5rebel9

Sorry, but without going "online" searching for you I don't have those type specs handy. But from experience any model(200,Avenger,etc) that has the 2.4 in 2013 would be the SAME for motor specs, you don't need to look specifically for Journey. Sorry at this instant that I can't offer more direct response. EDIT: Found on Chrysler 200 forum of referenced clearances being the SAME for a 2012 model. BUT found lots of conflicting info as to them being flat tappet/bucket lifters or hydraulic (and therefore not needing such specs.) GOOD LUCK!

Sorry, but without going "online" searching for you I don't have those type specs handy. But from experience any model(200,Avenger,etc) that has the 2.4 in 2013 would be the SAME for motor specs, you don't need to look specifically for Journey. Sorry at this instant that I can't offer more direct response.

Sorry to hear of extra hands "bailing out" on you. Yup timing belt and the crank seal on that end does get rather involving, I hope the labor rates around you at shops are not too high. Good Luck!

It's been a month since this thread was started with NO response back from the OP. Stated NO code,NO turnover, NO sound. From his picture of the gear position, would lead me to think bad battery or cable connections(ground or positive). I've seen this a few times with Dodge family minivans.

Thanks for bringing this video here! yes the Journey is one of the easiest to change...as long as the glove box is not crammed full of stuff! One can spend more time emptying and replacing "junk" that doing the task itself.

Last posting was 1 year ago and not by the OP. One offering I can suggest as a newer member here is to check and make sure the gearshift is fully in park. Next step would be to get at the battery and make sure the cables to it are not loose. I've seen a number of times that "new" batteries posts are smaller in size than OE and don't let the terminal ends fully clamp on them. All it take is some kind of "jarring" and they will break connection, killing all power to the vehicle.

@cbeja I know you must be pretty "frazzled" with life and fighting a vehicle problem. But please respond with how things worked out and what was the problem and fix....for the benefit of the many fellow Journey owners here.

Like the above post's story...Check the engine oil level for overfull reading(coolant in the crankcase). IF OK then refill the res.and see if it drains away or leaks out somewhere. Take off the top motor "dress up" cover to look for leaks on top of the motor. Yes when overheated air doe get entrapped in the cooling system, let it set with cap off for at least 1/2 hr and recheck the res. level and top off accordingly. You STILL need to find out WHY it overheated and fix that, as I posted of the many possibilities of parts/components that can cause overheating. Good Luck!

Re read the post title...3.6 AWD model.

First thing to offer is some other places to check for possibly where the coolant went to find a possible cause of the overheating. Check the engine oil, both on the dipstick AND on the fill cap. You are looking for brown "milkshake" residues and high (overfull) dipstick reading. Next look inside the coolant reservoir and see if there is red oil in it. These will determine if a major problem in the engine or transmission has happened. You didn't state mileage of the vehicle, and so there are a number of reasons overheating can happen, from minor to major expenses, like a bad rad. cap or thermostat to engine oil cooler failure to blown head gasket or bad radiator. If you are not a DIY'er, Have it TOWED(by FLAT BED due to being an AWD vehicle) to a reputable repair shop for a good diagnosis and proceed from there. Good Luck.

So, NO CEL after the plugs but "idling rough"? If a bad coil you should still be getting a flashing or steady CEL when driving. I'd more believe a sticky fuel injector at those conditions. Try a can of SeaFoam fuel system cleaner in the gas tank, run it thru and see how it may change for the better as the cleaner works thru. NOTE...this is not an instant fix result. BUT if you are getting CEL again, get the codes read and posted here, many possibilities and without codes responses are GUESSING.

Short answer is yes the upper air intake has to come back off to do coils(or plugs for that matter). Idling "rough" can mean so many different things....Is the Check Engine Light(CEL) flashing when you drive the car or is it turning on while driving? These mean a problem and has set a code(s) in the car's computer, that need to be retrieved and posted in their alpha numeric format for members to be able to help you. Idling "rough" could also be poor spraying fuel injector(s). How many miles and what maint has been done other than the new plugs?

Being that I'm pretty new to this forum, I did look at your member profile info (before responding) and all it gave was YEAR, same as your posting sidebar info......... Same as my profile info showa, yet I know I entered that my '11 was an AWD 3.6 I didn't post to complain at you, just thought a quicker response to your request for info would help with that engine size info in it. Good Luck! EDIT: I just went in and edited my profile info to show motor and drive type....Easy fix for any that have the same situation. As can be seen now on my sidebar info...it now shows up.

Being that this is a new thread, you should have included that this is a 3.5 motor, otherwise members would have to track your other postings to figure out what you're looking for. Good Luck!

It's your ride and your call on how to proceed. A lot of disassembly of timing components to lift the heads off and HOPE you don't end up with a bad head. Good Luck!

Ouch, that's a bummer. At this point, I personally would look into a GOOD used motor. Either way would be a lot of work, but if you just do the "upper end" and even heads(you won't know until disassembly) that you're still "gambling". I didn't catch anywhere on the mileage of this vehicle. Good Luck in how you proceed.

True as you say. BUT if the car was in nice outward condition(rare for WNY rust gremlins), and the heartache of seeing damage done when being out spending hard earned money out "shopping"........ Hang in there and keep being optimistic of the situation!

Do you mean it was leaking out an overflow vent on the res? And yes, from what I understand of your update that there was still air in the cooling system. Also sounds like the rad fan motor may be on its way out. Another thing to consider about temp readings, is that multiple "boil overs" can damage the coolant temp sensor that sends readings to the dash...may not be entirely accurate. Hang in there and please keep us updated!

Sorry to read and see of this happening to your ride Yeah, I've been worried of the same type thing happening to my rides when going out shopping now that people are "out and about" more from lessening Covid restrictions. People around me are driving worse than before travel restrictions were put in place!

And my point of posting was lets find out WHY you feel the cats MAY be plugging up and fix that cause, BEFORE having to shell out that kind of money for parts that will go bad again if the cause is not found and fixed. Busting loose the catalyst substrate in the converters by "banging on them" will plug the exhaust piping and cause even more backpressure of exhaust gases back into the engine , thus definitely making the vehicle want to stall.

How about heat from the front vents? Did that come back?

Years ago?...whole diff technology now. Cats only "plug up" from 2 main causes. Overly rich running engine(poor mileage and operation and usually CEL) or excessive oil consumption(burns oil, not leaking out).

It would be very help[ful for members to try and assist you if the actual code number were posted. There are diagnostic steps to be taken for any code that appears to pinpoint the actual fault of what has set that code. If members don't know what that code or codes are, then any offerings will be nothing more than guessing. Also, an 09 with how many miles and what maint.(like spark plugs) has been done beyond the posted EGR valve. Yes the EGR is a rather finicky system on all FCA vehicles with the 3.5 motor, and a hanging open EGR can cause stalling out at idle when in gear.

Try reading the thread by member JGrimm's titled 3.6 overheating after oil cooler repair (on this forum topic page). Had temp and boil over concerns and no front heat... was tracked down to improper system air bleed and bad rad cap. You may want to follow the steps of "bleeding" he took to not risk damaging the plastic "bleeder screw". Yes, I got involved with that members thread also.....

Try a new radiator cap ! Yes, ot sounds like there have been some "issues" out of the normal seen "quirks" these motors have. Of all the things said done, there's been no mention of the cap and it is a known "quirk" with ALL 3.6 motored FCA model vehicles. As for no heat in front dash vents, yes blend door actuator OR a plugged heater core.... Also air entrapment in the cooling system can cause similar problems. Try a new cap and make sure to properly bleed air from the cooling system before "running down the road" with the car.