5rebel9

Welcome to the forum! Best to start by inspecting the wires inside the rubber sleeve between the rear hatch and body of the car. Known weak spot for wires to break inside due to flexing from years of use. There are you tube videos and even posted here on the forum of such problems and hoe to fix them.

Yes, a real PAIN. A job I had to have dome last summer on the wifes '13 AWD. I got away for slightly less money than the original poster of this thread. IF it were a FWD, it would have been a "piece of cake" job to do as it is "out in the clear".

Please answer my questions posted, it will help us get a better "feel" as to what is going on. CITY driving with A/c on will kill MPG High mileage would denote need for trans service and spark plugs, BOTH essential for decent mpg and performance. Keep an "eye" on oil level, these 2.4's do use some oil and with the short ram with breather line hooked up into the main intake air will suck more oil from the mist in the Valve Cover.

Just did a quick search on rockauto.com. The rear struts are the same between the 2.4 and 3.6 the FRONT struts are different and probably for the spring ratings used for different weight between the 2.4 and 3.6. stay with your engine size application. I assume you are wanting complete strut units.

How many miles on the car? What driving conditions, city or open road? Poor fuel mileage trans fluid/filer changed? Could also be suspect of plugging up cat converter. As I originally said...it sounds like you have other problems, not IMRC Edit : for us with older DJ's.... which trans is in your '19 the 4 or 6 sp?

I don't go for changing control modules for engine performance, so I can't offer you any advice to you on that. BUT I do know {as was previously posted} that those equipped with manifold vanes{IMRC} were VERY TROUBLESOME. Is your DJ "up and running" or are you actually having a drivability issue? I think it is time to "climb out of the rabbit hole" of the IMRC system yours does not have.

WELLLLL, The OP's main concern was that there is not an IMRC actuator or wiring plug for it on his ride, and he thinks there should be. All found info sources say NO on a 2019 model DJ. Well documented that the 4 cyl DJ's are no speed demons even when running correctly! I do question the validity of no codes claim as this year DJ has a security gateway module that blocks a lot of code retrieval scanners from getting higher level codes {just basic ones}, my shop owner friend is on hold to getting costly software updates for his scanners to deal with these 2017 and newer v Stellantis company "Dodge" products and having to pay Dodge dealer to run scans for him...at a reduced cost for him. As all have heard about the possible demise of the true Dodge brand.

Ya know, maybe why I can't find anything is because I'm looking at USA sites.... You Canadians always seem to get things "tacked onto" your cars that we don't get! I agree that possible over oiling the air filter could be a problem area, but I also stand on my post. My son had an 04 Neon with short ram air intake mod, I put a small breather filter to the port on the Valve cover...It did not suck oil and sludge up the intake after that. Just think of the location of the throttle body in comparison to that hose for sucking in additional oil into the intake. That breather hose is to equalize air in the engine for the PCV to function. In effect you have 2 PCV suction lines the way these kits are "set up".

YES the good old 2.4, I've been looking for ANY info that states an IMRC for your year and find NONE. By your pic, I cringe when I see these supposed "cold air intake systems. They all are WRONG for hook up of the PCV BREATHER HOSE. They have you mount the hose in the high velocity intake air{which is suction flow INTO the engine} and not as OE air cleaner assy. which is a seperate LOW velocity section of the OE air filter box. Thanks for posting the pic's and keep us informed IF you find more info of your concern.

FUNNY your rockauto link shows Dodge products only using that part from 2007-2013. AND SPECIFICALLY JOURNEY 2009-20010. I had looked up part for his 2019 Journey on rockauto and they had NO LISTING for the part.

Parking brake is a MECHANICAL ACTION to move the caliper pistons against the rotor. This does NOT mean that HYDRAULICALLY the calipers and slide actions are in good order, Do as I posted earlier.

YES, if rears are stuck the fronts have to do all the work and will overheat. Also check for excessive heat at wheels after a drive, you MAY also have brake hose on front end collapsing and not allowing fluid back out of the calipers after braking. A fairly common issue with the DJ's

I would suggest posting a picture of your engine showing your intake manifold without the pop on engine cover. A 2019 is pretty new to most of us here, and I have a feeling you MAY have the "newest version" with so called dual air injection. 2.4 IMRC was only used for first gen 08-10 dodge products,

YES you will need new rotors again AND do the following. The pads do fit snug BUT they need to be able to move on the shims File clean the pad slide areas of the caliper mounting brackets. THEN check and clean the same for the REAR calipers for pins and pad slide areas just as the fronts. Rear brakes are just as involved for proper braking forces as the fronts, "stuck up" rears put ALL braking force on the fronts to do the work . With 2 "big brake" and a small brake DJ's to care for....been there done that!

@2late4u....Hang in there and get better SOON! My 5 times surgery back is SCREAMING from my car maint./repairs AND "honey do" list of summer house projects the wife wants done. And I still have 16 face cord of firewood to get done and stacked in our basement for winter!

I have 3 AWD models and have not seen a situation like that. Unless someone has had the shaft out before for other work and not properly tightened those bolts. I suggest taking a close look at the middle carrier bearing and the flex coupler to the rear differential for possible causes. Only concern would be damaged threads of the PTO flange due to the originals loosening up and backing out.

As Steve Irwin would say CRICKEY! From the look of your posted picture, it looks like you need a complete rack and pinion assembly, as it looks like the bushing for the rack rod is also completely worn out also. BUT yes an inner tie rod can be changed with vehicle on jackstands, although not fun laying on your back or squatting down WITHY special inner tie rod tool. Many you tube videos for changing them can be found with a google search. And member 2late4u just "beat me to the punch"!

I believe you as saying you dove down the rabbit hole! The 2.4 motor for 2019 does NOT use the IMRC system, the 2009 does use this system! You have other problems causing your concern. How many miles on the car and other than what you posted of parts "shotgunned" to it has been done? FWIW, mant aftermarket sensors do NOT play nice with these motors , stay with O.E.

Sorry to hear of a siexed motor. Although it may seem like more steeps to do, it's far easier and less nerve wracking to drop it out the bottom. Either way, not a fun job.Good Luck and keep us posted as to how things go.

The rear hatch handle is a known problem area of the handle getting sticky and staying in the open position. Try pushing the handle back to the closed position and then try opening the hatch. The item you have described only releases the LOCK on the hatch and not the latch. With 3 DJ's of mine, I periodically spray lube up into the pivots of the hatch handle to keep things smoothly working, yes a bit messy needing to wipe off dripping of excess spray lube from the hatch.

Just a guess as there are a number of heat shields under our rides. But possibly a cat converter heat shied coming apart?

A bit of work to do, but if you did change those 2 sensors with used ones. Try swapping location and see if code changes{ for bank position}, then you will know if indeed it is the sensor and not further involved.

Why not try giving full info as to what has been done to prevent already done that responses. I had intermittent engine shut downs and jerking and FINALLY threw code P0339 for crank sensor. On inspection of removed sensor, the electrical plug end was full of oil. I posted of this SOMEWHERE on the forum some time ago. If you say so much plug and play has been done, then it comes down to "shooting" wire readings between sensor and ECM. Service manual/wire schematics for your year are posted here on the forum for folks to look up to help diagnose your problem. EDIT : I think you are mistaking the ones on the passenger side for the 2{1 on each Valve cover} on the drivers side{trannie side}

Sensor for bank 1 and 2 are the same. YES have to pull the upper intake off to R&R them. rockauto price is relatively inexpensive, and at that mileage would not be a bad idea to replace both. Like any high mileage sensor that gets hit with oil all the time, a small crack can happen that lets oil get inside and "knock out" sensor reading. I had this happen with the crank sensor on my '13 3.6 AWD.....not so easy to replace as the CMP sensors.

Many "regulars" on the forum here know of my connection with an independant shop owner friend. He maintains a taxi service fleet of 10 various year T&C/ grand Caravans. We've had quite a hot summer here south of Buffalo,NY and therefore ended up replacing the radiators on 4 of those 10 this summer to take care of much the same situation you and a few others have posted of. Van radiator is not cheap, you may want to invest in a laser pointer heat gun to "shoot" temp readings up and down the radiator.. Markedly lower temps down low would indicate poor flow from sediments trapped in the core tubes of the radiator, which means less heat transfer overall and higher temps especially slow speeds or idling. On all 10 he has gone to aluminum "Y" pipes and T-stat housings along with making sure of proper fan operation. Many times "backflushing" these radiators is not enough to remedy the problem.