5rebel9

your postings indicate happenings that stem from intermittent loss of electrical power OR ground. A few more specifics, such as engine size and AWD/FWD would be helpful.

MY bad... Found the features in settings screen....I just was not going to the right sections and they were turned off. All back to the way we had them before the problem arose, Now just have son set his radio preset stations!

Thanks to all who responded and offered suggestions. Just a little "post op" follow up.... Lights stayed out overnight(as they should). My son will have to reset stations of his preference today. I did notice that I've lost one or two infotainment screen features from the original unit. Like brightness control and door entry lighting. Must be a lower feature CD/radio box than what we had. Could not test it in the parts car donor as it was pretty much scavenged out under the hood. BUT am happy that it's working and all other features work properly. I hope this SAGA helps others in tracking down similar problems they may be having.

END OF THE SAGA!!!!! IT'S FIXED !!!!!! It was a bad radio/CD player module. Got hold of my friend and went and pulled same 4.3" screened CD player module from a 6/11 model for my 1/11 DJ and tried it. Radio and all functions worked with just "plug and play" AND with shut down EVERYTHING turned off and STAYED OFF (until I turned things back on). For me NO PARTS COST just LOTS of my TIME checking and trying anything related to possible cause WITHOUT having wiring schematics. I'm NOT new to the Journey anymore as my new member introduction posting said!!!!!

Wish there was a longer lasting EDIT function here..... Of course I failed to mention that NO heat or flashers or stability control buttons work with that plug disconnected from the radio/CD player. Along with any Infotainment screen functions. At least the start switch and cluster are turning off!

OKAY REAL PROGRESS!!!!! A NICE but "coolish" day today after night time SNOWFALL. I can't explain why pulling the radio fuses did NOT help the problem. BUT I took the center stack components out and one by one disconnected the plugs to them. When I pulled the CD/radio box and unhooked it's sole wire modular connector, the start button and cluster lights SHUT OFF. Going to try getting ahold of my friend to try one from his 2 "parts cars". I may not be able to do anything until Monday, as it is the weekend and he needs at least SOME "family time". Stay tuned!

Basic Mainstreet model. NO remote start, No nav. or blue tooth. Just 4.3 screen with single CD player below. Last things to try are the screen and heater/radio controls and the CD/radio "box". Problem is that I'm not sure that the "box" can be changed without code from previous vehicle messing things up. Still waiting for run/start schematic to arrive.

Rains stopped but cool and windy. So I took door panels off and disconnected door handle sensors.... NO CHANGE except got the service keyless system on EVIC.

People do not want to look for the answer to their question anymore. They just want to ask directly and get the answer. I do believe that TORQUE SPECS have been posted before for most all things engine/trans. AND brakes. Nice thing about a Forum is that ALL posts are on record and don't "disappear" when the subject matter is done, and why there is a search function and topic headings to quicken things to finding what is needed.

YUP and lovely Spring weather for working outdoors on the car! Was great weather for last posted work. BUT yesterday was all day RAIN (1.5") and today a cold front with temps in low 40's* with strong winds. Some SNOW forecast for tonight ;:( but Sat. to be about the best weather for the next 4 days. MAYBE tomorrow I can pull the panels AGAIN.

Thanks for the observation of your rides actions. That does give a second opinion to door handle issue. DUMMY ME I did NOT try unhooking the handle sensor connector(which would disable them) when I had the panels off. It's not hard to pull them back off and try that as I'm still waiting on wiring diagram to arrive. I was quite confident that my repair to broken wires in the handle(that gave EVIC message of Service Key) was a GOOD fix. But who knows what could have happened in the almost year since.

WELLLL...... I spent all day Tues. Pulling every powered fuse and relay in both fuse boxes with NO change to the problem. Took off both door panels and checked wiring to the body, and all was good. My friend is getting wiring schematics for the run/start system from a Dodge Dealer he has good rapport with. It is not coming up lately, but we has been getting code P2355(run/start circuit shot to battery or open). Reminding here that ALL functions are working, just that the dash does not completely power off and restarts the 4.3 screen and gage cluster which will then stay on and kill the battery. I'm hoping it's not the fob receiver module, as I hear that and new fob(s) can be very expensive.

I'm currently well posting of a problem with my 2011 model. Drained battery from dash and Infotainment screen powering back on and staying on after parking the car. Take a minute and watch that the gage cluster/EVIC and screen along with the "off" light of push start do indeed go out and stay out. Mine will relight after about 45 seconds. THIS is NOT GOOD.

Without posting that.. I've basically already done that and why this problem is so perplexing. But you raise a good point, maybe in the morning I'll go at fuse pulling again. Such a pain as each fuse pull has a wait time for "keep alive" power to shut down to be able to tell. Still strongly feel for driver door latch or a wire in the "boot" from door to body.

OK, latest update. I'm back to the original problem of dash shutting down and then restarting on it's own and staying on. Pass. reverse and hatch tail lights out was the hatch harness was 5 broken wires. BUT NOT in the bend area in the rubber boot. It was inside the body almost exactly where the boot plugs into the body. Key shutting off but with loss of many lighting functions and EVIC in Spanish was 1 of 6 modular BCM connectors was actually no engaged properly. Everything else is back to normal. There is NO reflash or relearn for a BCM, the PCM/ECM can be reprogrammed/flashed by a dealer. I'm back to "old school" about possible door latch sensor OR more broken wires in driver or pass front doors. Panels will have to come off to inspect/repair IF trouble is found there. LAST possibility would be the non Uconnect but single disc player box. I know some Sedan Avengers had radio problems not shutting down and killing the battery. MAYBE our DJ is having a similar problem????

NEWS! Well after enduring the side effects of 2nd Moderna vaccine shot and then a few days of rain and SNOW and COLD temps..... I tried swapping over the BCM from the "twin" today. Dash shut down as it should, BUT found out that it had been programmed for EVIC language for Spanish. Tried another BCM from a 2012 and still had EVIC in Spanish but dash shut down with touching the screen off icon on the infotainment screen. For now, I'm content that dash and start switch lighting turn off and will see if one last available BCM will do better maybe tomorrow. Awkward to replace, but not too terrible a job. Will be spending time "online" to see if I can reconfigure BCM functions or if I'll have to have a DEALER reset things. Short list of things still not working or now different Inner hatch lights and R reverse light still not working....NO code showing for it Lost pass side temp control Now has Daytime running lights ON.... did not have before EVIC in Spanish , infotainment in English When we "gave up" for today, there were a total of 6 BCM codes hanging on, All other functions were good. STAY TUNED for further developments! .....

WELLL???? NOT the TIPM. BUT I spent time working the NICE scanner my friend has while he was involved with other things. LOTS of BCM codes for loss of CAN connection and such and a PCM code that was P2533. I ended up clearing ALL and restarted the car and 2 codes came up immediately. P2533 and a Body code of B218311. Brought it back home and disconnected the ground again(to save the battery). Will go back over again tomorrow and re run for codes and my friend says he will have some time to work with me on it. OH and it did show a code for back up light out as circuit power shorted to ground before clearing codes. It did not come back like the other 2, but is still out along with the inner lights. STAY TUNED...I ain't giving up YET!

Are YOU doing the work or having a shop do it? Have you taken the driver door panel off and inspected the wires that run from the master switch THRU the door and into the body? Common for wires to break at the door hinge area from 12 years of use. as for A/C and control lights, that would be a separate issue, and possibly a bad control panel.

YUP, you're right that schematics and manuals would make this a LOT easier. I've left the dash alone for now as on Mon. morning before heading to my friend I got my son to actually help me check ALL lights. I've been working pretty much alone, and now I've got a pretty good clue as to what may be going on. Seems the both inner hatch tail lights and the pass side reverse lights are not getting power. And hatch harness is GOOD, I checked the "bend" area and even pulled the trim to check at the harness connections inside the car.. YES I've rechecked ALL fuses in both boxes and now am thinking that the TIPM may be the culprit. Other chores will make me wait a couple days for more work to be done on the DJ. At least when I get this car back to normal, I won't say that I'm new to the Journey anymore! I'm getting a real self learned education on this one!

Yeah, it got to the point that I didn't want to do this for a living anymore and went to a different trade(now "retired"). Always do as much as I can with what tools and equipment I have(or can get ahold of) for my own cars and certain family members. Without time pressures, I love the challenge of finding and fixing car problems. along with doing the NORMAL car maintenance. But with todays computerized cars, electrical problems are pretty tough!

OK the saga continues. I decided to leave my friend alone for the weekend (so that we might remain friends). Have spent hours searching and getting all kinds of complaints with FEW actual success postings.. Also went and tore into the center dash again and took out the battery and had it tested, It was good but only at 55% charge, understandable as it was not put on a charger, but it's back in and on a 2amp trickle charge with the neg unhooked from the body point. Now what I found were many complaints of radio not shutting off with door open and a number of them said head unit itself(4.3 screen).YUP with the radio left on mine does the same. UNFORTUNATELY I did not find any successful end postings. And some threads were from this forum and on other forums with members from here responding. I guess as a former "tech" that I was using too specific wording for searches. My game plan is to go see my friend on Monday and pull the complete 4.3 screen and lower control panel and the CD player box along with the BCM of the "twin". So as to recap symptoms our Journey has is that all things function normally until parking the car. It shuts down and then restarts the head unit and gage cluster. The push start button NEVER turns off and remains lit in the center and showing the OFF setting. Can any of our senior members here that are aware of this problem PLEASE post me some links to threads here, hopefully with what the FIX likely was?

Go0nna go pull the BCM and gage cluster from the "twin" tomorrow. and quite possibly the 4.3 screen and attending module. Dash is easy enough to work on to try, the BCM is in one heck of a spot in the A pillar behind the glove box!

Well it's not the push switch..... ;( Your 2nd part response does make some sense as I did repair drivers door broken wires for sensor unlock in the door handle at time of purchase. as it was giving message on dash to service key(?) Have not had any "messages appear since. ALL those systems seem to be working FINE. Also we would routinely leave fob in the cubby(on dash)at home with no problems before this happened. I'm still wondering "old school" about faulty latches that may not have the micro switches working properly in the latch assemblies.

WELL, that's one thought about the situation! SORRY, but that's not an option. Car is in too good of shape overall to let go less than a year after getting it being a Maryland (Southern car) that was brought up to our Northern rustbelt area. This is so far not costing me in $$for this problem and previous repairs have been dealt with quite fairly. Just my time and effort...which gives me something to do, AND learn about these new fangled highly computerized systems. Remember, I'm not the average car owner. I used to do this for a living, but retired about the time all this BCM controlled stuff came along!

After thinking about this as I drifted off to sleep last night....... I'm going back to "old school" diagnostic thinking. the car is 10 yrs. old and 185k miles. 2 items that are involved with this concern have switches that get a LOT of use/wear. First being the drivers door latch that has switches for lighting and door close, BUT those function. SECOND being the push start switch. I'd noticed that this lights up first closely followed by instrument cluster and then the 4.3" screen. THIS item has me strongly wondering about contact wear causing the problem. Just "throwing this out" for anyone following here and may have thoughts.......