5rebel9
-
Posts
1,204 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
226
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Everything posted by 5rebel9
-
The B1S2 is kind of buried with the AWD model. For the first attempt, at least I found out what will work to change it out when the car is home and COLD again(maybe this coming Sat. morning?) And I agree about repairs away from home. Daughter is 60 miles away and 2 years ago I did front struts (broken coil spring) on her then Kia Spectra in their GARAGE(it was very cold out). Took me longer than anticipated due to NY RUST and NO PENETRATING OIL or "heat" to use there ... BUT did "git er done" all the same.
-
And doing quite nicely! Although I must admit that I do prefer the ride quality of MY Lucerne over the Journey and my past T&C (not that either of them rode poorly) Yeah, I hear you about the insurance "gimmicks"
-
9/13/21 UPDATE Been a while since updating this thread SOOO .... No more glitches from the heat zone synch since unplugging and using some dielectric grease to the connector of the temp control module (not just the main panel). Cruise control working fine after switch replacement. Replaced the coolant temp sensor(193k miles) and temp reading of the EVIC has averaged a few degrees lower than before and very acceptable now knowing the T-Stat STARTS to open at 203*f. Have replaced 3 of 4 O2 sensors, the downstream bank 1 is a PAIN. I needed some specific length 1/2 drive extensions and shorter handle breaker bar to do that one, which I've now got on hand when I can get the car cold again. For what it's worth the headings of the NTK replacement location for the NTK23161 sensor is incorrect on rockauto and a few other sites. It is used as the downstream bank 1 and the NTK23162 is used for the other 3. The long and short term fuel trims of live data readings with my scanner are now equal to each other and after 1100 miles of use NO P0340. YES my son has been driving A LOT the last 3 weeks! Car doing and looking FINE for it's age and miles. Just glad I've been able to do the labor, as parts costs have been very reasonable but if paid a shop...son and I would be cringing! NEXT UP is Snow tires and possibly extra rims for them, THEN come spring he'll need new summer treads. Tires are getting thin but wearing evenly with no abnormal wear patterns.
-
And that is why I focused in on oil. SLOW RESPONSE, wiring is most likely OK. You may need to open up the Valve cover and confirm for possible sludge and oil supply passage for the Exhaust OCS. NOT plug and play parts or electricals. Good luck and let us here on the DJ forum know what happens with this concern on your Jeeps 2.4 motor!
-
Code is for EXHAUST camshaft position sensor SLOW RESPONSE. How long have you been going on oil change intervals? Check/clean/replace the oil control solenoids for the VVT system mounted on the cylinder head. LOL, I see you say you already replaced OCS solenoids. RECHECK that oil is getting to them sufficiently for operation. You may have good engine oil pressure, but that does not mean the cylinder head is getting proper flow. How many miles on this 5 year old 2.4 motor?
-
I just got done with a 15 mile road test after changing the coolant temp sensor. 65* outside temp, and at steady cruise speed of 55mph EVIC read 208*. Under spirited acceleration and uphill(big one) highest reading was 222* and then settled to 216*. The temp gage needle stayed at mid scale once at operating temp, as it should. Will update at a later time once "broken in". For a vehicle whose T-stat opens at 203*, these are VERY ACCEPTABLE numbers. I will discuss the O2 downstream sensors on my own started thread. Let's just say 50% done on them!
-
Some places sell just the "stat", but I don't know why anyone would want to try that as the whole unit is EASY and quick to replace with no risk of improper installation or breakage. For DIY'ers, the 3.6 T-stat unit change is SIMPLE. I've got Sat. morning to work on our Journey and will be replacing the coolant temp sensor along with doing the downstream O2 sensors to finish up that task from 2 weeks ago. Will report after a few days use as to any change in gage readings.
- 18 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- dodge
- dodgejourney
- (and 5 more)
-
After looking up replacement Thermostats for the 3.6 motor on a number of parts sites, I found the OE standard replacement is a 203*f T-stat. IF the needle gage on the dash stays at mid scale and the EVIC display is showing from 215 to 225*, I'm beginning to think there may be NOTHING WRONG. Come to think of it, the wife's 08 Pontiac G6 has only an analog (needle) gage and it's scale reads at 225*f at operating temp. It IS VERIFIED that that is where it is supposed to show and is NOT overheating. On the OP's Journey, make sure the radiator fan does turn on with A/C use nd at extended time of high engine temp without A/C engaged (this will run for shorter time due to temp programmed on/off by the cars computer).
- 18 replies
-
- 2
-
-
-
- dodge
- dodgejourney
- (and 5 more)
-
Thanks for the year update. Although much newer than our 2011 model, but same engine, do NOT put such additives into the cooling system! I have been dealing with the same temp gage readings since getting ours for a year now. BUT have come to figure out that it is NOT overheating at those posted dash temp readings. YES you need to confirm that the radiator fan is turning on and that coolant is not "boiling over", do as has already been suggested. I am leaning to a faulty coolant temp sensor on the engine, but can't get enough time to "play" with the car from my son. I have other work to finish up doing on it soon and replacing that sensor will be among the tasks to do. But comparatively, ours has 193k miles on it and probably many more than yours. Keep us posted as to how things go for you and your DJ
- 18 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- dodge
- dodgejourney
- (and 5 more)
-
LOL....Throw the cow over the fence, some corn. Perhaps I should have used a synonym for getting there FASTER and interjected the word "quicker"(less time) for the OP. I was brought up from a young teen in auto repair, but my MOTHER insisted on proper English! LOL BUT, This whole thread should have been up to the OP to respond to and provide clarification.
-
Pulling the fuel injectors and "cleaning" the nozzle tips (particularly with a wire brush) is not the best way to handle that situation. The spray pattern is done internally in each injector. IF there was that much "gunk" on the injector tips to warrant you trying that, then I'd surmise that there is an excessive amount of intake valve deposits and internally "gummed up" injectors to warrant using a can of Seafoam in the fuel tank and a good LONG drive at highway speeds. Note this is NOT an "instant fix" cure, but more cost effective than new injectors and cylinder head removal for decarbonizing.
-
Rear tapered shims to correct alignment?
5rebel9 replied to phoenix1151's topic in Brake, Chassis & Suspension
YES it is possible to use shims as they offered. BUT that is the "low buck" fix and will not last as the issue is from the rubber bushings of the suspension pieces you have referred to. IF you're going to keep the car for a while yet, DO IT THE RIGHT WAY and have the inspected and found worn parts replaced. -
I've been doing my best to bear with you through all of this. Particularly about the BIG difference between the Serpentine (alternator belt) and checking the Timing belt which is enclosed in plastic covers low on the motor on passenger side. IF that belt has stripped off cog teeth or snapped, there is NO GOING FORWARD to get the motor running. As we can not see your car to tell you just what is needed, these BASIC checks(even tho difficult for a novice) HAVE to be done.
-
Well it is then NOT a starter motor problem if therngine is spinning(but won't start) Rather than try and explain it, I suggest you check out YOUTUBE for a video of Dodge 3.5 engine TIMING BELT. You may come across ones for the Dodge Charger, and that's a good one. SAME motor, just mounted in the car differently. IF you are leaving the car for prolonged times between working on it and posting here, disconnect the neg wire on the strut tower to keep battery from draining if you have draws from the before noted glove box light and door situation.
-
Agreed! and if read by RayRay it needs to be a flatbed and not traditional tow truck being the car is an AWD model.
-
When a cars electrical system is totally drained as you posted of yours doing then normal level scanners will not read any codes as the computer erases(from power disconnected). Only a high level scanner that can read history codes (more than pending/current/permanent codes) can bring codes up that would help figure things out. Other than crank or cam sensor related codes would "clue you into a Timing Belt problem Just what lights came on when the car started to die (but was still running) during your trip? There is the oil pressure (red oil can), Battery light and the Check Engine Light(yellow). AND you did NOT answer ANY of the suggestions posted to be able to help you any further.
-
There is also the possibility that the clutched drive Alternator PULLEY is going bad. With the added resistance of the a/c being turned on can be overpowering the alternator pulley. A '14 model so alternator is probably the original one and about the age of many 2.4 alternator failures. Even my 04 minivan had this type alternator pulley and I experienced a ticking /clinking noise....just before loss of charging ability due to the pulley coupler failing.
-
Have you made actual progress that there is now electrical power to things, as you post of starter spinning? Now have someone work the key and see if the alternator belt and engine pullies are also spinning with the starter engaged. IF not then yes it could be a starter problem. IF YES and it spins fast with no effective compression resistance of a normal startup, you need to take the TIMING BELT cover back off and see if the belt is rotating with starter engaged. IF not then you have a broken/ stripped tooth cog timing belt that I warned you of in your initial posting.
-
It's from having that pass side grab handle installed ... LOL So "most of a/c components already replaced", Does that mean the compressor itself also? How long ago? the compressor on the 2.4 motors of all similar platform FCA vehicles have a history of weak a/c compressors, and from what I can determine from your posting leads me to think of a failing compressor. IF a/c work was recently done, I'd take it back to whom did the work .
-
To start out with the BASICS, You need to take the alternator back off and have it tested. Only parts stores and shops have the equipment normally used to do this.IF the alternator is OK, put it back in(not hard on the 3.5)and check ALL wires from it and battery cable connections for clean secure fit. IF all is good and it starts and runs GREAT. IF not, like I posted to you before of the anti theft system having kicked on. There are specific procedures to turn it off once electrical system has been checked out and found good. I don't have the step by step handy to post at this time. There is more than just battery and alternator that needs to be checked/changed when encountering a problem such as yours.
- 1 reply
-
- 1
-
-
- alternator
- battery
- (and 3 more)
-
So far so good with son's Journey. Just got back from my buddies shop on a visit call about when he will be ready with more of my winter firewood purchase, this week has gone from FURNACE to FREEZER. Also asked him about the O2 sensor snafu and he pulled out matched pair of converters from an engine scrap out that still had the sensors in them. Looks like rock auto(and a few others) have a position location typo as the NTK 23161(black connector ) is mounted as downstream bank 1 (firewall side). When I get to work on the journey again and get it up on ramps I'll make sure and go from there as it has to be from underneath the car.
-
As member Oharefred posted and you now report of interior stuff now NOT working. The basic battery system needs first attention, RECHECK cable connections hopefully terminals of the battery cables were cleaned when battery was replaced before. but now a terminal clamp my have worked loose. YES your posted door latch and glove box problem will cause a "not in use" drain on the battery. BUT you should be able to drive and have the alternator charge enough to travel as you posted originally. Your couple week old battery may now be too drained to accept and hold ant jump or quick charge. Also the antitheft system can "kick in" when such things as the door latch or battery connections are not good. My it is sounding like there is more going on than what was originally posted.....
-
Question about overnight usage of 12V accessory
5rebel9 replied to tdottrucker's topic in Electrical, Battery & Charging
And why we now have vehicles that draw power even when shut down that overnight low draw items like electric coolers will kill the battery or have unibody construction that even towing a small camper is not recommended. YES give me YESTERDAY! -
YES that is good news as member john/Horace posted already, and I will gladly "eat crow" from my first response! NOW as for what's actually gone wrong and figuring it out .... What was going on BEFORE your trip that gave the "before trip" work? What are the engine oil, and coolant levels now? Did you just get fuel before this happened(possible water in the gas)? Did engine make bucking/clattering noises when this happened? You stated interior electrical items still worked properly, so yes we are looking more to an engine OR electrical/ computer control problem. IF just a bad fuel pump, a shot of starting fluid into the intake air hose should fire the engine till it is used up. If no fire, then troubles are deeper in computer controls. In my book, these are the BASICS that need to be addressed. GOOD LUCK and keep us posted!
