5rebel9

Please clarify something for me. The 10.58v reading is taken from where, at the jumper posts or where? Does your OBDII reader also show charge voltage with vehicle running? IF so what does that show?

When you drove it by your other thread, did the charging system warning light come on as you drove? Did you put an electrical load(lights, interior fan) on as you drove? IF light didn't come on, then you should be OK about alternator(even with relatively high miles on it). Also the clutch drive pulley being bad would turn on the charge system warning light(battery icon). Also to take note that signal to charge from alternator to system is controlled thru the PCM (ecm) computer.

OR he gave up on it and sold the DJ because of the vert problem you are experiencing. Could have an electrical drain when shut off weakening battery charge state. It is usually better to post of actual problem or symptoms than to look for direct answers for your suppositions of the situation. GOOD LUCK, and I also have a bad back after 5 back surgeries!

you're not looking very well at rockauto's listing. They are all 160 amp but from various suppliers and NOT that many as you posted. PITTSFIELD, NY? If so, I'm not that far away in Allegany County.

So you have entered that yours' is a '10 model, but WHICH MOTOR SIZE? The 4 cyl 3.4 does indeed use a clutch drive alternator pulley that NONE of the other motors avail. for the year use. Using readings from a charger is NOT what tests the cells of the battery for charge hold capacity. Don't know where you are looking up parts, but rockauto.com is very easy and straightforward as to replacement parts specifically for your vehicle when you enter the required vehicle specs for the site.

And HOW OLD is the battery? Has it been properly load tested to see just how many CA/CCA are left in it? Everything you post of doing points to the battery itself.

I would assume by your wording that you are working with the 2.4 4 cyl motor. LOTS of you tube videos for that "world motor" to give you some help.

I was able to get a good used unit and it is not hard at all to change. many you tubes about the center trim and infotainment screen removal. Yes NEW would be rather expensive ... but what isn't nowadays.

From the screen shot you posted the cheaper one is EXCLUDING power front windows and also drivers one touch. Seems to say pretty well to me as the more expensive one has those features. What year is your DJ?

From my personal experience with our '11 DJ. I found that a LOT of functions run thru the radio/CD player module. I wonder if yours may have been "zapped" from the previous happening. My problem of dash not shutting down happened ONCE and then not again for a couple months, and then it did it all the time. May not be your exact circumstance, but the siriusXM "updating" as problem happened made me want to offer this tidbit. Module should still be a plug and play change, but if you subscribe to XM(we don't) you may need to give them a call about the module being replaced to recognize the new(or used) module. I've got quite a posting somewhere on here about the saga of checks I went thru.

I thought the part descriptions for mirrors on rockauto.com were pretty straight forward, if you know what features your year Journey has for outside mirrors other than body color. The codes you post of are RPO codes and FCA does not readily post them in the vehicle like most all GM cars do.

Sorry to hear that. Is this the SAME possessed as original or just the radio function?

Your member info shows you in Africa. What specifications are your Journey besides being a 2014 model year? Is the fuel tank accepting a full fill up and then gage goes low yet refill does not take a lot? OR are you actually getting poor fuel economy? But YES the sender is part of the fuel pump and sold as an assembly.

Sorry to hear of the way this is ending. But looking back on all the reported troubles you've encountered while in your possession. I can't fault you. I wonder if this was a first build on a Monday morning or last build on a Friday vehicle? I hope you have better luck with your next vehicle!

WELL, I CHEATED! Didn't mention that when we did the snow tires that a quick look at the brakes showed the front pads getting rather thin. Yesterday in 34* and breezy conditions, I "slapped in" new pads. Yes, I opened the bleeder and used a screwdriver between the rotor and inner pad to retract the piston and then closed the bleeder. Everything went fine, pins got some more "grease" and trial fit of pads revealed no need to clean the slide actions. Pads literally fell into place and moved freely in their holders. This was all done one side at a time and only took a little more than an hour to do. I was "chilled to the bone" working in my driveway by the time I got done all the same! The pads taken out would not have lasted thru to the new year with the miles my son drives, so it was a "have to" job before they went metal to metal. On a sad note. The friend my son took on a drum set delivery trip to NYC area last year, suddenly passed away in his sleep on Monday. My son had just spent last Sunday evening doing drum stuff with him and was the last person to be with him besides his daughter on Monday morning. My son took the news very hard and we are now getting ready (as I type this) to go to his memorial service. I did not know that he was only 55 years old and a good bit younger than me. He will be greatly missed, as he was like a second dad to my son and a stalwart member of our towns concert band (percussion section of course).

Try looking your vehicle up on rockauto.com and going to the Exhaust/emissions page, they have pics of all the parts. But YES the converters are bolted to the exhaust manifolds of the engine.

@Tim47802 I don't know your repair skill level, but would suggest that you inspect the metal wire ends INSIDE the plastic OBD port for damaged pin connections. They are very small and easily "bunged up" to not make the contact for reader to interface with the cars computer. This is all dependent on when you plug into it that the reader DOES power up from the power supply wire in the OBDII port under the dash. Reason for high cost is the whole harness for the port is being replaced, and not the easiest of jobs to do (unless one slices the wires near the port plug unit).

Trans cooler is SEPERATE from radiator, it's mounted on the front of it. Hoses are known to leak under the air filter box. Also check where the inner front axle joints fit into the trans, there are seals there that can go bad. Also the chance that the torque converter seal is leaking. I'd suggest a more "in depth inspection than you posted if not you, then a competent shop. ALSO the car uses ATF+4 not Dexron III.

It may not be the cause, but light problems there are a known issue. It is NOT hard to move the boot and check it out anyway.

Also, although a pain to get to, Check and clean the battery terminals. A thin coat of dielectric grease to the posts will help keep a good connection. Diesel motors draw a lot of amps to start up (particularly when cold) and a good battery with good clean connections is crucial.

That would have the VW/Audi motor and not available in the NA market. BUT being an 08 model and14 yrs old now, I would start by having the starter motor and attached solenoid tested. ANY older starter can develop a "dead" segment on the starter armature or have the solenoid wear out. Also check the small gage wire connection on the starter solenoid, it can deteriorate and cause similar happenings.

I'm from USA, Does this have mandatory DLR for Canada? The tail lights that go out, are they the inner(mounted on hatch) or the outer(body mounted) ones? IF the inner ones, check the wires in the rubber boot between hatch and body. MANY posts of wires breaking in there and how to fix can be found here. A common problem with just about all years of older DJ's.

Thanks for sharing your experience and the video! Which was exactly how I was taught to do the job decades ago. One thing I additionally do is to crack open the bleeder screw before compressing the piston(s) back and then immediately closing the bleeder back up. This expels old fluid that stays in the caliper that gets the most heat soak "wear" of the brake fluid. Done right there is no need to "bleed" the brakes after, just be sure to "top up" the brake res. when all is back together. On dual piston calipers, I also use a shim to press both in at the same time. Our '11 Journey and all my other cars currently use single piston calipers,

11/26/21 UPDATE. Studded Snows are now mounted on the original rims, and son reports road noise is very livable on the bare pavement we've had(no real snow yet). We took it on the 60 mile drive to our daughter's home for Thanksgiving yesterday and I as passenger got to make some real good observations on just how the car is doing. First of all is the heater core does need replacement. BUT after 15 minutes into the drive my son cut the heat level back to just below the midpoint of the red/blue scale with all zones synched together for the duration of the trip (outside temp of 42*f) Trip home was colder and rainy and once again repeated temp settings but switched to foot/windshield. A cool but not unpleasant ride home for me. But son said that's how he likes it! Next thing noted was ride quality was for an almost 200k mile car ....VERY NICE and road noise of snows was barely heard. A pleasant feeling for my thoughts about a rather shorter WB, AWD, higher ground clearance vehicle than any other car I've had before! Last thing to update, son reports that since I unplugged the harness connector to the heat control module(behind the center "infotainment screen") and applied dielectric grease to it, that there has been NO FURTHER "UNSYCHING" instances. This little trick I did stems from a recall/ TSB I found about electrical issues for our PontiacG6. I guess it can "do the trick" for other cars as well! Son loves his ride and I'm happy with it and even though I don't look forward to the heater core job, it is a very good car for our uses! Hope all here had a safe and Happy Thanksgiving yesterday!

Greetings. I would assume that a it was fully inspected after 2 years storage for underneath components(motor mounts/exhaust/heat shields) to be put back on the road? There are MANY possibilities of the cause of noise that one could fill a book with the possible causes. I'd suggest finding another reputable shop for a good overall inspection to determine what is going on. Hard to give advice about the codes without their format numbers.