5rebel9

OK, latest update. I'm back to the original problem of dash shutting down and then restarting on it's own and staying on. Pass. reverse and hatch tail lights out was the hatch harness was 5 broken wires. BUT NOT in the bend area in the rubber boot. It was inside the body almost exactly where the boot plugs into the body. Key shutting off but with loss of many lighting functions and EVIC in Spanish was 1 of 6 modular BCM connectors was actually no engaged properly. Everything else is back to normal. There is NO reflash or relearn for a BCM, the PCM/ECM can be reprogrammed/flashed by a dealer. I'm back to "old school" about possible door latch sensor OR more broken wires in driver or pass front doors. Panels will have to come off to inspect/repair IF trouble is found there. LAST possibility would be the non Uconnect but single disc player box. I know some Sedan Avengers had radio problems not shutting down and killing the battery. MAYBE our DJ is having a similar problem????

NEWS! Well after enduring the side effects of 2nd Moderna vaccine shot and then a few days of rain and SNOW and COLD temps..... I tried swapping over the BCM from the "twin" today. Dash shut down as it should, BUT found out that it had been programmed for EVIC language for Spanish. Tried another BCM from a 2012 and still had EVIC in Spanish but dash shut down with touching the screen off icon on the infotainment screen. For now, I'm content that dash and start switch lighting turn off and will see if one last available BCM will do better maybe tomorrow. Awkward to replace, but not too terrible a job. Will be spending time "online" to see if I can reconfigure BCM functions or if I'll have to have a DEALER reset things. Short list of things still not working or now different Inner hatch lights and R reverse light still not working....NO code showing for it Lost pass side temp control Now has Daytime running lights ON.... did not have before EVIC in Spanish , infotainment in English When we "gave up" for today, there were a total of 6 BCM codes hanging on, All other functions were good. STAY TUNED for further developments! .....

WELLL???? NOT the TIPM. BUT I spent time working the NICE scanner my friend has while he was involved with other things. LOTS of BCM codes for loss of CAN connection and such and a PCM code that was P2533. I ended up clearing ALL and restarted the car and 2 codes came up immediately. P2533 and a Body code of B218311. Brought it back home and disconnected the ground again(to save the battery). Will go back over again tomorrow and re run for codes and my friend says he will have some time to work with me on it. OH and it did show a code for back up light out as circuit power shorted to ground before clearing codes. It did not come back like the other 2, but is still out along with the inner lights. STAY TUNED...I ain't giving up YET!

Are YOU doing the work or having a shop do it? Have you taken the driver door panel off and inspected the wires that run from the master switch THRU the door and into the body? Common for wires to break at the door hinge area from 12 years of use. as for A/C and control lights, that would be a separate issue, and possibly a bad control panel.

YUP, you're right that schematics and manuals would make this a LOT easier. I've left the dash alone for now as on Mon. morning before heading to my friend I got my son to actually help me check ALL lights. I've been working pretty much alone, and now I've got a pretty good clue as to what may be going on. Seems the both inner hatch tail lights and the pass side reverse lights are not getting power. And hatch harness is GOOD, I checked the "bend" area and even pulled the trim to check at the harness connections inside the car.. YES I've rechecked ALL fuses in both boxes and now am thinking that the TIPM may be the culprit. Other chores will make me wait a couple days for more work to be done on the DJ. At least when I get this car back to normal, I won't say that I'm new to the Journey anymore! I'm getting a real self learned education on this one!

Yeah, it got to the point that I didn't want to do this for a living anymore and went to a different trade(now "retired"). Always do as much as I can with what tools and equipment I have(or can get ahold of) for my own cars and certain family members. Without time pressures, I love the challenge of finding and fixing car problems. along with doing the NORMAL car maintenance. But with todays computerized cars, electrical problems are pretty tough!

OK the saga continues. I decided to leave my friend alone for the weekend (so that we might remain friends). Have spent hours searching and getting all kinds of complaints with FEW actual success postings.. Also went and tore into the center dash again and took out the battery and had it tested, It was good but only at 55% charge, understandable as it was not put on a charger, but it's back in and on a 2amp trickle charge with the neg unhooked from the body point. Now what I found were many complaints of radio not shutting off with door open and a number of them said head unit itself(4.3 screen).YUP with the radio left on mine does the same. UNFORTUNATELY I did not find any successful end postings. And some threads were from this forum and on other forums with members from here responding. I guess as a former "tech" that I was using too specific wording for searches. My game plan is to go see my friend on Monday and pull the complete 4.3 screen and lower control panel and the CD player box along with the BCM of the "twin". So as to recap symptoms our Journey has is that all things function normally until parking the car. It shuts down and then restarts the head unit and gage cluster. The push start button NEVER turns off and remains lit in the center and showing the OFF setting. Can any of our senior members here that are aware of this problem PLEASE post me some links to threads here, hopefully with what the FIX likely was?

Go0nna go pull the BCM and gage cluster from the "twin" tomorrow. and quite possibly the 4.3 screen and attending module. Dash is easy enough to work on to try, the BCM is in one heck of a spot in the A pillar behind the glove box!

Well it's not the push switch..... ;( Your 2nd part response does make some sense as I did repair drivers door broken wires for sensor unlock in the door handle at time of purchase. as it was giving message on dash to service key(?) Have not had any "messages appear since. ALL those systems seem to be working FINE. Also we would routinely leave fob in the cubby(on dash)at home with no problems before this happened. I'm still wondering "old school" about faulty latches that may not have the micro switches working properly in the latch assemblies.

WELL, that's one thought about the situation! SORRY, but that's not an option. Car is in too good of shape overall to let go less than a year after getting it being a Maryland (Southern car) that was brought up to our Northern rustbelt area. This is so far not costing me in $$for this problem and previous repairs have been dealt with quite fairly. Just my time and effort...which gives me something to do, AND learn about these new fangled highly computerized systems. Remember, I'm not the average car owner. I used to do this for a living, but retired about the time all this BCM controlled stuff came along!

After thinking about this as I drifted off to sleep last night....... I'm going back to "old school" diagnostic thinking. the car is 10 yrs. old and 185k miles. 2 items that are involved with this concern have switches that get a LOT of use/wear. First being the drivers door latch that has switches for lighting and door close, BUT those function. SECOND being the push start switch. I'd noticed that this lights up first closely followed by instrument cluster and then the 4.3" screen. THIS item has me strongly wondering about contact wear causing the problem. Just "throwing this out" for anyone following here and may have thoughts.......

Found a couple saying BCM and one that said no help. Found a couple said it was in the instrument cluster pod, one was from Dodge dealer shop foreman. BUT alas NO DEFINITIVE resolutions found as of yet. Have access to inst. cluster pod and BCM, neither are "5 minute quicky" removals, and rains are in the forecast for the next couple days and have to work outdoors! Any help appreciated, and YES all things function normally other than this problem.

after working for 4 hrs. with my buddy that I got this DJ thru ... A complete scan of electrical and BCM functions showed it a code for the headlight switch not being correct. We swapped one from a "twin" parts car and all was good for codes. Still having the instrument cluster and 4.3 screen WILL initially power down(off), BUT within a minute it comes back on and stays on. Right now I've disconnected the 2 ground wires from the strut post to save the 1.5yr old battery. Found on various google searches that a BCM power glitch OR even the instrument cluster to be the culprits, we are both doing searches at this time trying to get a handle on this situation.

2011 3.6 AWD with 4.3"(?) small screen. Instrument cluster and infotainment screen staying powered on. NOT door latches as dome lights go off after proper set timer. Not glove box light as it's off. Play around with push start and things turn off for about a minute then turn back on. It did this once about a month ago and I thought that son had not fully closed the Drivers door. It just did this to me after a short drive with it and after an hour the inst. cluster and infotainment screen are still on. WHAT TO DO?

To answer a wonderfully worded account of FAILURES..... I'm surprised that NO MENTION of checking battery(LOAD TEST) and alternator output was done or mentioned. ALSO being a BMW tech, he should know that car batteries today do NOT LAST much beyond 4 years now. NO MENTION again of battery, which provides the "juice" to spin the starter motor.

I had a similar situation with one of my Chys. minivans that I bought well used... Turned out a mouse had built a large nest in the fresh air pick up in the cowling beneath the wiper assembly. The van could not draw in fresh air for the fan to move it thru the vents. Worked OK on recirc. mode. I've not "dived into" such with out DJ...yet to be able to say about HOW to go about checking/clearing that possibility.

With the symptoms you describe, the most common fault is internally collapsed front brake hoses. A quick way to check is when the pads are binding up to crack open the bolt at the hose to caliper and see if the wheel then spins.

Are you a DIY'er? First thing to check is the shift cable end out on the trans for wear where it connects to the trans selector rod. The range "sensor" is inside the trans, and I THINK can be reached by removing the FRONT cover and "solenoid" pack. NOT hard, BUT must be careful(not a novice job).

08 G6gt Sedan 04 T&C minivan (factory tow package) 98 Avenger es (currently stored) SOON to arrive....2010 Buick Lucerne cxl

Normally a very dependable motor. That said with flashing CEL did you also try and pull codes from the computer? Being a VVT motor there could be a problem with that system making timing not correlate with other sensor inputs to the computer. Yet more questions for you...how many miles on it and what kind of maint has been done in the recent past to the engine? There are many possibilities as to just what may be the cause to your particular concern, but background info offered is very thin to go into specific suggestions.

Please don't take this personally, BUT just what size engine is under the hood of your DJ? Better info can be offered when members don't have to start out with the 20 questions game. LOTS of new members seem to do this,.

Nice job! I've replaced similar bulbs for dash cluster lights in many dodge vehicles, but not in HVAC controls to know what they used. Also I'm to new to the Journey to have been working in the dash stuff yet. I don't even have a cheap Haynes book yet for ours, like I usually get for each of my cars.

Sorry, I must not had enough coffee in me yet that I missed that. But I still believe the alternator to be OK along with the rest of charging system controls( the ECM also plays into charge rates). I do believe the battery to be the culprit being 5 tears old. As for my posting of "do what you want"....I think you have just gone a long and overly involved process in reaching your same conclusion.

Well, voltage readings are a FAR cry from what you posted of 14.5v earlier! AND in your area, 5 years on a battery is a LONG time and would definitely be on the worn out side. Do what you want, it's your vehicle......

This may not apply to you directly, BUT also a good way for an emergency delivery of some of that GOOD Canadian beer that we can't get in the States due to the higher alcohol content. I was deployed to CFB Bagotville for "cold weather operations training" USMC air wing back in '79. And man was it COLD and REAL SNOW amounts! Our CFB host squadron people were the BEST and taught us "gyrenes" how to really enjoy the liberty time! And I thought that Buffalo NY got cold and snow.........