5rebel9

Glad to hear you got it figured out. Yup those small pesky items in the cooling system can cause big headaches. BTW : I take it your DJ has the 3.5 motor??

That being I believe a Volkswagen motor that uses a timing belt and NOT a chain. Have you had proper service intervals followed such as Timing Belt replacement done? That code COULD be thrown from a belt that jumped a few teeth. You need to check the BASICS of proper engine timing. Also by Kms posted the Timing Belt should be replaced anyway., A worn Timing Belt can loose teeth and/or jump timing. Worst case is destroyed valves and pistons should the belt break.

I'd have to look it up, but the crank bolt pattern for the flex plate should be the same if the torque converter bolt pattern is different. So then a swap of the flex plate would not be an unduly hard task.

The 2.4 is a 2.4(engine only, not trans with it). Yes may need to reuse intake manifold. BUT the thing to watch out for is that same emission motor is used. IF you have a Federal Emission model, then a California Emission model will not be a direct replace. The cylinder head and Exhaust manifold is different. I've come across this problem on the Avenger Forum I participate on from many 2.4 motored members. Also don't mix the PZEV version either. There's an under hood sticker that will tell you what type yours is ....stick with that.

Some even had MANUAL pop open windows.....I've had many over the years from '85-04 models. First one I had was 27 years ago ! I preferred the LWB over the "shorty" models.

As per the title of this "topic"..... YES we are out there. My son and I are totally happy with our recently acquired 2011 AWD main street edition DJ! Did NOT finance purchase of $4 k, and YES did have to spend another $1.1 k for another transmission. BUT here in Western NY, this Maryland transplant DJ is all my son's needs and more. Underneath is like new yet and NO body rust (rare for a 10 yr old car here)! Plan on keeping this ride for a VERY LONG TIME.....

08-14 Sebring/ Avenger/ 200 folks complain just as loudly of the same battery location. Actually there is more working room on the journey than those afor mentioned! AND I've seen worse on some GM models.

Well it helps that we have a LONG professional work relationship(over 30 years), that I.ve helped him on a number of problem jobs also. I retired from the profession but he is running his own shop for the last 15 years. I also get my winter firewood from him and the steady business I do with him goes a LONG way. Remember..we are both way out in the country and not like in an urban area. In fact he wants me to check out a '10 Buick Lucerne with lots of dash warning lights coming on yet seems to run just fine. Car belongs to a distant relative who wants out of it but needs to get fixed to sell or sell as is (to a guy like me)....which is a STRONG possibility! Winter is not being so kind to my T&C and come Spring SHOULD be retired. YEAH I KNOW... a BUICK being talked about on a DJ forum?????? ROFL !

Well it seems like it's been forever, but when one remembers of the Holidays and work schedules.... My guy had a 2012 model with 90K miles ON HAND, ALL IN $1,100 parts/labor/sales tax. Flushed trans cooler and lines, new trans filter and oil. The bad one without tearing down seems to be either the torque converter went OR the trans pump failed. Torque converter was heat discolored. Picking the Journey on Sunday afternoon., he is doing road tests with it starting from Wed. thru then. He also has personal DJ's so DEFINITELY knows how the trannie should "act". So far he is totally satisfied with the new used trannie and very sorry that the situation came about for us. BUT I knew and understood the "gamble" of the known trans issues when he first acquired the vehicle, so yes he did work with me very well about it! Will keep up a running update as when we get it and how things go in future postings....Stay Tuned!

What size motor in it and how many miles on it? Could be anything from a bad rad cap or a coolant leak that is allowing air entrapment, which can cause the symptoms you describe.

Certain parts were used for his girlfriends Neon. The body of his was rotting out bad, but motor and trans are good. It is currently at my friends awaiting parts calls or scrapping out come Spring.

WELL, it has happened. When we bought our DJ, we knew that the original seller had said that there was major trans problem with it which after putting 2k miles on it that it was just the solenoid pack. Well the DJ died out on the road with a totally failed trans this past Sunday afternoon, luckily only 15 miles from home. AAA towed it back to my friends shop, and initial diagnosis is to replace the trans. YES my son is "bummed out" about it, but I'm NOT. This car is well worth getting another trans, and still not be "underwater" on value. I'm Heading over there today to set up a "game plan" and projected cost to get it back on the road, will post up results this evening.....stay tuned!

When did the "grinding noise" start, before or after doing the brakes? Check the dust shields, they can bend and scrape the rotor pretty easily.

On that age vehicle, members are correct that it's probably the heater core. I had the same concern and flushed the core and got back great pass side heat on my son's '11 DJ. Loss of pass side heat is a common heater core issue with the DJ/Avenger/200 and a number of other FCA/MOPAR models.

Just checking in after a forced absence due to my PC getting fried by a power outage surge...Just got a new PC and set back up. Looks like a LOT of reading and responding to do from almost a month of being "out of the loop"!

Well, definitely different dash layout from our "new to us" '11 model that has seperate driver/pass heat controls thru the audio screen that your's does not seem to have. Don't know if possible you have air entrapped in the heater core, as you didn't mention that this was immediately after hooking all back up from the heater core change. But from all you've posted, that's about the only thing I can think of. When you manually moved the blend door, did temps on drivers side change?

Could not say it any better than posted! BUT will add that further "leak inspections" should be done(but was NOT posted of coolant loss). The 2.4 T-stat housing is known for numerous leakage points, not only of coolant, but of air entrance IF coolant has been lost. And definitely try a new rad cap! I was waiting for further info from VGall89 because no mention of coolant loss in the post made.

Just as I had feared for the car. But that should have been a timing CHAIN and odd to hear of that going out as you posted, the motor would have been making some odd noises for some time before breaking. A lot of work and cost for sure to bring it back to life, let us know what will be done as for SURGURY or a FUNERAL for it.....

I can't speak from experience with the DJ on brand that does best...yet But I've felt that Gabriels seemed a bit softer in ride quality over Monroe/Moog in may many other past Dodge/Chry vans and cars. Of course it is the springs that make the difference in cornering and the hyd. shock portion that controls the compression/rebound on rougher roads. And I've found that "quick struts" tend to use the softer spring rate springs. I was very disappointed in curves and rough road susp. travel in the Gabriel struts I put in my 04 T&C with factory tow package (firmer springs). But I just watch my speeds and road craters more closely to compensate now.

Not a lot of truly "made in USA" stuff anymore. With quality come cost, how thick is your wallet for budget? Check out rockauto.com, I've used them for many years now and am very satisfied with purchases from them. Just watch the shipping at checkout if you use them, some items have exploded in shipping costs lately. For example Just 2 weeks ago I was going to buy a replacement LF fender for my 04 T&C for a GREAT PRICE of $27.00...Cheapest shipping was $220.00 for that $27.00 item!

If indeed you have a single zone front heat and not the separated front heat. I would think that manually closing the blend door(or opening it would also change the drivers side heat level, something you did not post of observing. IF your front heat is changeable for pass. side from drivers side, there should be another actuator and door that you've missed for the pass. side. I've also read on another Chy. forum of the rod in the HVAC box to the affected door coming apart so that actuator or manual movement does not function even though those parts move. I'm new to the DJ line but not Dodge/Chry., maybe a bit more "clarification on just what you've got would be helpful as I know some folks say single zone meaning just front heat and not rear heat(a separate system) and others saying dual zone meaning driver and pass. side separately adjustable.

Welcome to the forum. But have you done any electrical testing to determine dead? The J is 11 years old and power motors don't last forever(just like the slow drivers window) Check out youtube for interior door panel or power window motor replacement for any journey up to 2014 to give you a clue on what you're about to get into. And if you feel you don't have the skills needed to do such, I'd suggest a reputable independent repair shop to diagnose and repair the problem. PLEASE keep us posted on what goes with your Journey's journey to fixing it's ailment.

I've had mopars for over 25 years and never had good luck with BOSCH brand O2 sensors. I'd suggest try replacing the downstream one with an OE brand like NTK(or NKT...I'm partly dyslexic ,,,LOL;) ) Run some Seafoam in the fuel, it will also help clean out the converter.

What kind of driving do you do and what other CEL codes have you had in the recent past with the J? If a lot of short drives are done , put a good dose of Seafoam fuel system cleaner in the fuel tank and DRIVE highway speeds for the tank over the course of a week and see what it does. The 2.4 is not known to be that troublesome a motor. Also inspect the exhaust system for any cracks or openings between the upstream and downstream O2 sensors, They can throw some pretty weird codes if air can get in before the downstream sensor. And it is the downstream sensor that is the primary trigger for the P0420 code, Note these motors are also pretty finicky on OE brand sensors, Hope you used OE.

Sorry to hear that Insurance policy would not cover it. A good chance that that was the START of the problem, but now you will still have to repair what "smoked" under the hood. Pretty intensive to track all out and costly repair if not DIY. I'd start with the antenna and module you post of. Then start testing TIPM relays and fuses AND the wiring that goes into the TIPM underneath it. That should be enough to keep you busy till CHRISTMAS...LOL PLEASE keep us posted on any updates and progress.