5rebel9

ROFL ! NOPE, Not even a flip phone!

At the age of your '12 model, if it is the original, then YES give replacing the thermostat a try. It takes more effort to drain and refill/bleed air, than changing the stat / neck assembly. Not a hard job at all.

Sounds like a workable deal, BUT I have NO electronic devices to use with either the aux jack or to convert for blue tooth! LOL

To my knowledge there were NO RWD Journeys. And the AWD rear differential is not strong enough for adapting the V8 to it. The AWD DJ in any motor combination is a transverse(sideways) mount along with the trans. with a relatively weak power take off mounted to the 62te trans for the AWD. IF you want more power than the 4 banger supplies, sell/trade off for a 3.6 motor model.

A number of threads about this subject have been posted. NOBODY here has been able to do such a swap as well as on other similar platform (Avenger/200/Sebring 08-14) models. Hemi won't fit transverse, and the steering mods needed for "in line" setup are a bit difficult.

LOL ! That stuff is all "Greek" to me to know what they are and how to employ them! My last few vehicles have had the 3.5 mm jacks and I never use them. My son does use that with his "11 DJ and phone, as it does not have the blue tooth or other "stuff" being a Main Street trim model.

Looking good on the progress as pictured! Yes, it's a pretty involving job to do along with cleaning out all that leaked oil. IF still not fully assembled, I'd try some spray electrical cleaner for the wiring and sockets to clear out oil. Have heard of oil in them causing problems. NICE WORK!

Welcome to the forum! HOW long ago was the water pump job done? Can't you go back to the "person" and have them re check the work done? Not sure just what ground would have needed "moving" to do that job. Is the Check Engine Light on when you are able to drive it? IF SO you need to have the computer system(OBDII) scanned for codes that will help determine just what needs to be checked out and repaired. YES the battery is in a heck of a spot, but CLEAN tight connections are a must. Either you or pay someone to "check it out". Also a battery more than 4 years old (and some younger) is coming to the END of reliable service life. Please keep us informed as to how all goes with your DJ's problem

@John/Horace , The 4 banger is a bit more involved due to location of alt on the motor. The 3.6 you are correct about.

All well and good if one buys it new from a dealer and buys that additional "insurance" coverage. BUT for the many of us who choose to buy used from private parties, we have to be prepared to fork out the $$ or DIY (of which I mostly do).

It sure will leak LOTS when engine is running and also at off time drain down . Did the proper tightening torque specs get used when this unit was replaced? Also since it was a plastic part (and even metal units) they should be tightened down in a pattern to EVENLY draw down the both parts involved. I've seen a couple of these motors "opened up" to see where / how the filter/cooler sits, and I don't look forward to wanting to do such replacement of this part on a regular basis!

Is this where it mounts to the engine OR where it mounts the oil cooler? I've not taken one down to know myself from your excellent PIC's (but sorry to see such a fault). IF the cooler side, I'd think seriously about getting a new oil cooler also!

IF you are sure of the production date you should be fine with filter and filter cap with the new part. IF you have the early style filter and cap, you will need to get the '14 and newer filter and cap. GOOD LUCK!

It's available, but takes special tools to R&R and alt has to be removed from the engine to do it. Also for the cost/labor. Would be better off getting a good reman alternator which will come with new pulley. We have similar personal backgrounds and I would suggest the whole unit if you have around 80k miles on it.

NOPE, they still have ECM regulator. IF yours is the 2.4 motor, they use a clutch drive alternator pulley(or decoupler pulley) and they are known to go bad before the actual alternator goes.

WELL .... Lets CLOSE THIS OUT! Just came in from popping out a tail light unit to find that it's not a back up light, but a 4 way flasher!. CLEAR lens but AMBER bulb and in direct alignment with the hatch mounted back up lights. Must have been the angle of view and sunlight(?) that made me think it was blown Back up bulbs. ALL is well and boy do I feel foolish!

Hey all, Just noticed the outer OE incandescent back up lights are out on the son's DJ with the LED tail/brake lights. Box stores want a fair penny(buck in todays economy) for the replacement 744 back up bulbs. , and was considering spending a bit more and getting LED replacements. I've not tried doing such to any cars in my past/current "fleet". So looking for some "feedback" from folks here. Inner hatch lights are working fine.

Was thinking of voltage drop from dirty connection(lack of better word) The Negative connection at the strut tower is a common clean connection issue with these. I'd take a good look at it for "tarnish" and clean shiny and dielectric lube on reconnection. Seems from your personal info statement, that we share a bit in common!

Please clarify something for me. The 10.58v reading is taken from where, at the jumper posts or where? Does your OBDII reader also show charge voltage with vehicle running? IF so what does that show?

When you drove it by your other thread, did the charging system warning light come on as you drove? Did you put an electrical load(lights, interior fan) on as you drove? IF light didn't come on, then you should be OK about alternator(even with relatively high miles on it). Also the clutch drive pulley being bad would turn on the charge system warning light(battery icon). Also to take note that signal to charge from alternator to system is controlled thru the PCM (ecm) computer.

OR he gave up on it and sold the DJ because of the vert problem you are experiencing. Could have an electrical drain when shut off weakening battery charge state. It is usually better to post of actual problem or symptoms than to look for direct answers for your suppositions of the situation. GOOD LUCK, and I also have a bad back after 5 back surgeries!

you're not looking very well at rockauto's listing. They are all 160 amp but from various suppliers and NOT that many as you posted. PITTSFIELD, NY? If so, I'm not that far away in Allegany County.

So you have entered that yours' is a '10 model, but WHICH MOTOR SIZE? The 4 cyl 3.4 does indeed use a clutch drive alternator pulley that NONE of the other motors avail. for the year use. Using readings from a charger is NOT what tests the cells of the battery for charge hold capacity. Don't know where you are looking up parts, but rockauto.com is very easy and straightforward as to replacement parts specifically for your vehicle when you enter the required vehicle specs for the site.

And HOW OLD is the battery? Has it been properly load tested to see just how many CA/CCA are left in it? Everything you post of doing points to the battery itself.

I would assume by your wording that you are working with the 2.4 4 cyl motor. LOTS of you tube videos for that "world motor" to give you some help.