5rebel9

Yes, my son does love the new to him ride and the wife and I very much like it also. My only "thing" is that it can't do all that my old 04 LWB T&C can do.....Otherwise this one would be MINE. I still watch for that "can do" everything and fuel frugal vehicle. Being that my son has limited income due to full time college, we have him pay his own fuel expenditures and maint as best he can afford(and then we help out), so that is part of why he's not taking it out so often as he did with the Neon!

I don't know exacts of the specs,but I would assume that compression ratio and exhaust restrictions to be the difference in HP ratings. BTW, Decent looking engine bay shot for a Mitsu! Note...I have a 2.5 V6 mitsu/Dodge 98 Avenger Coupe!

What trim level is this Journey? Are you sure you checked all proper fuses? Does anything else not function? And was this a sudden total failure or were things going awry over time? EDIT: How did you check the 40 amp maxi fuse? They are not the easiest to check, like the other blade style fuses.

I'm really not so sure that specs of lift/duration would be any different as the 2.4 is known as the "world motor" and used in many vehicles. I'm also on an Avenger forum and this topic comes up quite often. One member tried such and found no diff, and even talked with a cam regrinding business. Yes they could RE grind a cam for change at GREAT cost, and no guarantee what the VVT system would do with such a change. That member GAVE UP and left it alone on cams and even found the Evo X manifold that he adapted in even left certain drivability aspects wanting.

I'd start with checking for broken wires inside the rubber "boot" between the drivers door and the body of the car. Broken wires are easy to see and repair as they are color coded wires to "patch" back together.

That is all FINE, He just liked the 32+ mpg the Neon gave. I figured fuel to miles at 23mpg and we have a lot of big hills to go up and down. Just a bigger car/motor and AWD.....

11/08/20 UPDATE Well the Journey is as set for winter as I can make it. Finally got the TPMS sensor in the one wheel "squared away" and slow bead leak fixed on another tire. I did a complete cooling system flush with new T-stat,as the friend that brokered the deal only did a drain and refill. Also did a separate heater core back flush. Now the car will "cook you out" rather than being comfortable(but with cool pass side heat). Son is not driving much, as college classes are all "online" and friends are scattered out and fearful of COVID. He also complains that it drinks fuel compared to his former NEON. I told him he has to adjust driving "style" for a bigger, heavier,AWD vehicle! Don't get him wrong...he DOES LOVE the Journey. Going to try the all seasons it came with for this winter, and if too nasty of weather hits...he just does NOT need to be out with the car. He loaded the journey for the first time with his COMPLETE drum kit, and all just barely fit with the front pass seat still free for a "copilot"! Something he could barely fit a basic "kit" with his Neon after much time figuring for the last 5 years! Stay "tuned" for future postings on the journey of this 2011 AWD Journey!

I know that I should probably start a new thread about my son's "journey" with his Journey, but will bring this part to a close along with the latest pre winter maint. done. Finally got the tire monitor replaced a couple days ago,along with fixing a very slow rim bead leak on the LF wheel. TPMS is working fine now and no "leaky" tire. I also did a complete cooling system flush and separate heater core back flush, as we got our first snow and 32*f shot. Had low heat on pass. side front. Due to age, I also changed the T-Stat assy before refilling the system. WOW it now will "cook" you out rather than being comfortable! Any further updates will go into my own thread for his well liked ride!

Good luck to you, and I hope you find something just as capable as your DJ(but a bit more trouble free)!

Thanks for the further info, it helps complete the "picture" Yes these cars are particular about who builds these type parts, and going with OE or mfg. imprint on the originals is best. At the miles you posted, I'd tend to believe just a worn out part, and yes about replacing both. But keep in mind that there can be other causes for code setting that points to a sensor, and why I offered a few things in my response to you. GOOD LUCK, and please report back any outcomes to the challenge .

Come to think of this , this IS an 09 model and just know that it is somewhere in the EU market...Is the UK considered part of the EU, and didn't Dodge close out of the UK a few years ago? If so, then this could NOT be an official Dodge Dealer.

I know Diesels are the most common motors used in the EU/UK market, but in the NA market very few passenger vehicles are commonly equipped with the CRD. Wish I could be of more help, but I don't have much experience with these and being one of those vehicles with the controls on the wrong side of the vehicle!...LOL Everyone wants to be assured of dependable service when getting a vehicle, so I can't blame you for your last statement. Good Luck and please tell us how this ends up.

Air/fuel ratio imbalance ,,,probably running rich. How many miles on it and what maint has been done recently(spark plugs,coils) leaking (dirty) injectors and such. Did you clear codes and drive it or did the P0219a/b show right away? Check the map sensor connection and possible bad MAP sensor.

With following good directions, it is not hard to drop the bottom pan and change out the filter. Whatever you do, do NOT have the trans Flushed as many services claim to do to replace the oil. that has shown to be a killer for these transmissions. On refill there is a bolt to remove and then fill till fluid seep out that bolt hole. It's a bit "funky" for us oldtimers that have always had a dipstick to check fill level. I use Walmart brand ATF+4 for oil, it meets the requirements and is a lot less costly. Any auto parts store should have the filter cheaper than the dealers price.

What is a "small bit" of oil? How many miles on this '14 vehicle? A "seep" could be a leak from PCV system tubing or valve cover gaskets. Pumping large amounts when running is from the oil pressure end of things, as you went after the oil filter housing/cooler component right off. OR did you get a new filter cover and seal and not replace the whole unit ?

Howdy, and welcome onto the Forum here!

Not sure of the exterior underside location but try looking under the carpet between the gas pedal and the center on the dash/console. That's where the drain hose hooks up to the HVAC box on the older DJ's.

Sorry that such a big problem hit, and at a very poor time. Being pretty new here myself to the forum, I take it you've had some "issues" previously from looking up your profile. I also take it that this is a 2.4 FWD 2014 model? My sister has the same year and 2.4...nice car overall just says a bit underpowered for the many hill's in our area. SHE is envious of our '11 V6 AWD "mainstreet" after taking a ride in it. Good Luck with repair or replacement to your's

OUCH! Some big expenses to get this back up and running, that's the ECM(engine control module) and TIPM/fuse panel you've circled and both probably electrically burned out. No doubt that some electrical harnesses are damaged also. Good Luck on how you proceed, as this is more than a "shade tree mechanics" level work. Much less to figure out why this happened so it does not repeat itself.

That's some pretty fair miles on it. the 6 sp trans is kind of funky when it goes thru the gears, have you had the trans oil and FILTER replaced? As the trans drops in gears and just about at a stop and deciding to go into lowest gear can "hang" some, and this can cause an rpm fluctuation. Fresh trans oil and filter may help out on this. Our high mileage (179K miles)2011 will do slightly similar OCCASSIONALLY, but it is an AWD and I don't get to drive it enough to determine if it's from the same FWD portion of the trans or in the rear drive section. 1.2K miles ago it got a new solenoid pack and 2 trans oil and filter changes before we put it on the road. Trans problem was how we got the Journey so cheap....We're "all in" for $4k along with some other maint. work needed.

Welcome aboard the "board"! My, sounds like you got one of the top trim models. If you're like me being a long time Chry/Doge driver, I'm sure the Journey will NOT disappoint you...yes like all past brand models they do have "quirks". but so do ALL makes. Enjoy your new to you ride!

Well GOOD LUCK and keep us posted on any new info you can share. It is rather difficult to give precise "fixes" to such a long running problem...especially when the "pro's" have already had more than their share of "cracks at it" over the last year!

Well from your pictures A number of the things I've suggested ARE in those screens(and I didn.t look them up) . At this point I'd suggest clearing and hard resetting the computer(disconnect the neg cable for a good 1/2 hr) and then drive it and see what happens performance wise and for recurring CEL codes and post back with them. With the "white smoke" just starting to happen...I'm still thinking of the dreaded bad cylinder head problem of the early 3.6 motors. Engine cold it could be a crack that's open and as warms up seals itself. Problem is you post of both banks running rich. That many miles and a map sensor is not that expensive or hard to change, I'd change that and then do as suggested.

Also to consider doing besides a good alternator test would be to check for a power drain from some component left on(cell phone or such) and also that if equipped for proper audio and bluetooth (or whatever they call it) module shutdown when key is off. I've heard of those "fancy" gizmo's acting up and having a continuous power draw which can kill off a battery in a few days without being run. It's only been a couple days since you reported last that a new battery got things "cranking" again....you may not be quite "out of the woods" yet. As you should check to see why the last battery did not last very long IF it was a new one.

only at 3/4 tank of fuel and lower? There may be an EVAP component in play,BUT you post of no other codes that should show it. Also the "experienced Dodge people need to be reminded of going back to basic checks. AND is this an AWD or FWD? You could be having tank vent /EVAP problems with an AWD model with essentially a "split" tank from the prop shaft. Suggest you be more specific as to when and at how full the tank is when it acts up. Because my and the post by member 2late4you are speaking from opposite scenario's. Do you have a scanner with Live data capability to see what the engine computer fuel/spark/timing are running at? This is getting a bit confusing as you now say it goes away once driven a bit and only at a particular fuel tank fill level and going on for more than a year as you posted.