5rebel9

Thanks for the further info, it helps complete the "picture" Yes these cars are particular about who builds these type parts, and going with OE or mfg. imprint on the originals is best. At the miles you posted, I'd tend to believe just a worn out part, and yes about replacing both. But keep in mind that there can be other causes for code setting that points to a sensor, and why I offered a few things in my response to you. GOOD LUCK, and please report back any outcomes to the challenge .

Come to think of this , this IS an 09 model and just know that it is somewhere in the EU market...Is the UK considered part of the EU, and didn't Dodge close out of the UK a few years ago? If so, then this could NOT be an official Dodge Dealer.

I know Diesels are the most common motors used in the EU/UK market, but in the NA market very few passenger vehicles are commonly equipped with the CRD. Wish I could be of more help, but I don't have much experience with these and being one of those vehicles with the controls on the wrong side of the vehicle!...LOL Everyone wants to be assured of dependable service when getting a vehicle, so I can't blame you for your last statement. Good Luck and please tell us how this ends up.

Air/fuel ratio imbalance ,,,probably running rich. How many miles on it and what maint has been done recently(spark plugs,coils) leaking (dirty) injectors and such. Did you clear codes and drive it or did the P0219a/b show right away? Check the map sensor connection and possible bad MAP sensor.

With following good directions, it is not hard to drop the bottom pan and change out the filter. Whatever you do, do NOT have the trans Flushed as many services claim to do to replace the oil. that has shown to be a killer for these transmissions. On refill there is a bolt to remove and then fill till fluid seep out that bolt hole. It's a bit "funky" for us oldtimers that have always had a dipstick to check fill level. I use Walmart brand ATF+4 for oil, it meets the requirements and is a lot less costly. Any auto parts store should have the filter cheaper than the dealers price.

What is a "small bit" of oil? How many miles on this '14 vehicle? A "seep" could be a leak from PCV system tubing or valve cover gaskets. Pumping large amounts when running is from the oil pressure end of things, as you went after the oil filter housing/cooler component right off. OR did you get a new filter cover and seal and not replace the whole unit ?

Howdy, and welcome onto the Forum here!

Not sure of the exterior underside location but try looking under the carpet between the gas pedal and the center on the dash/console. That's where the drain hose hooks up to the HVAC box on the older DJ's.

Sorry that such a big problem hit, and at a very poor time. Being pretty new here myself to the forum, I take it you've had some "issues" previously from looking up your profile. I also take it that this is a 2.4 FWD 2014 model? My sister has the same year and 2.4...nice car overall just says a bit underpowered for the many hill's in our area. SHE is envious of our '11 V6 AWD "mainstreet" after taking a ride in it. Good Luck with repair or replacement to your's

OUCH! Some big expenses to get this back up and running, that's the ECM(engine control module) and TIPM/fuse panel you've circled and both probably electrically burned out. No doubt that some electrical harnesses are damaged also. Good Luck on how you proceed, as this is more than a "shade tree mechanics" level work. Much less to figure out why this happened so it does not repeat itself.

That's some pretty fair miles on it. the 6 sp trans is kind of funky when it goes thru the gears, have you had the trans oil and FILTER replaced? As the trans drops in gears and just about at a stop and deciding to go into lowest gear can "hang" some, and this can cause an rpm fluctuation. Fresh trans oil and filter may help out on this. Our high mileage (179K miles)2011 will do slightly similar OCCASSIONALLY, but it is an AWD and I don't get to drive it enough to determine if it's from the same FWD portion of the trans or in the rear drive section. 1.2K miles ago it got a new solenoid pack and 2 trans oil and filter changes before we put it on the road. Trans problem was how we got the Journey so cheap....We're "all in" for $4k along with some other maint. work needed.

Welcome aboard the "board"! My, sounds like you got one of the top trim models. If you're like me being a long time Chry/Doge driver, I'm sure the Journey will NOT disappoint you...yes like all past brand models they do have "quirks". but so do ALL makes. Enjoy your new to you ride!

Well GOOD LUCK and keep us posted on any new info you can share. It is rather difficult to give precise "fixes" to such a long running problem...especially when the "pro's" have already had more than their share of "cracks at it" over the last year!

Well from your pictures A number of the things I've suggested ARE in those screens(and I didn.t look them up) . At this point I'd suggest clearing and hard resetting the computer(disconnect the neg cable for a good 1/2 hr) and then drive it and see what happens performance wise and for recurring CEL codes and post back with them. With the "white smoke" just starting to happen...I'm still thinking of the dreaded bad cylinder head problem of the early 3.6 motors. Engine cold it could be a crack that's open and as warms up seals itself. Problem is you post of both banks running rich. That many miles and a map sensor is not that expensive or hard to change, I'd change that and then do as suggested.

Also to consider doing besides a good alternator test would be to check for a power drain from some component left on(cell phone or such) and also that if equipped for proper audio and bluetooth (or whatever they call it) module shutdown when key is off. I've heard of those "fancy" gizmo's acting up and having a continuous power draw which can kill off a battery in a few days without being run. It's only been a couple days since you reported last that a new battery got things "cranking" again....you may not be quite "out of the woods" yet. As you should check to see why the last battery did not last very long IF it was a new one.

only at 3/4 tank of fuel and lower? There may be an EVAP component in play,BUT you post of no other codes that should show it. Also the "experienced Dodge people need to be reminded of going back to basic checks. AND is this an AWD or FWD? You could be having tank vent /EVAP problems with an AWD model with essentially a "split" tank from the prop shaft. Suggest you be more specific as to when and at how full the tank is when it acts up. Because my and the post by member 2late4you are speaking from opposite scenario's. Do you have a scanner with Live data capability to see what the engine computer fuel/spark/timing are running at? This is getting a bit confusing as you now say it goes away once driven a bit and only at a particular fuel tank fill level and going on for more than a year as you posted.

General misfire(P0300), BOTH banks rich(too much fuel not enough air P0172 and P0175). What engine, the 3.6? How many miles on the car? Check the MAP sensor A lot of things can be going on here, Including a possible intake manifold vacuum leak(upper or lower or both)

Darned rodents!! Your's is not the first case I've heard of this happening to various vehicles, seems that the SOY based insulation required by Gov't is enticing these rodents to do their harm more frequently than in the past. Sorry to hear of your expense to fix the problem. But thanks for updating and closure to the problem!

Unfortunately, this happens on all forums. I participate on 5 other forums and there is not much that can be done about non updated postings by "members". Best thing is a rapid response to these type posts WITH the encouragement for them to "keep all UPDATED". I try to not reply to long dormant posts, unless I have constructive info of the problem discussed to help bring "closure" to the subject.

Hope it turns out to be something minor for the vehicle for you. That motor does have a pretty good reputation from what I have read about it on other forums I participate on. Looking forward to updates from you!

Oh the "joys" of having all this "new fangled technology"! Without visually checking things like the camera and wiring(yes, these things still employ wires) You'll need the aid of an advanced scanner that most independent shops use along with Dealer level proprietary scanners to find the fault. YUP, dealers still charge up front and their rates are usually much more than a reputable "INDY". Have you any friends that might point you in that direction to at least find what the BCM computers see as the "malady"?

All I can offer is that the 2.0L CRD is a VW motor. What electricals to operate it is up to Daimler /Chrysler era folks.

9 DAYS?....YES get it back to the dealer with giving the same info you posted here. Hard to say anything constructive as the only real info you gave here is the YEAR of the vehicle and it's a Diesel model being in the EU market. A lot of members here on the forum are from the NA market with diesels being few in number if they were even marketed here. Good Luck to you and report back any progress for the benefit of ALL the members here!

Mechanical lash by shimmed buckets, I've not heard much of clearance concerns other than when doing a cylinder head rebuilding. Timing chains and camshaft removal needed in order to get at the "buckets. IMO if you're hearing rattling, I'd be thinking timing chain/guide wear instead. BUT other than year, no other info has been offered.

I don't have the 3.5 to say expressly. But, I've been a long time member of another forum devoted to the Dodge Avenger that uses the same motor and system in question. From what I gather from there, there are 3 main causes of the CEL problem that need to be properly diagnosed before just replacing the actuator. (1) remove actuator and electrical test for operation (2) check the linkage for bindining of the rod and flaps in the manifold runners(actuator removed). (3) check electrical connection(wire terminals inside the modular plug) of the engine harness to actuator, and wiring. Most common fault is oil residue from PCV system hardening from heat and binding the rod and flaps that the actuator is supposed to move. When it can't move the rod it will set this code you're getting. GOOD LUCK EDIT: As to flashing the computer...I don't think so. BUT clearing the codes and maybe a "reset" by disconnecting the Neg cable for approx 20-30 minutes should be all that's needed.