5rebel9

You ran the vehicle with no coolant, and yours probably has rear heat. So a lot of air can entrap in the whole system. Do not put a gallon or so in and try to run the car, let it sit and self fill from the res. and keep topping up. This will take a good bit of time to do. A blown head gasket will normally show the symptom you describe within 2 minutes of start up. There are many possibilities as to just what is going on that we here can not see on your vehicle, and a good bit of info given by you is lacking than to make more than a guess as to where the problem is and how to fix it.

Just what size infotainment screen do you have the 4 or 8" ? This last spring I had a weird draw problem that turned out to be the 4' radio module(easy fix), but went thru HE(double hockey sticks) to track it out on our '11 model(same set up as your year). A LOT of stuff runs thru the CD/ radio module before going thru the BCM. Spend some time and watch that all dash lighting turns off and stays off(watch at least 3 minutes) when shutting down for any length of time between uses.

Thanks for the replies! Yes I did some searching and saw about the 2 fuses for the SCCM. And I'm familiar with the switch issues also from the many Dodge models that use the same switch(Avenger/200/Sebring/Ram). My friend has at least 3 vehicles to pull one from and try, if it's not a blown fuse. Probably do it Friday as MOM won't need HER G6 and son can use that for going to work. Hey for a vehicle rapidly getting to the 192K mile mark, some small things NEED to start wearing out! ... LOL

You say "ATTEMPTED" to jump start a buddies car. Did you hook the cables up wrong? YES if that happened, a lot of possibilities as to just what all damage it could have done.

Sorry if this has been answered before. Son' tells me this a.m. before heading out the door for work that the CC won't turn on. Had enough time to pop the 2 fuse panel covers to see about a fuse and could not find one. NO basic OBDII codes or EVIC messages and all seems to be fine with the car otherwise. Anyone here have any idea besides possible steering wheel switch(I've already thought of that). I get very little time now to play with the car as son works 12 hr shifts with another 1 hr. driving time r.t.

Welcome aboard! Sounds like a great "game plan" to me!

Under the conditions you post, I would be looking at the EGR Valve and piping. If I understand your post you are watching "live data" from the scanner, and NOT getting a CEL or codes? Also did you make sure there were no exhaust system leaks(cracks) between the upstream and downstream sensors?

I guess that the rear heat panel has only done this a couple of times, I drove it for a 50 mile round trip on Sunday and saw no "glitches". He said that the rear activates and it "unsynchs." the front setting he uses. When he is not working and at home, I may just pull both controls(front and rear) and check and add dielectric grease to the plug in connectors for a start and see what happens from there.

Well the Journey is doing well and relationship with my son is improving. He even paid most of the current 6 month insurance premium for the Journey AND for oil and filter and the cost of the tire sensor! Liking the Journey better now, as MPG's seem to be around the 24 mark and only a couple less than the G6. I've stressed on him about letting me know about any odd noises/ clunks and such when driving any of our cars so they can be "checked out", his latest report is that the rear heat control seems to be acting up and showing it's odd behavior on the "infotainment screen". Which ANNOYS him greatly. Seems ours has developed the same rear control panel problem that I've read about here so much. Has anyone confirmed the rear panel to be the actual cause?

Welcome to the forum. Did this just start happening or has this been a long term problem you've put up with? If FOB will unlock the drivers door with one "click", Try 2 clicks in rapid succession to see if the other doors also unlock. This would be a programming thing that you should be able to change to single "click" for all. As far as the drivers master switch on the door, it may be going bad as to why it won't unlock the the other doors.

That's very odd, as the body structure is the same(as far as I know) the nutserts should be there. Just the headliner should be without the holes to go thru.If you can't do it, maybe a good repair shop (paid of course) could drop that section of the headliner and confirm, then all that would be needed is the holes cut in the headliner upholstery.

LOL ... I thought as I read your update post that it seemed rather quick for the job to be finished already, But who knows about how quickly things can get done out in Indiana!

Glad it is running again! I HOPE a new filter was put in at time of install. If not you would do yourself(and the DJ) a favor by replacing it and the 4.5qt. pan drop at 750 - 1000 miles. This will give an opportunity to see how good the "B grade" trans is doing.

Good to hear that all is back to normal! YUP, one commonly overlooked possible cause is BAD GAS.

Was not trying to be short with you. Having to ask 20 questions to find out what could be going on is not how to get good help. Miles on the plugs is a proper starting point as you say it still seems to "run like a champ". Unless all of a sudden engine performance has also dropped drastically (like in 2late4u's post above).

IF I did not think so I would not have posted it to you or anyone else. What type driving(engine run time, speeds, distances) do you mainly do with the vehicle?

Well you're ride is about 15k miles overdue for fresh spark plugs and if they are too worn, you'll get fuel ratio related codes. I'd start there as I doubt the converters or O2 sensors are the problem. Keep in touch on how things go.

Couple of questions... after this. Welcome to the forum! Now what size motor and miles? What has been done for maint, spark plugs, air filter? How long has the CEL been on before deciding to try and track down the problem?

WELL .... I guess you saved by not spending money on the shift solenoid pack. Sorry that my unsaid hunch proved correct. I tried to look up just what trans. is in your 2.4 engined and found that listings showed either the 4 speed 41tes or the 6 speed 62te. You should be able to confirm just which you have by the gear speeds available from when it was running correctly. Most all here say that the 2.4 uses only the 4 speed 41tes, but like I said in looking it up on parts sites it shows both for the 2.4 motor. Good luck and keep in touch!

that's the part. And with dropping the pan, you'll only need 4.5 quarts(but you'll have to buy 5).

The solenoid pack is mounted on the front outside of the trans case., the pan does not need to come off for that part replacement. It is fairly pricey to buy and many times posts report no better trans function. This is still an auto trans with the same inner workings of OLD school (pre computerized) transmissions. If mine, I'd start with what I suggested. Good Luck and post back any results you come up with.

Welcome aboard the forum. Many ask of the solenoid pack loc. and change, with a site search I'm sure you'll find your answer. BUT how many miles on your DJ? And if fluid was low, what was the coloration of it? It may be less costly to drop the trans pan and change the filter and aprox. 4.5 quarts of ATF+4 first. This will give you a clean and unobstructed trans oil pick up for operation, and by dropping the pan to do so, will let you see if there is any clutch material or metal bits actually causing your problem. On all my many Mopar vehicles I have (and had), I change the trans filter EVERY 30 - 40 K miles.

Okay, well welcome back. Sorry you're still having problems. Was re reading your "saga", first off a FLUSH is the last thing you want to do. more troubles happen from this alone. Next did they even drop the trans pan and replace the filter? If not, that's about the only thing you can do without a good clean work area for valve body removal(also involves dropping the trans pan). When you DIY don't cheap out and do just a specific part, replace related "consumables" like filter and make sure to use ATF+4.

It is not regular maint to do what you had to do. BUT once "squared away", good treatment and driving style should not see a return of the same problem. I trust with all that done you did put in fresh spark plugs. And if you have a scanner with live data capability, you can monitor fuel trims and such till all completely clears up.