5rebel9

Being that I'm pretty new to this forum, I did look at your member profile info (before responding) and all it gave was YEAR, same as your posting sidebar info......... Same as my profile info showa, yet I know I entered that my '11 was an AWD 3.6 I didn't post to complain at you, just thought a quicker response to your request for info would help with that engine size info in it. Good Luck! EDIT: I just went in and edited my profile info to show motor and drive type....Easy fix for any that have the same situation. As can be seen now on my sidebar info...it now shows up.

Being that this is a new thread, you should have included that this is a 3.5 motor, otherwise members would have to track your other postings to figure out what you're looking for. Good Luck!

It's your ride and your call on how to proceed. A lot of disassembly of timing components to lift the heads off and HOPE you don't end up with a bad head. Good Luck!

Ouch, that's a bummer. At this point, I personally would look into a GOOD used motor. Either way would be a lot of work, but if you just do the "upper end" and even heads(you won't know until disassembly) that you're still "gambling". I didn't catch anywhere on the mileage of this vehicle. Good Luck in how you proceed.

True as you say. BUT if the car was in nice outward condition(rare for WNY rust gremlins), and the heartache of seeing damage done when being out spending hard earned money out "shopping"........ Hang in there and keep being optimistic of the situation!

Do you mean it was leaking out an overflow vent on the res? And yes, from what I understand of your update that there was still air in the cooling system. Also sounds like the rad fan motor may be on its way out. Another thing to consider about temp readings, is that multiple "boil overs" can damage the coolant temp sensor that sends readings to the dash...may not be entirely accurate. Hang in there and please keep us updated!

Sorry to read and see of this happening to your ride Yeah, I've been worried of the same type thing happening to my rides when going out shopping now that people are "out and about" more from lessening Covid restrictions. People around me are driving worse than before travel restrictions were put in place!

And my point of posting was lets find out WHY you feel the cats MAY be plugging up and fix that cause, BEFORE having to shell out that kind of money for parts that will go bad again if the cause is not found and fixed. Busting loose the catalyst substrate in the converters by "banging on them" will plug the exhaust piping and cause even more backpressure of exhaust gases back into the engine , thus definitely making the vehicle want to stall.

How about heat from the front vents? Did that come back?

Years ago?...whole diff technology now. Cats only "plug up" from 2 main causes. Overly rich running engine(poor mileage and operation and usually CEL) or excessive oil consumption(burns oil, not leaking out).

It would be very help[ful for members to try and assist you if the actual code number were posted. There are diagnostic steps to be taken for any code that appears to pinpoint the actual fault of what has set that code. If members don't know what that code or codes are, then any offerings will be nothing more than guessing. Also, an 09 with how many miles and what maint.(like spark plugs) has been done beyond the posted EGR valve. Yes the EGR is a rather finicky system on all FCA vehicles with the 3.5 motor, and a hanging open EGR can cause stalling out at idle when in gear.

Try reading the thread by member JGrimm's titled 3.6 overheating after oil cooler repair (on this forum topic page). Had temp and boil over concerns and no front heat... was tracked down to improper system air bleed and bad rad cap. You may want to follow the steps of "bleeding" he took to not risk damaging the plastic "bleeder screw". Yes, I got involved with that members thread also.....

Try a new radiator cap ! Yes, ot sounds like there have been some "issues" out of the normal seen "quirks" these motors have. Of all the things said done, there's been no mention of the cap and it is a known "quirk" with ALL 3.6 motored FCA model vehicles. As for no heat in front dash vents, yes blend door actuator OR a plugged heater core.... Also air entrapment in the cooling system can cause similar problems. Try a new cap and make sure to properly bleed air from the cooling system before "running down the road" with the car.

You may also want to put a new cap on the res. Other than that I fear cracked head or bad water pump. Cap is cheap and easy to try, the "boil over" thru there can wreck the cap.

I'm almost certain that only the 2.4 motor employs 2 thermostats. BUT all engine options are notorious for air entrapment that will cause problems if not "bled" properly out before "taking off" and driving the vehicle.

YES, well aware of the "age factor", having just recently gotten the vehicle and not speaking with the past owner (in Maryland) to know when the issue started leaves the question of just what caused the "failure". As the sensor does NOT go entirely dead, just goes from low reading to extremely high numbers and everywhere in between when driving the car. Who knows, there may have even been "fix a flat" used in the tire/wheel at some point that affected that sensor....tires look like new and why I posted as such previously. My friend is very busy right now and I'll have to wait a bit till he has the time to to the task. I still rue the day that I sold off my tire changer and balancer!!

Thanks for posting such an excellent diagnosis guide on the subject(both of your postings)! In my case the sensor does not drop out completely and correct readings happen when a good reading tire was moved to that RR location and crazy reader went to the formers position. I feel that perhaps the sensor in the rim of the offending wheel was damaged during a tire replacement or the "circuit board" in it is malfunctioning. I will report findings once I get it replaced. BUT your postings ARE of GREAT VALUE!

Nice color scheme on a good looking ride. I hope you have a long and happy ownership with it. The deep red of our '11 model is what "sealed the deal" for my son's ride, otherwise the wife and I are more partial to a Blue color like yours.

Just my perspective about how the TPMS works on the Journey as compared to other vehicles I have..... OK so the DJ may need a short time to SELF learn tire position, at least inflation is immediate as all cars. Our Pontiac G6 has to be TAUGHT wheel position after doing a tire rotation by means of a series of "steps" to get the BCM into "relearn" mode and following a certain procedure of lowering tire pressure on each wheel in a prescribed sequence that horn honks when each step has been successfully completed. Then one has to go back and refill air to proper pressure. It's not real hard to do, just time consuming. Of course the early TPMS on my T&C (04 model) does not specify position just pressure. If a warning goes off, then one has to manually check all position for pressure till you find the low one! On our DJ with a malfunctioning sensor, the fault is of little concern , What's more annoying is location of message and such having that shows up while driving!

With the low oil weight used in these motors today that is pretty common to see, and I wouldn't be worried about any engine problem from that. Yes you can change the filter, but also check for a small filter inside the air box where the equalization hose is. that needs replacement also from time to time. They used to be foam and later years went to a paper filter. On these really new cars today, they may have eliminated it altogether to save money. Enjoy your DJ!

Could not find an edit icon to further respond to the OP's situation. The top of the cyl. head valvetrain/ fill area is rather shallow on the 2.4 motor., but I'd rather think that pouring oil too fast would spill out thru the fill port.. A pic of said air filter and if this was clean or dirty oil would give better "clues" as to what did happen.

Nothing new to this "occurrence", I've seen this with many sized and make motors since the 60's! Yes a small amount on the corner of the AF where the PCV equalizing air hose is located on the housing assembly IS normal. And is from long term oil fume collection down that tube during cool down at shut off of the motor. NOW if the whole air filter is getting soaked with oil, YES Houston ...we have a problem ! And I've seen that too in the past with some engines.

I had told my 21 yr old son that I would make sure the Journey would initially be 100% and then he was responsible for future maint. costs I'm just going for the 1 wheel sensor. He still owes us 2 grand for the car to pay on monthly. I basically carried his Neon for 5 years while he "beat on it" regularly.

Yeah, I just wanted to be absolutely sure and not waste money on an unneeded part. and my friend just got restocked with new sensors yesterday(finally). So sometime in the next few days will be able to have him change out the sensor. Otherwise this is looking to be a great ride in the family...I'm beginning to get jealous driving my 200k+ 04 T&C! But I know the Journey can't pull the 3 face cord of firewood load that my T&C can.

Well, sorry but I won't be doing that.....Seems that I did not give enough time or proper speed to "relearn" position. Went out again and the RF (was RR) is now showing crazy. Must be a sensor, so will do that instead.