5rebel9

I also had NO reservations doing the "cut and hose splice" the the heater core on our '11. NO WAY that I wanted to do it "by the book" on a DJ, I did do a '04 Neon almost "by the book"{dash removal}, but cut the HVAC case to get the heater core out. This was on my son's first car and it almost made me not want to do any dashboard related work on any Dodge models! Yes paying dealer rates is a KILLER and I think as a way to make people trade in and buy a new{er} vehicle from them.....MORE MONEY!

Very high labor rate and that to do the heater core replacement "by the book" requires the a/c to be evacuated and disconnected and the WHOLE dashboard and steering column to be removed to replace the heater core. A "monster size" job. Find an independent shop for a quote and to do the job. Some states do not permit a registered dealer or shop to replace the heater core by the "cut and hose splice" method due to potential hot coolant leak spraying inside the drivers side footwell area as member 2late4u replied to you. Biggest SAFETY concern would be lack of windshield defrosting ability for vision.

Labor rates are exorbitantly high in some areas, all we know of this member is that is located in the northeast US. IF they are in a big city area, then I would believe their "quote", but I would be looking for a HIGHLY RATED INDEPENDENT SHOP. VERY FEW DEALERS actually care about the customer, just want the MONEY.

I don't know what that cable is for and I have FOUR Dodge Journeys ranging from '11 - '14 and NONE of them have that cable. Sorry to have given an incorrect response earlier!

It is the string cable that slows down the glove box door from fast opening when the latch is released to open the glove box. Many times when underneath dash work{replace cabin air filter,blend door actuator, access to interior fuse panel} the string breaks at the plastic end that goes to the door OR somebody forgot to hook it back up.

Sorry to hear of this. It is a BIG JOB to replace the flex plate, I know as my '14 cracked the flex plate due to a faulty torque converter and both had to be replaced. Definitely NOT a DIY job unless you have full shop capability as the trans has to come out. I do NOT recommend continued driving with it until repaired as the flex plate can further crack and separate which can damage engine and trans. My shop owner friend has had a few DJ's and vans towed in and found this "worst case" scenario. Good luck!

As with GM, Ford MOPAR and any other vehicle make.... CLEAN the GROUNDS{-} at the drivers side strut tower nice and clean along with the wire eyelet ends, and then coat with DIELECTRIC GREASE on reassembly. Next step would be to remove the TIPM and check the condition of all those wires underneath it. Yes you will have to remove the base that the TIPM mounts to in order to do this. Keep us posted as to any progress.

Must have been just a "glitch"! I went out on errands a couple hours later and all was working fine. MAYBE the cold and some ice got into the handle and had the handle not fully retracted flush as normal???? IF it was a broken wire, either in the door jamb or in the handle, it would have given the service keyless entry message on the EVIC screen between the gages. it did NOT do that. Gotta love these COLD snowy winters ! Supposed to go down to 10^f or even a bit lower tonight !☹️

Sorry to hear of your recurring "camera" problem. MAYBE that's why I have not pushed hard to retrofit a camera system to any of our rides. The wife and I are by age trained longtime well to use our mirrors and turn our heads to back up......LOL !😁

Well it's 20*f and light snow here. I went out to my '14 after remote starting it and the drivers door did not unlock upon grasping the handle, FOB unlock works . The button to LOCK the door {in the handle} works, along with all other door functions. This is NOT a big deal for meas my FOB is always in my pocket to use, and it's too cold out to work on the door panel and check things out right now....maybe when winter ends sometime in JULY it will be warm enough to dig into it. It has been a few years since repairing the door handle on our '11 for broken wires inside the door handle, but for my current '14's "glitch" I don't think that's the problem. I think it may be the sensor itself.

I have the alphaobd program, but have not used it much other than to program fobs and add remote start function on '11 - '14 DJ's. I did not notice any setting to disarm door lock requirements on the menus that I used for remote start. ALL cars with factory remote start AND 3 aftermarket units I've installed in the past on older and other make cars have the protocol to have the doors lock as part of remote start function. Sorry but my vote for your wish is a NO vote.

First of all, what was the outcome of the electrical problem you previously posted of? And now, with all pulleys disconnected from the crankshaft this would indicate possible heat shield rattling on exhaust parts{cat converters, underbody shields} OR a possible bad crank pulley OR even {and I hope not} a cracked flex plate {flywheel}. The latter is rather difficult to fully inspect due to limited viewing area . Time to have a GOOD and REPUTABLE SHOP check it out.

Just what brake work have you done, just so all here can be on the same page with you. IF you replaced the rear pads, how did you retract the caliper pistons? they have to be turned and pressed in at the same time . Try jacking up the rear end and apply the parking brake and see if the rear wheels are locking up {simulating that they are working}, IF NOT then the parking brake actions inside the caliper and piston are bad , meaning replacement calipers are in order. Those pieces inside the caliper piston also determine brake pedal height and firmness of normal brake action. This is much the same as having properly adjusted rear brake shoes on a drum brake system.

Having 3 of these 3.6 cars and all high mileage.... yes you can replace the oil pressure sensor without taking much apart. BUT it involves some "special tools" and excellent dexterity. Otherwise the upper and lower intake manifolds need to be removed and NEW gaskets used on reassembly and for a first timer , A LOT MORE than an hour of time.. There are many YOUTUBE videos of both ways to change the sensor. What I found on my '14 was there is a small screen filter on the oil pump assembly that had gunked up and caused my problem, but that deep in to get at it and high mileage that I opted for a new complete oil pump. Note : both my '13 and '14 now have the aluminum oil filter/cooler assembly on them, and my '11 still going with the original plastic filter/cooler.

From EXPERIENCE!!! Check engine oil level. My '13 cracked the oil filter/cooler housing and was gushing out the oil when running and also gave the code P06dd. Leaking oil from this part will accumulate on the top of the transmission if you open the hood and look down at the motor and and trans on drivers side. It is NOT RECOMMENDED to drive the vehicle with such a leak, could ruin the engine. I got lucky and replaced the filter/cooler assy. and oil pressure was good and code went away, no further problem. and YES on my '14 got the code and it was the oil pump assy that John/Horace referred about.

DITTO ! But let us all keep in our hearts and minds for those affected in the tragedy in New Orleans this EARLY morning

I agree with member john/Horace, but with a couple additional "observations" of the OP'a info given. A 6 year old car with that low of mileage? what is the typical driving use{short run city driving at lower speeds}? IF SO I would suspect "dirty injector{s}" or carbon build up / fuel soak on the intake valves where fuel is sprayed. Try running a can of Seafoam in the fuel tank on you next fill up. As was stated they cleaned the TB and plugs; that year should have the much longer lasting platinum plugs as original equipment, so I question the need to have replaced them. And YES the crank sensor is a known WEAK LINK with the 2.4 motor AND will cause problems WITHOUT throwing a CEL or CODE until near a "full failure" condition,like crank no start or "stalling out" while running. Aggravating for you, YES good luck and keep us informed on how things "work out" for you!

For a code to show up the actual plunger of the egr valve has to malfunction. This does NOT rule out the pipe having a hole in it that goes from the EGR valve to the exhaust manifold....and probably the cause of "loud muffler" sound.

Agreed, you can "reset" the oil change reminder at any time if not already showing. I personally go 5k miles between changes and use the trip "B" reading in the trip info page for my "reminder" on all 3 of our Journeys. Just a note to you, miles driven between changes does NOT absolve you of opening the hood and checking oil level with the dipstick!

2.4 motor uses TWO thermostats the higher temp opening "stat" may be stuck closed. that COULD be why only "overheating" {is there loss of coolant?} on long drives. I suggest changing both stats if the housing{made of plastic} is NOT leaking and is a common problem for the 2.4

JD used to be a fav. beverage, but Santa bringing me some nice firewood {instead of coal} would go very nicely at my home! It's been a cold ,wet and snowy season here since Halloween! MERRY CHRISTMAS to all!

A pressure test of the cooling system would be a good start, and also test the radiator cap {most pressure testers can also check the cap to be sure it is functioning properly also}. Note the thermostat housing {mounted on the transmission end of the cylinder head} is prone to leak as it is PLASTIC with O-ring seal. From your report, I would question that the higher opening temp thermostat is sticking. The car uses TWO different temp thermostats in that housing I speak of and I would suggest your friends shop replace both of them IF they find NO LEAKS. IF you had a bad head gasket it would run poorly and be bowing out coolant and smoke out the exhaust...In short wording, you would see and know something MAJOR like that was happening. High digital temp readings you post of can be from a sticking shut 2nd T-stat, since you post that the temp gage comes back down some with interior heat turned on when the temp gets that high. Good luck and keep in touch!

May all your cars' problems be as easy as a bad fob battery! Glad you found the problem and another fob battery fixed things.

Check for broken wire in the rubber boot between rear hatch and body of the car. Quite common on our DJ's to do such and NOT blow a fuse.

Check the battery sensor on the negative post of the battery and fuse F179 {probably in the inside the car fuse panel}. most likely it is a badly corroded connection as the 2 wire plug on the battery sensor is quite small gage wiring. You may need to replace the whole sensor unit and the harness plug end. Good luck and let us know what you find!