5rebel9

General misfire(P0300), BOTH banks rich(too much fuel not enough air P0172 and P0175). What engine, the 3.6? How many miles on the car? Check the MAP sensor A lot of things can be going on here, Including a possible intake manifold vacuum leak(upper or lower or both)

Darned rodents!! Your's is not the first case I've heard of this happening to various vehicles, seems that the SOY based insulation required by Gov't is enticing these rodents to do their harm more frequently than in the past. Sorry to hear of your expense to fix the problem. But thanks for updating and closure to the problem!

Unfortunately, this happens on all forums. I participate on 5 other forums and there is not much that can be done about non updated postings by "members". Best thing is a rapid response to these type posts WITH the encouragement for them to "keep all UPDATED". I try to not reply to long dormant posts, unless I have constructive info of the problem discussed to help bring "closure" to the subject.

Hope it turns out to be something minor for the vehicle for you. That motor does have a pretty good reputation from what I have read about it on other forums I participate on. Looking forward to updates from you!

Oh the "joys" of having all this "new fangled technology"! Without visually checking things like the camera and wiring(yes, these things still employ wires) You'll need the aid of an advanced scanner that most independent shops use along with Dealer level proprietary scanners to find the fault. YUP, dealers still charge up front and their rates are usually much more than a reputable "INDY". Have you any friends that might point you in that direction to at least find what the BCM computers see as the "malady"?

All I can offer is that the 2.0L CRD is a VW motor. What electricals to operate it is up to Daimler /Chrysler era folks.

9 DAYS?....YES get it back to the dealer with giving the same info you posted here. Hard to say anything constructive as the only real info you gave here is the YEAR of the vehicle and it's a Diesel model being in the EU market. A lot of members here on the forum are from the NA market with diesels being few in number if they were even marketed here. Good Luck to you and report back any progress for the benefit of ALL the members here!

Mechanical lash by shimmed buckets, I've not heard much of clearance concerns other than when doing a cylinder head rebuilding. Timing chains and camshaft removal needed in order to get at the "buckets. IMO if you're hearing rattling, I'd be thinking timing chain/guide wear instead. BUT other than year, no other info has been offered.

I don't have the 3.5 to say expressly. But, I've been a long time member of another forum devoted to the Dodge Avenger that uses the same motor and system in question. From what I gather from there, there are 3 main causes of the CEL problem that need to be properly diagnosed before just replacing the actuator. (1) remove actuator and electrical test for operation (2) check the linkage for bindining of the rod and flaps in the manifold runners(actuator removed). (3) check electrical connection(wire terminals inside the modular plug) of the engine harness to actuator, and wiring. Most common fault is oil residue from PCV system hardening from heat and binding the rod and flaps that the actuator is supposed to move. When it can't move the rod it will set this code you're getting. GOOD LUCK EDIT: As to flashing the computer...I don't think so. BUT clearing the codes and maybe a "reset" by disconnecting the Neg cable for approx 20-30 minutes should be all that's needed.

That had to be some failure! Yes I hit the point in my response to check for leak at the oil cooler(which uses radiator coolant) to be checked. Thanks for the "back up" and pic of a possible failure point for the OP. Sorry to have read your thread and what you went thru.

Agreed, IF it didn't make that noise before doing work one needs to go right back in(as much of a pain that it is) and RECHECK work done. From your post, I gather that below 3k rpm that is does miss and shake???? Something is DEFINITELY wrong if this is the case.

Yeah after my post, I looked for some you tubes on the subject and found the same and others...couldn't post back sooner due to HOME GAME(on TV) of my BUFFALO BILLS/ KC CHIEFS game. It's halftime now and was just checking back in here!!

Not familiar with your year as for any major changes from the 2011 AWD we recently bought. I take it you have the 3.6 motor? I do know that part location did not change for any year of the 3.6, no matter what body(200/Avenger/Charger/some jeeps) they were installed in. So if you can find it on another platform 3.6 motor, the process would be the same.

Sorry, but without going "online" searching for you I don't have those type specs handy. But from experience any model(200,Avenger,etc) that has the 2.4 in 2013 would be the SAME for motor specs, you don't need to look specifically for Journey. Sorry at this instant that I can't offer more direct response. EDIT: Found on Chrysler 200 forum of referenced clearances being the SAME for a 2012 model. BUT found lots of conflicting info as to them being flat tappet/bucket lifters or hydraulic (and therefore not needing such specs.) GOOD LUCK!

Sorry, but without going "online" searching for you I don't have those type specs handy. But from experience any model(200,Avenger,etc) that has the 2.4 in 2013 would be the SAME for motor specs, you don't need to look specifically for Journey. Sorry at this instant that I can't offer more direct response.

Sorry to hear of extra hands "bailing out" on you. Yup timing belt and the crank seal on that end does get rather involving, I hope the labor rates around you at shops are not too high. Good Luck!

It's been a month since this thread was started with NO response back from the OP. Stated NO code,NO turnover, NO sound. From his picture of the gear position, would lead me to think bad battery or cable connections(ground or positive). I've seen this a few times with Dodge family minivans.

Thanks for bringing this video here! yes the Journey is one of the easiest to change...as long as the glove box is not crammed full of stuff! One can spend more time emptying and replacing "junk" that doing the task itself.

Last posting was 1 year ago and not by the OP. One offering I can suggest as a newer member here is to check and make sure the gearshift is fully in park. Next step would be to get at the battery and make sure the cables to it are not loose. I've seen a number of times that "new" batteries posts are smaller in size than OE and don't let the terminal ends fully clamp on them. All it take is some kind of "jarring" and they will break connection, killing all power to the vehicle.

@cbeja I know you must be pretty "frazzled" with life and fighting a vehicle problem. But please respond with how things worked out and what was the problem and fix....for the benefit of the many fellow Journey owners here.

Like the above post's story...Check the engine oil level for overfull reading(coolant in the crankcase). IF OK then refill the res.and see if it drains away or leaks out somewhere. Take off the top motor "dress up" cover to look for leaks on top of the motor. Yes when overheated air doe get entrapped in the cooling system, let it set with cap off for at least 1/2 hr and recheck the res. level and top off accordingly. You STILL need to find out WHY it overheated and fix that, as I posted of the many possibilities of parts/components that can cause overheating. Good Luck!

Re read the post title...3.6 AWD model.

First thing to offer is some other places to check for possibly where the coolant went to find a possible cause of the overheating. Check the engine oil, both on the dipstick AND on the fill cap. You are looking for brown "milkshake" residues and high (overfull) dipstick reading. Next look inside the coolant reservoir and see if there is red oil in it. These will determine if a major problem in the engine or transmission has happened. You didn't state mileage of the vehicle, and so there are a number of reasons overheating can happen, from minor to major expenses, like a bad rad. cap or thermostat to engine oil cooler failure to blown head gasket or bad radiator. If you are not a DIY'er, Have it TOWED(by FLAT BED due to being an AWD vehicle) to a reputable repair shop for a good diagnosis and proceed from there. Good Luck.

So, NO CEL after the plugs but "idling rough"? If a bad coil you should still be getting a flashing or steady CEL when driving. I'd more believe a sticky fuel injector at those conditions. Try a can of SeaFoam fuel system cleaner in the gas tank, run it thru and see how it may change for the better as the cleaner works thru. NOTE...this is not an instant fix result. BUT if you are getting CEL again, get the codes read and posted here, many possibilities and without codes responses are GUESSING.

Short answer is yes the upper air intake has to come back off to do coils(or plugs for that matter). Idling "rough" can mean so many different things....Is the Check Engine Light(CEL) flashing when you drive the car or is it turning on while driving? These mean a problem and has set a code(s) in the car's computer, that need to be retrieved and posted in their alpha numeric format for members to be able to help you. Idling "rough" could also be poor spraying fuel injector(s). How many miles and what maint has been done other than the new plugs?