5rebel9

HOPEFULLY the member will post back soon as to what they found with checking for the timing belt and then go from there.,

WELL, It just MAY be the downstream ones yet, as I have not pulled them. I ALWAYS inspect suspected failed parts looking to confirm. This is the FIRST sensor with a physical fault I've come across(of many I've replaced) and kind of confirms my different bank trim readings when we first got the DJ. I have not driven or monitored live data readings yet after the upstream sensor replacement. Was just heading into the shower when you posted......

Nope he's still sleeping, he got home from work at 1:30am this morning. I had told him to sleep as he want to go visit the GF and leave around 2:00 today. With his new railroad conductor job, he doesn't get much daily time for activities or weekends now. He is "on call" for the Labor Day weekend so has this weekend off. Going to arrange car use after wife goes back to school teaching so he can use her car and I will still have my ride(just in case) after chauffeuring her to and from work and finish up the downstream sensors and heater core. My outside thermometer now shows 88*

8/28/21 10:15 am They were wrong! Started at 8:00 and decided to call it quits for the day. Got the 2 upstream sensors changed and found the cause of the P0420. The sensor tip "cage" was cracked and under heat was touching the inner section. Only had to remove the air tubes from the air filter housing AND that elbow to the throttle body. Upper intake did not have to come off. It's only 70*f here BUT close to 85% humidity and supposed to now hit 87* today, rain later tonight!....I'm sweat soaked and sore from bending over the hood/engine. Besides the BILLS play the Packers today at 1:00 gotta shower and get ready to watch the game!! One thing that got me upset about the job was my DJ says 1/11 build date, rockauto says NTK23161 for upstream RIGHT(firewall side)... IT is NOT, wrong plug connector and I found this out AFTER installing to the manifold. Took it back out and used one of the other NTK23162, Beside the OE being a white connector and the replacement had a black one, the aligning slots are different. AND RA also lists that NTK 23161 fits downstream left(radiator side)from 11/18/10....IT IS NOT for my 1/11 build date car, It IS the NTK23162.

Dog gone it! Rain back in the picture for early(8:00am) morning then a break till around 2:30 ... IF the weather forecasters are actually accurate. Going to try and get the O2 sensors done and let the heater core wait a bit. Son wants to take the car to go visit the GF mid afternoon anyway!

Ha Ha ... Seems we are a bit more civilized over here near the Niagara Falls area and call that the Canadian BALLET here in Western NY. And NO I've NEVER gone to one (here in the States), and what goes on while on military deployment STAYS on deployment!

Too cool to have "fallen in" with such like that! Reminds me of going to a local car show some years ago as a SPECTATOR and the hosting group INSISTED that I enter the car I came with.... an original(with a few body blemishes) 59k mile 74 VW beetle. I won second in the import class to an MG! And as for the "burn outs" ...Yeah fun to attempt , but as you said about shortening the drivetrain life ...

8/26/21 UPDATE Well the week has almost passed and now the wife is leaving Fri. morning with her car for a weekend with our daughter. Weather has been horrible at home(have to work out in the driveway), MAYBE if my son stays home Sat. I can get at the O2 sensors and change the heater core. I prefer to have a running car avail if I need to make a quick parts run. CEL came on one time after clearing and using the seafoam, now not even a pending code by my cheap scanner. Also NO "glitches" from the HVAC or Cruise control.

YUP it's been that way on a LOT of the FCA vehicles going way back to the '80s. It does not have to be jacked up much to get enough clearance to slide the bolt out or in, and the side mount has enough "give" as to not have to disconnect anything to jack it. Watch out for fitting the left control arm going in, sometimes the angle during install makes some prying necessary. I have not done this job on our DJ, but on all of the many minivans and a couple old FWD cars I've had in the past!

Glad to hear that you concluded it to be from the ABS self testing. Our '11 AWD does not exhibit this concern. BUT I know the front mount is known to go bad(as with many same type FCA vehicles), ands a good thing to at least look at every now and then when under the car for servicing. So was this "check" what motivated you to change the lower control arms?

Sorry to say this, but as an 09 and probably high(+100k miles), but this is the 3.5 TIMING BELT driven engine and there's a good chance that the timing belt broke. And at the speed posted of when it happened, the motor is probably shot.

For BOTH.... Check the front motor mount for torn rubber, if bad you will get excessive engine rock(cold= higher rpm) and changing directions (reverse to neutral to drive) will accentuate the engine rock. Enough movement to have things like exhaust "tap" the underneath or similar.

Sorry John, but when I saw that that pic it was the first thing that came to my mind and I could not resist posting it! I'm in what one may say is "forced retirement" due to physical injury, but still "turning my wrenches" as best I can to keep the family cars and house going..... takes me a lot more time now to work in my limits. and then pay the recoup pain price after anyway. YUP those darned KIA bake lines . . . BTDT on our daughters Spectra last year!

Now it's plain to see from that pic that member John does NOT do a lot of his own car maint. ..... His hand and fingers are TOO CLEAN and NOT nicked up enough! ROFL

8/18/21 UPDATE: Cruise and HVAC controls are working fine, no further glitches there. Parts finally arrived today to do the O2 sensors, and a new heater core. It has not been getting hot like the drivers side will. Going to "cut and hose splice" the tubes, after doing the dash pull on our old Neon, I swore to never do that again! NOW I'll have to wait until next week to do the work as we have rain all this week and this weekend the DJ is needed to move the son's GF from home back to college as I don't have my T&C anymore for him to use that ... BUT I am LOVING it's replacement Buick Lucerne!

It would help if you supplied some info as to year and engine size. "Drone" comes from deleting the resonator ahead of the muffler, which most folks say to AVOID doing such on the various forums I participate on for any vehicle. But NO, I have not tried other than having the nice sounding exhaust note of the stock system of our 2011 3.6 AWD DJ.

Are you sure it is not trans gear shifting stutters? You are due for trans oil AND FILTER change. DO NOT have the trans "flush", have the pan taken down and replace the filter and @ 4.5 quarts of ATF+4. Also should check/clean the throttle body throttle plate for oil residue buildup that is common on these motors.

On our '11 DJ, the rear sync. started doing as posted on the infotainment screen but did not have any of the other fan or temp symptoms. I removed the center dash panel (with the infotainment screen) to get to the HVAC control module that sits right behind the screen. I unplugged the single multi pin modular connector and applied DIELECTRIC grease to the harness pins in the connector and reassembled all, Been a week now and NO further problems...all working as it should.

WOW what a way to have to "bow out" of the "scene" here! Hope all works out for you and your son. That is sort of the fear I have with my son and the late night driving he has to do with his job. Not so much worried for other vehicles hitting them, but the natures wildlife and possible loose farm animals(Deer, BEAR, Horses, Cows) on our twisty narrow country roads.

Glad to hear that you took the plunge to keep the wife HAPPY! Now you don't have to move into the doghouse....LOL Typical that "preps" were made but NOT finished in the structure, at least it's done now and looks good and is functional.

8/10/21 update: Cruise control and HVAC (rear control/synch. settings) working as should after multiple drive times. 2 35 mile drives and P0420 code is still in PENDING mode and not setting off the CEL as of yet. All 4 NTK sensors are ordered. At over 192k miles, it makes sense to do them all and be done with it.

SURE I'll offer something you've "forgotten"(or failed to mention). When going from what you have to a motor that will have to be inline and not transverse mounted, the steering gear and mountings will undoubtedly need a lot of attention/changes. Good luck in your plans, and keep us posted.

NOW I'm glad to hear all is back to normal and "up and running" again! Yes labor rates have gone up quite a bit from my day in the trade, But not a bad price out for the job. I hope the Journey again serves you well for a LONG time.

My son spent Sunday traveling around visiting his GF and such with the Journey. AN UPDATE to the work done.... I reinstalled the HVAC control module Sat evening as I found out the modules are different for non rear air/heat(rear would not work, plugs the same). Used a little more dielectric grease again. Son reported this a.m. that ALL electricals worked perfectly so we will continue to monitor. YES the CEL came back for the P0420, cleared it again today and will see what goes as I order up all 4 O2 sensors. And YES rockauto seems the best priced even with shipping and wait time for delivery. This is not a critical code......

Yes that would be the next step to get it up in the air enough to check, but exhaust sound seems pretty good(quiet). With 192k miles on it, I still think O2 sensors are getting worn out. Now that my son has good paying job, he's not so bad about putting money into the car. Parts are not too bad on price, but the LABOR to change the rear(firewall) bank is going to be NASTY for me to do.