5rebel9

I'm pretty sure that year motorhome got a pass on having catalytic converters not so sure your Dad's 75 wagon got away without having them. My Dad had a '66 T&C wagon with the 4 barrel 440TNT and of course NO converter! That heavy beast would FLY! And he always was "grousing" that it only got 16mpg

overall size and mass comparison..... that rig MAY just outdo that CADDY of yours! LOL

Well your posting made me feel confident to do the same on my son's '11 AWD, as I have not done a rear one yet. BUT I was at my friends shop with it Monday{due to heavy rains} and he had the correct side rear bearing "in stock" and had an hour's time of open hoist. So he replaced it for me in just 40 minutes! To get a better price, I would have had to wait 3 days to order in from rockauto and I did NOT have that timeframe of having the car. total cost ended up at $200. AND a dozen DOUGHNUTS! And I didn't have to get my hands dirty! BUT I did get my hands dirty on Wednesday replacing the Valve Cover gaskets that took me almost 6 hours in my driveway after the rains we got on Monday and Tuesday. The car was back to my son wed. after suppertime and I had the '14 back from him.

glad to help out and that you have corrected your "situation"!

YES , pull out the battery and charge it and then take just battery to a parts store or shop and have it tested. In todays cars with soo much electronics, a prolonged time period of NON USE shortens battery life. You said you inherited this car from your father and less than 50k miles......seems low for 9 years old. Real world on battery life is 4 - 5 years. There is a possibility that your LED headlight fiasco MAY have shorted something in the TIPM/fuse panel creating a draw {not necessarily a fuse}.

Thru ALL this posting, you DID NOT say if this car has the ORIGINAL 9YEAR OLD BATTERY or if at some point it has been replaced! 9 YEARS on a battery is a long time and even if kept charge, the cranking amps {NOT VOLTS} goes way down. AMPS are just as important as VOLYS. BUY A BATTERY IF IT STILL HAS THE ORIGINAL!

Since the 2011 models, lighting has been rather trouble free of problems you describe. I can only think of 3 possibilities {1} bad turn signal/multifunction switch {2} Fuse panel /TIPM under the hood {3} broken or "critter chewed" wires Good luck and keep us informed as to what is found and the fix needed, it will help other Journey owners.

With no background info to go from in your first post, I had to ask. My it seems you've had quite a bit of lighting troubles for such a newer vehicle. Water in a tail light before, are you in an area that gets a LOT of rainfall and possible flood damage? Do you have a trailer hitch and wiring on the vehicle?

Have you or maybe a previous owner converted lights to LED bulbs? VERY problematic in Dodges for flicker symptoms if that was done.

As I had posted, the wires inside that boot are a problem area on all cars, EVEN my "flagship" model for Buick {Lucerne} had broken wires for the drivers door window on it. Not much working room there, but the most likely place to start checking!

YUP they were even more highly "prized" than the Kubelwagen! and far fewer were made of the amphibious type. As a "youngster" cutting my "eye teeth" learning auto mechanics under my fathers tutelage {a factory trained VW technician in '58} , I would assist him with side jobs done at home until he opened his own shop specializing with VW vehicles. I was taught and learned the complete history of the VW line thru him AND my love of world history {particularly WWI thru to present}. I don't think the current "bean counters" that rule Dodge now would EVER consider entering into such a "niche" market. THANKS for sharing with this posting!

Welcome to the forum! But you should have made your own thread of your problem, less confusion that way. I would go back into the rubber boot between the door and body of the car and recheck for broken wires in there. As passive entry,locks and windows all run through there, and a common problem on all cars with power features, as the drivers door gets the vast majority of use thus flexing the wires inside that rubber boot. YES it's not the easiest place to get at!!!

I have DJ's with wheel mounted controls, not stalk mounted. BUT if the Check engine light is on, it is supposed disable the cruise control function. Might this be your cause????t

$17000. for a transmission????OR are there other things needed also? The 62te AWD transmissions are interchangeable, you just may feel different shift points/feel between the 1, which from such a short time of having the car, you would probably never know the difference.

It's been a long time since I've "played" around with the rad core support, but isn't there one that goes vertically possibly on the drivers side? I am going from my fading memory here.

Surprised you didn't figure it out. It is one of the bolts for the solid "inner bumper and plastic front frame piece to the left/right side unibody frame "horns.

Just looked up the clock spring on rock auto and only 2 mopar parts listed for differences. one for heated steering wheel and one without. for '14 -2020.

The tire arrived Monday at 11:30 am. all4 got installed today...wife will be HAPPY again to have HER ride back!

I have to retract some of what I posted. The "parts car" is a '17 crossroads model with big screen but NOT navigation{RB5 radio module} It does have factory backup camera AND backup/park assist sensors{which I'm interested in getting the camera and any needed wiring for our'13RT {with BU/park assist sensors} I'm also thinking of going after bluetooth/phone module and needed inside mirror, as it contains the mic's for phone and needed wiring. Also the auto headlight switch and light sensor to put into our '14SXT. AND then there is a "brand new" trailer hitch and the wiring/adapter that would go onto either the '14 OR my son's '11 NONE of this {other than the hitch} is easy work with a LOT of interior trim and headliner disassembly and wiring to install. Also I need to do some parts compatibility searching for the mentioned clock spring issue, the steering wheels control pad will be a whole steering wheel swap. THIS IS A MAJOR INVOLVED DOING, but nice upgrades for value and my friend says I will not have ANY PROBLEM WITH PRICE, He got the car for the powertrain! Yes I have to do the removing of parts, at least i don't have to put things back together!!!! I also have the alphaobd program to update the BCM if any thing done needs that. I have a spare car to put any one down for needed time to do the work, the wife just won't be happy to be without her 13RT @lost17 You may want to consider what a complete aftermarket screen/piggyback audio system might do for your wants. There have been a few well explained threads here recently on doing this to gain certain "features".

The "picture" is much clearer now, thanks for clarifying the symptoms. Need some time to search this one out to reply further. Is the red dot anti theft warning light on or flashing when you try and start it? Any interior power {lights , radio} working? Which engine size and is your A/C R134a or the NEW STUFF?

I was going to say cranks over on starter but no engine run....did you run it out of gas???? Never heard of the gas pedal being suddenly hard to depress. But the BRAKE pedal can show that symptom.

I am NO electronics' lover when it comes to Bluetooth and phones. For navigation , on older years the radio unit of the correct type{RB5} contains the navigation. I'm not sure being yours is a '17 model if they employ a radio code to unlock for your year, it's 'plug and play" for older years like mine. In fact I found out today my friend got a body wrecked DJ for parts and has the Nav. radio unit and Bluetooth module. I'm getting the nav. radio as we're not certain wiring harness is there to put in the bluetooth module. Yours may not have needed harnesses either {pre installed} and would be a big job to do if car needs to be "in use" and can't be "down" for a day or two. And you'd still need the steering wheel controls and probable clockspring and correct wiring for it. A LOT OF INVESTIGATING NEEDS TO BE DONE before taking things apart.

Hey @2late4u Ya gotta "rub it in" . It takes a special PRIDE in one's abilities to overcome the effects of weathers doings in maintaining our rides. At least I don't have to worry much about Hurricanes. tornadoes or large hailstorms.

Nice photography of this "job" Only our '11 needed a rear bearing so far, and it was done by my friend as he already had the car for some other work being done. I've done FRONT bearings on all 3 and just a few more "things" in the way to deal with for the rear units. Nice work there, and OHH you seem to have a nice GARAGE to work in! BTW: I love the saying at the bottom of your posting!

First of all, Is your new to you equipped with phone/ bluetooth control pad on the left side of the steering wheel? IF NOT then the components are not in the car that would give you those features and are quite PRICEY to buy and install. Of the 3 older year DJ's{'11, '13, '14} in my stable, only 1 is equipped with bluetooth/phone and no navigation.