5rebel9

I tend to see where you're going with this. I got suckered by the ref. to no trans fluid seen on the ground. But a whole lot more background info(like my last posting) by the OP would be of much help along with what you ask.

Further thoughts..... You say you keep getting this message. Did you just rotate tires or get new ones put on? IF so then you still need to drive the carat least 1/2 mile at 30 mph for sensors/ receivers to learn/self check and CLEAR the warning message. Further postings of concerns to a forum needs to have fullest info possible given for good suggestions to be made.

So FCA finally figured out the need to have one. Not sure of just what driving conditions this "glitch" happens under, normally I'd suggest spark plugs but you say you just replaced them. Only other I can offer is to have a good scanner with live data capability and monitor readings

I set mine at 36 psi (COLD), but there is a sticker on the drivers door (or frame) that has the tire and pressure specs for you. NOTE when changing pressures, to get accurate sensor readings you need to drive the car some for things to update and with warnings to be able to be self checked and cleared.

MY thought is to clean off your engine oil dip stick(after a full warm up) and use it to check the transmission oil level. Take the filler tube cap off and insert the dipstick down it. There is a mechanical stop plate inside, so you can't make it goe too deep. There should be 1 to 1 1/4 inches of trans oil on the stick(hot). There are a number of you tube videos of how to do this.

Actually, warnings can be set if pressure readings (as shown) go too high for TPMS software program. 42 psi seems a bit high, try lowering down some and see what happens. Sensor battery problems tend to have that wheel position drop out showing press.

I feel your "upstate" NY dismay Being in the "Southern Tier". Sorry but I can't offer definitive advice about the pad difference, but you're on the right track about the "rust" cause. Make sure you clean everything well, and also don't forget to keep the rears working properly also! If they "stick up" all the braking effort goes to already overworked front brakes.

On the border near the "PEACE" Bridge? If so I hope our country's military jets didn't invade your "airspace" to create any International incident with you neighbors on Father's Day weekend air show we had. Or I hope that you may have been able to see some of the "action"! Buffalo area is where we do our main shopping/entertainment outings from living out in the country well south of the city!

Yikes on plug cost to you across the border. And think how safe you are being kept by your Gov't. You can't even take a ride across the border to the States and get parts much more reasonably.

Yup, we all make mistakes. AND why it has been posted by members of every one of the forums that I participate on that OP's need to include certain info(like engine size and trans) along with year of vehicle about to be discussed. This I've noted by a number of members even here being asked for as required info on membership info. Yet all(forums) say that this is not possible. Year and trim level can leave some things in question.

When googling" one MUST keep in view of the year/type generation of components to what they have and are looking up info about. The engine/trans available for the Journey(08 - 14) are the same as those offered in the Avenger/200/Sebring of same years. YES there were other manufacturers that made 2.4 sized motors, but that definitely does not mean they are the same motors. And good example as you posted of the Tiger shark motor, the cylinder head is totally redesigned from earlier year with intake and exhaust being "switched" in position and the "Shark" motor is a Fiat design.

Well I CAN tell you that the the 2.4 motor is NOT a GM unit. I'm active on a couple other Dodge model forums. From posts there, The 4 sp. trans does have some issues that say solenoid pack replacement..... that does not fix the problem. there are one or two other solenoids inside the trans that require dropping out the valve body and some there have also reported that mechanicals to the valve body have failed. MY suggestion is to have a good trans. shop diagnose/ inspect the car and you proceed from there.

So you have the 2.4 motor? I thought(but not sure) by the 2012 model both had the 6 speed 62te. I haven't played with the 4 sp. But the same level scanner would pick up on gear line pressures.

My, a multiple problem RF corner. My bet on wobble is the inner CV joint bad, due to how long it was driven with the bad carrier bearing (non existent)putting undo pressures to the joints inner workings.

The 62te trans is an "adaptive learn" programming type. With what you had done you need a good scanner that can go into the trans/ and can/bus and reset trans pressure readings to base settings. This may not be the "total fix" for your problem, but is a recommended thing to have done after solenoid pack or fluid changes.

The car is still "acting up" or codes were checked after having the TIPM unplugged? You could have set loss of comm type codes when you removed the TIPM for inspection(depending on how power was disconnected first). I would suggest clearing codes and then seeing what comes back.

So you are referring to one of the modular connectors under the fuse panel/TIPM? or the B+ jumper post/TIPM power supply?

Well, It will be interesting to hear back from you what the DEALER finds.

I just remembered, the type nut that is used for the jumper post positive and negative cables are a "squished" top SELF LOCKING NUT. they start easy like a normal nut, but increase in turning effort as the stud threads near the top of the nut. This is to prevent the nut from coming loose on its own from any vehicle vibrations. AND probably why you feel the nut is "tight:.

LOL. If you touch the B+ wire as you describe at the TIPM/FUSE PANEL, Then the nut under the red cap is NOT tightened enough to keep wire in good connection. You stated you had it off once.

Try locking the car with interior drivers door switch and close the door. then use the "key"(hidden inside the fob) to manually unlock the drivers door. IF you can roll the drivers window down first, it may be helpful. then see what it does. I know on the Avengers(very similar platform car) that they say this deactivates the anti theft if it was armed.

The battery is a PAIN to get to, but I agree with John. Also clean the terminals and jumper post connections. Do you get the "key not detected" message on the dash?

Yes, "in my day" where I worked we offered 3 types 1 the old fashioned front end (no rear reference, just did our best to have vehicle "square" on the rack) 2 front align WITH rear refence (no adj's made to the rear) 3 4 wheel align where all 4 corners are checked and adjusted where needed We also put each vehicle thru a thorough suspension inspection for worn parts BEFORE proceeding to alignment. IF there was work needed, align was not done until owner was advised/or repairs were made. SOMETHING I've been seeing go away unless extra fee is paid. Kind of like the old time services of gas stations. .... for us OLD FOLKS!

I don't normally suggest dealers. BUT it depends on the individual dealer if it has a good alignment machine and "rack". I myself would use an independent alignment/suspension shop. Most of them will try their best to have everything to optimum settings and not just "in the range tolerance".

You WILL want to have an alignment done if the units you got are slotted like that. It is there for being able to adjust the camber of the wheel, Some places will charge extra to install a special eccentric head bolt for precise adjustment. Others will just loosen the 2 bolts and have an assistant pull on the wheel for adj. and then tighten bolts back up. I did this kind of work and alignments for 20+years. When struts first began use, replacements were not slotted and we had to grind the bottom hole to get camber adjustability. Middle years they started coming thru slotted (aftermarket), and lately I've seen the trend back to regular bolt holes, but some still are slotted. Properly torqued, TOU will be fine and the slot gaps will NOT be of any concern.