5rebel9

I like to start my replies to these type questions with the basics. HOW did they "diagnose" the car to reach their "opinions"? Were tires checked for a broken belt or bent rim? How about springs and rear suspension bushings? Did anyone even bother to drain some of the rear diff gear oil and check for metal contamination/ With that many miles diff(rear) and power take off (front) for rear driveshaft are due for drain and fresh lubes anyway.

How many miles on your 10 year old ride? CLEAN battery cable ends on the battery AND a good clean negative connection at the drivers strut tower stud are a must Re check them. The 2.4 alternator uses a decoupling pulley instead of a solid pulley found on most other vehicles. It is known to wear out with higher miles (about 80k -100k) and will cause lack of charge output. Sounds like it is time for a proper alternator test to be done and POSSIBLY time for a new alternator.

2011 AWD Mainstreet, now showing 203,450 on the clock. Only current glitch is that I need to replace the heater core( have the part, just too darned cold out to do in my driveway) LOVE this car.

YES, the temp selector (cold to hot) on the dash could be bad. It tells the actuator to move. There is also a HVAC control module mounted behinf the radio/infotainment screen inside the dash that could have a poor connection. IF you have a known good actuator, try plugging that on and try your controls. And as said before, our '11 model can also adjust heat level for left and right side on the radio screen(4.3" unit). Try that and see if actuator works. IF not you'll have to start checking the press heat control switch panel or deeper in the main HVAC control module.

As I was alluding to in my first response... If actuator "bench tested" good then the problem should lay in the connecion/wires or the control switch. Do all other HVAC controls work? and ONLY driver side temp not ?

Would I be correct that you mean blend door actuator and not the blend door itself? Our '11 model has 2 ways to adjust temp, manual push button for hot/cold and finger swipe for hot/cold on the infotainment screen (ours is 4.3" small screen).

OUCH !!!!!! Thanks for the update, sorry it's SO major a repair on your particular circumstance!

MANY threads to be read here of same problem and how to fix. Short answer is faulty control actuators for position ing of where airflow is directed, and same part # for blend of temp actuator. Along with possible stuck open thermostat in enginge if gage does not get to "normal" operating temp. Do some reading for your heating problem on the forum here, GOOD LUCK!

Are you sure it IS the clock spring? What is the BCM code that is turning on the light (to be sure of the needed repair). Check out rockauto.com. Have an acquaintance in Finland with a Dodge Charger, and had an Avenger and a Caliber. Got a lot of parts thru this parts company. Shipping and YOUR Nations "fee's" brings the price up notably, but delivery was always fairly quick.

YUP, and a RIP OFF from the TUCKER TORPEDO 48 that the "BIG 3" KILLED OFF with the help of our FEDERAL GOVERNMENT (USA). ') I still like the Amber FOG lights for most of my needs. With the demise of real bumpers and going "plastic", it gets harder and harder to make EASY mounting of any "auxiliary" lighting.

In my VW driving days, I would mount both driving and FOG lights. The sealed beams of the era were horrible and since most of my driving was late at night (finally done working all day and living close to work) that they both were needed for the seasons we have around me. Driving lights atop the bumper and FOGS below. Quite a look on the old Beetles and early rabbits!

1/13/22 UPDATE The Journey is doing VERY WELL, even with the 0* night temps of winter that we're finally getting. Pass side heat has been "so - so" since flushing the heater core. But this past Monday I swapped rides with my son for the day, it was 14* daytime temp and snowy! I found a "trick" to help boost the heat to pass vents by just half closing the drivers side outer and middle vents. Heat was still more than plenty for driver and the wife said she was more than comfortable with heat on the pass. side. The studded Altimax Arctic 12 grip is phenomenal for the conditions I encountered that day. One thing that this "old school" fellow would WANT to do with this NON DRIVING LIGHT model DJ is to install some good AMBER FOG LIGHTS. The headlights are fine high and low beam in clear conditions, but in snowfall overpowering to the eyesight beaming into the falling snow. The AMBER would be so much better in snow or fog, and a distinctive "look" as around me they are not often seen on cars anymore.

The members profile info shows as last seen on Dec. of 2016, I doubt any reply would be forthcoming.

Well good luck to you in getting that "squared away". if you wish to get more familiar with just how your Journey's systems work and what it takes to repair them, You Tube is a good source as it's a video format rather than just reading about it. Make sure you use 3.5 motor in your search(other car models use the same motor(Avenger/Charger/etc.) They can be very helpful also.

The timing belt has to come off to get to the water pump (should have posted that in previous post). WOW you've had a lot done, just how many miles on this Journey !

All Dodge product motors have a reputation for air entrapment when cooling system work is done. "Do it quick" work attitudes usually result in this happening without using the proper "bleed out of air". I doubt a water pump unless the car "boils over, but due to age and even you can do it is to buy a new radiator cap(a $10 part). A water pump is a BIG JOB on the 3.5 and should include a new TIMING BELT and Tensioner .... VERY expensive job, But TIMING BELT (not alternator belt) is recommended replacement of 7 years or 105k miles WHICHEVER comes first.

Is the coolant level full? If just happening from work very recently done, could be air entrapment in the cooling system. But there have been many reports on '10 models that actuator and linkage to the actual "flap door" inside the HVAC box not working. You say new actuator also, have them dig a bit deeper and CHECK OPERATION rather than throwing parts at it.

A V6 motor in a 2010 would be the 3.5 motor and totally different than the 3.6 of 2011. Have your shop check the blend door(mixes heated air with vent air for temp ) and it's actuator for proper operation. Also under what conditions are you getting "not much heat"? If it's really cold and you're only going a short distance, NO vehicle will give full heat with less than a good 10 minutes driving at speed. Urban "crawl or less than 10 miles will not get the system that warm to get "great heat".

You really should spend a FEEW bucks for a cheap OBDII scanner, they also at least have a "clear codes" function. You do realize that when any scanner is used that IM monitors also are cleared and have to go thru the self test/reset process. Disconnecting the power at the TIPM/Fuse panel/Jumper post for 5 minutes would do the same thing and radio presets and such would not be forgotten.. YUP, antifreeze is (and always has been) more expensive than most thermostats! Have a safe and enjoyable trip!

I have an '11 model year and same gen systems as yours, although AWD. When we first got it (used) I had the same codes for steering come up. Believe it or not clearing the code, has not come back in over a year. BUT for your situation, I doubt the clock spring as there is a separate steering sensor that the code you have is showing. There is an active notice for the headrests on these cars. but I would start by checking for yellow SRS connectors under the passengers seat. As for C0037, check the plug connector and wiring at the wheel, since you say it does not return with a continuous code after driving it. Kind of tricky to really diagnose down to specifics as the ABS/Trac. control and Steering angle sensor all work together. But start by checking out that LR wheel speed sensor / wiring to it first. Good luck and keep us updated.

This problem has been discussed many times here. YES anything on that fuse circuit needs to be checked/ tested until the electrical draw point is found. BUT many have reported that the glove box light is found to be staying on, caused by a GB door to switch problem that does not allow the switch to turn off the GB light bulb. Try removing the bulb and see if that stops the draw, OR repair the GB door latch/switch contact. Some here have posted of gluing a coin to the GB door where the switch contacts.

Well at least the problem is resolved.

Not that familiar with the newer(2016+) models. BUT if yours is a split driver/pass system then most likely a stuck/failed actuator for the pass side. Located down on the HVAC box under the dash. Many you tube videos can be found about the common actuator problems. Some are titled as for Freemont, that's the same vehicle just for a different market area.

Sadly it does sound like a cylinder head/ gasket problem. Your description is pointing that way. Good luck and let us know how you get this resolved.

Rad fan should come on by itself at about 216* by digital temp gage in the info pod. Try turning on the A/C on mid range cabin temp setting and see if radiator fan come on. THAT IS IF YOU KNOW the A/C functioned before this all happened. This will tell if the rad fan itself is working. Cabin heat blowing cold indicates air entrapment in the heater core and that will "shift thru" the system(engine) and cause problems also. Try taking the cap off overnight and check and top up coolant in the morning. You could also take the cap off and open the bleeder port on the thermostat housing to help bleed out air, When no air bubbles out, close and top up the res tank and put cap back on.