5rebel9

Is the coolant level full? If just happening from work very recently done, could be air entrapment in the cooling system. But there have been many reports on '10 models that actuator and linkage to the actual "flap door" inside the HVAC box not working. You say new actuator also, have them dig a bit deeper and CHECK OPERATION rather than throwing parts at it.

A V6 motor in a 2010 would be the 3.5 motor and totally different than the 3.6 of 2011. Have your shop check the blend door(mixes heated air with vent air for temp ) and it's actuator for proper operation. Also under what conditions are you getting "not much heat"? If it's really cold and you're only going a short distance, NO vehicle will give full heat with less than a good 10 minutes driving at speed. Urban "crawl or less than 10 miles will not get the system that warm to get "great heat".

You really should spend a FEEW bucks for a cheap OBDII scanner, they also at least have a "clear codes" function. You do realize that when any scanner is used that IM monitors also are cleared and have to go thru the self test/reset process. Disconnecting the power at the TIPM/Fuse panel/Jumper post for 5 minutes would do the same thing and radio presets and such would not be forgotten.. YUP, antifreeze is (and always has been) more expensive than most thermostats! Have a safe and enjoyable trip!

I have an '11 model year and same gen systems as yours, although AWD. When we first got it (used) I had the same codes for steering come up. Believe it or not clearing the code, has not come back in over a year. BUT for your situation, I doubt the clock spring as there is a separate steering sensor that the code you have is showing. There is an active notice for the headrests on these cars. but I would start by checking for yellow SRS connectors under the passengers seat. As for C0037, check the plug connector and wiring at the wheel, since you say it does not return with a continuous code after driving it. Kind of tricky to really diagnose down to specifics as the ABS/Trac. control and Steering angle sensor all work together. But start by checking out that LR wheel speed sensor / wiring to it first. Good luck and keep us updated.

This problem has been discussed many times here. YES anything on that fuse circuit needs to be checked/ tested until the electrical draw point is found. BUT many have reported that the glove box light is found to be staying on, caused by a GB door to switch problem that does not allow the switch to turn off the GB light bulb. Try removing the bulb and see if that stops the draw, OR repair the GB door latch/switch contact. Some here have posted of gluing a coin to the GB door where the switch contacts.

Well at least the problem is resolved.

Not that familiar with the newer(2016+) models. BUT if yours is a split driver/pass system then most likely a stuck/failed actuator for the pass side. Located down on the HVAC box under the dash. Many you tube videos can be found about the common actuator problems. Some are titled as for Freemont, that's the same vehicle just for a different market area.

Sadly it does sound like a cylinder head/ gasket problem. Your description is pointing that way. Good luck and let us know how you get this resolved.

Rad fan should come on by itself at about 216* by digital temp gage in the info pod. Try turning on the A/C on mid range cabin temp setting and see if radiator fan come on. THAT IS IF YOU KNOW the A/C functioned before this all happened. This will tell if the rad fan itself is working. Cabin heat blowing cold indicates air entrapment in the heater core and that will "shift thru" the system(engine) and cause problems also. Try taking the cap off overnight and check and top up coolant in the morning. You could also take the cap off and open the bleeder port on the thermostat housing to help bleed out air, When no air bubbles out, close and top up the res tank and put cap back on.

ROFL ! NOPE, Not even a flip phone!

At the age of your '12 model, if it is the original, then YES give replacing the thermostat a try. It takes more effort to drain and refill/bleed air, than changing the stat / neck assembly. Not a hard job at all.

Sounds like a workable deal, BUT I have NO electronic devices to use with either the aux jack or to convert for blue tooth! LOL

To my knowledge there were NO RWD Journeys. And the AWD rear differential is not strong enough for adapting the V8 to it. The AWD DJ in any motor combination is a transverse(sideways) mount along with the trans. with a relatively weak power take off mounted to the 62te trans for the AWD. IF you want more power than the 4 banger supplies, sell/trade off for a 3.6 motor model.

A number of threads about this subject have been posted. NOBODY here has been able to do such a swap as well as on other similar platform (Avenger/200/Sebring 08-14) models. Hemi won't fit transverse, and the steering mods needed for "in line" setup are a bit difficult.

LOL ! That stuff is all "Greek" to me to know what they are and how to employ them! My last few vehicles have had the 3.5 mm jacks and I never use them. My son does use that with his "11 DJ and phone, as it does not have the blue tooth or other "stuff" being a Main Street trim model.

Looking good on the progress as pictured! Yes, it's a pretty involving job to do along with cleaning out all that leaked oil. IF still not fully assembled, I'd try some spray electrical cleaner for the wiring and sockets to clear out oil. Have heard of oil in them causing problems. NICE WORK!

Welcome to the forum! HOW long ago was the water pump job done? Can't you go back to the "person" and have them re check the work done? Not sure just what ground would have needed "moving" to do that job. Is the Check Engine Light on when you are able to drive it? IF SO you need to have the computer system(OBDII) scanned for codes that will help determine just what needs to be checked out and repaired. YES the battery is in a heck of a spot, but CLEAN tight connections are a must. Either you or pay someone to "check it out". Also a battery more than 4 years old (and some younger) is coming to the END of reliable service life. Please keep us informed as to how all goes with your DJ's problem

@John/Horace , The 4 banger is a bit more involved due to location of alt on the motor. The 3.6 you are correct about.

All well and good if one buys it new from a dealer and buys that additional "insurance" coverage. BUT for the many of us who choose to buy used from private parties, we have to be prepared to fork out the $$ or DIY (of which I mostly do).

It sure will leak LOTS when engine is running and also at off time drain down . Did the proper tightening torque specs get used when this unit was replaced? Also since it was a plastic part (and even metal units) they should be tightened down in a pattern to EVENLY draw down the both parts involved. I've seen a couple of these motors "opened up" to see where / how the filter/cooler sits, and I don't look forward to wanting to do such replacement of this part on a regular basis!

Is this where it mounts to the engine OR where it mounts the oil cooler? I've not taken one down to know myself from your excellent PIC's (but sorry to see such a fault). IF the cooler side, I'd think seriously about getting a new oil cooler also!

IF you are sure of the production date you should be fine with filter and filter cap with the new part. IF you have the early style filter and cap, you will need to get the '14 and newer filter and cap. GOOD LUCK!

It's available, but takes special tools to R&R and alt has to be removed from the engine to do it. Also for the cost/labor. Would be better off getting a good reman alternator which will come with new pulley. We have similar personal backgrounds and I would suggest the whole unit if you have around 80k miles on it.

NOPE, they still have ECM regulator. IF yours is the 2.4 motor, they use a clutch drive alternator pulley(or decoupler pulley) and they are known to go bad before the actual alternator goes.

WELL .... Lets CLOSE THIS OUT! Just came in from popping out a tail light unit to find that it's not a back up light, but a 4 way flasher!. CLEAR lens but AMBER bulb and in direct alignment with the hatch mounted back up lights. Must have been the angle of view and sunlight(?) that made me think it was blown Back up bulbs. ALL is well and boy do I feel foolish!