5rebel9

WOW! Posting to a full year old last posting thread, should have made your own thread. Be it as it may, you said the battery is at least 5 years old. The cable connectors and battery posts probably have not been cleaned since it was installed....MISTAKE #1. Yes the battery is in a wicked hard spot to get at, WE DJ owners KNOW THAT. IF you can get it running, go to an auto parts store{even Walmart} and have the battery load tested to see how good or bad it is. A good battery and clean cable connections are CRITICAL with these cars. A dead battery will erase any codes that the computer in the car sees so yes waiting this long for action {preventive maint.} becomes problematic. For you it's time to spend some time and effort to NOT get "hosed" by some shop.

So, a '17 Journey but what size engine{each has their own "quirks"} and how many miles on it and what maint. has been done.

What brand sensor did you try? OE, Denso and NTK work best. Bosch is not well liked in these motors. How many miles on the car and what symptoms/codes made you decide for O2 sensors? You may have a bad cat converter or other fuel management troubles.

YES ! O2 sensors can get VERY TIGHT from all the heating/cooling cycles of engine operation. I've had to resort to 3' long 1/2" drive breaker bar for a few of the many I've changed thru the years. Make sure you use a quality O2 sensor socket, some designs are better than others.

It's been a VERY LONG TIME since I was located in coastal North Carolina serving in the Marine Corps to remember how I would set my A/C controls in that area. I've been just south of Buffalo,NY for the last 45 years and until recently did not even care if A/C was even functional. One of my 3 Journeys has auto temp and my Buick also{ A bit different in operation}, the other 2 journeys have manual set temp controls. But I've checked them each and found on straight DASH vent position, the recirc button WILL stay for the next start up there. I can't speak yet for other vent outlet positions. Yes each car make has a little twist of operation of systems that car and drivers need to learn of each other! Dodge has always been "different" than most other makes and "training the drivers is often required of our cars.....LOL Learn and ENJOY your newer Journey!

An '18, but not sure which engine. BUT that year uses R1234yf refrigerant, and is a bit more finicky a system than the earlier R134a systems. Autotemp controls may come into play on the recirc shutting off after long drive, due to cabin temp sensor reading desired set coldness OR to prevent icing of the evaporator in the HVAC box inside the dash. Idiosyncrasies of this new refrigerant are still being discovered and being learned of how to deal with them. Personally I don't use "recirc" for extended time of driving with any of my 4 R134a system autos. I use it to get cooler quicker and then switch to outside air draw. It would be nice to hear back from you on how your ride is working out since your last posting.

On other forums for Dodge vehicles that I have participated on with the same motor{ I suspected you had the Diesel}they have reported a check valve in the booster vacuum line going bad. This causes the sinking pedal due to vacuum sucking hard against the rear seal of the master cylinder, which gives the impression of a faulty master cylinder. We don't get the VW 2.0 motor here in the NA market, so I can't give you much more info. You may want to try a VW dealer or specialist shop, the brake boost system is probably the same. Good Luck to you and let us know how you end up fixing this problem.

Your info states EU for location. What Engine does yours have, as you have a few over there that we in NA don't get. Sinking pedal on holding applied could be a bad booster or check valve in the vacuum line to it. Sounds like otherwise you have been pretty thorough in your repair process.

Thanks for the documentation of pic's, But sorry you had the problem show up! Hopefully I don't jinx myself by saying that all 3 of mine have NOT had water leak troubles....just a lot of mechanical issues to deal with.

YES....Gotta love the kids! I would have gladly gone down and told him so last night and this morning. BUT, as he could not find a place to do the job, he bought a battery from Advance Auto and the Meadville train crew pitched in and supplied tools and hands and got the battery changed after work today. Says all is good and no warning lamps and CEL is off{had code for "low battery" according to autozone last night} . He got the battery there due to having an Advance Auto store a couple blocks away from his home here in NY IF anything should go amiss.

OH BOY! Got a phone call last night from my son about car problem with the '11. He is in MEADVILLE,Pa. for the week as engineer for the WNYPA railroad hub he works for {but based in Olean,NY}. He found out Sunday night of his temporary posting to Meadville. ANYWAY he got there and found out his 5 - 6 year old BATTERY is dying, very weak cranking but not enough to "fire up". There was no charging system warning light during his trip to Meadville. As we ALL know of the work involved to get at the batter, I'm giving him ideas of where to go or use his AAA to facilitate getting the car going. ALSO I'm anticipating the 3 hour drive to go "rescue" him with my jack and stands and tools. we can get a battery at any number of places down there. FUNNY that just a while ago, I had suggested he use one of his days off to get with me and check over the battery as it had been some time since we last were in there.

@John/Horace, Parking brake levers are working just fine on both the "big brake" '13 and '14 Journeys. I do think the '11 "small brake" rear calipers are more susceptible to that problem, but last summer I put reman calipers on it and told my son to USE THE PARKING BRAKE REGULARLY. My guy will do the tire sensor for $40. and I don't have to "fuss" with it. Just a matter of convenient TIME for BOTH of us.

The rains let up and just "misted", so went out and put it all back together. WORKING NICE ! Now for a nice HOT SHOWER to clean myself up.

WELLLL????? FEDEX delivered the rotors 15 minutes ago.....BUT the LIGHT rains predicted have turned out to be POURING rain, and I'm working outside! Got to wait for "Mother Nature" to finish SOBBING, that or take my bar of DIAL SOAP outside with me and kill two birds with one stone!

True to my word, I've got the rears all disassembled and cleaned and lubed with new rear pads, just waiting on FEDEX to deliver the new rotors to put it all back together again. Caliper pistons retracted very nicely with quality tool and not that stupid "universal cube". And only the lower passenger side pin was stuck, PB Blaster and persuasion with a pipe wrench turned the pin out with not too much trouble!

Howdy! I AM one person that did O2 sensors for cat efficiency code and IT WORKED for me. These sensors do have a suggested replacement time at 100k miles Did this on our '11 shortly after buying it with 190k miles on it. On our '14 with 188k miles, and a motor that has 130k miles, I get that code about every 3 months and put SEAFOAM into the fuel tank, clear the code and drive it. BUT am getting ready to replace both bank upstream sensors as they are the ones that actually do the work with fuel controls. The downstream ones just give a reference signal. Personally I would suggest replacing the sensors....yup you'll have to spend some money, but cheaper by far than jumping for converters and still having "old" sensors. Good Luck in how you decide to pursue things.

Well... I now have back a NICELY QUIET running DJ. Pipe was delivered Tuesday afternoon and installed Wednesday morning at the cost of a dozen doughnuts and $50.00 Getting to the connection of that pipe to the "Y" pipe on an AWD is NOT EASY. The car brought onto his hoist after mine was done was a FWD 3.6 DJ and there was a LOT MORE room to get to that fitting. Now to get rear rotors and pads done on it {I'm doing that job tomorrow} and EVENTUALLY getting the RF TPMS replaced.

Have you PHYSICALLY gotten back to the battery cable ends and made sure the terminals were tight to the battery posts yet? There has been a longstanding problem of posts and terminals NOT being of same size and although the nuts tighten down , the terminal is still loose on the post. This WILL cause electrical problems and should be the FIRST thing to do to diagnose your problem. YES I know it is a royal pain to do, as I have 3 DJ's in my "stable" to care for. Then check the wires on the starter solenoid for clean rust/corrosion free connection. ALSO when you replaced the battery before, did you clean the the terminal holes to get rid of any corrosion build up? Todays battery and cable ends DO NOT display the nasty cauliflower yuck of past times, They instead now form a hard "shellac buildup in the terminal holes.

YUP! There ARE times that I WISH we could move to a more FAVORABLE climate region....My dream is North Carolina, but WIFE won't leave NY. And other areas DO have their own drawbacks, so I guess I will just keep battling the "RUST GREMLINS" of the region!

Yes, I've bragged of having 3 DJ's in my stable to care for.....BUT The '11 with 245k miles still has original full exhaust system The '13 with 160k miles has it's original full system The newest year '14 with 188k miles had the flex pipe open up and gosh can it get loud! Ordered a Walker pipe from rockauto today at total cost{tax&shipping} for $153.US. Almost HALF the price local parts stores want, and a LOT LESS than DEALER PART! Not the easiest access to replace , so my friend has agreed to do the labor in his shop when the pipe arrives. STILL liking these cars all the same!!!!

Could be a bad starter motor or even a seized engine....you stated it SUDDENLY happened.Try getting a socket and breaker bar onto the crank pulley bolt and turn the crankshaft CLOCKWISE and see if it rotates . IF so, then starter or wiring to the starter is next step. EDIT: Also try in Neutral after being sure it is FULLY in the PARK position.

I had quite a while ago 3 different 3.8 engined '04 vans. There is an ignition module that the coils mount to{if I remember correctly}, and probably fried a circuit in it by leaving the wires off from the coils, and you're lucky it still runs at all with just a misfire on the ONE cylinder, normally ignition control goes totally away if that module goes bad. Good Luck, and yes you'll get better help on a Caravan/T&C forum than here.

VERY LITTLE available in "kit form" for performance parts for any of the 2.4/2.7/3.5/3.6 motors. Biggest "drop in" would be a 3.6 with A LOT of wiring. coolant hose, fuel line and pump changes needed along with computer change and reprogramming. BEST advice is to find a NICE 2011 or newer already equipped with the 3.6 motor, they are quit good for performance stock, and you'll save a lot more cash getting to that level and no DOWN TIME trying to redo a 4 banger to get more power.

YES... UGLY times for performance and looks back then. You will laugh at this..... eventually the 3rd row seat flooring rusted out, so my dad welded in a "manipulated" section of a scrap VW squareback {Type III} as a new floor! He had that T&C from '70 to '77

I'm pretty sure that year motorhome got a pass on having catalytic converters not so sure your Dad's 75 wagon got away without having them. My Dad had a '66 T&C wagon with the 4 barrel 440TNT and of course NO converter! That heavy beast would FLY! And he always was "grousing" that it only got 16mpg