5rebel9

Pretty sure the Alternator is what's making the noise. It uses a decoupler pulley on it for belt drive and they are known to go bad. Best bet is have the alternator output tested and be prepared to REPLACE the whole alternator. And also you really need to keep up with normal maint intervals like spark plugs on these 2.4 motors. Not "judging" you, but it sounds like the engine has only had oil changes thru most of it's 100K+ miles. Your owners book has the info of this.

A good scanner with CAN/BUS capability that can go into BCM controlled systems should point you to the fault now that you know the system causing the drain. From my recent experience with our 2011(same stuff), I found actual wires to be well secure and that most probably you will find it in the "hands free" module. Some have posted of similar happenings and said that due to cost and lack of need for the feature , that they had the module connection disconnected. I'm pretty new to these "new fangled" electronics, so I can't offer much more help. Good Luck, and post back how things "work out".

OKAY, was just doing some "dreaming" lately...... The car that the radio module came from was equipped with auto headlights and fog lights(front end already used, fogs are gone) It also had wheel buttons for phone and Uconnect. I am currently running with the BCM from this car, as it was too much of a pain to swap the original back in. Does anyone here think that swapping the headlamp switch(EASY to do) and the wheel switch would bring these functions to "life" OR are there other modules that would also be needed(and probably VIN coded)? Seems to me that I remember there being a auto headlight ON/OFF in the settings screen of the 4.3 infotainment head, which the "donor car" also had.

That motor uses TWO thermostats. You say you fixed LEAKS, did you also replace BOTH thermostats?

Well there is the old "standby" of disconnecting the Negative wire from the jumper post on the drivers front strut tower for 10-15 minutes and then hooking back up. But I don't think this is the needed "fix" to the light problem. Good Luck and let us know how you get this "worked out".

There is no "reset" for when the Throttle control light comes on. It means something has gone amiss in the throttle body. I take it you have the 2.4 4 cyl. engine? Not knowing how many miles on the DJ, many times checking and cleaning the TB and making sure all hoses and electrical hook ups are good will turn that light out by itself. I don't know of any other way possible for that to be extinguished, as that warning light is a "stand alone" warning light of problem for that specific item. The TB is known to wear(multiple gear driven throttle butterfly actuator) and cause the light to come on. It would not hurt to have even an Autozone type parts store do a free scan for you just to be sure nothing is "lurking" in computer memory that would indicate troubles.

My, a lot of work for giving no background as to WHY all this was done. If you did all this to try and turn out the "lightning bolt" light.....well that is a outright warning light for the THROTTLE BODY. What motor size and did you have it scanned for OBD11 codes? And check the electrical connections to the throttle body.

Not sure if the "fix" would be the same for your DJ as they underwent a big redesign in 2011. I would start out with checking/cleaning the grounds on the strut towers. also a good independent shop should have a higher level than basic OBD11 code scanner that can read all systems(BCM/ABS/SRS) to help narrow down area where the problem is. A dealer level scanner can go even further to test each system and component, but it will cost you. Also if you have had any "add on" installed over the years, I would recheck any spliced in wiring for them.

With 186K MILES now on our 2011, the last "snafu" of the radio causing a short and keeping the dash lit up was annoying to find the cause, but EASY to fix(another radio that's plug and play). STILL really like the car for what it is, even though the gamble we took on buying it with a possible dying trans did bite us. I can't speak as nicely to MANY GM models as was posted prior here. ALL cars have their own "special quirks"!

I hope the damage was not too great to the front end. thanks for the updated info. At the miles posted, it is due for spark plugs( they seem to do this with all FCA models with the 2.4 motor). I hope you used an OEM brand crank sensor, as aftermarket ones seem a hit or miss in working properly with these motors. Keep us posted as to how things work out thru the next couple uses, as I'm not sure by your posting if your problem is now "squared away".

Also, If you're not big into repairing vehicles, you may want to consider having a reputable shop do a full systems scan(and not just OBD11 engine/trans codes). This will give you stronger "footing" on how to proceed in finding the problem.

your postings indicate happenings that stem from intermittent loss of electrical power OR ground. A few more specifics, such as engine size and AWD/FWD would be helpful.

MY bad... Found the features in settings screen....I just was not going to the right sections and they were turned off. All back to the way we had them before the problem arose, Now just have son set his radio preset stations!

Thanks to all who responded and offered suggestions. Just a little "post op" follow up.... Lights stayed out overnight(as they should). My son will have to reset stations of his preference today. I did notice that I've lost one or two infotainment screen features from the original unit. Like brightness control and door entry lighting. Must be a lower feature CD/radio box than what we had. Could not test it in the parts car donor as it was pretty much scavenged out under the hood. BUT am happy that it's working and all other features work properly. I hope this SAGA helps others in tracking down similar problems they may be having.

END OF THE SAGA!!!!! IT'S FIXED !!!!!! It was a bad radio/CD player module. Got hold of my friend and went and pulled same 4.3" screened CD player module from a 6/11 model for my 1/11 DJ and tried it. Radio and all functions worked with just "plug and play" AND with shut down EVERYTHING turned off and STAYED OFF (until I turned things back on). For me NO PARTS COST just LOTS of my TIME checking and trying anything related to possible cause WITHOUT having wiring schematics. I'm NOT new to the Journey anymore as my new member introduction posting said!!!!!

Wish there was a longer lasting EDIT function here..... Of course I failed to mention that NO heat or flashers or stability control buttons work with that plug disconnected from the radio/CD player. Along with any Infotainment screen functions. At least the start switch and cluster are turning off!

OKAY REAL PROGRESS!!!!! A NICE but "coolish" day today after night time SNOWFALL. I can't explain why pulling the radio fuses did NOT help the problem. BUT I took the center stack components out and one by one disconnected the plugs to them. When I pulled the CD/radio box and unhooked it's sole wire modular connector, the start button and cluster lights SHUT OFF. Going to try getting ahold of my friend to try one from his 2 "parts cars". I may not be able to do anything until Monday, as it is the weekend and he needs at least SOME "family time". Stay tuned!

Basic Mainstreet model. NO remote start, No nav. or blue tooth. Just 4.3 screen with single CD player below. Last things to try are the screen and heater/radio controls and the CD/radio "box". Problem is that I'm not sure that the "box" can be changed without code from previous vehicle messing things up. Still waiting for run/start schematic to arrive.

Rains stopped but cool and windy. So I took door panels off and disconnected door handle sensors.... NO CHANGE except got the service keyless system on EVIC.

People do not want to look for the answer to their question anymore. They just want to ask directly and get the answer. I do believe that TORQUE SPECS have been posted before for most all things engine/trans. AND brakes. Nice thing about a Forum is that ALL posts are on record and don't "disappear" when the subject matter is done, and why there is a search function and topic headings to quicken things to finding what is needed.

YUP and lovely Spring weather for working outdoors on the car! Was great weather for last posted work. BUT yesterday was all day RAIN (1.5") and today a cold front with temps in low 40's* with strong winds. Some SNOW forecast for tonight ;:( but Sat. to be about the best weather for the next 4 days. MAYBE tomorrow I can pull the panels AGAIN.

Thanks for the observation of your rides actions. That does give a second opinion to door handle issue. DUMMY ME I did NOT try unhooking the handle sensor connector(which would disable them) when I had the panels off. It's not hard to pull them back off and try that as I'm still waiting on wiring diagram to arrive. I was quite confident that my repair to broken wires in the handle(that gave EVIC message of Service Key) was a GOOD fix. But who knows what could have happened in the almost year since.

WELLLL...... I spent all day Tues. Pulling every powered fuse and relay in both fuse boxes with NO change to the problem. Took off both door panels and checked wiring to the body, and all was good. My friend is getting wiring schematics for the run/start system from a Dodge Dealer he has good rapport with. It is not coming up lately, but we has been getting code P2355(run/start circuit shot to battery or open). Reminding here that ALL functions are working, just that the dash does not completely power off and restarts the 4.3 screen and gage cluster which will then stay on and kill the battery. I'm hoping it's not the fob receiver module, as I hear that and new fob(s) can be very expensive.

I'm currently well posting of a problem with my 2011 model. Drained battery from dash and Infotainment screen powering back on and staying on after parking the car. Take a minute and watch that the gage cluster/EVIC and screen along with the "off" light of push start do indeed go out and stay out. Mine will relight after about 45 seconds. THIS is NOT GOOD.

Without posting that.. I've basically already done that and why this problem is so perplexing. But you raise a good point, maybe in the morning I'll go at fuse pulling again. Such a pain as each fuse pull has a wait time for "keep alive" power to shut down to be able to tell. Still strongly feel for driver door latch or a wire in the "boot" from door to body.