5rebel9

WELL, I CHEATED! Didn't mention that when we did the snow tires that a quick look at the brakes showed the front pads getting rather thin. Yesterday in 34* and breezy conditions, I "slapped in" new pads. Yes, I opened the bleeder and used a screwdriver between the rotor and inner pad to retract the piston and then closed the bleeder. Everything went fine, pins got some more "grease" and trial fit of pads revealed no need to clean the slide actions. Pads literally fell into place and moved freely in their holders. This was all done one side at a time and only took a little more than an hour to do. I was "chilled to the bone" working in my driveway by the time I got done all the same! The pads taken out would not have lasted thru to the new year with the miles my son drives, so it was a "have to" job before they went metal to metal. On a sad note. The friend my son took on a drum set delivery trip to NYC area last year, suddenly passed away in his sleep on Monday. My son had just spent last Sunday evening doing drum stuff with him and was the last person to be with him besides his daughter on Monday morning. My son took the news very hard and we are now getting ready (as I type this) to go to his memorial service. I did not know that he was only 55 years old and a good bit younger than me. He will be greatly missed, as he was like a second dad to my son and a stalwart member of our towns concert band (percussion section of course).

Try looking your vehicle up on rockauto.com and going to the Exhaust/emissions page, they have pics of all the parts. But YES the converters are bolted to the exhaust manifolds of the engine.

@Tim47802 I don't know your repair skill level, but would suggest that you inspect the metal wire ends INSIDE the plastic OBD port for damaged pin connections. They are very small and easily "bunged up" to not make the contact for reader to interface with the cars computer. This is all dependent on when you plug into it that the reader DOES power up from the power supply wire in the OBDII port under the dash. Reason for high cost is the whole harness for the port is being replaced, and not the easiest of jobs to do (unless one slices the wires near the port plug unit).

Trans cooler is SEPERATE from radiator, it's mounted on the front of it. Hoses are known to leak under the air filter box. Also check where the inner front axle joints fit into the trans, there are seals there that can go bad. Also the chance that the torque converter seal is leaking. I'd suggest a more "in depth inspection than you posted if not you, then a competent shop. ALSO the car uses ATF+4 not Dexron III.

It may not be the cause, but light problems there are a known issue. It is NOT hard to move the boot and check it out anyway.

Also, although a pain to get to, Check and clean the battery terminals. A thin coat of dielectric grease to the posts will help keep a good connection. Diesel motors draw a lot of amps to start up (particularly when cold) and a good battery with good clean connections is crucial.

That would have the VW/Audi motor and not available in the NA market. BUT being an 08 model and14 yrs old now, I would start by having the starter motor and attached solenoid tested. ANY older starter can develop a "dead" segment on the starter armature or have the solenoid wear out. Also check the small gage wire connection on the starter solenoid, it can deteriorate and cause similar happenings.

I'm from USA, Does this have mandatory DLR for Canada? The tail lights that go out, are they the inner(mounted on hatch) or the outer(body mounted) ones? IF the inner ones, check the wires in the rubber boot between hatch and body. MANY posts of wires breaking in there and how to fix can be found here. A common problem with just about all years of older DJ's.

Thanks for sharing your experience and the video! Which was exactly how I was taught to do the job decades ago. One thing I additionally do is to crack open the bleeder screw before compressing the piston(s) back and then immediately closing the bleeder back up. This expels old fluid that stays in the caliper that gets the most heat soak "wear" of the brake fluid. Done right there is no need to "bleed" the brakes after, just be sure to "top up" the brake res. when all is back together. On dual piston calipers, I also use a shim to press both in at the same time. Our '11 Journey and all my other cars currently use single piston calipers,

11/26/21 UPDATE. Studded Snows are now mounted on the original rims, and son reports road noise is very livable on the bare pavement we've had(no real snow yet). We took it on the 60 mile drive to our daughter's home for Thanksgiving yesterday and I as passenger got to make some real good observations on just how the car is doing. First of all is the heater core does need replacement. BUT after 15 minutes into the drive my son cut the heat level back to just below the midpoint of the red/blue scale with all zones synched together for the duration of the trip (outside temp of 42*f) Trip home was colder and rainy and once again repeated temp settings but switched to foot/windshield. A cool but not unpleasant ride home for me. But son said that's how he likes it! Next thing noted was ride quality was for an almost 200k mile car ....VERY NICE and road noise of snows was barely heard. A pleasant feeling for my thoughts about a rather shorter WB, AWD, higher ground clearance vehicle than any other car I've had before! Last thing to update, son reports that since I unplugged the harness connector to the heat control module(behind the center "infotainment screen") and applied dielectric grease to it, that there has been NO FURTHER "UNSYCHING" instances. This little trick I did stems from a recall/ TSB I found about electrical issues for our PontiacG6. I guess it can "do the trick" for other cars as well! Son loves his ride and I'm happy with it and even though I don't look forward to the heater core job, it is a very good car for our uses! Hope all here had a safe and Happy Thanksgiving yesterday!

Greetings. I would assume that a it was fully inspected after 2 years storage for underneath components(motor mounts/exhaust/heat shields) to be put back on the road? There are MANY possibilities of the cause of noise that one could fill a book with the possible causes. I'd suggest finding another reputable shop for a good overall inspection to determine what is going on. Hard to give advice about the codes without their format numbers.

And it is not leaking/losing brake fluid thru all this time? Has a high level scanner that can engage the ABS pump for system bleed been used, as you posted before of ABS unit also being replaced?

I thought I had suggested this before.... A sinking brake pedal after replacing and bleeding of all these parts replaced would leave me to a faulty master cylinder(I know, already replaced) or a problem in the power assist system. Try unplugging the electrical power brake vacuum pump mounted on the engine and see if pedal stays hard and "high"(little pedal movement). And also check the hose(s) from the booster to the pump and engine, I believe there is a Y connector and hose too another area on the engine for vacuum. MY this is turning out to be quite a MYSTERIOUS problem to track down! Hang in there.

Even the latest "issue" posted is a common fault found here. It takes doing some investigating OF THE CAR as a starting point to find the problem to be able to fix it. IF there is a common "link" for all these "quirks", It would then come down to poor ground points of wiring harness to the body of the vehicle. BUT to my knowledge none of these issues are a common ground connection for components involved. Being a new member, I'd suggest reading thru the various section pages relating to your ride's troubles. Good Luck!

Welcome to the forum. As for the rear wiper not working, that sounds like the common problem of broken wire in the rubber "boot" between the rear hatch and body on the drivers side. Many threads about this and how to check/fix can be found on the pages here. For the door lock, could also be broken wires in the boot between the drivers door and the body. Again, many threads about that also. Another possibility is the master switch unit failing on the drivers door. Do you have messages of service key showing up on the info panel?

Welcome aboard the forum! Nice work with the "updates" you've done. But why would the wife not keep loving her DJ? The Durango has just as many (if not more) "quirks" to deal with as the Journey. Our '11 model "Mainstreet" is well loved by my son(his main ride) even without all the "bells and whistles". The wife and I also are pretty enamored with it also!

Yes , with the T-stat housing being made of plastic sometimes it may be best to replace the whole unit as posted by others. Either way, TWO new thermostats.

The 2.4 motor uses TWO thermostats. I'd start by replacing BOTH.

Good to hear that using suggestions from members here have helped track down the probable cause of your Journey's concern. PLEASE also drop the lower pan and replace the filter also.

That would be the DRIVERS side cover back at the rear hatch. I had that all out when checking/fixing for rear hatch lights not working on ours and had the whole hatch harness out for broken wires inside the main body area just about where the "rubber boot" attaches. YES , a bit of disassembly to do but not hard to do AND it saved greatly on labor costs to "farm the work out"!

As you probably know you must press the door lock button and then the remote start button. Are you sure that ALL doors are locking properly? without the fob near the car, you may want to check all the doors to confirm they are indeed locked. As already posted, there are a number of possible causes for your problem, you've answered to a couple of those. Time to do some further checking and report back, as this is not a common complaint to not work the first time but will work later after use.

That would surely cause your "glitch". A little different than the normal cause as I posted before, but in the same "ballpark". Glad you got it fixed!

Sorry to hear that. But you did about all that was possible without engine disassembly. Yup low compression will cause misfires, I hope it is just something in the cylinder head and not deeper. Good Luck and keep us posted!

Well, get the engine up near the 185* mark and the left side will ROAST you. The right center vent has noticeable improvement in heat, the far right vent lukewarm when driving (keep the rpm's up and is ok). IT IS A PLUGGED UP HEATER CORE. Weather conditions and schedules are going to make it difficult to even do a "cut the tubes" replacement. 99% of driving/passengers is just my son in the car, so hopefully we can get thru the winter "as is".

11/8/21: So after what seems an eternity, Finally had the car home on Sunday. After getting home from worship and hearing of my "BILLS" doing poorly against the "JAGS" I decided to try one last flush of the front heater core with CLR and let it work overnight. Getting the inlet and outlet hoses off was the most challenge to do. I used lengths of 5/8" ID clear hose to both tubes and did numerous water hose flushes back and forth and then used air to blow out what water I could. Next came using a 50/50 mix of CLR/water till a good foot of liquid showed in each clear hose. With light air pressure, I worked that back and forth for an hour before leaving it set overnight(had a 4pm dinner to attend). Was a bit cool this morning yet, but went out and "worked the cleaner fluid back and forth some more and was happy to see numerous chunks of "crud" floating in the hoses. Letting it work some more at this time and around noon (when it warms up more) will start doing more "working" and then flush out with water and refill and put things back together. Son is taking "mom's car" to work at noon(I have to "chauffer" the wife home from work at 5pm(hopefully with the Journey with HEAT working on both sides! STAY TUNED!