now to get the remote start kit ordered and installed!

In my "neck of the woods" and such poorly maintained CRATERED roadways, I never expect any tire to come close to "advertised" tread life. Perfect alignment or not. And I even turned down the offer to put 19's on our '14 sxt because of the same reason my friend feels of the shorter sidewall and less "damage free" impact durability to tire and rim. Yes 19's look good, but tire cost and our roads here made the decline decision a NO BRAINER.

The 3.6 motor has a stamped steel oil pan, hitting something can crack or puncture the oil pan. In rust belt area's these pans are known to rust out also and a "hit" will cause a leak all the easier. It is time for you to do as suggested and LOOK at YOUR vehicle to determine the cause to be able to effect a proper repair. You won't find the answer to your particular problem by any other means(internet, you tube, etc).

I don't contort around well anymore but used to working in "tight confines". I just knelt outside the pass. door and got my arms and head inside the car to get at it.

Drop the glovebox door and it's below the "drawstring" assembly for the the glovebox door. The actuator for recirculation air is right the on the end of the HVAC box. Found that dropping down the interior fuse panel give more working room for the 2 screws.

Well it is DEFINITELY the recirculation door actuator. Got it out pretty easily, chipped gear teeth AND a broken post for one of the gears inside the actuator. Recirc DOOR movement is fine.so the new one will go in Wed. afternoon. EVERYTHING else about the new to us" '14 Journey is doing just FINE.

YES I DO! As with ANY function that is mounted to the rear hatch , OPEN the hatch and inspect for BROKEN WIRES inside the rubber boot between the hatch and the body. HIGHLY REPORTED spot for lights/wiper AND CAMERA WIRES.

This procedure I'm VERY familiar with and works well with other Dodge/Chrysler models(Sebring/200/Avenger and others). A bit different than the one you posted of that says for NISSAN in the link you posted.

Nice find, but it says for NISSAN. never heard of this for any of the Dodge/Chrysler products.and I've been around them and on forums for them for a long time. Would be nice to know if this is "legit" for our vehicles.

A '14 model year wit the 4 cyl. motor and at 100k miles? Have you ever had the spark plugs replaced or had the throttle body cleaned? With ETC light on, yes it will trigger traction control and other lights also as you try and drive with the ETC light on and in "limp mode".

LOL ! Hardly a "team up" as I started my "journey" with the Journey model in 2020. and still have that 2011 for my son's use. And just bought the 2014 for the wife. Member 2late4u started out in 2011 by membership join date. My big buying point for the model was their durability(when properly cared for) and the PRICE to aquire them, a total of around 10 grand for BOTH cars is not a bad investment!

My sense of adventure sailed LONG AGO without me after my 5th back surgery! Now I try and do things without stressing the back as much ! Still have the heater core to change on the '11 mainstreet yet.... and am DEFINITELY NOT doing that in blazing heat or freezing cold!

Agree'd, but it does not happen ALL the time, so with his scanner I can "cycle" each of the actuators till I find the culprit and replace it.....A lot easier than climbing under the dash and listening/feeling for the dying one.

Two "glitches" down with one to go. Took off the "privacy(deep tint) and back to OE glass. removed the cruise switch and disassembled it (not for the clumsy finger type folk) and "adjusted" the metal contact "button" for the ON/OFF portion and reassembled it....... Cruise control now working as supposed to! Next is to test with scanner of my friend and determine which HVAC actuator is clicking and repair that. ... Stay tuned!

ANY HAPPY JOURNEY OWNERS OUT THERE? Does having an "11 mainstreet AND a '14 SXT (both 3.6 AWD) at the same time qualify as a YES? IF SO, Then count me as EXTREMELY HAPPY!

Well.......A little over 1 week having the 14 on the road (with about 300 miles put on). All is doing great, the computers I/M monitors have all reset with no trouble and ready to pass NY State inspection. The cruise control worked twice on various runs, so I think it is the steeering wheel mounted control switch, and still have an intermittant HVAC click. Last night was the first night time drive with the car(my 1st time to drive it) and I have one more "glitch" to remedy. The previous owner had film tinted with 85% tint all around (except for the windshield). For NY the front doors can be no more than 30%, and I had effortlessly already removed those. BUT I found that while looking "cool" in the daytime, at night one can also NOT SEE OUT. The side and rear glass are already factory tinted anyway to a lesser amount, so today I'm going to remove the rest of the film on the car. It was an ultimatum by the wife that either taken off OR want a BACKUP CAMERA SYSTEM installed(and PRONTO)! Otherwise this '14 is going to be just as well liked as our '11 model, I was very happy with the ride/performance of this car when I finally got the chance to drive itlast night! Just still bemusing myself that for the first time in all my decades of car ownershio to have TWO of the same make/model at the same time!

And proper TORQUE value wswd was 118 ft/lbs that you used I hope. Glad it was just the wheel bearing.

Yes I should have mentioned I did that on our 2011 3.6AWD...Forgot that I now also have a '14 AWD this past Feb. I also had to replace the both front wheel bearings on my '10 Buick Lucerne. They were fairly new when I bought the car in August....BUT the "tech" WAY OVERTIGHTENED the axle nuts which spec'd for 108 ft/lbs. Had to use an 8'pipe over long handled 1/2" drive breaker bar, and thought the breaker bar would snap befoire the nut came loose of it's torque!

Just did the RF bearing last week and the spec was 118. I'd doubt that spec has changed but always best to ensure spec from a relible source (and be sure of make/model application). Some sites give a "range or general torque value that may not be accurate. I did not mean to imply you used a wrong value, but meant as a possibility.

Most likely that with just over 100k miles is that front wheel bearings are starting to gobad. you say you replaced axle/joint shaft(s), but did you use a torque wrench and tighten the axle nuts to 118 ft/lbs or just guesstimate? Over/under tightened axle nut will cause premature wear of the wheel bearings.

Things are "heating up" all over the USA and R-134a a/c refrigerant is NOT getting any cheaper. How long have you had this car to notice now about the :cooling effect" of a/c thru the vents? An overcharged system will not cool AND an undercharged system will do the same. WHAT a/c maint has been performed? Also if you are not "mechanicallly inclined, the best bet is to get into a reputable shop that has an A/C specialty to check the system over.

"UNPROVEN", but a possibility. Our '11 Journey does not "click" at all, and all doors for HVAC function properly. Next wek I'll get with my friend and use his "high end" scanner and test things out.

Went for an 80 mile round trip with the wife driving HER '14 Journey Sat. afternoon in the 91* heat yesterday. Got it's first "fill up" and shopping. Only other "glitch" found besides the clicking recirc. door is that the cruise control switch is not working. MINOR things to check out, and yes the A/C worked marvelously, now for some COLD night to check out HEAT from the trouble prone heater cores these Dodges are known for!