5rebel9

Yes it is. I do a lot of business with him and also buy my firewood thru him, I also make parts runs and assist in repair diagnostics with him when real odd problem cars come to him. Right now we're working together to determine best diagnostic scan tool and program capabilities for 2017 and newer cars that he will have to upgrade to. He also wants to be able to program replacement fobs for these newer year vehicles{Stellantis group}, as security protocols have changed dramatically in newer cars..... thanks to the Hyundai/Kia hacking fiasco a while back. Old saying....One hand washes the other

Would be nice to know what engine size, but I will ASSUME the 2.4 4 cylinder motor. And YES a bad head gasket improperly diagnosed as thermostat will make replacement thermostats go bad also. Sorry for your major repair expense, as head gasket AND possible warped head is a very costly repair bill. You might want to think about a good used motor to be installed verses repairing the one you have.

WELL.... Not ready today and says the RF also needs the ball joint replaced. Cam and rockers done, but have to do the filter unit and install the intakes. Waiting for him to call me back as when I called enquiring, said it'd been a bad day with lots of interruptions. I will report results when the car is done and back home.

May I suggest that you look up your rotors and pads on rockauto.com, they are very reliable and have very good prices. You will go nuts about OE dealer parts and prices.

17" for winter treads was my plan for later this year, but we both like the ride of the 19's in good weather, 17's of our other 2 DJ's seem "floaty" in curves. We didn't get many days of snowy / poor roads this year, so "managed" thru on low tread depth tires. At this point, we can't afford getting 17" rims and tires, almost less expensive to get new 19" tires.

The wife's '13 finally came due for oil change, so I did that on Monday of the solar eclipse day. PROBLEMS right away. {1} Had to use a breaker bar with long handle to get the filter cap loose {2} STUPID DESIGN early oil bypass valve was NOT there, no parts at all. I did the oil and filter anyway and contacted my friend about getting another one, but had to call him back a bit later, as I found a noticeable oil leak in the engine valley at the cooler assy. NOT gushing, but would not drive it other than getting it to my fiends shop, to replace the whole unit with an aluminum assy.. {3} On the way there I heard a howling coming from the RF, YUP wheel bearing. {4} I knew I needed to do Valve cover gaskets and have had them ready since summer, so it was agreed that for the paltry cost of $500., He would do the wheel bearing {moog},oil filter/cooler assy., and VC gaskets. GOOD DEAL....YES....BUT On getting the intakes and covers off, he found on the firewall bank that the Intake cam had a lobe that was badly scored on one valve lobe and rocker shot. EASY fix IF it was on the front bank, but the rear needs to have motor mounts loosened and shift motor a bit to clear sprocket bolt removal. MORE WORK. We decided on using a good used cam and new rockers for the rear bank. NO price yet for this additional work, but since we got this car 10 months ago thru him, he's keeping labor costs at a minimum and I cover parts, as one could tell by the price for the original work that was to be done. Car is hopefully to be done this afternoon. My wife is back to driving her old {now mine} '14sxt. What a way to start SPRING! And I had been planning finances to get the '13 a new set of 19" tires........... Those with that size know they are NOT cheap!

17" rims WILL fit, BUT the TIRE SIZE WILL NOT, as per your response to member @Sam l

Great to hear all is well again, but YES a pretty hefty hit to the bank account all the same. And yes, having capable friends or trusted shop other than DEALERS can help greatly on costs. Also can't rule out part of costs due to the WONDERFUL ECONOMY we ALL are currently dealing with.

You gave very little background info as to why you replaced those sensor. For that vintage they should be "plug and play", did you have CEL and just what P forat codes did you have? After your work, do you still have CEL and if so what are the codes? There is more involved to codes diagnosis beside just changing sensors.

Without a scanner, the only way to erase and put computer into a relearn by driving mode is to disconnect the battery for a period of some time{folks offer varying amount} of 10 to 15 minutes. BUT, a 3.5 timing belt motor with an interference fit design...has the TIMING BELT ever been replaced? Your codes COULD be from a stretched or jumped tooth timing belt. Factory recommends 7yr 90k mile replacement, that most folks DON'T DO and pay the price later when the belt jumps time or BREAKS.

What ones quit high or low beams/ all four? Does the car have automatic headlights? Any recent work on the front end or swapped in LED bulbs? I've got 3 DJ's and only had a singular low beam bulb quit and it was the bulb.

The original poster of this 7 year old thread shows pic of his Journey being a flex fuel vehicle. That means YES he can run the higher ETHANOL BLEND E85 or regular gas. It is however stated in the owners book to run primarily one or the other and not mix fuel fill ups with more than 1/4 tank of either remaining "in the tank" fuel. YES it's been well documented that the 89 octane does seem to work better in the 3.5 motors when using regular gas and not E85. AND WELCOME to the forum!

I have a 2011 that the drivers door passive{touch the handle} did not work and had an EVIC message to service keyless entry system. It was broken wires in the door handle. A common problem as the wires were too short for constant flexing for this year. I took the handle off and apart and repaired/lengthened the wires and all has been fine for more than 4 years. You state a fender bender, was that door damaged by the accident? lots of wires run thru the door and jamb in the rubber boot between door and body, quite possible a wire for passive entry was damaged/cut. NO WAY to tell you exactly what is your fault sight unseen. Keep on the folks that did the repair and your Ins. Co. to get to the bottom of the problem and get it fixed, GOOD LUCK and PLEASE report back what transpires.

Yes @John/Horace, but as the OP said STARTING to leak. And as I posted, it would be nice if we knew just where. Mine was leaking TRANS. oil, not the PTO gear lube. Such are the joys of responding to vague postings.

My son in law had a Fusion and wanted no part in changing the battery on it. I went up in the early Spring and changed it for him. That one was not bad at all to do in my experiences of countless battery changes during my "career" as an auto tech.2 months later, his parents gifted him a newer Focus sedan and used his Fusion as trade in for their new vehicle purchase. My daughter laughs as her "in laws" are FORD people, and knows I prefer my MOPARS. AND also that I NEVER buy "brand new" cars while in-laws buy new and sometimes as often as yearly!

Nice job! Other than removing running boards {mine don't have them}, I did the same work late last summer in my DRIVEWAY on low jack stands on 2 of our 3 Journeys! One of them also got Valve cover gaskets and seals replaced too, and the other also got rear struts changed! Everything would have been much easier if I had a HOIST to make things easier!......LOL

Would be nice to know just where on the PTU it's starting to leak. My '14 developed a leak where it mounts to the transmission. BUT this was due to the O ring seal being damaged when the trans was removed for torque converter replacement. IF your car's leak is from the seal for the passenger side axle shaft, that is much more easily replaced to fix the leak, and much less costly. ALSO this sounds like a time to seek a second opinion from a trusted shop.

OK, so now I'm ENVIOUS! No wonder WHY you preferred to bring it to your home to do the work Indoors AND a hoist!!!!!! Makes life {work} SO MUCH EASIER!

OK, so you did do as member Rean H posted by removing the FOB battery from the main use key fob and the car still has the problem? Well, now it gets a bit complicated to track down the cause. Yes there could be a problem stemming from the TIPM/fuse panel, but ground wire connections {not just the car battery negative cables} may also be involved. MY suggestion is to have a complete system scan done that checks EVERYTHING of the can bus electronic systems and find out if the computers in the car have recorded any system faults. These codes are very specific to pinpointing source of trouble and will save a lot of frustration and money of not shooting the parts cannon at the car.Also note the can bus electronics will NOT turn on the check engine light if they have recorded trouble codes. The CEL only comes on for engine/trans. faults. These cars are NOT built and "wired" like cars of the 60-70's era!

Have YOU actually had YOUR vehicle scanned? YES OR NO I have an automotive background and assist my Independent repair shop owner on tough diagnostics {I'm not always right, but we manage to find the problem somehow together}. Also knowing how the systems work, I've only experienced this particular lights happening as they are designed to do when the car senses lost traction or stability in nasty snowy weather. YES there COULD be a problem stemming from a bad TIPM/FUSE PANEL....but there are many possible causes to this situation, there is NO SINGULAR "here's your fix answer unless you want to start shooting the parts cannon. PROPER vehicle diagnostics go a long way and a full scan will shorten the "journey" to a fix. Unfortunately on any owner based forum, many problems are posted, but a lot do not come back and say definitely what the fix was or involved.

YES, the TIPM/FUSE PANEL unit MAY be the problem, but I'm still trying to figure out if it is just the main key fob he uses or both. IF just the one, it would be a bad fob circuit board.

LOL My daughter has one of those AND it needed a battery last fall. My son in law watched similar videos and "tackled" the job himself, He did a good job of it with only the "fail" of not properly aligning the wiper arms when finishing up. The wife and I visited the next day and I took care of that little glitch for them! HE said he would PAY PEP BOYS {franchise auto center} to change it next time, should they still have the car!

EARLY morning typing miscues'''' Should have been typed to read try using your spare key fob and see if all works correctly or not. IF it works correctly, then the circuit board in your primary use key fob is bad and that key fob will need to be replaced.

Doing it again with WHICH key fob? The main or the spare? Your main key fob may have a bad circuit board and that key fob MAY need to be replaced. Try keeping it away from the car and see if the same happens with the same or not. After all the fob portions are 15 years old now. You have a first gen Journey, there MAY be a fuse for door locks, but with the wiring layout of computerized cars the alarm and such can not be disabled, so your wish to eliminate that is just that A WISH.

I've stated twice what needs to be done about scanning for codes. You do NOT need to go to a dealer for this as the cost is prohibitive. I have a scanner that will do such and have available to ME even higher level scan tools thru a friend who runs an Independent repair shop. I normally do not recommend using DEALERS or FRANCHISE repair centers as they charge way too much.Find yourself a GOOD Independent shop from family, friends or coworkers. to have them scan for codes to determine what is going on. THERE IS NO OTHER WAY AROUND IT.