5rebel9

Welcome to the forum! HOW long ago was the water pump job done? Can't you go back to the "person" and have them re check the work done? Not sure just what ground would have needed "moving" to do that job. Is the Check Engine Light on when you are able to drive it? IF SO you need to have the computer system(OBDII) scanned for codes that will help determine just what needs to be checked out and repaired. YES the battery is in a heck of a spot, but CLEAN tight connections are a must. Either you or pay someone to "check it out". Also a battery more than 4 years old (and some younger) is coming to the END of reliable service life. Please keep us informed as to how all goes with your DJ's problem

@John/Horace , The 4 banger is a bit more involved due to location of alt on the motor. The 3.6 you are correct about.

All well and good if one buys it new from a dealer and buys that additional "insurance" coverage. BUT for the many of us who choose to buy used from private parties, we have to be prepared to fork out the $$ or DIY (of which I mostly do).

It sure will leak LOTS when engine is running and also at off time drain down . Did the proper tightening torque specs get used when this unit was replaced? Also since it was a plastic part (and even metal units) they should be tightened down in a pattern to EVENLY draw down the both parts involved. I've seen a couple of these motors "opened up" to see where / how the filter/cooler sits, and I don't look forward to wanting to do such replacement of this part on a regular basis!

Is this where it mounts to the engine OR where it mounts the oil cooler? I've not taken one down to know myself from your excellent PIC's (but sorry to see such a fault). IF the cooler side, I'd think seriously about getting a new oil cooler also!

IF you are sure of the production date you should be fine with filter and filter cap with the new part. IF you have the early style filter and cap, you will need to get the '14 and newer filter and cap. GOOD LUCK!

It's available, but takes special tools to R&R and alt has to be removed from the engine to do it. Also for the cost/labor. Would be better off getting a good reman alternator which will come with new pulley. We have similar personal backgrounds and I would suggest the whole unit if you have around 80k miles on it.

NOPE, they still have ECM regulator. IF yours is the 2.4 motor, they use a clutch drive alternator pulley(or decoupler pulley) and they are known to go bad before the actual alternator goes.

WELL .... Lets CLOSE THIS OUT! Just came in from popping out a tail light unit to find that it's not a back up light, but a 4 way flasher!. CLEAR lens but AMBER bulb and in direct alignment with the hatch mounted back up lights. Must have been the angle of view and sunlight(?) that made me think it was blown Back up bulbs. ALL is well and boy do I feel foolish!

Hey all, Just noticed the outer OE incandescent back up lights are out on the son's DJ with the LED tail/brake lights. Box stores want a fair penny(buck in todays economy) for the replacement 744 back up bulbs. , and was considering spending a bit more and getting LED replacements. I've not tried doing such to any cars in my past/current "fleet". So looking for some "feedback" from folks here. Inner hatch lights are working fine.

Was thinking of voltage drop from dirty connection(lack of better word) The Negative connection at the strut tower is a common clean connection issue with these. I'd take a good look at it for "tarnish" and clean shiny and dielectric lube on reconnection. Seems from your personal info statement, that we share a bit in common!

Please clarify something for me. The 10.58v reading is taken from where, at the jumper posts or where? Does your OBDII reader also show charge voltage with vehicle running? IF so what does that show?

When you drove it by your other thread, did the charging system warning light come on as you drove? Did you put an electrical load(lights, interior fan) on as you drove? IF light didn't come on, then you should be OK about alternator(even with relatively high miles on it). Also the clutch drive pulley being bad would turn on the charge system warning light(battery icon). Also to take note that signal to charge from alternator to system is controlled thru the PCM (ecm) computer.

OR he gave up on it and sold the DJ because of the vert problem you are experiencing. Could have an electrical drain when shut off weakening battery charge state. It is usually better to post of actual problem or symptoms than to look for direct answers for your suppositions of the situation. GOOD LUCK, and I also have a bad back after 5 back surgeries!

you're not looking very well at rockauto's listing. They are all 160 amp but from various suppliers and NOT that many as you posted. PITTSFIELD, NY? If so, I'm not that far away in Allegany County.

So you have entered that yours' is a '10 model, but WHICH MOTOR SIZE? The 4 cyl 3.4 does indeed use a clutch drive alternator pulley that NONE of the other motors avail. for the year use. Using readings from a charger is NOT what tests the cells of the battery for charge hold capacity. Don't know where you are looking up parts, but rockauto.com is very easy and straightforward as to replacement parts specifically for your vehicle when you enter the required vehicle specs for the site.

And HOW OLD is the battery? Has it been properly load tested to see just how many CA/CCA are left in it? Everything you post of doing points to the battery itself.

I would assume by your wording that you are working with the 2.4 4 cyl motor. LOTS of you tube videos for that "world motor" to give you some help.

I was able to get a good used unit and it is not hard at all to change. many you tubes about the center trim and infotainment screen removal. Yes NEW would be rather expensive ... but what isn't nowadays.

From the screen shot you posted the cheaper one is EXCLUDING power front windows and also drivers one touch. Seems to say pretty well to me as the more expensive one has those features. What year is your DJ?

From my personal experience with our '11 DJ. I found that a LOT of functions run thru the radio/CD player module. I wonder if yours may have been "zapped" from the previous happening. My problem of dash not shutting down happened ONCE and then not again for a couple months, and then it did it all the time. May not be your exact circumstance, but the siriusXM "updating" as problem happened made me want to offer this tidbit. Module should still be a plug and play change, but if you subscribe to XM(we don't) you may need to give them a call about the module being replaced to recognize the new(or used) module. I've got quite a posting somewhere on here about the saga of checks I went thru.

I thought the part descriptions for mirrors on rockauto.com were pretty straight forward, if you know what features your year Journey has for outside mirrors other than body color. The codes you post of are RPO codes and FCA does not readily post them in the vehicle like most all GM cars do.

Sorry to hear that. Is this the SAME possessed as original or just the radio function?

Your member info shows you in Africa. What specifications are your Journey besides being a 2014 model year? Is the fuel tank accepting a full fill up and then gage goes low yet refill does not take a lot? OR are you actually getting poor fuel economy? But YES the sender is part of the fuel pump and sold as an assembly.

Sorry to hear of the way this is ending. But looking back on all the reported troubles you've encountered while in your possession. I can't fault you. I wonder if this was a first build on a Monday morning or last build on a Friday vehicle? I hope you have better luck with your next vehicle!