5rebel9

check the NEGATIVE jumper on the strut tower, it's multiple wires and common for resistance from "tarnishing to develope there.

So you got at the battery to test at it's posts.... Loss of voltage by the time it takes to get to the engine bay jumper posts would indicate resistance(dirty/corrosion) of cable connections or cables themselves as they are not the "heaviest" gage wires of cars of older times. Get back in there and clean the posts and cable clamps. Use a light coating of dielectric grease on reassembly.

LOL.... So much for brand loyalty and staying with a certain type LONG TERM(10yrs/2 DJ's & 8 yrs./2 DJ's) I have had numerous and in constant use Caravans and T&C's for 28 straight years and all used with the last 2 being 04 models. Since they no longer make the minivan with the capabilities my OLD gen vans could handle, I got my current ride ('10 Lucerne cxl) for 2 grand and < $500 to "square away" all quirks/repairs. Bought a decent looking used trailer to do SOME of the carry/tow that my OLD vans could handily do. IF not for lack of towing capability of our '11 awd DJ, there'd be another in our drive instead of the Buick! At least my son plans on taking care of our DJ for LONG TERM use!

That's a lot of city driving! One thing I noticed when we got our Journey a year ago, was similar DTE readings, UNTIL we started DRIVING it more distances than "puddle jumping" and stop and go driving. The trip computer even on EVIC reset remembers past usage. Our's has come up to around 385 DTE on full fill up. 14 mpg actual (manual math) seems quite low for your area, even in all city driving. We up in the big hills around Buffalo, NY average 21-23mpg on 30 mile one way drives(not all interstate, but not "stop and go").

Sounds to me like the float or wiring for one side of the divided fuel tank has a problem. Takes some involving diagnosis to find the cause. I doubt the front speed sensor has anything to do with the problem. Keep us posted as to how you "work this out".

Sad to hear the problem persists. Please post exact P codes so members can "investigate" possibilities. There was another with these same codes, as I asked you before, that I'm pretty sure posted back that an intake valve seat in the head had fallen out of place. BIG job for repair. HOWEVER, "in depth" diagnosis" with a borescope thru the spark plug hole should be done to confirm(along with full electrical diagnosis to determine if computer/wiring to that cyl. is working. Along with taking out the downstream sensor and ohm's testing it. On a side note of O2 sensors, 100k miles is suggested replacement time for ALL O2 sensors. I had a bank 1 upstream acting up with the P0420 code (cat efficiency) and replacing all sensors fixed it and brought live data reading fuel trims back to proper and equal readings. Good luck and keep us posted!

Sorry for your somewhat common complaint. I don't really know as there is a way to disable the system. BUT a high level scanner that can check/test BCM controlled functions should point to the cause. A 12 year old vehicle and probably a worn door latch or hatch latch as they are where sensors are located that would trigger the alarm. Particularly sitting or driving and vibrations breaking a contact thus setting off the horn alarm. These are not a quick and easy parts swap to track down and fix the problem type situations. AND then there is the possibility of the steering wheels clock spring going bad as another possible cause. Good Luck!

Well, the knowledge you have gained and helped others with here with your long ownerships and membership here will not be forgotten and still looking forward to you "posting in" from time to time! Good luck with the new ride , and I hope it serves you well.

You replaced input and output sensors already, did you inspect the harness connections and wires for them? Code is for erratic/no signal, so you need to check the wires for good connection, and use a bit of dielectric grease in them.

What engine and trans(4 or 6 sp)

Would I be correct in assuming your 2012 Journey has the flex fuel or straight gas 3.6 motor? The only other lime green fluid (other than some brands of coolant) could be DIESEL Fuel. As a new member, when you post, make sure to give engine/drivetrain specifics as there are a few possible offerings.

A number of possible causes to check out to find a fix. First, is the check engine light turned on on the dash when you drive the car? IF so then this sets a code for diagnosing a problem AND will disable remote start function. Next, there is a hood safety switch that disables remote start if it is not working properly(out of adjustment) as you say remote start works the rest of the day works .

Actually, I'd have preferred dropping to 16" rims for winter use. But the used pair at that price was hard to not go for them. The style 17' rims for summer are either from rt or crew or possible from caravan. the pair he has have the Dodge Ram's head center caps with a nice looking spoke design(not that the OE plain 17's look bad). The pair of used snows was on this pair of rims. going to dismount them and have time to "acquire 2 more rims that match. We're figuring $50 /rim and $50/tpms(4) and whatever price on summer tires plus mount/bal. May go with Hankooks like it has now. Yeah, I hear that a lot on another Avenger forum about the 19" rims. Kind of an odd size and high tire cost. But as I posted, bigger is not practical around here for a daily driver for our road conditions. He works on a "short line" railroad, I doubt they get any "trade courtesies" for transport. LOL

Yes, I did read that thread, but pretty sure by the amount of crud that I got removed from the overall system including what was is the res. tank by multiple flushing's that the core is plugged. I'm not good about posting pics or taking time to take pics of work being done. But let's just say that the drain and refill it got before us getting the car in no way had helped the situation. It was BAD with crud(about the worst I've seen of all my long years of auto working. YUP those "big rims" may be nice for good roads, but certainly not here in my "neck of the woods" or anywhere in NY. And my son was just a bit in "awe" of the price of the new snows, as he's still thinking in terms of the old Neon's prices of things... LOL

10/23/21 UPDATE: Journey has been running fine with no "glitches" happening at all. STILL trying for time and weather conditions for B1S2 O2 sensor change and to do the heater core. Since we now have a full year having the DJ, and son now full time employed, I've wrangled a pair of 1 season old studded 225/65R17 General Altimax Arctic-12 Snow tires for $50 and got a matching new pair for $280. YES my son has paid me for them. When significant winter weather comes close , my friend will mount/balance them @ $20 ea. on the DJ's standard alloy rims and stay there. Come Spring, he's working on a set of 4 matching black more open spoke upscale OE 17" rims (has a pair already). And will put all new TPMS sensors on them and we'll get new summer treads for those rims. Unless inflation hits harder, I figure about $850/900 for the "summer wheel" package... Stay tuned!

Welcome aboard the forum here, from Western NY! What trim and drivetrain does your 09 Journey have?

The battery needs a proper load test done (most auto parts stores do this for free) to see just what capacity is left in this "relatively new" battery. As I stated once, "if mine, I'd get a new battery". ALSO in the little over 2 years since you got this present battery, the battery posts and terminal ends should have been cleaned and a film of dielectric grease used on them to help prevent oxidation/poor connection. YES I know the battery is in a tough location, I've been there and done that even with a bad back for a 62 yr old fellow.

Good to hear that "so far" all seems good! At a bit of a loss as to the "rf and fr modules", I understand the rest of replaced components. YUP, gotta be careful with these computer sized wiring cars now.

And like Paul Harvey ... and now the rest of the story! I have to agree with member larryl. The battery/electrical system can only handle so much drain, time to change your habits.

Seems a little soon for another battery to me. But there again as to maint/care/temp conditions/whatever else is on(uconnect/ other electronics). I take it you don't do much of the "nasty" maint work, but how clean are the battery posts and terminal ends? Do you leave a phone connected(that draws power) ? The audio on these draws more than you'd think what with all that's turned on to play the radio on Acc. This ain't the '70's car systems anymore. BUT due to it not cranking up as you post, ,YEAH if MINE I'd get a new battery, (BUT NOT FROM A DEALER).

There's no way to give you a "time" answer, as there are too many variables that affect "drain" time. Todays cars(yes even your '13) draw a lot of power thru the battery, and they don't last like they used to with older cars. Your posted use times are just about at the limit of what I've noticed for having a "too low to start" battery. I'd suggest starting it up and letting it run for a while about mid cycle of your listening "pleasure times".

Well 3 months ago my daughter traded her Kia Spectra in for same year SEL and LOVES it. I hope it will serve you well. I'm a fairly big guy(280lbs)and with a bad back, and find it a bit of a tight fit, but comfortable. Not near the cargo room of the older DJ like our '11 ,model.

WOW! I feel for you, getting same problem someone else has already messed with. Been there. Not a lot left except to check the electric pump for the power brakes and may have a shot brake booster. The 3.6 uses a pump and not manifold vacuum. I have not run into this situation yet, but there are a lot of posts here of same problem and on another forum for Dodge cars that use the same system for brakes that I frequent, most do not respond to the actual fix other than figuring out improper bleeding. From your posting of talents, I'd assume you did it right.

Surprising that they can replicate the fault yet have "no clue" as to where to go with a fix for it. That seems to be a common failure of many auto techs that rely on the cars computer systems to show the fault for diagnostics rather than using the "tech's" BRAIN POWER training. I appreciate your patience about the situation with them AND here on the forum. GOOD LUCK and keep us posted!

I understand completely about noises from performance exhaust. AND yes sometimes RA has great prices for a part, but shipping is prohibitively high. I was once going to buy a replacement fender for my 04 T&C for $22. till at checkout to find the cheapest shipping was $240. I cancelled that part! It was not long after that I "retired" the T&C and replaced it with my current '10 Lucerne.