5rebel9

Sensor for bank 1 and 2 are the same. YES have to pull the upper intake off to R&R them. rockauto price is relatively inexpensive, and at that mileage would not be a bad idea to replace both. Like any high mileage sensor that gets hit with oil all the time, a small crack can happen that lets oil get inside and "knock out" sensor reading. I had this happen with the crank sensor on my '13 3.6 AWD.....not so easy to replace as the CMP sensors.

Many "regulars" on the forum here know of my connection with an independant shop owner friend. He maintains a taxi service fleet of 10 various year T&C/ grand Caravans. We've had quite a hot summer here south of Buffalo,NY and therefore ended up replacing the radiators on 4 of those 10 this summer to take care of much the same situation you and a few others have posted of. Van radiator is not cheap, you may want to invest in a laser pointer heat gun to "shoot" temp readings up and down the radiator.. Markedly lower temps down low would indicate poor flow from sediments trapped in the core tubes of the radiator, which means less heat transfer overall and higher temps especially slow speeds or idling. On all 10 he has gone to aluminum "Y" pipes and T-stat housings along with making sure of proper fan operation. Many times "backflushing" these radiators is not enough to remedy the problem.

Pardon my "butt in", but For the age of vehicle and knowing of the thin radiator core with integrated trans cooler and a/c condenser, I'd rather believe that a clogging radiator to be more suspect than clamps.

So many possibilities for someone not knowing maint history,{stutter/ 30k beyond spark plug change time eg.} . Full blast a/c does draw on the engine and computer trying to make stable is hard when plugs or injectors re not in good order. As for interior fan, could be related to engine rpm flux or weak battery. Good luck, and keep us posted! BTW did you ever find that bolt location???

You did not say it had already been tried before I responded, and is a simple step to do. Yes it could be a bad mount, but would have to be in pretty bad shape and plainly seen by your mechanic since he also went thru all that work to replace the the axle shaft. Looking forward to how this "plays out" for your Grandson's ride!

OK so a '15 Crossroad trim DJ. BUT what engine and miles and is it auto temp{and being used in that mode} or manual control?

I have not heard of slight drift in cars for some years now. BUT in my day a a tech we noted such as you describe as TIRE PULL. Try cross rotating the front tires and see if the drift stops or pulls LEFT, if so it will need a new pair of tires. I used to "play" with these kind of problems all the time35-40 years ago when I did primarily suspension/brake /tire and alignment work.

Like you stated earlier, Salvage yards have closed up around me also. My 'saving grace" is my friend who has a repair shop with a "mini" collection of parts cars, mostly Journeys and Vans.

I hear you loud and clear about rather self repair original parts, BUT I had heard of many complaints of the early Avenger/Sebring/200 door panels not holding up well with time.I would liken the early DJ's to be the same on that account{I've seen a few 09-10's}. The door panels should all be alike for mounting and switch locations----break down and find good used later year and do all of them. I personally think later years used better materials, and yes year to year panel designs may have changed, but not affecting mounting. Consider it an UPGRADING MOD. 😁

Other than material/pattern looks, I'm pretty sure the door panels all mount the same. Consider "upgrading" to a matched pair up front or find a pair that look close to what you have. Journeys are getting older now and should be a good number in salvage yards now. All 3 of our Journeys are parked outside at all times, and don't have any interior problems in the Western NY area. On really hot days {80*+} I crack a rear door window just enough to let the even hotter air inside the car escape. BUT I live out in the country and don't frequently go into urban areas where one would want to be all "closed up" for security reasons.

Most cost effective and less time consuming would be to go to a you pull it salvage yard and get complete panels and just swap them out.

Thanks for posting these diagnostic charts @Dean H! This should help this member out of their problem nicely! I don't have ready access to such materials, but from my own experience would have followed such instructions anyway. But I could not explain and detail well enough to somebody else what to do. Keep up the great job here on the forum!

I would suggest going after the P0340 code first, if engine{especially a 4 cyl.} is not operating properly or even intermittently, the PCM will deny trac. control and cruise control. In my understanding, you are correct in thought of it not being a wheel speed sensor or you would have codes for it. You have a high enough level scanner since it read the C121C-00 code.

VERY INTERESTING! One question, did you already have a backup camera wired thru the car or did you have to do that also? My friend says I can come and take camera and any needed wiring from one of his parts carts for the wifes '13 RT {big screen radio} and equipped with back up SENSORS that show in the EVIC screen between the gauges. I get so little down time with that car that it's hard to take things apart just to see what I may need. Of course I'll be using the factory mount location.

Good to hear that you've found the very likely source of your cars concern. YES that is quite unusual to have happen, and I have 3 DJ's to care for of mine. ALL are pushing 200k+ miles and not that problem!

It matters NOT where you are located or if garaged or not, wires in harnesses can and do break and must be tested/checked. The fusible link wire is an Orange wire to the big 8mm{13mm socket nut on the starter solenoid. IF that is blown or a break in that wire thru the harness to the PCM, you WILL have loss of charging system. There are a number of threads with stp by step and diagrams posted on the forum, mainly by member Dean H.

And you have tested and are certain the fusible link at the starter main stud is good? A broken or badly frayed wire in the harness can show the same symptoms that have you thinking PCM.

The ball joint base is pressed into the steering knuckle and the stud end goes into the lower control arm....That's the way they were designed from the start of the Journey{and the Avenger/Sebring/ 200}. You won't find such a part as you wish for. Look up the control arm and Ball Joints on rockauto.com, you will see and understand WHY.

MY apologies... I should have RE READ your initial posting, sounds like you've pretty much done all I suggested.

Is this an AWD or FWD model that you have? IF AWD, you may want to check front power take off unit fluids, rearward shaft carrier bearing, FLEX coupler at rear differential/viscous coupler AND fluid level in rear differential. MY '14 DJ gave me a weird noise and shake a little while ago. The rear diff. gear lube was LOW and the FLEX coupler was VERY cracked{but still together}. I had no sign of fluid leak from the differential, but refilled and then replaced the flex coupler and all has been good since.

I've not PERSONALLY had to diagnose/repair such a problem as this, BUT my shop owner friend had a same type problem that did. He showed me his "in process" work and also what he found when I visited with him. Turned out to be a broken wire in the harness between the TCM and transmission. It was in a wire harness that went clear around the engine bay, but the break was located like 2' from the TCM. He spliced a new wire from the TCM side break to the corresponding connector at the transmission. Point being said.... NEVER rule out wiring just because connectors look good.

Since you state that there ARE controls in the middle seat headliner area.... YES you have 3 zone HVAC. Driver front, Passenger front and REAR.

A GOOD independant shop would have a "high level" scanner that will access all codes and HISTORY of fault activation of such things as ABS/traction control. I have a OBDLINKMX+ remote "dongle" and the accompanying program on my tablet that will do the same after I free downloaded "enhanced features" to the basic program that came with the "dongle". Cost me about $60. for that, and as I did not have a tablet or smart phone... another $175 for an android based tablet. Works great for these type of pesky problems.

Watch videos relating to TOUR cars ENGINE SIZE the 3.5 is a different engine altogether from the 3.6. NO there is NO CHAIN REMOVAL for doing a 3.6 engine water pump, just the serpentine drive belt.

AND VERY WELL STATED!!!!