5rebel9

I agree with member john/Horace, but with a couple additional "observations" of the OP'a info given. A 6 year old car with that low of mileage? what is the typical driving use{short run city driving at lower speeds}? IF SO I would suspect "dirty injector{s}" or carbon build up / fuel soak on the intake valves where fuel is sprayed. Try running a can of Seafoam in the fuel tank on you next fill up. As was stated they cleaned the TB and plugs; that year should have the much longer lasting platinum plugs as original equipment, so I question the need to have replaced them. And YES the crank sensor is a known WEAK LINK with the 2.4 motor AND will cause problems WITHOUT throwing a CEL or CODE until near a "full failure" condition,like crank no start or "stalling out" while running. Aggravating for you, YES good luck and keep us informed on how things "work out" for you!

For a code to show up the actual plunger of the egr valve has to malfunction. This does NOT rule out the pipe having a hole in it that goes from the EGR valve to the exhaust manifold....and probably the cause of "loud muffler" sound.

Agreed, you can "reset" the oil change reminder at any time if not already showing. I personally go 5k miles between changes and use the trip "B" reading in the trip info page for my "reminder" on all 3 of our Journeys. Just a note to you, miles driven between changes does NOT absolve you of opening the hood and checking oil level with the dipstick!

2.4 motor uses TWO thermostats the higher temp opening "stat" may be stuck closed. that COULD be why only "overheating" {is there loss of coolant?} on long drives. I suggest changing both stats if the housing{made of plastic} is NOT leaking and is a common problem for the 2.4

JD used to be a fav. beverage, but Santa bringing me some nice firewood {instead of coal} would go very nicely at my home! It's been a cold ,wet and snowy season here since Halloween! MERRY CHRISTMAS to all!

A pressure test of the cooling system would be a good start, and also test the radiator cap {most pressure testers can also check the cap to be sure it is functioning properly also}. Note the thermostat housing {mounted on the transmission end of the cylinder head} is prone to leak as it is PLASTIC with O-ring seal. From your report, I would question that the higher opening temp thermostat is sticking. The car uses TWO different temp thermostats in that housing I speak of and I would suggest your friends shop replace both of them IF they find NO LEAKS. IF you had a bad head gasket it would run poorly and be bowing out coolant and smoke out the exhaust...In short wording, you would see and know something MAJOR like that was happening. High digital temp readings you post of can be from a sticking shut 2nd T-stat, since you post that the temp gage comes back down some with interior heat turned on when the temp gets that high. Good luck and keep in touch!

May all your cars' problems be as easy as a bad fob battery! Glad you found the problem and another fob battery fixed things.

Check for broken wire in the rubber boot between rear hatch and body of the car. Quite common on our DJ's to do such and NOT blow a fuse.

Check the battery sensor on the negative post of the battery and fuse F179 {probably in the inside the car fuse panel}. most likely it is a badly corroded connection as the 2 wire plug on the battery sensor is quite small gage wiring. You may need to replace the whole sensor unit and the harness plug end. Good luck and let us know what you find!

IF that is a picture of your car, YES that is the fusible link wire that is blown and must be replaced.There are replacement fusible link wires and some even have ones that incorporate a blade fuse instead of fusible link wire{it is NOT regular wire}. Time for you to do some "googleing" on the internet.

You will be OKAY. There is a filter screen on the pickup and that small part should NOT block or get sucked into the fuel pump in any way. BE MORE CAREFUL next time......LOL

Good to hear that you decided to "tackle" the job and seems to have worked out well for you! BUT for your 2 posted error codes {1} go back in and recheck crank and cam timing marks {2} may have to do cam sensor and crank sensor "relearn", which requires a high end scanner

Engine size would be most helpful to post, the 2 choices in the NA market each have their own quirks. CEL on? full coolant and not boiling out????

Brake light switch mis positioned under the dash at foot pedal?

Well, after a shop has checked it over like you post. Drive it AND monitor for misfiring coming back and CEL AND monitor interior heat quality{low coolant will cause low heat} drive the car as normal and keep a check on fluid levels under the hood.

SUGGESTION: POST the codes you came up with and how many miles on the car.Then we have information to work with. Normally pressure will be in the 80-90 psi range at start up and drop to 30-40 psi after warmed up.

Well, your "old" VW and many more vehicles are so equipped and are the "NEW" technology. IF you ran vehicles with as many miles/years as the one I do, when need comes to replace components you would probably scream at the price of those type calipers. Yes the Pacifica and Chrysler/Dodge minivans also went to the electric parking brake around 2017 Saab used the manual screw in pistons for parking brake use way back in the early 80's with the 99 model.....don't ask me how I know....LOL !

Just asking on why your thought on the subject. using makeshift or the proper tool? MANY cars with incorporated parking brake in the rear caliper have been around for at least 20 years now. And all have different "variations" of size pin/slots to engage the caliper pistons. Sure beats trying to get at traditional seperate under the disc hub parking brake shoes.....especially in "the rustbelt" Northeast!

Being the 4 cyl. the easiest way is to pull the spark plugs again and compare #2 plug to the other 3 looking for tip damage or clean wash compared to slight darkening of the others. I learned this "trick" WAY BACK in my YOUTH. IF all look the same, then you may have a coil going out and a stuck shut T-stat. I would suggest replacing BOTH stats at same time.

For the REAR calipers, that is correct. slight pressure and turn in.

OKAY, YES if piston is not in any way "sticky" the cube will "make do" work. BUT none of the sides are a really good fit . YES on my first set of rear brakes{the'11} I made it work, BUT the proper tool works so much easier and less hassles of trying to press and turn with a ratchet/extension . I would suppose anyone outside the Northeast "rustbelt" area would also be able to make the "cube" work for a one time deal, but I will go with the proper tooling as stated by 2late4u and have the set from Harbour Freight . Also: note the "cube" I have is 20 some years old now and MAYBE they have updated the cube by now. Note: that for my Buick..... the cube works perfectly, but the HF kit covers a multitude of vehicles.

I'm not sure which size engine is in your car. IF a 4 cyl, then a possible stuck shut thermostat{it has 2}. BUT I also suspect you may have a blown head gasket.

Yes, the rears have to be pressed AND turned in to bring the piston back into the caliper. The so called "universal" cube does NOT fit the the dodge caliper pistons, ask me how I know having 4 of these cars! Parts stores with tool rental should be able to "hook you up" with the needed tool.

Yes it's official now, I got a '13 sxt 4 cyl.model from my sister and brother in law for $400! Motor has 60k miles and body at 185k miles. Known needs are as follows Rear camber arms {I have adj. ones "on hand"} front and rear brake job { Has the "big brakes"} TIRES Drivers door due to inner bottom rust. { my friend has an exact color match/no dents/scratches/rust for $50. if I pull it} Bluetooth/phone non functional, never worked when bought by my sister. {if needed my friend has a couple BT modules for LOW price if I pull} Due to the season, I plan to let it sit for the winter and make it a Spring project {yes, it will be started and moved around to keep things up}, and then put up for sale to make a few bucks So, my son has the '11 mainstreet 3.6awd The wife has the '13 RT 3.6awd I have the '14sxt 3.6 awd and now this '13 4 banger and yup, I still run my '10 Lucerne! I'm not much of a picture poster, but if I can get my son's help and his DJ in the driveway, I'll "line them up for a group shot and have him help me post it here!

Without looking up the bolt spec.'s, I'm pretty sure the 2 bolts for the "stat" are 6mm, so the holes in the cover should be a little bigger. Are you sure they sold you the correct bolts? Your pic. can't tell definitely, but bolt looks to be an 8mm, and definitely would not be correct for engine or stat housing.