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5rebel9

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Everything posted by 5rebel9

  1. 5rebel9
    Well it is then NOT a starter motor problem if therngine is spinning(but won't start) Rather than try and explain it, I suggest you check out YOUTUBE for a video of Dodge 3.5 engine TIMING BELT. You may come across ones for the Dodge Charger, and that's a good one. SAME motor, just mounted in the car differently. IF you are leaving the car for prolonged times between working on it and posting here, disconnect the neg wire on the strut tower to keep battery from draining if you have draws from the before noted glove box light and door situation.
  2. 5rebel9
    Agreed! and if read by RayRay it needs to be a flatbed and not traditional tow truck being the car is an AWD model.
  3. 5rebel9
    When a cars electrical system is totally drained as you posted of yours doing then normal level scanners will not read any codes as the computer erases(from power disconnected). Only a high level scanner that can read history codes (more than pending/current/permanent codes) can bring codes up that would help figure things out. Other than crank or cam sensor related codes would "clue you into a Timing Belt problem Just what lights came on when the car started to die (but was still running) during your trip? There is the oil pressure (red oil can), Battery light and the Check Engine Light(yellow). AND you did NOT answer ANY of the suggestions posted to be able to help you any further.
  4. 5rebel9
    There is also the possibility that the clutched drive Alternator PULLEY is going bad. With the added resistance of the a/c being turned on can be overpowering the alternator pulley. A '14 model so alternator is probably the original one and about the age of many 2.4 alternator failures. Even my 04 minivan had this type alternator pulley and I experienced a ticking /clinking noise....just before loss of charging ability due to the pulley coupler failing.
  5. 5rebel9
    Have you made actual progress that there is now electrical power to things, as you post of starter spinning? Now have someone work the key and see if the alternator belt and engine pullies are also spinning with the starter engaged. IF not then yes it could be a starter problem. IF YES and it spins fast with no effective compression resistance of a normal startup, you need to take the TIMING BELT cover back off and see if the belt is rotating with starter engaged. IF not then you have a broken/ stripped tooth cog timing belt that I warned you of in your initial posting.
  6. 5rebel9
    It's from having that pass side grab handle installed ... LOL So "most of a/c components already replaced", Does that mean the compressor itself also? How long ago? the compressor on the 2.4 motors of all similar platform FCA vehicles have a history of weak a/c compressors, and from what I can determine from your posting leads me to think of a failing compressor. IF a/c work was recently done, I'd take it back to whom did the work .
  7. 5rebel9
    To start out with the BASICS, You need to take the alternator back off and have it tested. Only parts stores and shops have the equipment normally used to do this.IF the alternator is OK, put it back in(not hard on the 3.5)and check ALL wires from it and battery cable connections for clean secure fit. IF all is good and it starts and runs GREAT. IF not, like I posted to you before of the anti theft system having kicked on. There are specific procedures to turn it off once electrical system has been checked out and found good. I don't have the step by step handy to post at this time. There is more than just battery and alternator that needs to be checked/changed when encountering a problem such as yours.
  8. 5rebel9
    So far so good with son's Journey. Just got back from my buddies shop on a visit call about when he will be ready with more of my winter firewood purchase, this week has gone from FURNACE to FREEZER. Also asked him about the O2 sensor snafu and he pulled out matched pair of converters from an engine scrap out that still had the sensors in them. Looks like rock auto(and a few others) have a position location typo as the NTK 23161(black connector ) is mounted as downstream bank 1 (firewall side). When I get to work on the journey again and get it up on ramps I'll make sure and go from there as it has to be from underneath the car.
  9. 5rebel9
    As member Oharefred posted and you now report of interior stuff now NOT working. The basic battery system needs first attention, RECHECK cable connections hopefully terminals of the battery cables were cleaned when battery was replaced before. but now a terminal clamp my have worked loose. YES your posted door latch and glove box problem will cause a "not in use" drain on the battery. BUT you should be able to drive and have the alternator charge enough to travel as you posted originally. Your couple week old battery may now be too drained to accept and hold ant jump or quick charge. Also the antitheft system can "kick in" when such things as the door latch or battery connections are not good. My it is sounding like there is more going on than what was originally posted.....
  10. 5rebel9
    And why we now have vehicles that draw power even when shut down that overnight low draw items like electric coolers will kill the battery or have unibody construction that even towing a small camper is not recommended. YES give me YESTERDAY!
  11. 5rebel9
    YES that is good news as member john/Horace posted already, and I will gladly "eat crow" from my first response! NOW as for what's actually gone wrong and figuring it out .... What was going on BEFORE your trip that gave the "before trip" work? What are the engine oil, and coolant levels now? Did you just get fuel before this happened(possible water in the gas)? Did engine make bucking/clattering noises when this happened? You stated interior electrical items still worked properly, so yes we are looking more to an engine OR electrical/ computer control problem. IF just a bad fuel pump, a shot of starting fluid into the intake air hose should fire the engine till it is used up. If no fire, then troubles are deeper in computer controls. In my book, these are the BASICS that need to be addressed. GOOD LUCK and keep us posted!
  12. 5rebel9
    Only way I know of is with a high level scanner . Please give complete info when posting, I was under the impression that only E85 has been being used. IF your scanner has live data and you are good with interpreting the readings, check your fuel trims and O2 sensor readings. There was a problem a while back on newer 3.6's with troubles from the crank sensor and if an AWD a real pain to change. Crank sensor will not always throw a code.
  13. 5rebel9
    LOL ... I thought the same thing when I read this this morning.
  14. 5rebel9
    HMMM, The P2099 has me intrigued along with your posting of "gummed up" injectors. Quite possible there is excessive "gunk" build up on the intake valves as part of the problem along with fouling of the upstream O2 sensors. you've done a LOT of work already, my suggestion if this is a true flex fuel is to run a couple tanks of reg. unleaded with Seafoam cleaner added to the fuel. Otherwise you may be looking at an ECM problem ... from a fast code look up. DEFINITELY keep in touch as how things go.
  15. 5rebel9
    Howdy! My not that common for such low age or mileage. What kind of use does this get most of the time? And just so member here can investigate code diagnostics better, what are the P format codes showing up?
  16. 5rebel9

    Help!

    5rebel9 replied to Tay's topic in Engine & Transmission

    A pretty sorry shape radiator for sure. BUT in order to give any suggestions, you need to tell us what YEAR and ENGINE size is under the hood. Each different engine has it's own "quirks".
  17. 5rebel9
    Quick hint: If the engine spins over rather fast when engaging the starter with little to no effort under say a 10 second crank time. That is a major clue to a broken timing belt.
  18. 5rebel9
    Agree'd , BUT just so anyone following this saga knows ...... The timing belt and water pump and belt tensioner are recommended to be replaced EVERY 105k MILES OR 7 years whichever comes first. It's a pretty big job in the sideways mounting of the drivetrain of the Journey. AND why I jumped on so hard about it and it SHOULD be looked at early on to be sure it is hopefully OK and then go on with checking other things BEFORE throwing in a lot of parts in HOPES.
  19. 5rebel9
    It DOES have a VERY easily replaced filter... and rock auto lists the many suppliers with price ranging from $6.00 to $23.00 and If I were to cross reference the part number, it's probably the same filter as used in my past 04 minivans.
  20. 5rebel9
    Look her, we've posted back and forth for some time and you've spent big money for what did not work and all I'm saying is to take the trans pan down and inspect for internal trans pieces laying in the pan AND if OK there to spend $80.00 in parts that will probably fix your concern. The filter is the pickup point for the trans oil to do it's job inside the trans. It is NOT there just as a lubricant. You are messing with a 3500. reman trans job or 1500. USED trans job by NOT taking the pan down and being sure of what's going on. IF internal parts have failed, no amount of outside mounted parts will save it.
  21. 5rebel9
    To be FAIR to the various "shops" you've gone to with this concern, I'll have to say you need to contact them and closely read your work invoice. From the factory the pan is sealed with RTV and not a gasket as most aftermarket filter kits come with. I prefer using RTV instead of the gasket there.
  22. 5rebel9
    So, am I correct in assuming the trans pan has never been taken off and the filter changed? Even the owners book recommends between 90 - 100 k miles. On all the various "incarnations" of this trans, I prefer a 60k interval out in our very hilly area. It may be a little messy to do, but the pan and filter are not difficult to do.
  23. 5rebel9
    The most BASIC and cheapest thing you can do is to drop the trans pan and look for debris from the inner guts of the trans lying in the pan, if none then REPLACE the filter(if you have not done so yet) and refill the trans with approx. 4 quarts of ATF+4. ALSO ... How many miles on this DJ?
  24. 5rebel9
    although I'm "retired" from the "trade", I still have contacts that see this scenario MANY times. I also am on other forums that use this SAME motor with many posts of same scenario, and 99% of the time it is a broken TIMING BELT. Sorry that I did not respond with how to check it(and it's not hard to do) as member john/ Horace posted after me on how to do. Maintenance wise the only worse motor to deal with ahead of the 3.5 is the 2.7 (thankfully not offered in the DJ) in my "book". CORRECT, don't just throw parts at a problem in HOPES, do the BASICS of diagnosis FIRST. I truly hope the OP comes back with an update as to what they have found.
  25. 5rebel9
    With 170 miles put on after the upstream sensors being replaced, long term fuel trims are a LOT closer now. NO CEL and all operating as proper. I have a feeling from seeing the condition of the sensors that there is probably a fair amount of carbon build up on the vales yet, and am going to try more Seafoam every other tank fill up. My son leaves for work in an hour, and I've already "scolded" him again that the tank is on empty AGAIN. It's not a matter of money, it's laziness!
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